Messages

1

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Was EATON supercharger, now TURBO

« on: January 17, 2008, 09:44:26 AM »

I installed one of those on an Escort GT a few years back. Made 7psi of boost. Real fun. I looked into this for the M42 and believe I found the best way to do it. First you will need 2 X custom flanges fo rthe intake and supercharger exhaust. Thomas knight http://www.boosthead.com can fab them up for you pretty cheap. Next you will need to decide if you are going to use the magnetic clutch or have boost always on. I recommend a bosch bypass valve to recirculate the boost under idle as the supercharger will be forcing way too much air into the TB under idle and low RPM. Best mounting places are either in place of the ac compressor or above the alternator. The Mercedes eaton uses a 5 rib pulley so you either need to change your crank pulley and alternator/ac compressor pulley or simply have a v style pulley matched for the supercharger (you will lose the magnetic clutch however) Getting a belt to fit should be cake. Yoou will not need a BOV if you use a bypass valve. you can get some nice 1" in/out for VW's and SRT-4's that will work awesome. It really depends on the model eaton you are using as the latest gen have built in bypass valves but I doubt you are getting one of those. Another option is to use a large check valve about 2'5" in diameter, commonly used for plumbing. then you can have it pull air NA until the supercharger creates enough pressure to slam it shut. this will require that you recirc air back to the beginning of the eaton and have the check valve portion of the intake Tee'd into it.

you can do it either of these 2 ways. I used a BOV but its not required with a bypass valve. either way it will work. i love seeing bang up jobs of people doing stuff like this. Dont let anyone discourage you and keep us updated.

2

Engine management / Dinan Chip?

« on: December 21, 2007, 04:12:26 PM »

I sent him an email and he stated that it is for 91 octane like the rest of the, Also emailed me a set of instructions. Funny thing is that the instructions are written by ac schitzner. Maybe its just a copy of the eprom. No complaints from me on any of the other chips, im sure this one will be just as good as the others.


Heres a copy of the email.

Installation Instructions

Removing the ECU from the car


E30 3-Series

1.)   The Ecu is located inside the car. Open the glove box. Remove the pins securing the glove box door to the mounting straps. You can let the glove box door rest on the floor


2.)   325E: Remove the Phillips screws on the front of the black plastic cover at the top of the glove box. Remove the black plastic screws at the rear of the black plastic cover. Pull this panel down and set it aside.
   

3.)   Remove the 10mm bolts or the Phillips screws securing the engine control unit  
      (ECU) to the dashboard.

4.)   Unclip the metal fastener locking the wiring harness into the ECU and remove the    
harness. Take the Ecu to your workbench.





AT YOUR TABLE


1.)   The Bosch part number on your ECU must be 0-261-200-175. If this number is not printed on the label – DO NOT INSTALL THE PERFORMANCE CHIP, your car will not be happy!

2.)   Place the ECU on your table with its part number label facing down. Use a small pocket screwdriver to pry up the six locking tabs securing the ECU’s cover; pry each tab up only enough to insert the medium screwdriver. Use the medium-sized screwdriver to finish prying the tabs upward until they’re vertical. Be careful; the tabs will weaken with repeated prying. Remove the ECU cover and set it aside.

3.)   Locate the socketed chip on the printed circuit board. Clue; the chip is secured with a white plastic clip in the shape of the letter “H”.

4.)   Remove the retaining clip by inserting the pocket screwdriver into one of the small slots in the clip’s side and prying toward the other slot. The retaining clip will pop up on the side in which the screwdriver is inserted. Use your fingertip to hold that side up while you repeat the process for the other side. Set the clip aside – it will not be reused.

5.)   This step is VERY important! By removing the original chip, examine how it is oriented in its socket. Particularly note where the “divot” is positioned. On some cars the divots maybe on opposite ends from each other. On others they may line up. IT IS CRUCIAL TO YOU THAT REMEMBER WHICH END THE CHIP’S DIVOT IS INSTALLED ON! Remove the chip from its socket with the pocket screwdriver. Insert the blade between the chip and the socket and pry gently upward. Alternately pry each end of the chip until it is COMPLETELY loose. WARNING: pry the chip from the socket – not the socket from the board! As you remove the chip from it’s socket, grasp it by the chip itself and not by the pins. THE PINS ARE FRAGILE! Keep the stock chip – you may want to reinstall it later.

6.)   NOTE: the pins of all computer chips are very fragile! Every chip that leaves AC Schnitzer is inspected for quality. If the pins on the module, encryptor board ever become bent or tweaked DO NOT attempt to bend them back into place. AC Schnitzer will not be responsible for broken or damaged chips. Call us for instructions on getting a new chip sent to you.

7.)   Remember the Performance chip must be oriented in the socket in the same fashion as the original chip was (this is why step 5 is critical). The chip has a U groove on it. This is the divot end. Rest one row of pins from the Performance Chip on the socket. Ensure that each and every pin lines with a corresponding socket hole. If each pin lines up then gently push down on each row to LIGHTLY set the chip in the socket. Avoid bending and flexing the printed circuit board while inserting the chip. Apply firm but gentle pressure on the chip during installation. Push down on the chip until it “clicks” into the socket. NEVER bend any of the pins to ease installation. Visually verify that all of the Performance Chip’s pins are in their corresponding socket holes and that all of the socket holes have pins.

8.)   The white plastic retaining clip will not fit over your new Performance Chip.  This is not necessary for the vehicle to run.  Reinstall the ECU’s cover in the reverse order of step 2.  Use the pliers to bend the locking tabs back into place.

9.)   Reinstall the ECU into the car and plug the wiring harness back in.  Start the car and ENJOY!

3

Engine management / Dinan Chip?

« on: December 21, 2007, 08:49:47 AM »

Just thought I would add a not about ebay chips. I have had 2 X 325E's, 2 X 325I's, 4 X E36 325IS's and 4 E34 525I's, a 735I and a 635CSI. I have used, TMS chips, Dinan chips and the cheapo ebay chips (xg-motorsports). I can definitely say that the cheap ebay chips gave the eta's the same performance gains with no adverse effects as the dinan chips did. I actually had 2 eta's at the same time one chippe dwith dinan and the other with a cheapo and the performance was identical. I have only used 1 other ebay chip on an E36 325is and there was a very noticable gain. The tms chip I used was for my S50 conversion I did and it was the kit with the 3.5" maf so there is no contest comparing that one. All of my E34's had dinan chips but I woul dnot be afraid of running a ebay chip from the right seller (in this case xg motorsports) I just ordered one for my 318I sedan and will post some butt dyno results when it gets here.

4

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / M42/M50Turbo Manifold Q's

« on: December 20, 2007, 07:28:28 AM »

I have seen that there is a posibility that a M50 Tuebo Manifold will fit the M42 by cutting off runners 1 and 2 and welding the turn on #4 shut. Just want to confirm if this is true or not. Also, does it have to be re drilled? and will a standard 60 trim T3 fit with internal wastegate? I have a 91 318IS that is ready to roll and I want to make that puppy scream.

5

Engine + Driveline / Setting Base timing on M42?

« on: December 15, 2007, 06:43:59 AM »

Doesnt matter anyway, I did what I should have done in the first place. Compression test. Cylinder #1 is dead. Pulled the head and the valves are bent. Scew it , I have another excellent running 91 318 and a 325. Im just going to do a M20 or m50 engine swap and turbo it. I really wanted to turbo a M42 but its gonna $500 more just for the damn manifold.

6

Engine + Driveline / No Fuel On Cylinders 1 And 2

« on: December 14, 2007, 07:06:00 AM »

Swapped injectors 3&4 with 1&2 and same results (no pulse on 1 & 2 ) so they must not be getting voltage. I will pick up a noid light today to be 100% certain. I swapped ECU's from my other 91 that runs fine to no avail. I assume that 1&2 fire fuel at the same time and 3&4 fire fuel at the same time (correct me if I am wrong)  so the circuit must not be complete for 1 & 2. I understand that the Cam position sensor controls firing of fuel into the cylinders so I will swap that out as well today. Any other ideas would be great.

7

Engine + Driveline / No Fuel On Cylinders 1 And 2

« on: December 13, 2007, 02:48:00 PM »

Last problem,, I think. I am definitely not getting fuel to cylinders 1 or 2. 3 and 4 are fine. Could a CPS or crank sensor affect this? Or is it more likely faled injectos, wiring or ECU?

8

Engine + Driveline / Setting Base timing on M42?

« on: December 13, 2007, 10:55:08 AM »

Put it all back together. Fired right up. Still real lopey. Would a weak tensioner allow the exhaust cam to follow a little extra and cause it to run bad or do I just need some fine tuning on the sprokets? Everything lined up nice and neat but I could compress the tensioner with my hands and put it back in uncompressed.

9

Engine + Driveline / Setting Base timing on M42?

« on: December 13, 2007, 08:04:50 AM »

Do the Cam lobes need to be pointing directly at one another on cylinder #1? or should they be slightly upward, This answer will completely solve my problem I think.

Cylinder 1 (front) at TDC

Camlobes at Cylinder 1, poining towards each other...

Arrows on sprockets pointing upward

Use a ruler on the square, on the back of the camshaft to set them square.

Tighten everything up.

Rotate engine 720-degree, double check everything.

check out the procedure in the factory manual before doing your work:
http://m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=964

10

Engine + Driveline / Setting Base timing on M42?

« on: December 12, 2007, 03:30:11 PM »

I have finally found the problem. The timing was screwed and the timing chain must have jumped. My questions is, "How do I set the base timing" I need to know exactly the position the cams need to be in, as well as the sprokets and the crank. I am so damn close to getting this thing fixed I just need some help getting everything lined up. The previous owner must have removed the cam sprokets as well so I need to know the position the sprokets need to be in as well.

Thanks

11

Engine + Driveline / Running rough, lack of power

« on: December 11, 2007, 07:01:33 PM »

I'm assuming no oil leaks anywhere... maybe cams not aligned to TDC?

Possibly, How can I tell if they are in the proper position? Would I have to pull the whole timing chain covers off or can I adjust by removing the tensioner?

12

Engine + Driveline / Running rough, lack of power

« on: December 11, 2007, 01:50:30 PM »

Checked with an unlit propane torch and rerouted all vacuum lines when doing a heater plate delete.

13

Engine + Driveline / Running rough, lack of power

« on: December 11, 2007, 10:50:58 AM »

I thought I had this car right but its time for some help. It is a 91 318IS and it runs rough exactly as a car would with an aggrssive cam in it. Engine noise up front (sounds like the timing chain tensioner needs to be replaced) The car just doesnt run right and it feels like the timing is not advancing correctly under load. I also have a perfect running 91 318 that I have swapped the following from to troubleshoot it.

Swapped IAC (helped the hunting idle but still real choppy but stays around 800 without moving)
Swapped coolant temp sensor (I know thise wreaked havoc on M20's from experience) no change
Swapped the cam PS and the Crank PS with no noticable change
Swapped AFM's no change.

As for maintenance I did the following

New Fuel pump and filter
Pulled fuel rail and manually cleaned injectors
Installed new NGK dual plugs.
flushed engine put in new mobil 1 synthetic
Removed cat, running 2.5" straight to a dynomax Muffler


All cylinders are firing and I am pretty confident that all injectors are firing.

I have had the car for a few weeks and it simply has never run right. I am wondering if the pervious owner attempted a timing chain replacement and put it on wrong. How can i tell if the timing is correct?

Any other recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

14

Vendors / GB / EAT chip group buy for E30 M42!

« on: December 08, 2007, 06:55:18 PM »

If this deal is still live, i am in for a 93, cash on the barrelhead.

15

Vendors / GB / e85 104-110 Octane Chip

« on: December 06, 2007, 07:59:14 AM »

I have been running a 50%+ E85 mix in my Turbo M20 for over a year with fantastic results. I know d'sylva makes a 93 octane chip for the M42 but was thinking about trying to get a gb together for an E85 chip. Ethanol has an octane rating of 104-110+ depending on the season (they lower the rating to 104 in the winter). This stuff is basically race gas and is readily available for less than the cost of 87 fuel. Hell, we even have a station in Tallahassee, FL. Also, contrary to popular belief it does not eat through lines and tanks etc... There was a lot of that misinformation floating around but it is false. Anyway, share your thoughts and see what we can do. i am ready to roll with cash in hand