Messages

1

WTB/WTT / Shadowline

« on: March 02, 2013, 12:29:44 PM »

Looking for OEM shadowline trim pieces A and B.  Maybe I'll get lucky and someone is parting a car in the NJ area?  The only way I could think to ship these is sandwiched between a long piece of cardboard/wood veneer or something and hope they don't bend them in transit.

Thanks in advance.

2

For Sale / FS: Complete M42 drivetrain [NJ]

« on: January 09, 2012, 02:33:03 PM »

Driveshaft and diff are pending.  Exhaust, wiring harness, and ECU are all that's left.

3

For Sale / FS: Complete M42 drivetrain [NJ]

« on: January 06, 2012, 02:26:02 PM »

Sent PM.

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For Sale / FS: Complete M42 drivetrain [NJ]

« on: January 05, 2012, 03:46:06 PM »

Sent PM, Geoff.

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For Sale / FS: Complete M42 drivetrain [NJ]

« on: January 05, 2012, 01:28:16 PM »

Motor and trans officially sold.  Still have the diff with poly AKG 75D bushing, 7k mile driveshaft, exhaust minus headers, and wiring harness.

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For Sale / FS: Complete M42 drivetrain [NJ]

« on: November 21, 2011, 05:27:53 PM »

Sent PM, Jay.

The motor is currently still in the car.

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For Sale / FS: Complete M42 drivetrain [NJ]

« on: November 20, 2011, 10:59:25 AM »

Yes, sir, still available.

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For Sale / FS: Complete M42 drivetrain [NJ]

« on: November 09, 2011, 01:52:23 PM »

Sorry, would like to keep it all as a package for now.

9

For Sale / FS: Complete M42 drivetrain [NJ]

« on: November 09, 2011, 10:41:05 AM »

Hey guys, looking to sell the M42 drivetrain because I'll be swapping in my s52 very shortly.

This is a solid, running M42 drivetrain with 143k miles. I completed "the mess under the intake" last summer and also installed a new intake boot and new crank position sensor. The motor is completely stock. It could use valve cover and profile gaskets.

Includes G240 with same miles, a rebuilt Portland Driveline driveshaft (installed at 137k miles and has greasable u-joints) and the stock 4.10 LSD. The engine wiring haness, ECU, and exhaust will also be included.

I would love for any interested parties to come drive the car before I pull the motor for the swap.

I am Located in Hunterdon County, NJ.

$1000

10

Engine + Driveline / Stored car for winter, now it runs terribly

« on: March 24, 2011, 08:19:08 PM »

Figured it out...feel like an idiot.

The intake boot has two open bungs on the bottom, one for the ICV vacuum line and the other isn't used on our cars.  Not even realizing (and assuming it was plugged from the factory) I put on the intake boot with the open hole on the bottom.  After I finally realized, I grabbed the old boot from the bottom and sure enough there was a plug pressed in there.  Popped it in the new boot and all is well.

11

Engine + Driveline / Stored car for winter, now it runs terribly

« on: March 23, 2011, 11:06:13 PM »

So I put my car away at the beginning of January outside under a car cover until this past weekend.  The car was running great when I put it away.  Fast forward to this weekend when I tried to start it up.  It ran like shit; searching for idle and stalling out.

I was completely surprised because I wasn't expecting this at all.  Looking over things I noticed my intake boot was torn in multiple places very badly.  Okay, so it was a massive vacuum leak.  I ordered a new intake boot from Blunt (which arrived the NEXT day, thanks Blunt!!) installed it and thought for sure it would fix the problem.  It didn't.  WTF?!?

Stomp test indicated 1215;

MAF Fault: The mass air flow sensor measures the  amount of air that is currently being drawn into the engine.  A big hole  in one of your fuel injection intake boots may cause the car to stall  and generate this code.

Alright, so I thought I fixed this with the new intake boot...so I swapped in a spare AFM I had laying around.  No dice.

I'm kind of at a loss here.  For some background, this past summer I replaced the fuel pump with a TRE 255 LPH, new fuel filter, new CPS, cleaned the ICV, and completed the "mess under the intake".  So I honestly have no idea what the deal is here.

Any help, suggestions, or ideas are much appreciated.  Thanks, guys.

12

Member Profiles / Gooch

« on: November 02, 2010, 10:42:13 AM »

So for reference, mind telling us what you bought it for?

Shoot me a PM if you'd like.

I think you missed my point.  I'm absolutely all for reincarnating a wrecked car's motor into another machine, but the 318is is so very rare these days- especially ones in the condition you have brought yours to.

I know it's a slippery slope what with the 5 lug conversion and the like and just how "correct" one should keep a car.  I also know based on what I've seen, you are a good wrench and do great work.  But, it is a little different when you do a heart transplant and completely change the characteristics of a car (I'm speaking primarily chassis).  Also, the M42 is becoming a pretty rare motor these days, so I guess my point is why not do it to a 325i instead?  The 318is was only offered 1 year in the states and the M20 powered cars for about a millennium, and the chassis wouldn't be that different with a monster motor like that in a 325i.  Just my $.02.  I'm sure it will turn out great, but I'm just a little sad to see yet another M42 tossed aside.  (And to be selfish, if I was still in the states as I'd probably look to buy yours )

In terms of the M3, well I have to say I really don't have an opinion.  I know I'll be thought of as crazy, but the E30 M3 does not appeal to me.  I've driven them in anger and they were no quicker (stock) than one of my 325is'.  The reasons I got into E30s are that they are dirt cheap, economical, reliable, cool, and had a lot of toys OEM and aftermarket.  The E30 M3 fills none of these except aftermarket.  $20k into a car just for a high strung and (relatively) unreliable motor and a body kit doesn't really fit that need.  I'll spend a few grand more and get an E46 or a few grand less and get a legitimately nice car in an E34 M5.



OK, thanks for the info as I know wiring one in would be a bear.  I think I'm actually going to mount a GPS up there in mine...

When I set out to buy the car all I was looking for was a clean car that was free of rust.  After months and months of searching, this car fit the bill perfectly. I don't think that the 318is is rare car, but finding a nice example is extremely hard.

The M42 is a great engine, I love the car and the whole feel of the light four cylinder and it's rev happy nature, but flat out it is just not powerful enough.  I can't stand the car not having any torque and having to rev the shit out of it to get it up to speed.  The car is my DD and I will gladly sacrifice a little more weight in the front for the extra HP/TQ that it desperately needs.

I'm interested to see how the GPS install works out.

LTS, making friends everywhere!  (Fwiw, I do agree that it's a bummer you're swapping out the M42.  If the engine was shot like JackBenny's was . . .)


Gooch, that is a CLEAN car and looks beautiful.  I'm not sure I've seen many other e30's that are that clean.  Mine's getting there.


When you do the swap, do me a favor and send your M42 my way.  If it's as clean as the rest of the car it'll be in great condition and I can swap it into my car while I rebuild mine!

I'll keep you in mind, M42club and NJ BMW CCA will be the first two places I post up the drivetrain when the time comes.


Thanks for the compliments, guys.

13

Member Profiles / Gooch

« on: November 01, 2010, 10:25:04 PM »

Looks good to me, feel free to post any BMW car porn here!

How's the weight with the bigger engine?  Noticeable or not so much?  I was considering the 5-lug swap myself.  I'll have to check your thread out on r3v.

The s52 it will go in the car over summer, I'll report back then.

You are a tool.  Why do people ruin such nice cars?  Why not put a motor like that in one that is not so rare or already sorted?  Sorry to jump on you, but I am sick and tired of cars getting swapped like this.  And based on what I've seen, you know what you're doing, so it is extra frustrating.

Why not get another shell that doesn't matter and do it to that one?  You will ruin the wonderful handling and balance and get utter crap fuel mileage comparatively.

I do have a productive question, though;  did you actually wire up the check panel or is it for looks?

You'd fit right in with the E30 M3 purists...god forbid anyone takes an s14 out of an M3.

The check panel is not wired in, it came free with my headlights, grilles, and plate filler and I was sick of seeing the SRS light flash because of my Mtech 2 wheel.

14

General Topics / The mess under the intake

« on: October 20, 2010, 09:55:03 PM »

Hey guys, I just did this over summer, and wrote the following up for a friend who is about to tackle "the mess under the intake".  I wish I took pictures to help document, but sadly I did not.

I got rid of the throttle body heating plates, so if you're looking to do the same, this is what you need to do:

11531714738 - coolant pipe from block
11531709157 - o-ring for pipe
13541743261 - throttle body gasket
11611717761 - upper/lower intake gasket
11611734684 - lower intake/block gasket
11531709052 - lower rad hose
64211386691 - coolant hose
13411721971 - vacuum hose from intake to ICV
13411721972 - vacuum hose from ICV to intake boot (lengthened with plastic/brass barbed fittings)
11151717858 - valve cover to throttle body (lengthend with plastic/brass barbed fittings)

Reuse a bunch of the plastic couplers, reducers, etc from the mess, you'll have a bunch extra from a lot of the stuff you'll be throwing away.

Brass barb fittings (http://www.plumbingsupply.com/barb.html)...I forget exactly what you need but with the intake off you'll be able to figure it out, you're gonna want a bunch of 1/2" splicers, a few reducers, and a 90 degree reducer, that you make out of a barb x fips and a 90 degree elbow barb x mips.  You want to use the reduceres and splicers to change between different size hoses, and also to space out like 5-6" of hose so that it doesn't collapse under vacuum.

Obviously you're going to need some  hose clamps, coolant (heater) hose, and vacuum hose for the brake booster if you mess yours up like I did.  I got the vacuum hose from rockauto (Gates part number 27230).

I did not replace the 2-3" of fuel lines between the hard lines because they looked alright.  But if you want to replace them, then you need to add some 5/16" fuel injection hose to your parts list.

Like I said before it's fairly obvious with the intake off what you need depending on what you want to do.

It is definitely way easier to use the OEM lines for the ICV to intake and valve cover to throttle body and extending them with the barbed fittings rather than using regular heater hose or vacuum hose because they have the correct bends.  Trust me I tried using regular hose and it didn't work very well.

Good luck!!!

15

Member Profiles / Gooch

« on: October 20, 2010, 09:29:21 PM »

Haha, thanks Vladi.  I finally got the centercap tool, so I put the caps on.  The wheels look 100x better with caps.  I don't know how or why, but they do.

And once again, sorry I haven't been on here in quite some time, but I'm sorry to post this here...many of you are not going to be happy...