Messages

1

General Topics / What to do with this car? 91 318is

« on: March 09, 2009, 04:56:44 PM »

Thanks on both counts - I*C*V, I knew there was a difference (in the acronym, the part in question is exactly the same;).  

I wish I had the time to at least yank all the good parts off it, but I don't, and my neighbors would not appreciate a car on blocks in the driveway (garage is FULL, the 68 2002, motorcycles, etc).  

Maybe I should just advertise it for $500.  Well, if on local Craigslist, $750, anticipating the Way of The List of Craig.  



Iain

2

General Topics / What to do with this car? 91 318is

« on: March 09, 2009, 10:06:27 AM »

Hey all - I'm in a bit of a conundrum WRT my 91 318is.  I bought it about 5 years ago with 120k miles on the clock.  Roof paint was faded, driver's seat was worn, but otherwise, a fairly solid car.

Fast forward to today, it has 166k on it.  It was rear-ended about a year ago - right rear corner pushed in about 4".  Taillight did not break, doors open, trunk opens - relatively light impact, but combined with the other two issues it has, I'm pretty much done with it.  

The Bad:

- Body damage.  Still drives straight.
- Oil leak - from the front of the motor.  Thought it was the lower pan gasket, redid that, nope, that's not it.  Timing chain cover?  Upper pan gasket?  I don't know, but it is fairly significant - it needs attention.  Car has never shown the oil light, but if you drove it for 500-1000 miles without adding oil, I'm sure it would.
- Vacuum leak at idle.  I've done a fair bit of investigating on that one, I believe it to be the ISV.  Replaced intake gaskets, hoses, etc.  Car runs and drives fine, but at idle, it will display the CEL, which gives a code for "vacuum leak."  Forget which code, but basically, it has a vacuum leak.  Cleaning the ISV improved things a fair bit, but they degraded again.
- Driver's seat is wasted.  Bolster is badly worn, seats need recovering.
- Faded roof paint, but wetsand + wax brings it back.  
- No LSD.  Dammit.

The Good:

When I got it, I went through the car.  It has, within the last 46k miles:

- New timing chain, tensioner, guides, etc.
- New control arms
- New rear control arm bushings
- New tie rods
- New Bilstein Sports
- New upper strut mounts
- New rear shock mounts (although a slight clunk developed after the accident)
- New AFM (refurbished)
- New plugs
- New cam sensor
- New crank sensor
- New thermostat
- All fluids replaced with synthetics
- New rotors
- New pads
- New pad wear sensors
- New battery (less than a year ago)

It currently has nearly new Hankook studded snows on the OEM 14" wheels.

I'm still pretty angry about the accident - before the body damage, it was a respectable, clean, straight car, bomber reliable, all of the old-car issues had been dealt with, it is strong, handles well, cruises comfortably at 90+, gets great mileage (wife got 40mpg out of it driving the speed limit in Kansas, I averaged 32ish combined).

Fixing the body damage is semi out of the question for me.  I was going to put a new ISV (idle stabilization valve, that's the Audi acronym, I believe the M42 people call it something else) in it, fix the oil leak, drive it until it was done.  I figured it had another 40-50k in it.

I can't decide what to do with it.  I've looked for a 91 318 with a blown motor/clutch/etc, but have not found one.  I don't really have the time to get into that kind of swap-project, either.

I don't have time (realistically) to part it out.  

I guess this is more of a "what's it worth?" than "what should I do with it?" email.  It is in Morrison, CO (SW Denver).  I'd take $500 for it.  In some ways, it is worth a lot more.  In others, not as much.  

Anyone have an idea of what it is worth?  I know parting it would be the better answer, but that's just not realistic.  

Thoughts?



Iain

3

Engine management / Will The Stock ECU Adapt to ITB's?

« on: August 26, 2007, 09:50:06 PM »

I don't get why the car would care if the throttlebody/plenum manifold were replaced with ITBS which have a plenum.  

The MAF tells the motor how much air goes in, TPS is doing it's thing, O2/coolant/crank/cam sensors doing their thing.  

Would it likely be BETTER after optimizing the maps for the shorter runners?  Sure.  Would it run?  I can't think of why it'd NOT run - air in, fumes out, shrug, dunno.

The motor does not know if there are ITBs or a single tb/plenum - it'd change some dynamics at certain parts of the rev range, ehhhh, I think it'd work fine.



Iain

4

General Topics / OK, now what? What's it worth?

« on: August 24, 2007, 09:18:06 PM »

Thanks for all the replies!  Lots of "fix it" recommendations.  Hmmm.  I wholeheartedly agree with "better to fix what you have."

asdasdasd.  Dunno.  Maybe I'll take the rear bumper off this weekend, attach a chain and give it some expanding encouragement.  

Other appealing option - anyone know of a 91 is for sale in the CO area?  The "buy another, swap parts" idea is very appealing, as well.  



Iain

5

General Topics / OK, now what? What's it worth?

« on: August 24, 2007, 09:47:40 AM »

Parting is the last thing on my list, but if it goes there, Nomad, I'll give you first right of refusal!


Iain

6

General Topics / OK, now what? What's it worth?

« on: August 23, 2007, 08:59:40 PM »

I offically own my rearended 318is again (91).  Picture attached.  

What's it worth?  I bought it in 10/04 for $3500.  It had 119k on it, and the paint was much better then.  Now, it has 156k on it, regular oil changes (synthetic oil), air filter every 15k (just put one in).  

Since purchase, I have replaced:

- Timing chain/tensioner/all guides/water pump/thermostat/front main seal/all hoses.  That was a big one, right after I got the car.
- Mass airflow meter (~4 weeks ago)
- Battery (~4 weeks ago)
- Plugs and wires (plugs ~4 weeks ago, wires when I got it)
- Air filter (~4 weeks ago, 15k ago, etc)
- Fuel filter
- Control arms
- E36 "Q" bushings (rear control arm mounts, solid, more caster)
- Tie rod ends
- Struts - Bilstein Sports
- Shocks - Bilstein Sports
- Strut bearings, shock mounts
- Front rotors/pads, rear pads.  Both sensors.
- Changed all other fluids when I got the car, synthetic everywhere.
- Flowmaster Deltaflow 40 series (or is it a 50?) muffler.  Just the rear muffler, the stocker was rusty.
- Lower oil pan gasket (twice, when I got it to fix a leak, then ~4 weeks ago to check The Bolts.  All are tight).

I think that's it.  I fixed dash lights, this that and the other thing.  

The bad:

- Duh.  Some dork hit me.  
- Cracked rear spoiler on trunklid, no longer fully connected due to accident.
- Cracked windshield.  Pretty badly pitted anyway.
- Faded paint (although it did not look _bad_ before the accident, unless you looked closely).
- Typical Colorado rock chips - CO puts ROCKS on the road, calls it sand.  
- Driver's seat needs redoing, pretty badly. Still comfortable, but it needs addressed.
- Shift knob worn.
- Tires are pretty wasted.  Not corded, but they're due.
- Vacuum leak somewhere - if it idles for more than 10sec, the CEL comes on.  Slight rev of throttle, it goes off.  It does not do that if the A/C is on.  I have the intake gasket, just not gone in there to find it.  

I don't really know what to do next.  I could sell it outright.  I could buy a straight 318is, swap parts.  I _could_ part it out, but I'm REALLY averse to that - I don't have the time or space to do it (nor do I want to deal with a dead car in my driveway).  I could pull the bumper mount with a comealong, see what happens;).  

Aargh.  

Any insights?  What's this thing worth?  Naturally, right buyer, right price - someone with a good car, bad mechanicals would be great (then we'd have to figure out who buys and who sells:).  

Sucks.  I liked this car.  40mpg+ on the highway, was getting 32mpg around town, revved freeley, has great power, shrug, it is a colossal drag.




Iain

7

General Topics / Water pump bolt snapped.

« on: August 21, 2007, 05:39:32 PM »

My (unfortunately significant) experience with water pump housing bolts snapping (and _specifically_ water pump housing bolts) has led me to believe that you're likely to be able to spin it out with vise grips once you can grab it.  

It seems like corrosion builds up between the bolt and the housing, which grabs the bolt shaft tight - snap!  However, every time this has happened to me (6 or 7, at least), once I get the other bolts off and slide the housing off, the remaining bolt is A) sticking out pretty far - the head has always snapped off, not leaving it flush with the block/head and B) they come _right_ out.  Weird.

Now, if yours snapped off flush, uggh.  If it is going to a machine shop, yes, have them do it:).



Iain

8

General Topics / Grrrr - got rearended

« on: August 20, 2007, 06:51:44 PM »

$1500, $1300 if I keep the car.  Round numbers.  

Denied.

Sigh.  More as I know it.  



Iain

9

General Topics / Grrrr - got rearended

« on: August 20, 2007, 04:21:10 PM »

Oh, D. Clay, you shut up RIGHT NOW about Spec E30.

lalalalalala I CAN'T HEAR YOU!!!!


Iain (that's the last thing I need, but yes, it is a very, very good idea....

10

General Topics / Grrrr - got rearended

« on: August 20, 2007, 04:20:03 PM »

Thanks for the insight!  Very helpful.  

It seems that they're having trouble figuring out the fair market value of the car.  The guy who drove into the guy who got pushed into me has insurance through Allstate.  I had to drive the car to the inspectorplace, small 2-bay shop type thing.  The woman looked here and there, fed a bunch of numbers into the computer, and it is supposed to use a company - ADP? - that researches recent sales prices of the car in question in an effort to get FMV.  Two problems:

1. Not many of these get sold, and those that do range from $800 (clapped out) to $5k+.
2. It seems to me that a LOT of people who deal in cheaper used cars do the bill-of-sale trick to reduce taxes.  Sigh.

I'll certainly not take their first offer.  I don't really have the time to go all the way with it - lawyers and whatnot - there should be a happy medium.

We Shall See.  



Iain

11

General Topics / Grrrr - got rearended

« on: August 20, 2007, 09:42:15 AM »

OK, so I was driving home from work last week, after skipping the gym (this must be karma - I doubt I'll _ever_ skip the gym again).  Crested a slight hill, traffic was stopped, had to get on the brakes about 7/10 (if a normal stop is 4/10).  No skidding, no abs, the briefcase on the p-seat did not slide off, but more brake than I'd normally use Just Driving Along.  

Looked in the rearview - guy behind me is with it, he's stopping.  Whew.  Back off to thinking about Something Else.

Bam.  Guy behind guy behind me was not with it.  I'll post pictures.  

It hit the bumper on the right side, buckled out the wheel arch pretty badly.  Insurance company is leaning toward "total."  Those were the first words out of the inspector's mouth.  

In the ins-co's eyes, it is a 1991 BMW 318is, bald tires, 155k miles, torn driver's seat, fading paint, KBB value of $2200, assuming "good" condition.

The car is _not_ replaceable for $2200.  No way.  Since I've owned it, I've done the following:

Bilstein struts/shocks (sports)
Upper strut bearings/shock mounts
New control arms
New tie rod ends
New timing chain/front main seal/all guides/tensioner/water pump/thermostat
Crank and cam sensors
Reman AFM (2 weeks ago, grr)
Brakes - rotors/pads/sensors
Plugs/wires/tuneup junk
New rear muffler

+ all the stupid irritating stuff - replaced all bulbs in the dash, cleaned up wiring, dropped lower oil pan, made sure bolts were tight, fluid changes, all hoses, belts, etc etc etc.

IE, it is a pretty-to-very well sorted IS. Yeah, the paint was faded on the roof.  The seat is torn.  The tires need replacing (I could not believe she said that - my response was simple; "if the condition of the TIRES is an issue, I'll go home and put my snows on for you - bear in mind that the condition of my tires had nothing to do with the accident"), they're Yokohama AVS ES100s, been used in several driving schools (only the outside edges are bald;),  ehh.

Right now, the _only_ thing wrong with it (pre-accident) was a vacuum leak.  I have the intake manifold gasket and a pile of hoses - I'd just not gotten down and dirty to find it.  Good compression, no oil leaks, ran well, etc.

So, what do I do?  I'm going to fight them on the value either way - unless they come in with a number I feel is reasonable - I already warned her that I'd not be cooperative; she's very nice, she gets my point, no hard feelings toward _her_, but I'm not taking a loss because some jackass decided to use someone else's brakes.

I figure I have 2 basic options:

1. Take the check and buy another car
2. Take the check, buy back my car, find a cheap-but-straight 318is (E30), swap all the parts.

I don't like either one.  I know - "part it out!"  I -don't- have time for that (nor the space; my garage has a current racecar (1968 2002), a future racecar (Audi 80 quattro), the tow vehicle is at the shop getting a tranny (thankfully, looks like I might be adding ANOTHER car for a little while), plus wife's WRX wagon.  I'd love to part it out, but, well, no.  Not really an option.    I could buy the cheap-but-straight is, swap both directions (resulting in a car that runs/moves under it's own power), but I don't really have time for that, either.  

Aargh.  Just venting.  

I'll send pictures.  Anyone have any experience dealing with insurance companies on things like this?

Anyone in the Denverish area have a decent E30 318is for sale?  If I'm not going to swap parts, I'm probably going to get an E36 of some sort, but I hate to walk away from the considerable pile of nearly-new stuff I have on this one.


Iain

12

General Topics / Congrats, Arthur!

« on: August 20, 2007, 08:36:47 AM »

.052 seconds out of first @ Packwood - good job!



Iain

13

Engine + Driveline / 92 318 intake manifold - want to get rid of it

« on: August 04, 2007, 02:55:19 PM »

What Christoph said.  I don't like the flappers, either, but they're not the problem they seem like they should be.

BMW does a pretty good job with their intakes; you could likely improve upon what's there, but you need to have a better reason than "it looks like it sucks."  

If you want better top end, you could probably improve on the stock M42 manifold with individual throttle bodies (while losing low end).  

Shrug, Christoph nailed it.  Want more torque?  Get an E36 M3:).



Iain

14

Engine + Driveline / Flowmaster video

« on: August 04, 2007, 08:46:40 AM »

What's the main criteria for most of you when selecting exhausts - sound or performance?  

Just curious.  Flowmasters have a very distinct sound - very metallic, almost "snappy," at least for the non-Deltaflow mufflers.  

I have a 40 or 50 series Deltaflow on my 318is, in addition to the OEM resonator and cat (the muffler that was on the car - original, I believe - was rotting out, had the Deltaflow lying around, etc).  It is quiet, sounds decent, I guess, but it does not have the "classic" Flowmaster sound - the tincan snap is there, but damped a fair amount.  

I guess the reason I ask is because Flowmasters and Magnaflows are SO completely different muffler technologies, it seems like sound is the #1 criteria.  

A Magnaflow (or Dynomax Ultraflow - those are very good, they tend to be quieter than Magnaflows, for some reason, all else equal), but they're a more traditional perforated tube with packing around it.

A Flowmaster uses chambers and natural pulses to create low pressure within the exhaust, helping (allegedly) scavenge exhaust gases, thereby increasing efficiency.

Does it work?  Dunno.  On paper, absolutely.  I've never dynotested a Magnaflow (or Brand X) back to back with the Flowmaster, should do that, hmmm.  I like the concept - reversion is real, and a Flowmaster does seem to combat reversion.  

I also think they sound cool on 4 cylinder cars.   Absolutely not for everyone  - they sound different.  Shrug, I like them.  

So, just curious - is it all about sound, or performance, too?



Iain(no wrong answer, I suspect a Magnaflow and Flowmaster are going to dyno within tenths of one another)

15

Engine + Driveline / 92 318 intake manifold - want to get rid of it

« on: August 02, 2007, 10:17:10 PM »

What's wrong with it?  I've not measured port diameters or runner length on this motor, but IME, the Germans do a pretty good job of making an intake manifold for their motors.

What do you want it to do differently?  Runner length and diameter are the two easy things to change - longer runners typically equal more torque, short runners emphasize top end.  

Tuning an intake manifold is tricky business.  Many of the ITB setups I've seen LOOK neat, but they're too short - if the benefits of the shorter runners happen at an RPM well beyond what the cams can support, well.....


Iain (ITBs are not necessarily better than a plenum with a throttle body, FWIW - look at the Honda S2000 motor, huge specific output - with a plenum and TB)