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Messages - applecran

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1
We had a similar issue yesterday with a 91 318is.

Fuel pump died (whirring and whining and car eventually would not start).  Swapped a new pump in - car won't start, cranks, but no start.  Fond this thread which helped immensely.

the pump would not come on, even when starting the car.  There was voltage at the pump connection when cranking though.  We though maybe we got a bad pump.  Pulled it and checked the wires just to be sure.

We swapped all relays from another car that was running, no luck.

We ohmed the crank/cam shaft sensor.  Crank was 525 (same as our running car) and cam was 1000 (about 200 to low).

Next I jumpered the fuel pump relay and immediately heard the pump fire up, and could here fuel coming into the rail.

Went to start the car, and it started, but ran really rough.

I think the bit of fuel from jumpering the pump got it started, but not sure.

Now I swapped the cam shaft sensor, and it started up and smoothed out.  Swapped in a new o2 after that and took her out.  Runs great and idles great.  Hopefully we got it all figured out.

Good luck to anyone else that finds this thread (it should be stickied, really great explanation of how the entire startup works).

Thanks!

2
Engine management / Adjust idle?
« on: April 26, 2008, 01:22:33 AM »
thanks Justin.  I'm planning on doing a cop conversion at some date.  I'll do an ohm test on the wires for now, and if they need replacing will look for some out of an e30.

I did a pedal code test tonight (i've used my peake on the car before and no codes) and i get:

1262 Idle Speed Actuator

"There is a break or short circuit in the wiring to the idle
actuator or the wire from the DME is defective or the output
stage in the of the DME is damaged. This code will also be
stored if the engine stalls at over 600 rpm."

Now, I've tried to ICVs with no difference in results.  One was mine, one is from a Buddies car that idles fine.

I guess it is possible they are both bad, but I since the other car idles fine, I doubt it.  From the description above it seems it could be a wiring or ECU issue.  Can anyone confirm that or provide more details on how to track something like that down?

3
Engine management / Adjust idle?
« on: April 25, 2008, 05:40:30 PM »
Interesting.

I'm just running some seafoam through the gas tank since this morning.  I'll see if that helps.

I'll probably also do seafoam through the intake and an O2 sensor (might aswell, don't know how old the current one is).

I'd just like to figure it out.  

What I'm wondering is if I can do any tests on the spark wires etc to make sure they are functioning properly.

4
Ok, so the cable is original.  Hard to tell how stretched it is as I have no reference.  So where does one start?

5
I'm also interested in this.  ine seems to have extra slack.  How do you adjust this?  How much slack is normal?

6
Engine management / Adjust idle?
« on: April 25, 2008, 11:24:25 AM »
Quote from: batsbats;47860
oxygen sensor?


Yeah I thought about that.  Just was not sure if the O2s would cause idle issue like that.

Thanks

7
Engine management / Adjust idle?
« on: April 25, 2008, 10:12:55 AM »
I should mentione,  I've also checked for vacumme leaks using throttle body cleaner... none located, I checked all hoses, throttle bodya nd intake.

8
Engine management / Adjust idle?
« on: April 25, 2008, 01:10:44 AM »
Thanks BrandC.

I actually already replaced all the vaccume lines,and cleaned the ICV with WD-40 - I also tried another ICV that is kown to be good.

The parts listed in my post were all changed already for maintenance (the car was not really cared for by the last owner).

9
Engine management / Adjust idle?
« on: April 25, 2008, 12:27:17 AM »
Mods,  I meant to post this in Engine + Driveline.  Can we move it there?  Thanks

10
Engine management / Adjust idle?
« on: April 25, 2008, 12:24:24 AM »
I've had my 91 e30 318is for about a month now.

I have a slightly rough idle, it does not really fluctuate speed, sits around 800 usually, with a bit of a hickup every little bit.

If i'm at a light or stopped for a few minutes, the idle will slowly drop to about 600-650.

Sometimes (not very often) the idle will actually drop close to 500 and the engine acts as if it is on the verge of almost stalling.  This only seems to happen when I start moving from a light say, and then stop pretty much right away due to traffic, and it is rare but it is the most concerning of the symptoms to me.  I don't want the car doing this when my wife is driving it a she won't know to just give it a bit of gas to get it back to normal.

if I apply the throttle and hold the idle around 1000-1200, it all seems fine, maybe the occasional blip.

It runs great other than that, full rev range, power band seems fine.

There seems to be a slight hesitation if you tap the throttle while idling.

I've done the following, mostly out of routine maintenance I knew the car needed when i got it.  A lot of these things helped a little, at least they seemed to, but it could just be placebo.

All vaccume and air hoses
Many water hoses
water pump
thermostat
temp sensor
coolant
spark plugs
timing chain tensioner
oil and filter
clean icv
tested with known good icv
air filter
fuel filter
Upper and lower intake gaskets
cleaned intake
throttle body gaskets
valve cover gaskets
upper timing cover gaskets
lower oil pan gasket
used my peake reader to check for codes

Next to try is injector cleaner

I have some seafoam, but I'm not sure what to do with it really.  Was going to use it in the crank case, but maybe I can use it elsewhere here.

I also cleaned the engine qutie a bit, removed gunk from the two censors at the front of the engine that had built up.

I'm not sure what to test next.  

Things I've considered doing but i'm not sure exactly how or if they relate to my problem or no:
Adjust the idle - is this possible?
Test Spark plug wires
Test coils
Check Cam timing?
Check throttle cable adjustment

I've also noticed I have an aftermarket exhaust and Cat, not sure if this could cause anything.

Any advice on what to check and how to test some of the above things would be much appreciated.

Thanks

11
Engine + Driveline / Changing Coolant Temp sensor
« on: April 10, 2008, 12:37:29 AM »
Thanks guys for the help, this was really easy.

For anyone else who stumbles upon this thread.

You need:

19mm deep socket
extension
universal joint

That is it.  Not sure how I could not figure this out on my own, althought it was almost 1am when I tried.

12
Engine + Driveline / Changing Coolant Temp sensor
« on: April 08, 2008, 09:49:50 AM »
Thanks guys.  I have some deep sockets, I'll try that.

13
Engine + Driveline / Changing Coolant Temp sensor
« on: April 08, 2008, 01:37:53 AM »
thanks I'll try the liquid wrench.  

My problem is I can't seem to get a rench or blyers on the metal part, only the pastic part of the sensor, and I don't want to break it in there...

14
Engine + Driveline / Changing Coolant Temp sensor
« on: April 03, 2008, 06:04:51 PM »
Hey guys,

This may be a stupid question, but i'm having a bitch of a time getting the coolant temp sensor out.  Please tell me I can do this without removing the intake.

Any tips?

Thanks.

15
Engine + Driveline / Replacing my stock air meter
« on: March 20, 2008, 09:39:47 AM »
I thought something was missing from mine.... i'm having a hard time finding just that part, the part that covers up where the lights are.   Anyone know part number?  I've been looking through realoem but I can't seem to find it.

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