Messages

1

General Topics / Cruise Control Retrofit Failure...

« on: March 03, 2011, 05:42:01 PM »

Yep, that was the problem.  I grounded the green/red on the cruise harness and now all is functioning.  Now I have to put a safety kill switch on the cruise so that when other people are driving they can't use the cruise control.  

Thanks for all the help guys.  Would have had this working on the first shot thanks to the writeup if it weren't for the LED tail mods... oh well.

2

General Topics / Cruise Control Retrofit Failure...

« on: March 02, 2011, 06:51:53 AM »

I don't think the wiring is right on the brake.  The wires match on my cruise to the brake switch.  I'm thinking it can't be turned on unless you have the polarity correct.  You've really covered all the bases though.  I'd be willing to bet that the cruise can plug into any one of the cluster sockets, they're probably all the same signal intended for various optional sensors.

+1 on the single ground wire...   I don't remember you mentioning it.  It's a single brown (or brown/yellow?) wire that goes into a single white connector.  I pulled mine with the little eyelet terminal intact & used that to ground it at the firewall main ground stud.

There must be some differences between the years.  My harness has brown wires off the clutch switch.  The brake wires were the same color as the cruise power switch, so I spliced them right in.  I also noted that early cars had a different cruise stalk connector, but that can't be your trouble because they physically won't fit into a late model harness.

I'm pretty sure that's where my problem is too (brake switch).  My wires do not match though.  The green/red one does but the load side is green/purple and does not match my white/violet.  I will try wiring it like this again and see what happens.  My problem here is that I am getting +12v on my green/red wire... if I connect it to the green/red wire on my brake switch then I end up with my brake lights on at all times.

My ground wire is connected to a random ground circuit, and I tested it for continuity to ground to make sure it was good.

I also tested the speed signal wire from the cluster.  I got continuity from the gauge all the way back to the cruise computer plug so I know I'm good there.

Thanks for posting Jake... much appreciated, especially the pics.  I will try wiring it up just like that and see if it helps.

I'm beginning to think the problem is my LED brake light circuit honestly.  Because I am using resistors and not bulbs to create resistance so that the relay doesn't freak out (hyperblink), I think I am getting small voltage on that green/red wire.  Not enough to light the bulb circuit, but enough to make the cruise computer think that I am pressing the brake pedal.  What do you guys think?  I am leaning HEAVILY towards this actually and can't believe I didn't think of it before.

3

General Topics / Cruise Control Retrofit Failure...

« on: March 01, 2011, 06:13:18 PM »

Ok, I am actually getting pretty damn frustrated now...

Tested all the components (except wire harness) individually in another car and they all worked fine.  Put everything back into the 318is and nothing.  I am going over the wiring diagrams now and can not figure it out.

I have my green/red wire on the load side of the brake switch which is the purple/green wire and NOT the green/red wire as in the write up.  I am getting +12v on the cruise harness' green/red wire... so if I connect it to the green/red wire on the brake switch my brake lights are always on of course... just like pressing the brakes completes the circuit.  Is that normal to have +12v on that green/red wire?

Clutch switch is shorted with a wire going between the two green/red wires.

My violet/white wire is now on switched +12v somewhere other than from the brake switch... I think I used one of the wires on the ignition switch.

I have a 4000 mile road trip coming up and really want this functioning... any help is appreciated.  I can't believe I am having this kind of difficulty adding what looks like a stupid simple system.

4

Engine + Driveline / what is this?

« on: February 27, 2011, 08:57:32 AM »

That's your crank position sensor and it doesn't enter the motor.  So you can't be leaking oil from there... if that is the CPS.

5

General Topics / Cruise Control Retrofit Failure...

« on: February 25, 2011, 04:48:00 PM »

Ok... tested the computer, actuator, and stalk in the other car and everything is good. I wonder if there is a break in the harness somewhere? Going to pull the harnesses and check for continuity from one end to the other.

I doubt the speed sensor plug on the back of the cluster could be the problem, but with my luck that's what it will turn out to be.

6

General Topics / Cruise Control Retrofit Failure...

« on: February 25, 2011, 01:35:39 AM »

Signal generator is the only way I could think of without tearing into the working car's cruise.  Since I didn't want to try and locate one I tore into the other car a bit.

I tested the suspect computer in the convertible (working cruise) and it was good.  Cruise worked perfectly.  I also tested the wiring at the computer to verify I was getting the same sorts of results in both cars.  I was.

So tomorrow... I am going to test the actuator, and then the switch.  I am going in order of work needed to test... sooooo we'll see how that goes.  Personally I think it's the actuator even though they generally never go bad (so I'm told).

7

General Topics / Cruise Control Retrofit Failure...

« on: February 24, 2011, 12:59:19 PM »

Ok no luck... I tested the purple/white wire and it is indeed getting switched +12v even though it is tied into the brake switch's purple/green wire.  I went ahead and shorted the clutch switch wires as well... they were the same color so it made sense anyway.

So let's recap, I have the speedo wire hooked up to A on the green plug of the cluster.  I have the green/red wire of the cruise harness tied to the green/red of the brake switch, and I have the purple/white wire tied into the purple/green wire on the brake switch (verified switched 12v).  Of course all harnesses and plugs are attached (stalk, computer, actuator).  Am I missing something or is one of my components dead?

Personally i am leaning towards one of the components being kaput.  I asked my buddy at the shop I work at (BMW idie shop) and he says it is very common for the cruise computers to take a dump.

Thoughts?

8

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / dynotech motorsports budget turbo build

« on: February 23, 2011, 02:29:41 PM »

10 psi on an m42 will yeild about 200 rwhp for those interested in the output. quite quick for an e30.

QFT... I outrun my buddies m52 swapped car without too much trouble.  

Sorry to hear you sold it, and wish I was closer for some actual dyno tuning on mine but at least I have it running fairly smooth after tuning for over a year now.  lol.

9

General Topics / Cruise Control Retrofit Failure...

« on: February 23, 2011, 02:21:51 PM »

^Thanks for those tips guys... will try it out.  

Neither of those points are mentioned in the DIY page... I'll post an update on that when I am done and have everything working as it should.

10

General Topics / Cruise Control Retrofit Failure...

« on: February 23, 2011, 07:02:57 AM »

^I was under the impression you should still have functioning cruise without the clutch switch?  At least that's what it sounded like according to the DIY.

I did crimp onto the brake circuit though only one of the wires matched.  The green/red one matched and the purple/white one did not.  Should I have connected that one elsewhere.

I guess first place to start would be to check whether or not the computer is getting 12v... then check the actuator.  I did use an m20 one with an e36 actuator cable...

11

General Topics / Cruise Control Retrofit Failure...

« on: February 22, 2011, 04:04:31 PM »

Well, followed the directions on the DIY and installed cruise today.  Of course I go to try it out and it does not function.

My question is where should I start troubleshooting?  I don't know if everything worked prior to install as it came out of a yard car.  I'm guessing the wiring is good as it looked to be in good shape.

Is there a way to test the actuator without just replacing with a known good one?  I can do that but would rather not tear apart my convertible's working cruise to start swapping parts.

Thanks for any suggestions.

12

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Another budget turbo build.

« on: June 17, 2010, 01:08:45 PM »

I am still running on stock ecu and fuel pump with no problems. Timing is also stock. Thats why I can't exceed 8psi.

8psi is fun too.  LOL and I'll bet yours handles load changes better than my MS1.  Stupid no ICV.

13

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Yet Another Turbo Build Thread (Semi Budget, lots o pictars)

« on: June 17, 2010, 10:10:22 AM »

Here's a video for you guys.  Recently had my exhaust redone and rewelded the manifold as it had cracked everywhere.  Added a bunch of gussets so it won't ever happen again.

YouTube Vid

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Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Another Turbo M42 buildup

« on: February 05, 2010, 12:37:35 PM »

Are they 36lb/hr @ 3bar?  If so they will support 7psi just fine.  I ran 7psi on 28lb'ers and was getting 85% duty cycle, but not until I was up at 7000rpms.  Guessing you'll be at around 180ish rwhp assuming the engine itself is in good form.

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Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Yet Another Turbo Build Thread (Semi Budget, lots o pictars)

« on: January 18, 2010, 11:33:56 AM »

Recently had my turbo suck up a piece of silicon (my fault, didn't put intake tube on properly) and bend all the turbine fins so disassembled the turbo.  Everything looked fresh and clean confirming that the previous owner did indeed do a full rebuild on it.  While I had it apart, I soaked it in paint stripper, then cleaner, and then paint.  Below are the end results.  It's back on the road now with a new wheel which is in better shape than the one that came off of it... so at least some good came out of sucking up the silicon.