Messages

1

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Another idea

« on: April 12, 2008, 09:03:35 PM »

Remember, he WAS talking about using this turbo system only as a stopgap measure until he had his stroker motor completed.  Maybe he just decided to cut his losses on the turbo system and move back to the stroker build...

And hey, it's his money, his time and his choice to stop posting.  So everyone who paid him for this information, go ahead and file a complaint.

Either way, I hope he gives us some more of his results.

-95C

2

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / how to e36 turbo install step by step

« on: April 12, 2008, 02:18:46 PM »

NM, found it

3

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / how to e36 turbo install step by step

« on: April 12, 2008, 02:10:19 PM »

Also 318kid you can see some videos of it just go to the ebay site before the bid ends and look at thte videos on there.

What is the ebay # or URL?

-Thanks

4

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / how to e36 turbo install step by step

« on: March 31, 2008, 04:50:27 PM »

the return line is working fine i just test drove the car for 2 days allready . the turbo set to low to tap the oil pan as return point. NOW you mention the floper ....yes i know exacly what you mean and im thinking the same on that i dont know what route to go...(if i remove the floper what wud happend? ) is there a MAF convertion for my car?? if you know please gime me some imput.. ill post some video tonight running at 8 psi... it feels great but the A/F is jumping  lean for a split second in 3rd gear and goin back to rich... i havnt conect the lambada o2 yet but i figure that injectors #715 are 23% biger than stock and the fmu shud compensate for the rest.... now i dont know if the stupid flopers in the intake or in the maf are the cause of this...what is your take on this...?

If you remove the flapper from the AFM, the car won't run.  The ECU is calculating air mass from the calibrated flapper and the temp sensor (hanging down in the airflow). The TPS is likely only being used for accel enrichment, full-throttle enrichment, and overrun fuel cut (hard deceleration/coasting).  

MAF Conversion:  http://bmw.e30tuner.com/articles_mafcon.php

The flapper in the intake system (the DISA valve) should be disconnected so that it no longer operates. It has an electric vacuum solenoid connected to the ECU which switches over at 4800 RPM (going up) and 4200 RPM (going down). Disconnect the vacuum line to the solenoid and that should stop it from operating. Alternatively, you could cut the wire that goes to PIN #18 in the engine harness.  That wire activates the DISA valve solenoid.

You really should have that WBo2 in there if you're driving at anything close to full throttle... I found my M42's stock NB sensor to be pretty far off.  The NB would also give false data when the engine sputters or misfires... and continued to give bad data for a second or two after the misfire.  If you're relying on the lambda sensor to make substantial mixture corrections (which it must be doing with the new injectors when NOT under boost) you should install the WB, program the output to simulate a NB and connect it to the ECU in place of the NB.  You'll get MUCH better mixture control when that is set up.

I don't know, but I doubt that the ECU is using the O2 data to make any larger than a 25% change in supplied fuel, no matter how far away from stoichiometric you get.  Seems like your FMU and larger injectors may be overpowering the maximum lambda correction MOST of the time.

Where is the spot where the engine goes lean? (RPM, estimated throttle position).  

Can't wait to see a vid!  Congrats!

5

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / how to e36 turbo install step by step

« on: March 26, 2008, 07:49:21 AM »

Well, I've got two, a BIG old 400 Amp Miller arc welder that I bought from a welding shop that was retooling ($1600 welder for $150!), but I usually use the MIG.  It's from Harbor Freight.. got it on special for less than $188.  I think the CO2 regulator was another $40 or so and then the tank rental... The MIG welder and gas I use at work occassionally and so I had the company pay for it.

If you search online, you can find coupons for discounts at Harbor Freight... usually 10-15% off.  Definitely worth checking out before you buy anything there!  Here's a page with coupons for example:

http://printable-coupons.blogspot.com/2006/07/harbor-freight-coupons.html

6

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Welds

« on: March 25, 2008, 06:53:07 PM »

I know you're almost done and CONGRATULATIONS on the progress!  I can't wait to hear what you have to say after you drive it!

Please don't take this as a flame by any means!!  I'm no pro at welding by any means, but I've done it some and mine started off looking like yours.
 
I'm assuming (from the looks of it) that you're using an inexpensive wire-feed welder.  

Just some tips I think will make things go more easily:  

Make sure you've got flux-core wire.. if not, buy some, it's cheap!  Solid core wire won't cut it without gas!

By the looks of it, your wire speed is TOO SLOW!  The pop-corning is because you're breaking the arc over and over again.  You may need to crank up the power a little bit too to support the faster wire.  But I think this will make a huge improvement and allow you to lay down a continuous weld more easily.  If you've already tried that, your wire may be slipping in the pinch-rollers and causing it to feed slowly or intermittently.

If you can add MIG gas (may require an optional valve), get some!!  It's cheap too, I rent a cylinder from National Welders (local supply company) and it's like $65 a year, and only about $40 to have the tank filled.  Well worth the money.  When you get the MIG gas going, you'll wonder why you waited so long, it is sooooo much easier, and makes real pretty welds!

I've been down the same road with learning to weld (and not too long ago) I was blown away when I finally got a MIG tank and solid-core wire.  NIght and day difference!

Best of luck!

7

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Check engine light?

« on: March 25, 2008, 04:24:18 AM »

For OBDI:

Turn on ignition
Floor and release the throttle pedal 5 times within 5 seconds
Check engine light will blink any stored codes first
--- ignore the first 5s and 2.5s blink and 2.5s pause
Your 4 digit codes will now blink one after the other with a pause between each

Example:
____
____
____  ____  ____  ____
____
     
Would be 1141


To RESET the codes:

-Start by accessing codes (see above)
-After all of the codes have been shown, you should get a '1000' code, which will look like a 1/2 second light followed by nothing
-Floor the throttle pedal for at least 10 seconds
-Turn off ignition
-Check codes again
-1444 means the ECM has been cleared of codes

I've got the codes in my Bentley manual if you need to know what yours are telling you.
If its OBDII, I think you need a tool to reset/check the codes.

Cheers

8

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / how to e36 turbo install step by step

« on: March 15, 2008, 08:32:10 AM »

I was thinking about making a new downpipe alltogether.  The 3" tubing is excessive and I think there may be problems with boost creep (in this low-pressure system) because the path through the turbo will have far less restriction than through the wastegate.  

Also, there isn't adequate room under the car to run a full 3" exhaust all the way to the tail, especially around the rear sub-frame, so it will have to be reduced at some point along the way anyhow!  I'd also like to integrate the wastegate dump into the downpipe because the wastegate will probably be dumping from about 2500 RPM up, and it'll just be too damn loud to have a straight wastegate exhaust all the way from 3000-7000 at full throttle...

Are you going to use the stock cat?

Are you sure you need the scavenge pump on the oil return?  Looks like the bearings may be a couple inches above the oil line.  What if you rotated the center section about 25-30 degrees clockwise (as viewed from the rear).  I know the drain wouldn't be vertical, but it doesn't have to be exactly vertical.  Corky Bell recommends +/- 30 degrees max.

Keep up the good work!

9

Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / how to e36 turbo install step by step

« on: March 04, 2008, 12:05:02 PM »

Glad to see someone else with this manifold!!  I just bought the same one last week, and had concerns about it fitting in the E36.  The seller told me it was a top-mount, which I knew was impossible.  Did you get the 3" downpipe with it?  What do you plan for exhaust and wastegate plumbing?

I still have to get a new turbo, likely a T3, .48AR from Ebay.  

What model turbo is the Garrett you're using?  Looks as big as the brand new T04E .60AR I've got already (decided that was too big for the stock compression ratio of 10.5:1).

I installed MegaSquirt 'n Spark on my 318ti last year after the stock ECU ate it.  I've got it tuned pretty well now, running normally aspirated.  Looks like the stock injectors are 'banked out' at near 80% duty cycle on the stock motor/fuel pressure at WOT, so I plan to add a rising rate FPR to supply the extra pressure when the turbo gets installed.  Of course, I'll be able to tweak the fuel map to fine tune the AFR and use the LC-1 WBo2 system for automatic feedback and tuning, so the problems inherent with using RRFPR's alone won't be a factor.

Best of luck, and I'll be watching your thread carefully.

Cheers,
Scott

10

Engine management / Update?

« on: November 14, 2007, 08:03:31 PM »

Hey, have you figured out what the problem was?