Messages

1

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Stock Internals - Boost Limits

« on: September 01, 2020, 10:02:11 AM »

What's the consensus on pressure limits for stock internals?  I recall from my research a while ago that 12 psi was pretty safe, but wondering if others have had reliable results around 1 bar or higher with just ARP hardware?  Everything Engineering on youtube is running 16 psi for 315whp, and Skudak is running 17 psi (unknown hp), and supposedly his same setup ran 29 psi at some point but that's scarcely believable, especially considering it only produced 320hp.   

2

Engine + Driveline / Re: Quick Throttle Body Question

« on: April 03, 2016, 09:36:23 AM »

Thank you so much guys!  I'm not sure I ever had one of those hoses hooked up since I bought the car back in 2008.  Upon one of many disassemblies, I saw the remnants of a small hose which was resting on the intake manifold, and finally I know what it was.  I can't believe I missed that for so long...

3

Engine + Driveline / Quick Throttle Body Question

« on: April 02, 2016, 10:55:37 AM »

I had a vacuum leak from my throttle body to intake manifold gasket, so I removed the throttle body to fix it.  I never actually spent much time looking at the throttle body and I was wondering if it was normal for this nozzle on the throttle body to vent to atmosphere.

4

Engine + Driveline / Re: How screwed am I??

« on: September 11, 2014, 10:30:39 AM »

The cylinder head has not been machined. Yes, my issue was my lack of installing that cover correctly as I now see. With the turbo, taking the valve cover off is an enormous process, so I'm gonna throw some silicone in there just to be safe.
 
 Oh, and there never was a recall for the profile gasket. I've never heard of significant issues with this profile gasket either, but I can't say I've looked for it. The flawed profile gasket was due to poor material and was between the head and block.
 
 Thank you all for the input. It's greatly appreciated

5

Engine + Driveline / Re: How screwed am I??

« on: September 10, 2014, 10:52:41 PM »

Good to know.
 
 And I have used all new gaskets in my rebuild. There seems to have been some sort of design flaw with the upper timing case piece. It sticks a bit above the plane of the head, so it causes a gap in the valve cover seal. There also seems to be a very poor seal between the upper and lower timing cases. I'm gonna bash on it a bit when I reinstall it to hopefully get the case cover to sit better. But the stock stuff isn't cutting it due to these issues

6

Engine + Driveline / How screwed am I??

« on: September 09, 2014, 07:03:54 PM »

Sunday I put some silicone on a small gap between the head, upper timing case, and valve cover.

Today I had to pull the upper timing case.  In the process some hardened excess silicone from the other day dropped down the timing case all the way down into the lower case.  The piece was about an inch long and about as wide as half the width of the valve cover-head mating surface. 

Am I going to have to tear down the engine to remove the piece or will I be okay to run it for a bit and hope it ends up in the oil pan where I can drain it out....?

7

Engine + Driveline / Re: What is this part?

« on: June 03, 2014, 06:34:08 AM »

Thanks for the reply.  Glad to see there is an option with a right angle still.  I'm currently going turbo, so the angle may not be a necessity.  I'll see what'll work best for me.  Thanks a lot!

8

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / m42 turbo vacuum hose routing

« on: June 02, 2014, 08:00:41 PM »

Alright, I think I have the plan for house routing.  I just don't want to screw it up, so let me know if I should be doing anything differently.  I deleted the TB heater plate BTW, and as mentioned, I am running a turbo.  I already installed a bypass hose from the nipple on the head to the plastic coolant pipe under the intake.

Rear intake mani nipple -> ICV -> TB

Brake booster -> ECS check valve http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E30-318is-M42_1.8L/Search/Booster_Check_Valve/ES61684/ -> Y-pipe -> hose coming from ICV to TB -> TB

Valve cover crankcase vent -> catch can (any recommendations on the cheap?) -> turbo inlet

9

Engine + Driveline / What is this part?

« on: June 02, 2014, 07:02:39 PM »

I have researched and researched and I cant find it on realoem.  There's no part number on this and I busted it in two pulling the hose off.  Please help!  It's the gray plastic piece forming a 90 degree angle on the hoses



I saw another post which Dave said he thought it was a non-return valve.  Part #13 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AC95&mospid=47277&btnr=34_0700&hg=34&fg=25.  34331154771.  But it doesn't really look correct in that diagram.  Mine is connected between just two hoses, where the diagram appears to be designed for 3?  I can't find an actual picture of that part number. 

Also, if this is just a brake booster check valve, would it be feasible to replace it with this? http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E30-318is-M42_1.8L/Search/Booster_Check_Valve/ES61684/  It would certainly save me money.

10

Engine + Driveline / Re: m42 Turbo Clutch setup

« on: March 25, 2014, 09:48:55 PM »

Thank you for your input, and yes, I understand the benefits of the m20 flywheel conversion and have done a fair amount of research on it.  My biggest problem is that I am already unhappy with the tranny chatter in neutral, and the last thing I want to do is make it worse.  Plus, my m42 components are in good shape, so I'm not keen to replace them.  I'll go the m20 route if need be, but I have to imagine there is a properly fitting suitable m42 clutch to handle 250hp.  But maybe I'm just a dreamer....haha

11

Engine + Driveline / m42 Turbo Clutch setup

« on: March 25, 2014, 05:52:32 PM »

I have searched and searched and have yet to find an answer that makes me feel comfortable.

I am building a 9psi turbo m42 (w/AC).  I do not want to rid of the dual mass flywheel.  There is already more gearbox rattle than I want.  I plan to resurface the flywheel and install a competent clutch.

Supposedly the stock clutch should be able to handle the ~200hp/tq the engine should put out but I've seen a couple people slip it.  So that brings me to my question:

What clutch can be used in combination with the stock flywheel to handle the higher power output?

Pelican lists Centerforce 1 or Dual Friction kits, but curiously, they don't list the 91 318is in the list of acceptable vehicle applications for either kit.  And as well, I've read that with a centerforce setup, there is a lack of clearance in the bellhousing for moving weight......what does this mean?

The only other thing I came across was clutchnet.com  which may have what I want, but I've never heard of them before and am skeptical

12

For Sale / Cheapo Stock e30 Parts

« on: June 14, 2012, 05:52:20 PM »

bump

Make any offer on anything!!  Need this stuff out of my basement.

13

For Sale / Cheapo Stock e30 Parts

« on: May 31, 2012, 01:40:45 PM »

Stock e30 318is muffler - $40 b/o + shipping
In good shape, no leaks.  Replaced it with a Magnaflow.  Also have mounting brackets and doughnuts.  The mounting brackets aren't in the best shape, but still work.

14

For Sale / Cheapo Stock e30 Parts

« on: May 31, 2012, 01:34:12 PM »

I have a few spare e30 parts lying around I'm sick of cluttering up my basement.  PM me with any questions/concerns and I'll be happy to answer.  I can also provide as many pictures as you'd like of whatever you'd like to see on the parts.  Make me an offer, I don't want to look at this stuff anymore

Stock e30 Springs and Rear Shocks - $20 or b/o + shipping
I have all four springs in good working order.  The front shocks were cut open when the shop cut off the stock housing, so they clearly don't work.  I have two rear shocks in good working order as well.  All components have some degree of surface rust.  There was no problem with the shocks or springs whatsoever, I just upgraded to BC Racing coilovers.  There were no strange noises or vibrations or the like.  Rear shock mounts were perfectly fine before they removed them.










Stock Alpine Plastic Bumper with sidemarkers and turn signals *DAMAGED* - $3 + shipping
Slid into a parked car in the winter of 2009.  Has bulbs in the turns, no bulbs in the sidemarkers.  Has all male connections except for the left front sidemarker.  Took it off and a cat played with it or something, so I might be able to find it, but no guarantee on that.  Turn signal lenses both have minor cracks in them, and the rear edge of the right side sidemarker is broken off.  The broken section of plastic is held on by duct tape for true baller status




Quarter for size reference


Stock US sealed beam headlights - $30 + shipping
Painted the trim rings black, but the paint has a couple chips.  All lights still work well.  The mounting brackets have a little surface rust, everything lines up properly.  I probably have the sealed beam pigtails if you want them.






4x100 14inch steelies - $50 or b/o + shipping
Got these with a set of tires I bought locally.  Have no need for a third set of rims.  Typical steelies...  Have some surface rust, nothing bad.  Also have 3 nine-spoke acura hubcaps if desired, cuz having four makes too much sense.

15

Member Profiles / Update!

« on: May 22, 2012, 01:38:02 PM »

Purchased a set of BC Racing BR Type coilovers for the e30.  Cost was $1050, spring rates of 10k front/12k rear.  I love them to no end.  The fronts could only go so low before the spring perch hits the tire on the stock basketweaves.

Pics of the coilovers and installed:








Trying to find a pic taken from the Great Lakes G2G in Ohio.  Will update it later.  Show was awesome.  Only 3 other e30's there though, one of which was a beautiful M3, and was for sale!!  Here she is:



Then some retard hit my car, damaging the fender, and causing a total of $1200 worth of damage.  Just got the check and will be adressing it soon


I also recently picked up a set of XXR 002's in 16x8.  I'm still working on the fitment, waiting to get the fenders rolled, so it has massive amounts of rake and looks a bit ridiculous, but here she is now anyway: