Messages

1

WTB/WTT / WTB M42 Timing Case

« on: March 17, 2013, 03:52:24 PM »

I need one like woah, and I don't want to pay big bucks or wait for a brand new one from Germany. It's got to be serviceable without major erosion to the coolant port. Bonus points if you can include the bolts for it. If you can help me out, shoot me a text at 21O.445.6438.

2

General Topics / Insurance reduction?

« on: July 24, 2012, 07:55:32 PM »

My convertible has ABS and Airbags. It seems to me it's standard on all the models.

3

General Topics / Voltage Issue causing no-start?

« on: July 20, 2012, 07:54:54 PM »

Hi, I've been slogging through fixing my E30 318iC that won't start for nearly 4 months now, long story short it seems like it fires for a few revolutions when i start it, but then dies, and if I try to start it again it just cranks with no fire.

I've checked:
Spark plugs/ignition wires, all are sparking.
Fuel pump, 40PSI at the rail, fuel lines aren't switched.
Checked for vacuum leaks
Ordered new ICV, tested to work, 10ohms resistance getting 12v from battery
Checked Timing (correct, though I'm getting paranoid and feel like i need to check it again)

So I've been checking the wiring lately to see if maybe there's a short or break in one of the wires that grounds to the ECU, and I found that there's about .85 volts coming BACKWARDS from the ABS Hydraulic Unit into splice 122, as pictured in this diagram:


The .85 volts is only present when the ignition is in Position 2 (Run), so I was only able to see it with the main relay disabled.

This ISN'T normal, is it? Could this be interfering with my other injection electrics or messing with the ECU signals to cause a no-start?