Messages

1

Member Profiles / YetiX

« on: August 31, 2010, 06:02:33 PM »

I've got a few of the bulbs, I think. Let me look. Not that they're expensive, but they're just taking up space in a drawer over here for me...

2

Member Profiles / YetiX

« on: August 30, 2010, 11:59:51 PM »

I found out last night that when I turn on the fog lights the light on the switch does not turn on.  Is it supposed to?  What am I missing? :confused:

There's no light in/on the foglight switch. The light is in the cluster!

3

Member Profiles / YetiX

« on: July 26, 2010, 11:03:42 PM »

Damn Scott, car looks great. I want to take her for a spin when I get back in town. Sorry I didn't have a chance to get you the E36 M3 e-brake handle and boot before I took off. I'll be back from Europe on 8/8...

4

Member Profiles / YetiX

« on: July 20, 2010, 10:14:10 PM »

The u-joint was shot so I got a re-built one.

Very cool. Sounds like you're taking good care of her man. I will try to drop off that e-brake boot and handle soon.

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Member Profiles / YetiX

« on: July 20, 2010, 04:42:53 PM »

Did you actually put a new driveshaft in? I thought you were just putting a new center support bearing on the existing driveshaft?

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Member Profiles / YetiX

« on: July 19, 2010, 08:54:55 PM »

Did Neil check out the balljoints for you? Are they OK?

How were the front shocks?

7

Engine + Driveline / CRAP. Didn't Properly Seat Coolant Pipe...

« on: January 28, 2010, 06:57:24 PM »

An known issue with the coolant pipe is that unless you get the BMW brand it seats differently. I did use an aftermarket one and new oring and just had to make sure it went in. Not sure which one you have and hopefully it is the oring. It will work, just need to make sure it goes flush with block.

Yep, I used all OE BMW parts for this job.

I got back from the dealership with the new O-Ring a bit ago, reinstalled everything, and now she's running like a champ. Just have to swap in a known good idle control valve and she'll be as good as new.

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Engine + Driveline / CRAP. Didn't Properly Seat Coolant Pipe...

« on: January 28, 2010, 05:43:55 PM »

I did some minor disassembly and figured it out; The o-ring hadn't seated properly and was bulging out the bottom of the connection. I was able to get access to the pipe and remove it by taking the airbox out as well as the wire harness carrier that bolts to the manifold.

Off to the dealership for another o-ring.

9

Engine + Driveline / CRAP. Didn't Properly Seat Coolant Pipe...

« on: January 28, 2010, 05:25:45 PM »

Over the past week and a half I've been replacing the entire nest of crappy throttle body coolant system hoses.

I also replaced the plastic coolant pipe that stubs out of the block:

http://12.153.160.115/images/catalog/full/11531714738A.jpg

I just went to bleed the system, and sure enough I didn't seat that plastic pipe into the block properly...

I *really* don't want to take the intake manifold(s) back off to re-seat the thing.

Does anyone have any tips on how to get it properly seated? I was very careful to pick out the bits of old pipe that were stuck in the block (and the old o-ring), so I know the connection was clean...I just couldn't get it to seat I guess.

Any tips? Suggestions?

What a pisser.

10

How-To's / Deleting throttle body heater plate.

« on: February 04, 2009, 04:09:34 PM »

i used about 4 inches of 1/2" insulated heater hose(make sure its for high heat i melted one heated hose)...it's a bit hard to get it on the lower part, just put as bit of motor oil on your pinkey finger, and it should slide on down onto it, just with a little effort....then plug the other end on to the head.


so again,
about 1 foot (its sold by the foot here, so just cut it to like 4 inches or so) of the 1/2" insulated heater hose.

and 2 metal hose clamps

thats all.





oh and..dont forget to tighten everything down properly, and to bleed the system of any air when your done...or you'll be on red about 1/2 mile down the road.

Cool. So, 1/2" high temp heater hose.

As far as all the OEM parts, have you ever seen a list of part numbers that someone would need to order in order to complete the hose refresh/TB plate delete/etc?

11

How-To's / Deleting throttle body heater plate.

« on: February 03, 2009, 05:37:08 PM »

Has anyone made a definitive part number list of stuff we'll need for the delete? I've looked through this and the "Mess under the intake" thread, but haven't seen an actual list.

I'm not clear on what size the coolant hose you guys are using for the do-it-yourself bends is...

12

General Topics / Does Anyone Make A Brake Master Cylinder Rebuild Kit?

« on: February 01, 2009, 12:04:31 PM »

Why would you want to try to rebuild a master cylinder when you can buy a new 25mm for $170
http://store.bimmerworld.com/shared/StoreFront/default.asp?CS=bimmerworl&StoreType=BtoC&Count1=196758449&Count2=113898873&ProductID=47&Target=products.asp

Because I have other cars that I modify. This one won't be mine forever, and I don't want to modify it and confuse the next owner...

13

General Topics / Does Anyone Make A Brake Master Cylinder Rebuild Kit?

« on: January 31, 2009, 02:24:19 PM »

I actually just got off the phone with NAPA. A rebuilt Girling (rebuilt by Cardone) is $158. I'm going to stop by there this afternoon and order one.

14

General Topics / Does Anyone Make A Brake Master Cylinder Rebuild Kit?

« on: January 31, 2009, 02:20:35 PM »

...So you're basing the value of the part on the metal it's cast from?

In the car world, that's not exactly a smart way to live your life.

15

General Topics / Does Anyone Make A Brake Master Cylinder Rebuild Kit?

« on: January 31, 2009, 01:59:50 PM »

junk yards are your friend.

you can rob all kinds of shit off of m20's and m10's or hell, you might get lucky with a m42

Thanks, I know all about junkyards.

I have no desire to put a used, un-rebuilt brake master cylinder on my car.