Messages (Become)

Any confirmation on whether or not this will fit LHD M42 equipped E30s?

It does but you must let them know at purchase. Its a bit more work and you need some different parts to get it to fit. They'll be able to explain it all to you as I haven't had any experience fitting it myself.

The final episode is up! I hope you enjoy it, I start talking about the kit about half way through. We tried to be as gratuitous as possible with the induction and exhaust sounds!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k8Ay1x_H-9k

Alright - and interesting development on the tuning front.

I have finally found someone who seems interested in not only tuning my car, but writing a tune that can be sold. This isn't a certainty yet. Below is the email I sent them:

Thanks for the chat earlier.

You'll find the dyno with the AFR in the first post:

http://www.m42club.com/forum/index.php?topic=18442.0

It is quite long, so I'm not expecting you to read everything!

This post http://www.m42club.com/forum/index.php?topic=18442.msg130215#msg130215 compares a few other combinations with different cars. I also cover some of the assumptions made as it isn't a strictly 1:1 comparison, but it does demonstrate the overall improvements from the intake system.

I don't sell the kit and I don't have any financial interest in it. I'm friends with the manufacturer, and I worked with him to develop the kit for M42/4 cars. I sought out someone to help me design it because I don't like unproven parts. The same thing goes for getting a tune - which is why I haven't done it already.

I'm currently organising a group buy for the kit - some people have the M42 engine as well, and I know at least some of them would be interested in a matching tune.

My questions regarding the tune would be:

1. Can you test it to show me before and after results on my vehicle?
2. What do you change in a tune?
3. What differences would you have between your standard tune and customising it (this is assuming that the induction kit makes enough difference to make your standard tune non-viable)?
3. The ECU currently is quite capable of adjusting itself so that I can change muffler for a street and track muffler - will it still be able to do that?
4. And regarding others - will your tune be able to work with overseas models?

At this point, they seemed interested in looking into the details of the kit and the thread. No one ever responds to email, but I have finally found some time to call people and follow up. I thought that with organising a group buy I would put in some renewed effort as it would compliment a setup if a tune makes a demonstrable difference.

I'm generally pretty skeptical about chip tunes, especially regarding claims with stock NA motors. This guy seemed keen to demonstrate that his stuff worked so I'll at least follow it up!

Interested in a group buy.
Any idea if a booster eliminator would allow the standard/unmodified airbox on a LHD e30?

If you want to remove the booster you could quite possibly fit a small man playing a ukulele in the engine bay as well. So, yes. You could fit the standard kit!

I love the ITB kit and design and would possibly be interested in the kit. LHD e30 here. Love the RHD flywheel I have, think this would be a nice addition someday

I would be interested in E30 Spec'd one depending on price

On a side note, i appreciate all the effort you & Rama put into developing these kits, its whats motivated me to build a 2.1L M42 for it.
Picked up a spare engine last night !!   

Alright that is four showing interest!

I've asked Rama how he wants to organise the group purchase for price and kit variations etc, in the meantime you can PM me with your fitment details and location! No commitment yet, just trying to get organised so message me and we'll see if we can make everyone happy with pricing and fitment etc.
I would be interested in the group buy for a e30 fitment also.

Hi and welcome to the forum.

The first thing that came to my mind was the catalytic converter is plugging up. Your car may, or may not, have one.

I've removed the cat. It was plugging up. The car is now driveable but it's still not ok. It won't rev over 3500rpm. When i do, the engine start to sputter...

Go by a can of Carbie Starterfrom an auto store - its ether, very volatile. Spray it liberally around all the hoses at the intake. If the engine sputters or surges, you have an air leak, and it will help you identify where.

sorry if i misread or missed it here, but the RHD flywheel that was linked, that's not straight swap in to an M42 right?  it's an alternative to the M20 flywheel if you're doing the M20 conversion? so you still need the additional parts that would be required for an M20 flywheel replacement?

Nope - straight up swap. It will go straight into an M42/4 series engine, nothing else required other than a matching clutch kit and some flywheel bolts. The clutch kit is any M20 clutch kit, and the bolts are the auto flex plate bolts. All standard parts that are easy to buy.

Wow, great work! I've been researching into M50 ITBs and those guys doing kits or bolting on M3 ITBs onto their M5Xs don't even come close to what you've done here. 

Anyone knows if a similar kit would be worthwhile to develop for the M5Xs?  I'm referring to Lambertius' earlier comment that M50s were basically M42s with 2 extra cylinders tacked on.

Edit: Silly me it seems the M50 kit has already been done ! I'm heading down to Aus to take a look at it.

I haven't played with the M50 kit personally, but I hear that the performance improvement is similar to what has been achieved here. Oh, and it does sound bullshit awesome as well

Hello guys!

So I've decided to make a post showing you how to assemble (or rather how I assembled) the kit! It will be slightly different for everyone depending on the level of work you do for your engine.

To begin with, I have my 3D printed small volume airbox. I had this printed at Shapeways out of ABS. In order to prevent any debris getting sucked into the engine I thoroughly cleaned it, sanded it, cleaned it sprayed with fill-primer, sanded it, primed it, sanded it and then eventually coated it with engine enamel. The airbox reaches about 60 degrees during heavy driving from radiated heat and ABS will remain rigid up until 180 degrees.

The bosses that you see on the part are mounting points for vacuum lines. These will not be on the product from Rama, these were something I did for myself personally because I wanted the kit to fit a certain way.

My only concern is the longevity of the product as it goes through heat cycling, but I made a very thick design to try to mitigate this. Only time will tell. The below photos show the unusual shape of the trumpets, placement relative to the inlet and significant change in volume from ~8 liters to ~2.9 litres. There was a noticeable change in torque and power which I will get onto later (short version is you may be interested in doing this if it's on the street, but not if its on the track). I have a bunch of sim results as well as animation regarding it.








Actually getting started with the install:

I will assume for the sake of this that you can remove your existing manifold or find a tutorial regarding that yourself. Just a tip for the E36 guys, getting the wiring off the alternator can be a pain. In this case we'll actually be removing and disposing of the little wiring box that sits in the manifold, so if you want to make it easier on yourself you can fully remove that part as part of uninstalling the original manifold.

Once it is all apart you will need to start by thoroughly cleaning the surface of the ports. Any garbage left on them from an old gasket or silicone will risk a vacuum leak. You can see the crud left on mine.




In this photo you can see that I've exposed some wiring that runs to the ICV, Crank Sensor and Cam Sensor. I also have a lot of hoses to deal with. One of the particularly odd hoses is the hose that runs coolant into the PCV valve. The purpose of this hose is to prevent the valve from gunking up. It will no go unused, so I cut the hose to an appropriate length then joined both ends with a hose joiner.



You can see the join made between cylinders 2 and 3.




I covered the wiring in split tubing then electrical tape to prevent water ingress.





One of the more fun parts was tapping a fitting for my brake booster. Originally we tapped this on the front side of the engine due to ease, but I didn't like how it looked so I moved it. There is no need to do this step, you could achieve the same thing by mounting the booster line very close to any cylinder (it won't work if you go into the vacuum block). This won't be tapped by from Rama unless you specifically request it - but its easy enough to do yourself with a hand drill and a NPT/BSP tap (depending on the hose fitting you use). I used an L-shaped fitting so that I could get the hose super snug in the back of the engine bay. In the photos below you can see how I ran the hose, and where I blocked off the old tap at the front of the engine.





Putting the manifold on itself is easy. The hardest part is getting the fuel hoses through the gap between cylinder 3-4. You will need to place stand-offs on for your fuel rails (some hollow pipe cut to size). Their length may vary depending on your purpose. The manifold fits both the OEM air-shroud injectors and standard injectors.





Be patient installing your injectors, and use some WD40 to help get everything in. This is probably the 'hardest' part of the install.

I removed all the original injector hoses because I wanted to run the air shroud to the other side of the engine bay. This was done to stay tidy, no other reason.




Getting your ITBs ready is a bit of a trick when you're using the vacuum bypass for the ICV. Here you will need to get a non-hardening silicone sealant and apply it around the edge of the butterfly. You will need to open and close it a few times to make sure you've covered the entire edge, which you can see from the marks where the edge hits the surface. You will also need to spray the surface with WD40 once the sealant is applied so that the throttle doesn't 'stick'. This is important, try and drive the car normally for a few days because the silicone will 'set' a bit over time with heat. While it's at its softest, you can actually ruin your seal from the high velocity air at high RPM. This will make your idle strange.




Getting the throttle bodies in is a fun game. There are all the levers and connectors which you can read about on Rama's site. In the below pictures you can see that I moved all the hoses so that I could neatly place the throttle cable (unlike with the prototype fitment). I've also place the TPS and  attached hoses to the throttle bypass under the manifold into a vacuum block. I've also hooked up the FPR into the vacuum block. Rama has a few different designs of block, I liked this one purely for neatness.




I hooked up the crank vent to a catch can, and then I placed an in line PCV valve between the catch can and the vacuum block. Unfortunately this doesn't generate enough vacuum and my oil cover started leaking from the pressure. If you want to run your oil fumes back into the intake (you should because it prevents water getting into your oil, plus its illegal in a lot of areas) you will need to run the PCV valve directly into a cylinder like I did the brake booster.

You can also see the adapter block with the ICV in the bottom right. This is only relevant to the M44 guys since the M42 uses an inline ICV. My ICV adapter is different to the one Rama made since I had to get mine done before he started manufacturing the parts.



Getting all the spacers on is easy.




I measured the resistance of the DISA when I removed it and purchased a resistor which I placed in the DISA plug to make the computer think it is still there.  You can see it wrapped in electrical tape in the above photo. You can see where I tapped the air fittings into my 3D printed parts, and ran the hoses to the ICV and the injector shrouds. You can also see a piece of rubber between my two plenum halves which I bought and cut to size as a gasket.

I tied the temp sensor around my air filter.



That is pretty much it. I've changed a few ways the hoses have run since then to make it neater, but otherwise its the same as this!



Ask questions if you have any, and I'll start working on my next post.

I still don't see the kit in www.racehead.com.au website, well i guess it will pop up in time. But what I have understood is that the kit is now up for sale in some sort of RHDs re-sellers Taiwan page at http://www.alluringarage.com/products/rhd-for-bmw-m42m44-itb-kit

I have no clue what it says in Taiwan (or chinese whatever they speak in there, can someone translate? ) in the page, but then somehow I bumped in to this in their page: http://www.alluringarage.com/rhdengineering/rhd-technical-documents/12284.html So does this mean that I have to buy a separate item for the kit to fit M44 because it has a different idle control than the M42? Is the Idle motor fitting piece already developed? I could use a little info here

I'll do a proper write up on the installation and all the parts soon 

I've been pretty busy, in the process of buying my first apartment at the moment!

I'll ask Rama when he will list it on his main website, but from what I remember he has to organise a few things before it is actually available. Rama is based in Thailand, so it would make sense that he would test the release there first. He also just had his first kid, so he has been pretty hung up on that at the moment!

The kit still needs to be finalised, but if you head over to http://racehead.com.au/ you can shoot Rama an email and ask him about pricing and ETA.

Hi guys, this is the mad info splash that I've been promising for a while - I wrote this months ago except where is says Edit

Now the impending wall-of-text is a summary of everything I've learned over the last few months. I'm not going to cite everything, because no. I will tell you that google is not the answer though, this is the kind of stuff you find in old books in these things called “libraries”. What I'm writing will probably not be any better than any blog or opinion in the sense that I'm not writing a verifiable list of sources it’s too much effort, and I did this for fun! All I can say is that the information in books is significantly better than what you find on the web for this topic. I suspect because it represents true engineering complexity and is only really used in industry applications.

To begin with, I want to highlight a few myths that I now understand:

•   ITBs improve power
•   Shorter is better
•   Bigger is better
•   Open air reduces intake drag

The above points are the common myths I came across online before starting, and just… no. No.

ITBs Improve Power

The first, and arguably most important point, is that ITBs (in their own right) ARE NOT a performance part. They are part of a performance system, but they do not contribute to the power output of the system. Of all the things I learned this surprised me the most. It turns out that the real reason that ITBs exist was to allow aggressive CAM profiles to run without overlap.

If you have a single throttle body, you need to all the cylinders have to run to common point. This caused significant issues at idle (such as when there is an accident, or in the pits) where the cylinder cross-talk could stall the engine. By running ITBs, each cylinder could run to atmosphere (or usually a pair of cylinders with carbies!) meaning no cross talk. This allowed you to run extremely aggressive cam profiles without the engine cutting out at low RPM.

As a side effect, driver’s noted that the cars responded better to throttle changes. This happens because the butterfly sits in the high velocity airstream within the intake. This means that the air takes less time from when the butterfly opens to when the change is observed within the engine – in other words, you improve the responsiveness of the engine!

These reasons meant that ITBs became a critical component of performance intake design. They allowed you to run very aggressive CAMS without negative effects, and improved the engine feel, but they do not contribute any power to the system on their own; but you wouldn’t have a proper performance system without them!

Shorter is Better

Intuitively, the path of least resistance is into an engine cylinder is the shortest distance – and that is correct. So intuitively, a lot of people believe that shortening the intake in order to reduce intake drag will improve performance, and you would be catastrophically wrong.

NA engines are witchcraft. They are basically resonant boxes that exploit the natural frequency of everything in order to run.

I want you to understand that I don’t pretend to know everything, but I also want you to realise that fluids are a magical land of hate and pain and that NO ONE knows anything. It is all guess work and iterative design based on calculated guesses from past experience.

It turns out that the elasticity of air is a significant effector in intake design. Ever hear the term RAM intake? Well, it turns out the actual origins of the term are from some old Chevy Motor that had an air intake that looked like Ram horns. Basically for any given RPM, you want your intake to be a particular length to take advantage of resonant pulsing of the air along the length. This resonant pulse can force more air into a cylinder, because when it is timed correctly the pulse can travel down the length of the intake at the exact moment the valve is open. On this particular point I will actually expand later in regards to the OEM intake, because I actually understand the design now, and it is legitimately brilliant.

The origins of this pulsing behaviour is caused by the valves closing. When the valve closes on a cylinder, the air carries with it momentum, and keeps travelling forward. As the air hits the now shut valve, the incoming momentum compresses the air, which then decompresses sending a pulse back out the intake. If the intake is the correct length it will bounce from one end of the intake to the other. Designing your intake to take advantage of this is called ‘wave tuning’

Bigger is Better

Nope. This one is a bit easier to explain though. As I said before, the moving air carries with it momentum. Physics baby! If you make the intake the right diameter, you will solve a best balance point between intake restriction and maximum momentum which will add up to maximum cylinder filling. As the cylinder slows down when it approaches the bottom of the cycle, the only thing filling the cylinder is the momentum remaining in the air. Too small an intake and you will restrict the mass flow of the cylinder, too big and the volumetric efficiency will be low. And if you’re using ITBs you will also reduce the velocity profile over the butterfly and reduce the throttle response.

Open Air Reduces Intake Drag

Okay, this is seriously one of the more magical components of intake design.

Remember how I said the origins of ITBs was to allow aggressive CAM profiles to run to atmosphere? Well, it turns out that in reality, having groups of cylinders running to a plenum (which I will hence forth refer to as a pulse chamber and you will understand why soon) almost always performs significantly better than open atmosphere, especially with overlap. The only exception would be extremely high RPM motors (over 12 000 RPM) where it can be difficult to design an efficient pulse chamber for high velocity flow.

The reasoning behind the open air solution, is that there is less drag – again, this is true – but remember that magical resonant black magic thing? Yep.

Pulse chambers are too hard for me to properly understand in my short time learning, let alone to properly inform you of their operation – there is a lot going on.

• First, a pulse chamber can restrict the air flow, but increase air velocity (and hence momentum) contributing to cylinder filling. This works on the same principal described earlier.
• Next it acts as a resonant chamber with its own resonant modes to assist with cylinder filling. Like a RAM intake, pulsing within the chamber can send air back down the intake to an open cylinder with more momentum.
• Third it can provide a velocity over the intake trumpets which induces another resonant effect. Know how you blow over a bottle and it hums? That is Helmholtz resonance. The velocity stream (which you can see in the simulations once I do a proper write up on those) can induce resonance in the intake tract (if everything is perfect) assisting the RAM effect.
• And finally, it allows the backlash (the air sent back up the intake from a closing valve) to assist in filling an open cylinder. This works by briefly increasing the pressure inside the pulse chamber (hence why an intake plenum is actually a pulse chamber) when the positive pressure wave hits the chamber at the same time that another cylinder is partially open. The increased pressure is naturally sent down the intake with the negative pressure from the open valve.

Below are animations of the final design for the airbox that was used. The incoming airstream never has to sharply change direction to supply any of the cylinders and the momentum of the incoming air ensures that Cylinder 4 is not starved.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SDHJF4_CFhA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nGDdkidqnHI

So What Happens if you Add it All up?

If you have lots of data on your engine, know all the different velocities, and understand your intake behaviour:

You will design your intake to be the correct length such that resonant pulses are combined with the correct volume for the pulse chamber so that it resonates at the same RPM meaning that the positive pressure pulses combine at the same time that another cylinder is opening, so that the whole intake is in positive pressure compared to atmosphere so that it slams down pressurised air to the open cylinder through the intake that is the right diameter ensuring high velocity ingestion for maximum cylinder filling. If you do this all perfectly, you can end up with anywhere between 2~10 PSI in your pulse chamber at the ideal RPM – you can actually run you engine intake at positive pressure by exploiting resonance even though it is entirely fed by the open atmosphere. The reason this works is that the momentum of the air heading into the pulse chamber via the MAF prevents the air escaping back to atmosphere allowing the pulse chamber to remain pressurised. Keep in mind, this is an ideal scenario made for one specific engine at one specific RPM.

It turns out that a real ITB kit is the cherry on top of a perfectly tuned induction system. If you made a perfect induction system, you would still benefit from having ITBs rather than a throttle between the MAF and the pulse chamber because your ITB kit will sit right inside the highest velocity profile.

So the OEM system…?

It’s all about torque, and it is genuinely brilliant. I actually went to the (considerable) trouble of modelling up the DISA intake for simulation, and I learned a lot from it.

The older M42 intake is designed to provide maximum power at ~7000 RPM by using an intake length of ~320mm. The throttle runs into the centre of the pulse chamber to try and reduce cylinder starvation. It’s simple, straight forward and top-end performance focused.

The DISA intake from the E36 cars – holy shit is that some brilliant design and is all about improving real-world driveability.

The DISA manifold has two pulse chambers. The first is the same 320mm (peak power, DISA valve open) and the second is at 800mm to create peak performance at ~2500rpm! It does this by isolating each cylinder entirely by closing the DISA valve so that each cylinder runs 800mm before it can cross-talk with the pulse from another cylinder. Even smarter, they utilise the firing order of the engine so that they only need two runners to service all four cylinders to the furthest pulse chamber!

Edit: Since I originally wrote this you can actually see when the DISA switches and prevent the power drop off after peak torque is reached. Just before 4750 RPM power starts to drop from intake drag until the valve switches and the resonance prevents further drop.



Even better, the design is equal length – so no cylinder starvation, and in the first chamber they put a golf ball pattern in the casting to assist the air with the sharp direction change from the throttle body. When I can animate the simulation results I will come back here and link it. In the simulation you can see that the golf pattern prevent all the air from the throttle running into just one runner by breaking up the flow. Very clever. This is the model I used to simulate the OEM behaviour.



All this combines to an extremely turbulent air flow which significantly assists fuel mixing at low RPM PLUS the air-bleed injectors to also assist fuel mixing all adds up to better low-down torque. Clearly, it was on BMWs mind that street comfort was a big issue for their sporty engines.

So what about Rama's kit?

Edit: I wrote this well before the results, and was too afraid to post it in case I was wrong – so now victory!

I don’t work for RHD. I’m designing this kit with Rama’s help because I wanted a decent ITB kit, and I wanted to learn something. I say this, because I just want you to realise that everything I say is honest because I have nothing to lose or gain on the success of the kit.

I have high hopes.

Rama, who has a lot more experience than I, is very confident that the kit will improve performance. I however, believe it will, but this is my first rodeo, so I am more just interested to see the results.

Our kit isn’t just an ITB kit, it is a properly designed, tuned-length induction system with a calculated guess at a pulse chamber volume, and all of it has been verified with CFD. I feel quite confident in saying that I expect there to be a significant improvement in top-end performance with this kit. The design is as smooth as possible for flow, and the castings are good quality. I honestly believe there will be a significant improvement in flow rate at the 4000+RPM range because of the much more direct intake design. Our intake should resonate between 6000~7000RPM utilising the same OEM 320mm short-path intake tract, but with MUCH less obstruction.

I think for the DISA intake, it is likely that there will be a loss in low-end torque, simply because it isn’t possible for us to replicate the 800mm length with all the convolutions that would increase fuel mixing down low. An interesting point though, our intake diameter is a few mm smaller than the OEM casting – but will be better matched to the cylinder head – which will affect the low RPM air velocity, which may mean that we don’t see much loss, or any

Edit: The tighter diameter prevented any loss from occurring!

Rama has selected the ITB diameter on his previous experience, and I’m not in a place to doubt it – though in time the Dyno will tell all!

I think that it is very likely that this kit will really open up the top end for the M42/4 engines, while doing very little to lose lower end performance. And I’m really looking forward to finishing up with the kit!

I’m anxious to see the results, because the design does follow everything I’ve learned (plus Rama’s experience) and I really do want to see positive results!

Below are the Dyno results on the day,



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5W_ObbncUls

We used a massively long 15" intake to get the results we wanted, and you can see that the peak torque actually occurs earlier than in the OEM setup and still doesn't choke out the engine at any point.



So yeah that is pretty much it, it sounds wicked and added power without any losses by doing everything properly. We used a tight diameter butterfly, long runners and placed the trumpets at an ideal angle to the intake stream. The OEM ECU working in closed loop was completely capable of adjusting itself and it makes real street power and by simply shortening the runner this whole system would be easily adjusted for any race engine.

This should really put to rest any myths or uncertainty surrounding this much fantasised mod and it should also illustrate with evidence the problems with kits like the Dbilas and M3 ITB conversions DON'T DO IT!!!

I'll have a new muffler soon and we'll also see if that actually has any effect on power. I've heard claims that 15kW has been seen from just the muffler before, so here is hoping that I hit 95wkW!

Well then, how does a 16% improvement (at the wheels) from about 4200 RPM onwards with no losses in earlier RPM sound? Or if the 103kW rating is to be believed - 119.48kW (160bhp) at max engine power?

Stock ECU, and it had been running less than 20 minutes before the dyno run and the ECU was still learning the trim. It has definitely gained more in the hours of driving since.

I just want to let you know a couple of things:

• The original trumpet length we used was 12" and resulted in the car's 0-100 dropping from 8.9s to 12.5s - so the short runners you see in kits like Dbilas will certainly gain you a net loss
• Even with the long 15" runners and 42mm ITB you can see no evidence of choking or restriction and the intake will still serve a much more aggressive engine still

I hope we're laid some myths to rest

I'll upload some more picks and videos later today!
[/list]

Yes it will be available in CF

So, here are a few things:

• Fully installed and running today - not an ideal fitment yet, but that will come after fit is verified
• The stock ECU is learning the setup - from when I first started the car till I got home the power difference was substantial
• It hasn't visited the dyno yet, but will tomorrow
• I can conclusively say that ITBs wider than 42mm even for a racing version of this engine with nutty cams is seriously overdoing it
• Unless you have a power band from 6000-8000RPM make sure your intake length is at least 13"

Today driving around the power differences are truly perceptible, but the actual values need to be confirmed on the dyno - I'll elaborate more when I have numbers, but tomorrow we're going to lengthen the intake as much as we can with the space in the engine bay to try and get the most out of it. It is behaving as expected, but its not tuned for the right range yet.

The difference to the power curve is substantial to the point that its obvious without the dyno, but it will be good to have actual numbers. The power curve has flattened out massively, but its still climbing by the time I hit the rev limiter so the trumpets are still too short. I can say though from this experiment, that there is no reason to go for bigger ITBs for this engine - even the sim data I have (which I will bring to the surface eventually) showed that 42mm ITBs could handle nearly double [Note, this number is still under revision] the airflow before they cause as much drag as the stock manifold.

The solution hasn't been reached yet though, but hopefully we get the lengths right and get some more power!

Thank for the feedback guys!

I went and had a fiddle with the car today and got a clear video of it running.

We're still working out the throttle position and making the intake plenum. There are a few little things to work out, but for the most part the factory ECU seems to handle running without the MAF quite well considering the difference in components! Should be back on the dyno early next week!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8SB5N4OrAX4

Brief update guys:

I'm back in Sydney and met Rama today. I've seen the kit and it will start getting fitted tomorrow. First thing in the morning I'm heading to a dyno to get a stock setup power run, and then to Rama to get the ITB kit fitted. After the kit is fitted I will get an exhaust fitted as well and then the car will get a tune.

I wanted to go Power Run>Exhaust>Power Run>ITB Kit>Tune but I can't afford it  The tuner I'm going to is overpriced - but they have a hub dyno which is more accurate and more reliable - especially since I will be coming back at a later date for the comparison run. They are also set up to tune the OEM ecu directly which the cheaper dyno places aren't set up to do. So instead of $60 for a power run it is $220! I'll try and negotiate with the guy a bit more tomorrow to see if he will come down to a round number for the whole lot, but I doubt it. So far I've kept costs on my car very low by striking deals that any work performed would be featured in a video for my youtube channel. Brintech and RHD liked the idea and have been helping me out along the way, but I haven't been able to find a dyno to come onboard.

Its a bit of a setback that we won't see the ITB kit run on its own, but we will be able to see an overall result!

Anyway, if someone knows a tuner in Sydney let me know asap otherwise I'm off tomorrow to get the power run and the install started!