Messages

1

For Sale / 318is Driveshaft - WI

« on: December 09, 2012, 02:48:18 PM »

I have a driveshaft from a 1991 318is for sale.  
I just put a new CSB on it and had it balanced, the joints are all in great shape.  

I was getting it ready to put in my car then found that I did not need it.

$300 shipped.

2

Engine + Driveline / Transmission output shat play?

« on: October 04, 2011, 03:17:06 PM »

Any updates on this?  I have similar play in my output, and get chattering that I think is from the drivetrain as well.  I've not had a chance to pull the heat shield to look at the center support bearing yet.

3

For Sale / FS: 1991 BMW 318is

« on: October 01, 2010, 03:50:46 PM »

Do you have a stock airbox?  I am looking for the box, mounting hardware and piping.  I do not need the MAF or anything after that, nor do I need the airfilter.

4

For Sale / 318IS EAT Chip 93 octane

« on: August 13, 2010, 08:22:07 AM »

Sold

5

For Sale / 318IS EAT Chip 93 octane

« on: August 12, 2010, 06:48:42 PM »

I have an EAT chip for sale for an E30 318IS w/ M42.  It is the 93 octane tune, and raises the rev limiter to 7100 rpms.



$120 shipped.

6

For Sale / lots of parts

« on: May 14, 2010, 10:53:25 AM »

Thats too bad, I would have taken that IS rear spoiler off of you.

7

Engine + Driveline / Another starting problem, but a little bit different this time.

« on: March 24, 2010, 06:49:22 AM »

Yep, thats what I was thinking.  I replaced the whole mess under the intake manifold, but I did not even touch the fuel lines.

Guess that was a mistake, since Ill have to pull at least the upper intake manifold off again.

8

Engine + Driveline / Another starting problem, but a little bit different this time.

« on: March 23, 2010, 03:41:51 PM »

As a possible resolution, I think that I have determined that my problem is in fact a fuel pressure issue.

There are two hard fuel lines going up underneath the intake.  I pushed the fuel line closest to the firewall up and heard an air leak as the system depressurized.  So I either have a cracked fuel hose, or a bad seal up in that mess.

I will not know until I get in there and replace the hoses, but it seems like a reasonable solution.

9

Engine + Driveline / Another starting problem, but a little bit different this time.

« on: March 22, 2010, 08:52:18 AM »

I pulled the resistor pack/cable, and it ran like it did before, with the same starting issue.  So that eliminates that I think.

I do have a new TPS on the way, but the more I think about it, the more it seems like a fuel pressure issue, just because after turning the car off, the engine will fire up right away immediately afterward.

I also picked up a new fuel filter, because mine is way over the recommended 6000 mile service interval.

10

Engine + Driveline / Another starting problem, but a little bit different this time.

« on: March 19, 2010, 01:18:21 PM »

Actually, I do have one of those on my car.  Part number on the rubber boot at the AFM end is 17345163, but I am not finding it on RealOEM or Pelican Parts.

Whats the purpose of this resistor pack?  Some sort of quick and easy fix for some issue?

11

Engine + Driveline / Another starting problem, but a little bit different this time.

« on: March 19, 2010, 09:25:49 AM »

As for stomp codes, I get a code for coil pack 1.  Ive replaced the coil pack yet still get the code.  I suspect it has to do with my EAT chip, as I have read about that issue before.  No code for TPS, but then, I believe I have also read that it can still check out OK as far as the DME is concerned, even if its going bad.

I did resistance tests on the AFM temp sensor and it came back good.  Where is this AFM resistor pack?  Are you talking about the black box connected to the AFM where the wiring connects?

I have read about the check valve as well, but there should be a cause for it.  Either the check valve on the fuel pump has bad, in which case I would go with the check valve.  If the fuel pressure regulator is the issue, I would rather just replace it.

Ive got to order some stuff from Pelican anyway, so I may as well pick up a new TPS.

12

Engine + Driveline / Another starting problem, but a little bit different this time.

« on: March 19, 2010, 07:06:00 AM »

I have developed a starting problem in my 91 318is.

Cold starts, for example, its about 30F this morning, it started right up, although it is a bit rough for a few seconds.  The idle surged between 600 and 1000rpms for about 5 seconds before settling down to a nice idle.

However, yesterday, it was about 60F and it would just crank.  It tries to start a little bit, but does not catch, but then I push the gas pedal down a bit, it fires right up. Then, if I kill the engine and start it again after waiting a few seconds, it fires right up.  If I wait 10 or 15 minutes, it does not start, and just cranks until I push the accelerator.

Note that both of the starts listed above were after the car sat all night, so the only change was ambient temperature.

I do smell fuel when I have the starting issue.

-I tested the resistance on both the cam and crank sensors and they were good.
-My ICV appears to be fine, it hums and vibrates. Also, I have two of them and recently swapped them as a test with no change. Cleaned it up with carb cleaner when I swapped them.
-Airflow sensor swings freely, and the sensor looks fine. I also have two of these, I ran resistance tests on both of them and they seem OK
-Before winter, I redid the mess of hose underneath the intake manifold. I also replaced the temp sensor.  I have also sprayed carb cleaner on the various hosing looking for a leak, with no luck
-I am trying to replace my O2 sensor, but that sucker is stuck.  However, I do not believe that has anything to do with starting the car.  Note: I did unplug the O2 sensor and drive around the block.  The car was warm and I noticed no difference in performance nor starting.
-Fuel pump is only 3 years old, and turns on when cranking.
-New spark plugs and ignition coils. I did not replace the wires, but they look to be in decent condition.

Possible issues
-I tried to perform diagnostics on my TPS, but was unable to get any good readings for any of the tests. I believe the TPS does help control the ICV. I wonder if a failing TPS could be why my car starts as soon as I give the car some throttle, if perhaps it is not reporting a closed throttle condition properly.
-Fuel regulator. Could this be the cause? On a cold start, extra fuel is injected, on a start in warm weather, it is not. Then, when I start the car immediately afterward, it works fine, I still have fuel pressure. So my thought is that perhaps, after sitting a while, I am losing fuel pressure, but the cold start system takes kind of bypasses the issue.


Battery is good, and once started, the car runs and idles great.  I would just like some opinions before dropping cash on a new TPS, fuel regulator and possibly ICV.

13

Engine + Driveline / Whine from the rear

« on: May 09, 2008, 10:30:48 AM »

Another update.....

I replaced my diff.  The noise is still here.  I am going to replace my center support bearing once I get myself a new air compressor.

The only driveshaft I have messed with is with my 300ZX, it just has a rubber center support.  I did not realize that the BMW center support has an actual bearing that connects the two driveshaft pieces.  This has got to be it, it sounds exactly like a bad bearing.

14

Engine + Driveline / Whine from the rear

« on: April 25, 2008, 07:46:38 AM »

So an update (finally).

I have done a bit with my car since then.  A bunch of new suspension parts, control arms, springs, shocks etc.  Anyway, more importantly, I have replaced both rear wheel bearings, and put in a 4.10 LSD from diffsonline.com.  One of my rear calipers locked up as well, so my rear calipers, pads and rotors were replaced.

The whine is still there.  It really sounds like it is coming from the back, but I wonder if my driveshaft is making the noise.  My ebrake seems to work properly, so I do not know if that could be it.

Before replacing the diff, I lifted the rear wheels up and spun them up to about 60MPH.  My mechanic friend said that the noise was coming from the diff.  Since I have a new (used) diff and the noise is still there, I am looking towards something with the driveshaft.

I think my next step is to check out the Guibo/flex disk and center bearing.

I wonder, could it simply be my tires making noise?  Sounds more mechanical/metal than a rubber on pavement sound though.

15

Suspension / Bilstein upgrade question?

« on: March 08, 2008, 04:38:53 PM »

I like the way Eurospec's car looks, so I decided to pick up some HR OE springs and Bilstein HDs.  

The HDs fit just fine, but it looks like I need a new strut housing in order to mount the springs.  The top fits fine, but the bottom of the spring is too wide to fit in the stut housing.  

Is there a way around this problem, or am I stuck either picking up M3 strut housings or attempting to return the springs?

And yes, the model number I bought was 50404.55

edit:  Now the plot thickens....   The box says part number 50404.55.  The springs inside the box say 50424.55.