Messages

1

WTB/WTT / WTB Hood, Fender, Misc "Trailer Hitch" Parts, Michigan

« on: January 23, 2012, 08:03:27 PM »

This is posted at r3v as well: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?p=2967137#post2967137


I trashed the front of my car by mating it with a truck's trailer hitch. The most difficult part for me to find is going to be the hood. A brilliantrot hood in Michigan would be perfect. However If you are in the Midwest and have a hood, please contact me.

Other parts needed:

Right Fender
Right Grill
Upper radiator bracket with bushings.
And I am sure there will be more.

I have a nice tear in the "front panel" as well.  I am not sure it is feasible to replace:
FRONT PANEL   BASIS   1   09/1987      41131971102


If you have a brilliantrot parts car, I'll consider buying the whole thing.

Thanks!

2

Suspension / Manual steering rack - where to get?

« on: April 15, 2008, 07:24:53 PM »

I think a standard manual e30 rack might be slower than the power racks. Anyhow, e30 M3 and e36 M3 racks are faster.

3

Suspension / Manual steering rack - where to get?

« on: April 15, 2008, 07:15:30 PM »

Why are you looking to remove the power steering rack? One can simply plug the pressure and return ports and a power rack and achieve almost the same thing.

4

Photoshop, Media, & Artwork / Some footage from the track

« on: April 15, 2008, 05:40:53 AM »

I was planning on Gingerman for Saturday but the event was canceled. I suppose I should have went to Grattan.

5

Photoshop, Media, & Artwork / Some footage from the track

« on: April 14, 2008, 05:11:27 PM »

Was that this past weekend?

6

Engine + Driveline / "Bolts" on the exhaust manifold, what for?

« on: April 13, 2008, 03:53:59 PM »

I believe they are EGTs; they look like the correct size.

7

Engine + Driveline / Diff fill/drain allen nut 12 or 13 mm?

« on: April 11, 2008, 05:59:28 AM »

I think it is 10mm.

8

Engine + Driveline / Lightweight M52 hydraulic lifters

« on: April 04, 2008, 06:27:14 AM »

Here is a link that goes over the shim kit: http://m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=199411

The price is actually not that bad.

9

Engine + Driveline / Lightweight M52 hydraulic lifters

« on: April 04, 2008, 04:49:01 AM »

Interesting... i talked a half a year ago with my engine man an he said to me that the rev limit on the m42 engine was mostly given by the hydro lifters...!! so i am gonna trie the swap to solid ones on my brand new engine... do you think i can make solid lifters on my own? it doesnt look very complicated?!? some high quality steel...some cnc... some polishing... finished? or not??

Problem with solid lifters is sourcing the shims. Shim kits for such an application are very expensive; this leaves you to paying someone with a kit to do your shim work.

10

Engine + Driveline / What does the harmonic balancer do?

« on: April 02, 2008, 06:17:53 AM »

You can always run the VW lifters as well, they are considerably lighter that the BMW ones.

11

Engine + Driveline / Motor and Gearbox Mount Dimensions

« on: April 01, 2008, 04:27:41 PM »

Does anyone know in which direction these mounts are offset? Is it front to rear, or side to side?

12

Engine + Driveline / Strange engine noise, please help

« on: April 01, 2008, 02:21:59 PM »

You want the chain tensioner piston: 11311743187

13

Engine + Driveline / What does the harmonic balancer do?

« on: April 01, 2008, 02:15:13 PM »

The rev limit on most motors is dictated by the valve train, most significantly by the accelerations of the valve train mass which is dictated by the cam profile.The safest way to increase your rev limit is by keeping the ratio of rpm/(mass of (valve+spring+lifter)) greater than that of stock. A second way of safely increasing the rev limiter is by of course running stiffer valve springs.

14

Engine + Driveline / Are any of you using a "clutch stop" in the floor board?

« on: March 30, 2008, 08:13:49 AM »

You can source elevator bolts from McMaster-Carr.

About 5 years ago I was running one of these clutch stops with the impression that it would make me smoother driver. However, that was not the case; I have found that my shifting is much smother without the stop, and I would imagine faster and safer for downshifts. Reason being is that the time it takes for me to fully depress the clutch pedal and release it is the time required to rev match the engine for the next gear change. One can of course rev match with the modified clutch stop, but it requires one to pause for a moment with the clutch in, I found this hard to repeat. Without the stop, I simply press and release the pedal as fast as I can and the required time is just enough to rev match.

15

Engine + Driveline / Ticking Possibly in the Valve Train

« on: March 27, 2008, 04:47:17 AM »

I believe it is 050109309J,  I do not think the J is important though,  if you search this forum you will find another reference to that part number.