M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => Engine + Driveline => Topic started by: FL318is on August 08, 2006, 11:33:56 AM
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When I got the car I noticed the temp gauge remanied below the 1/4 mark nearest the blue area. When My E46 did this it was a stuck thermostat.
While I am waiting to finish the minor part replacements I also replaced the thermostat. I did not appear to be stuck open but was rotated 180 degrees to the right based on the image I referenced.
So anyway, where does the E30 318iS temp gauge usually rest?:confused:
Thanks
PS Its too hot in Florida to take any chances.
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Straight up and down or a little to the left is optimal.
Make sure the orientation is correct when you install the t-stat. There's a marking or something that sits on the top.
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Straight up and down or a little to the left is optimal.
Make sure the orientation is correct when you install the t-stat. There's a marking or something that sits on the top.
Thanks! I thought so!
They both have a little indentation. The old one had a bad seal. Man, I hope I get my hoses get here today. I cannot stand not driving it much longer!:mad:
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Also, e30 instrumentation and clusters SUCK... you could just have a bad gauge.. I once knew a guy that used 12 different e30 clusters to finally put ONE good one together lol.. make sure its not something major first for sure, but I would definatly swap in a different gauge and see if you still have the same problem..
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Also, e30 instrumentation and clusters SUCK... you could just have a bad gauge.. I once knew a guy that used 12 different e30 clusters to finally put ONE good one together lol.. make sure its not something major first for sure, but I would definatly swap in a different gauge and see if you still have the same problem..
Ahh... on that one, I'd put my money on the t-stat and it's a way cheaper fix than replacing instrument clusters. Check the t-stat and seal first.
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We finally got most of the hoses on last night. As soon as they are all on I will check out the temp. I did replace the t-stat because in Florida you gotta have a good cooling system.
If need be the gauge will be next.
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Dont forget to bleed the system after your all done.
Info (http://www.esatclear.ie/~bpurcell/318ismaintenance.html#bleed)
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Thanks, I will make sure that is done!
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My temp gauge is also leaning to the left. On the mountain uphill, the gauge went straight up. Then it went to the left again when I was done climbing. So... it is not normal? Bad thermostat?
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I changed my thermostat just to be sure. In FL there is no terrain elevational changes so I think mine is fine at about between 1/4 and 1/2.
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My temp gauge is also leaning to the left. On the mountain uphill, the gauge went straight up. Then it went to the left again when I was done climbing. So... it is not normal? Bad thermostat?
Leaning how far to the left?
Mine typically runs just a tick or so to the left of straight up and down, and is pretty much rock solid there all the time.... well, right up until I flushed the cooling system... then I had to bleed the crap out of it to get normal again.
And, of course, right now I have NO radiator in the car anyway, as I am still waiting on the arrival of the last remaining gear I need to complete the timing chain swap out.
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A/C guys usually have surface temp guages and racers have tire temp guages. If you get around one stick it on the thermostat housing. My guage stays at 1/4 but the temp of the thermostat housing is around 185. Maybe a metal water pump impeller transfers heat better to the bimetallic spring or viscous fluid in the fan clutch. It needs to be hot enough to move some air for the A/C to work well.
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Leaning how far to the left?
Mine typically runs just a tick or so to the left of straight up and down, and is pretty much rock solid there all the time.... well, right up until I flushed the cooling system... then I had to bleed the crap out of it to get normal again.
And, of course, right now I have NO radiator in the car anyway, as I am still waiting on the arrival of the last remaining gear I need to complete the timing chain swap out.
about halfway between the red and vertical.
What do you need to remove from the engine bay to replace the timing chain? I don't know nothing about opening up the engine. But I am curious because I would like to do preventive maintenance before the chain or a sprocket breaks. My engine doesn't make chattering sound which is good. What's the best way (easiest and surest) to check the timing chain and the condition of the sprockets and the tensioner? TIA.
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Mine leans just to the left of middle. It'll hit the middle if I'm sitting in traffic for a long time but once I get moving again it moves back to left of middle :).
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I think the important thing is how quick it gets to the temperature its achieving. If the temperature rises relativly fast and then it sits there the gauge calibration might be off but otherwise normal(hopefully not so off its actually overheated). If the temperature gauges take a long time to reach where it is then its probably the thermostat. When mine went itd take my car about 15-20min to get outta the blue region. Hope this helps.
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To remove the timing chain, you need to pull the fan and fan clutch (which really requires removal of the radiator). To just check it, you chould be able to just pull the cam/valve cover and the front upper timing cover.