Messages

1

For Sale / FS: 1992 BMW 318ic Convertible NY/NJ/CT

« on: July 12, 2011, 05:52:09 PM »

still for sale

2

For Sale / FS: 1992 BMW 318ic Convertible NY/NJ/CT

« on: June 01, 2011, 10:27:03 AM »

^^^

3

For Sale / FS: 1992 BMW 318ic Convertible NY/NJ/CT

« on: May 16, 2011, 06:02:19 PM »

1992 BMW 318ic
2-door Convertible / Cabrio / Vert
e30 Model
144,000 original miles
2nd owner
Vin # WBABA7310NEJ13943
Located in Pelham Parkway in the Bronx
 
$ 5,700.00
5 speed manual transmission
VERY CLEAN interior
PERFECT CAR for the season...
Purchased this car 2 years ago with 134,000 miles. I have only driven it for only approximately 10,000 miles within this period. This car has been parked in an indoor garage under my ownership. The toy car has to go because we just had a baby and want to replace this with a wagon.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Parts replaced / installed within 8,000 miles:
- MarkD chip
- New Front & Rear Bilstein Touring shocks with M3 springs
- New OEM Front and Rear shock mounts
- New 15 mm drop hats
- New Ignition Coil, Coil Over Plug kit
- New OEM control arms
- New OEM tie rods
- New OEM M3 control arm bushings
- New front and rear Axxis PBR Metal Master Brakes
- New A/C blower resistor pack
- New aftermarket fog light lenses
- NEW HID low beam
- NEW HID yellow fog lights
- New OEM front IS lip
- New water and vacuum hoses (replaced 500 miles ago)
- New Belts (AC, Alternator, Fan) (replaced 500 miles ago)
- New OEM Themrostat (replaced 500 miles ago)
- New OEM Waterpump (replaced 500 miles ago)
- New Leather shift and ebrake boot
- New antenna mast
- New K&N air filter
- New REAR Plastic Window
- New OEM Euro Bumper trim
- New valve cover & intake manifold gaskets
- New Bosch Battery
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
New Parts NOT installed included in sale:
- NGK (BMW) Sparkplugs
- Timing chain tensioner
- Fuel filter
- Crankshaft position sensor
- Camshaft position sensor
- Throttle position sensor
- Throttle cable
- Coolant Temp Sensor
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Other information:
- A/C and heat works 100%
- Powder coated valve and intake manifold covers
- 3rd brake light deleted. Original trunk lid will be included in sale
- Alpine headunit with amber lights and ipod connector
- 10" Infinity Basslink Subwoofer and front component speaker with 2CH amp
- Ronal 15x7.5 et 22 after 15m spacer installed (et 37 without spacers)
- Tire threads still at 80% but with little uneven wear so it shakes a little at high speed.
- Rust in the rocker panel (both sides) and rear valance were grinded down, treated and fixed
- Front passenger side fender is DOT-R (replaced)
- Clutch is a little weak may need replacement but still driveable
- Small crack on rear bumper
 
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

4

WTB/WTT / WTB 19# 4 pintle mustang injectors for m42

« on: April 06, 2011, 12:08:02 PM »

Anybody has 19# 4 pintle mustang injectors for m42?
 
Or at least provide a link and part number where I can buy?
 
Thanks.

5

Engine + Driveline / What hose goes here?

« on: April 04, 2011, 03:47:24 PM »

Here's a btter illustration...

6

General Topics / Help, No start after performing maintenance.

« on: April 01, 2011, 12:22:34 PM »

Coolant temp sensor wouldn't kill the motor.
 
I'd verify that your fuel lines are correct. The relays you should check are the three on the firewall. They're for the O2 heater, the fuel pump and the main power. Do you get a check engine light? If that lights while you're turning the car on, the DME is getting power.
 
I'd suspect the DME is being wonky & not priming the fuel system. Typically that's from the crank sensor not sending a clean signal. Is the gap on the sensor OK? Resistance readings in spec? 680 ohms IIRC.

Check Engine Light works fine. Stomp test comes back with 1444.
 
Fuel lines are correct because the only fuel hose i replaced are the 2 short (3" long) hoses which in no way I can swap or criss-cross. When I replaced these 2 short hoses, and replaced the injcetors with the re-serviced one, the fuel rail was emptied with fuel during the process.  Then installed everything back together to start the car which failed.  I then removed the fuel rail to check, and there is fuel, meaning fuel pump worked to push fuel into the rail.
 
How do I check the 3 relays in the firewall with a volt meter?
 
Also, if all 3 relays are good, what else should I check?
 
Thanks.

7

General Topics / Help, No start after performing maintenance.

« on: March 31, 2011, 10:55:35 AM »

My m42 (140,000 miles) was running perfect since I parked it last year November. I then started fixing the mess under the intake and while I was in there, I had the fuel injectors reserviced. Also, while in there, I replaced all 3 belts, thermostat, thermostat housing and water pump, cleaned the ICV and throttle body.  So after putting everything back together, I turn on the ignition with engine off and started putting coolant slowly with the heat set to the highest to prepare bleeding the coolant system. When I tried to start the car, it just cranks and would not start.
 
I then replaced the battery, the crank position sensor, cam position sensor even though the volt-meter reading was good. I also removed the intake manifold again to check on the fuel rail and there's fuel.  I also reseated the fuel injectors (it has new o-rings), also replaced the plugs.  When I removed the old plugs it was dry and not sure if fuel is reaching the combustion chamber. Also checked the fuses and they are all good, but not the relays. Dont know how and which relays to check.
 
Also, while doing the mess under the intake, there are 2 sensors by the engine block for the coolant, I dont think I messed up those 2 connections because 1 has 2 pins, the other has 1.  But bentley said another reason for a no start is a failed coolant sensor? Is this correct?  I havent tested those 2 sensors with a volt-meter.
 
Since the car was running perfect before performing these said preventive maintenance, Anything specific I should check that I could have messed up while performing any of the above procedures?
 
Appreciate any help.

8

General Topics / Part number help please...

« on: March 04, 2011, 11:40:27 AM »

Could somebody please help me finding the part number for this hose for the M42 engine? Thanks.

9

How-To's / Zoso's Thermostat Replacement

« on: March 04, 2011, 07:17:45 AM »

It'd be pretty obvious, a small hole punched in the thermo flange outside the main valve opening.  The jiggle valve has a very small brass tube punched through the flange and crimped loosely around a small bearing.  I don't think most thermo makers use on for the M42 (shame too, they make bleeding a bit easier), just mentioned it in case it did.

this is what my thermostat looks like, is it supposed to be installed in a specific manner? There is no arrow whic is the top or to be placed in 12'o'clock position.

10

General Topics / The mess under the intake

« on: March 03, 2011, 05:10:27 PM »

To summarize the mess under the intake, could somebody please verify if this is correct?
 
The blue dots will be "capped off".
The blue lines will be the new hoses to replace the mess
 

11

General Topics / changing coolant hoses writeup

« on: March 03, 2011, 02:34:11 PM »

Thank you.  Would you know where is the other hose on "90 degrees elbow" connected? The hose that goes underneath the intake manifold?  Realoeam doesn't show a clear picture where it is connected.  Thanks.
 

I got lucky and found you a "before" shot. If you draw a line (on your picture) from the yellow #2 to the yellow #1 you will see the opening of the hose that #2 connects too. Should be a plastic 90 there. #1 goes down to the Check valve on the Carbon Canister.
 

12

General Topics / The mess under the intake

« on: March 03, 2011, 12:02:43 PM »

can somebody please verify which is better:
 
Capping off the water outlet or put a bypass hose?  Thanks
 

 
or this?
 

13

General Topics / changing coolant hoses writeup

« on: March 03, 2011, 11:13:14 AM »

Sorry to bump an old thread. Can somebody please help me pointing where the other end of these 2 hoses are connected? A picture would be great.  Please note I did not do the mess under the intake thing. Thanks.
 

14

How-To's / Zoso's Thermostat Replacement

« on: March 02, 2011, 10:34:48 AM »

It'd be pretty obvious, a small hole punched in the thermo flange outside the main valve opening. The jiggle valve has a very small brass tube punched through the flange and crimped loosely around a small bearing. I don't think most thermo makers use on for the M42 (shame too, they make bleeding a bit easier), just mentioned it in case it did.

Thanks.  I will check my thermostat tonight.

15

How-To's / Zoso's Thermostat Replacement

« on: March 02, 2011, 09:21:22 AM »

If it has a bleed hole or jiggle valve, that end is up. Otherwise it makes no difference.

Thank you.  Do you have a pic of what a bleed hole or jiggle valve looks like?