Well a lot has happened since my last post. I've installed 24lb Volvo injectors since no matter how much 'fuel' I added above 4K it still seemed to need more- granted this was butt-dyno since I have no afr's. The 24 lb injectors run perfectly and I can make them too rich up top if I wanted to. Mission accomplished. I've since put a stock late M42 cam back in and passed CA smog. Apparently he didn't noticed the difference between and MAF and AFM. 
I'm really liking the stock cam. Prob going to leave it in since, as a daily, torque is king. I do want an early cam tho. Should be a good compromise. 
On a separate note: a buddy with a cammed 2.7i stroker m20 drove my car and felt that it is every bit as strong as his car, at least from 4K up. Both cars with a 3.73 axle. It just confirmed that it was all worth it. 
After reading up on ethanol blends, I started adding 3 gal of e85 to every tank of 91 octane CA shit gas. It works out to around 94 octane and my engine loves it. If you have high compression or boost, give it a try, since it appears to not affect the mixture at all. I found no noticeable fuel trim change before and after. 
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		I'd like to add that my flywheel ($40), + m20 starter ($20) + lightening ($100) + surfacing ($75)and balance ($portion of overall balance) cost more than $219!! If only this were available when I was sourcing one.  
				
				
Just to let everyone know, Barrie at Midnight Tuning is running a GB on chips or flashes (depending on your needs). More info is over at 318ti.org. I have no affiliation with either, just thought I'd pass it along, and I don't even know if the deal would apply if you're not on 318ti. Its worth a shot I suppose. 
				
				I'd be lying if I said I was happy with how my engine ran after I installed it. Sure it felt like I maybe picked up 15 to 20 hp (over a tired m42). But it just felt like it was struggling. UNTIL NOW!!!  As sceptical as I was about a piggyback fuel controller I was running out of options and didn't want to do any damage to my build so I pulled the trigger on a used SAFCII from eBay. Risky, I know. For the few, if any, here with an M44, cut the &$))&:@&$:$;$: grey and blue wire from the MAF sensor for the control. It's NOT the ground. Now the best part: I added around 7% more fuel from 3k up, and well it's a whole new animal. I will get a video soon on my IG account with a 3.64 rear axle and 65mph in 2nd gear pull. My gearing is sooo tall, but it doesn't seem to matter. It pulls so hard without bogging at 4K after that upshift. I literally have driven it 10  minutes but had to post the good news. 
				
				Try dialling up the vaf.If only I had one.
Makes me wonder how many of us came from the Datsun/Nissan community?
I had a couple of Silvias myself...an '87 200SX XE hatchback with a nice CA18E. I had planned on building up a Gazelle RS once upon a time (before the whole "JDM" thing caught on, LOL), but I ended up buying a '97 240SX XE Kouki instead. The KA24DE wasn't as bad as everyone says it is. Tough, great torque but a bit asthmatic.
I bought the wife a few Sentra wagons over the years too. When the family arrived we ended up with a '96 Quest (VG30E). My In-laws owned a bunch - '81 Stanza, '86 Maxima and the delightful '91 Sentra SE-R (CA20DE).
I still keep an eye out for the occasional 200SX turbo or the rare SE/V6. Neither are nearly as good all-rounders as our little BMWs, but they're fun and very tossable little cars with great potential.
I don't know why but I got a soft spot for ghe 200sx also. The vg30 was just a slug, unless it was turbo'd. I spent a ton of money on my 2nd 510 to get just about 200 to the wheels.
JDM was was ruined by punk kids. My old buddy's 510 with an fj20det was clean and stupid fast back in the late 80's. My 2.3L 510 could pull on a 5.0 mustang when I ran race gas (i left the 1600 valve cover on it). We were just geaheads that weren't keen on building another american v8 thst handled like a pig.
And don't get me started on why I love the gtv6 and Milanos. Damn Alfas.
I don't have a lot of time ATM but: I'm running full DME 5.2 with EWS and chip. NOT a simple swap. 
Using all m44 accessories inclu a/c compressor - all e30 lines work with some creativity. And yes the dipstick required some massaging.
M42 head allows for the 5.2 coolant sensor and I swapped the e30 sensor for the gauge.
I will update my build thread eventually.
				
				Using all m44 accessories inclu a/c compressor - all e30 lines work with some creativity. And yes the dipstick required some massaging.
M42 head allows for the 5.2 coolant sensor and I swapped the e30 sensor for the gauge.
I will update my build thread eventually.
I got this one.
Cam sensor: if you are running a 91 ecu, use the m42 front timing cover and sensor, they will bolt right up to your m44 head. You will need to run your m42 exh cam sprocket for the magnetic timing pin. I know the opposite of this works for sure- m42 head, m44 cover, sensor and intake sprocket - but you should be ok with the above. I do know the tensioner port has a hole for the front cover (don't know why) but make sure it seals up or your chain will rattle.
Crank sensor: The m44 sensor "should" work. By eye, the gap in teeth of the crank wheel and damper wheels are timed the same. It will not plug in to the early loom. You will need to make a pigtail that mates the sensor to the loom. The other option, if this doesn't work, is to use the m42 sensor and make a bracket at the pulley. Or come up with a late m42 timing cover.
There is no need to change anything in your c101 sine the loom is unchanged.
The temp sensor in the m44 head is a dual temp sensor. Dme 5.2 uses half, the e36 cluster uses the other. You might be able to use the one sensor for both your needs but I don't know the resistance tables to see if that is an option.
Since you're doing something a little different than I have, hopefully this is actually helpful to you.
				
				Cam sensor: if you are running a 91 ecu, use the m42 front timing cover and sensor, they will bolt right up to your m44 head. You will need to run your m42 exh cam sprocket for the magnetic timing pin. I know the opposite of this works for sure- m42 head, m44 cover, sensor and intake sprocket - but you should be ok with the above. I do know the tensioner port has a hole for the front cover (don't know why) but make sure it seals up or your chain will rattle.
Crank sensor: The m44 sensor "should" work. By eye, the gap in teeth of the crank wheel and damper wheels are timed the same. It will not plug in to the early loom. You will need to make a pigtail that mates the sensor to the loom. The other option, if this doesn't work, is to use the m42 sensor and make a bracket at the pulley. Or come up with a late m42 timing cover.
There is no need to change anything in your c101 sine the loom is unchanged.
The temp sensor in the m44 head is a dual temp sensor. Dme 5.2 uses half, the e36 cluster uses the other. You might be able to use the one sensor for both your needs but I don't know the resistance tables to see if that is an option.
Since you're doing something a little different than I have, hopefully this is actually helpful to you.
1) You will need a harness from an M42 car, since many of the sensors are different, ie. cam, crank, temp
2) You can't run a MAF on a stock M42 system, - you would need EVERYTHING from the donor car to make that work.
3) IIRC there is only one coolant temp hole on the M44 head - with a 4-prong sensor. My late M42 head had 2 separate sensors. I don't know if the 4 prong sensor is compatible with the M42 or instrument cluster.
4) M44 uses a one-piece coil pack, cant comment on the M42.
5) As long as the M42 IAC valve is on the throttle body like the M44, I see no reason why that wouldn't work.
HTH
				
				2) You can't run a MAF on a stock M42 system, - you would need EVERYTHING from the donor car to make that work.
3) IIRC there is only one coolant temp hole on the M44 head - with a 4-prong sensor. My late M42 head had 2 separate sensors. I don't know if the 4 prong sensor is compatible with the M42 or instrument cluster.
4) M44 uses a one-piece coil pack, cant comment on the M42.
5) As long as the M42 IAC valve is on the throttle body like the M44, I see no reason why that wouldn't work.
HTH
I don't have pics to load but I have at least one difinitive answer. An M44 t-stat housing will not work on and M42 head even though the bolt holes all line up. It is made to seal a much smaller hole. I dont have an M42 housing here to try but I'd lean towards an M42 t-stat not working on the M44 head either. Both have different-shaped sealing surfaces. Also, the hole inside the M44 head where the t-stat base would partially seal for bypass, is much larger. HTH
				
				They are. I scrapped an m42 a while back and those rods are quite heavy. M44 rods are essentially longer s50 M3 rods. I read 100 grams lighter and even though I didn't weigh them I believe it. 
				
				Sounds like an interesting build, excited to see how it turns out!About 2.4mm. They are still very much dish shaped. Now that I figured out how to post a pick straight from my phone, many more will come.
How much did you end up milling off the piston tops?
Wish I could help - this sounds like a very unorthodox, cheap & clever build. Using an M44 crank is a LOT cheaper than finding & machining the M47 crank.Well 100 ish more CC's. 1940 cc total. I mostly picked the m44 bottom end to be able to use the S50's and get 11+ to one. C/R.
I'm still trying to figure out how you gained 100cc's with new pistons, but I'm geometrically challenged. Keep us updated!
I could use some help picking cams. I'm hoping to find cheap re grinds. It will need to pass Cali smog when it's all said and done so im thinking no bigger than 270 at the most. Not sure of the int/exh split either. When I look at our benz heads, the intake valves are around 5mm larger and the exh valves are around 2mm smaller. I have a feeling BMW didn't get the ratio right. Cams could offset that a bit?
MM passed along to me that the best headgasket for an M44 gasket needs to be made by Goetze - I know I'm spelling it incorrectly. They told me that this is the only one that will cheat a bit to run the S52 86.4mm piston -assuming you have an M47 crank to make that work, but that is another story.
				
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