Messages (Become)

Finally found the culprit!

These extra relays are located beside the accessory connector and control the interior, parking and head lights. I've gone ahead and removed them, now all I have to do is duplicate the US wiring circuit and use the US headlight switch I previously bought.

Can't wait to have control over my lighting and not burn through bulbs. Just gotta remember to shut them off when I park, a slight burden to have such powers. lol

The fan blades require space in front to quietly and effectively move air. By flush mounting its only going to cool the center of the radiator and run much longer.

You need to fabricate a slim (3/4 to 1 inch deep) aluminum shroud to mount the fan, any machine shop should be able to do this if you give them the measurements. I can't find the link but a few companies build this for e36.

http://www.hk5motors.com/index.php/engine/radiator/radiator-fans/1992-1999-bmw-e36-3-series-16-bolt-on-aluminum-radiator-fan-shroud.html

If only it was a 2 door... best luck.

I only have experience with the Valeo kit (it's not actually lighter, it's just single mass).

The additional noise is definitely noticeable. Especially 1st and 2nd gear or with the clutch in at a drive through. I wouldn't suggest doing this if you admire refinement in your BMW.

Installed mine about 10 years ago so it's possible things have changed? www.dtmfiberwerkz.com seems to carry the most variety of e30 kits but I have no personal experience with their products.

Sorry to say but none of these kit's are going to be a simple spray and bolt on procedure. If you're a perfectionist like me there is always modifications needed. Like around the wheel well, turn and fog light, door cards if you chose to instal them, running boards need a mounting point, just to name a few, and then you have sanding and filling any waves or imperfections in the gel coat. It's going to cost you time or money to have good results. Personally I love the look of the Mtech II but I don't think I would ever fit one again, after about 7 years signs of panel rust and some of the seams have come apart. By the way I spent over $5000 at the body shop! I'm currently the process of re-fitting the entire kit starting with the front bumper and valance... considering replacing the fenders and doors depending on how they look under the fiberglass. Did some of the repair work myself and still finding itchy fiberglass bits in my clothes, it's an absolute nightmare to work with this material!

There are a few things you can do like euro bumper strips, front lip spoiler and side skirts that tidy up the e30 body nicely. That's just my advise based on my bitter sweet experiences. 

I'm not sure about the e28m30 engine mounts but I tried 11811129286 from the e30m10 as per someones recommendation, they look very similar to each other. Well, I wasn't happy with the construction or the way they fit so I ordered in a new pair of original BMW motor mounts. I can't see any reason to try and upgrade here, the engine is very secure but insulated.

I do recommend the e21m10 transmission mounts 23711175424. They are an upgrade in bolt size and dampening, as a bonus you can add AKG top hats for added rigidity. With poly or aluminum transmission mounts I would be concerned about the carrier bracket ripping out of the underside of the car.

Did this all last summer, It was fairly easy. e21 mounts in combination with new motor mounts should improve shifting and engine response if they are due for replacement.

•   5/8” Coolant Hose - sold by the foot (Get 2 Feet) you may need a 90 degree coupler for the custom bypass.
•   5/16” Fuel Hose (Make sure it is fuel INJECTION hose, not fuel hose for a carb) - Sold by the foot (get 3+ feet)
•   19/32” Vacuum Hose sold by the foot (get 2-3 feet)

Taking pictures is a must. I somehow managed to mix up the fuel lines and the heater core hoses. LOL

• To bypass the throttle body heater I would highly recommend using this hose from BMW, it fits perfect once you cut it to length. PN is 11531247398
• Might as well get 10 feet of fuel injector hose while you're at the store, it's likely the line from your pump to the fuel filter is in equal condition to the lines under the hood.
• 19/32 or 15mm vacuum hose is hard to find, If you buy 1/2 inch then make sure it allows enough stretch to fit over the 15mm fittings on your valve cover and ICV.

One big question and then some pictures. 
The rubber grommet that connects into the main vacuum, has anyone replaced that? 
It just seems a little loose and old. 
I'm going though realoem now, see if I can make it out.  Will be something I tackle at the end.  Its easy to get to later.

I replaced the entire assembly, last thing you want is a vacuum leak or unexpected loss of brake assistance.

Any 12-13mm ID (1/2 inch x 12) vacuum hose should work, I used 300psi industrial hose for added confidence but the part number is 34331115926. It's also a good time to replace the check valve, PN is 34331156703 or 34331154581. Plastic elbow PN is 34331158930 and brake booster grommet 4331158929 is currently on sale at ECS.

thank you for the reply.

i am actually curious how crank sensor can cause this power loss... care to explain how?

my friend tested today and there're signs of misfirings too. i will get a crank sensor to try it. thank you once again.

selespeed

You should test the sensor first like DesktopDave recommended, it's too expensive to just swap out on a hunch.

I'm not exactly sure why but I couldn't run above 3000 rpm. My mechanic and I went over the whole engine and noticed one side of the sensor was dented in.