M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => Engine + Driveline => Topic started by: JoeDellio on June 18, 2009, 01:39:33 AM
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Not gettin much love on BF, need some M42 guru knowledge
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1250139
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You have to figure out why you have positive pressure in your crankcase. I have an e30, so I won't be much help with that positive pressure ventilator. It's worth a second look. The manifolds on M42s get pretty nasty with dino oil, it might just need some cleaning. Maybe run a compression test? There is no way pressure should be forcing oil out of the cap.
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is it possible that one of the crankcase ventilation hoses is clogged??? what happens if you completely unplug it? (at the valve cover) and +1 on the compression test. book says 156 PSI, but for some reason some ppl get 225??!
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is it possible that one of the crankcase ventilation hoses is clogged??? what happens if you completely unplug it? (at the valve cover) and +1 on the compression test. book says 156 PSI, but for some reason some ppl get 225??!
That 156psi is the lowest it should be. When I did mine it was 220 across all 4.
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is it possible that one of the crankcase ventilation hoses is clogged??? what happens if you completely unplug it? (at the valve cover) and +1 on the compression test. book says 156 PSI, but for some reason some ppl get 225??!
When I unplug it it the CCV whistles and the car stumbles real hard until I block the CCV with my finger, then it runs fine, but I cant feel any pressure coming out of the valve cover end of the hose, which is weird, because 16 inches away it gets forced out the cap.
Could a lot of blowby be the culprit? I would think my exhaust would smoke at least a little if I got that much blowby.
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take off the valve cover and have a look???
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take off the valve cover and have a look???
Did that tonight, nothing out of the ordinary, nothing was clogged or anything. Im still tryin to figure out why when I pull my oil cap off when my car is running it doesnt change the idle at all.
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UPDATE: I took off the CCV, everything is intact. With the CCV removed the hole which it covers sucks SUPER hard, so I put the hose that goes to the CCV directly on it and then I get tons of vacuum.
When I put the CCV back on its like it barely pulls at all. Ive never heard of them breaking this way, Its almost like the spring is too weak and it shuts itself off.
It is a brand new CCV from Pelican, but I bought the FEBI one, not the OEM. If anybody could pull off there CCV hose and see how hard it sucks when they put their finger over it that would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks guys.
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NEW UPDATE
Compression tests out 160-230-230-210. Of course its always cylinder #1.
All my plugs are pitch black.
I dont think that blowby in just cylinder #1 would cause:
A. All my spark plugs to be fouled/borderline dead.
B. My Crankcase pressure to be off the chart.
C. The reason why my car is running rich.
Im still leaning on the CCV. I contacted Pelican and they are gonna send me a new one because its only 2 months old. I really think this one is defective or my car just flat out killed it. I think my positive pressure is because my CCV isnt letting it through, or at least I hope so.
If a new CCV fixes the problem Ill be happy. If it craps out, and indeed my weak cylinder #1 is ruining my fun, then in goes a new longblock. Locally they can be had for $500-$700 with 90,000 to 130,000 miles. And itll get ARP head studs on it :D
Ill post up when I get the new CCV in hopefully by the end of the week.
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I'd do the same thing, and I agree that one low reading isn't cause for all that. Let us know if the new CCV works out. Might just have been a defective one.
Just wondering...do you use synthetic or dino oil?
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I'd do the same thing, and I agree that one low reading isn't cause for all that. Let us know if the new CCV works out. Might just have been a defective one.
Just wondering...do you use synthetic or dino oil?
I use dino oil, and sometimes diesel oil to clean her out.
Im afraid synthetic on 249K miles will sprout some major leaks. What do you reccomend? Anything that can stand up to blowby more than others?
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I have 268K on mine, switched over to synthetic with no problem. I don't know where anyone gets this idea that synthetic will make an engine leak. :mad: It's never been my experience. Sure, if you have pre-existing leaks, the thin synthetic will ooze a little faster, but that's the only difference I've ever seen. That and higher fuel mileage, easier cold starts, etc.
The ten cars that I've changed over to synthetic are either still running or went to salvage from unrelated problems. No major leaks that I know of. They range from minivans to pickups to my beloved BMWs.
Motorcycles and diesels are different...wet clutches don't do well with some additives in synthetics. Gas engine cars always seem to run better on synthetic. Only downside to me is that it's so expensive.
Synthetics I'd avoid are alcohol or biodiesel unless you're prepared for them. These are solvents, and will attack old gaskets. Teflon is also a no-no.
So there you have my humble opinion...sorry to soapbox, but I had to get that out! :D
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What synthetic do you use? Ive been wanting to try the Mobil 1 10W40 high mileage.
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I'll use whatever is on sale...:p I'm uh, frugal.
Currently I'm using Ultra Q 10w40, Quaker State's offering. I prefer Purolator, Mobile1 or OEM oil filters.
I wouldn't recommend this for everyone, but I'll use BMW's standard 15000 mile/annual interval, but replace the filter every 6k or 6months, whichever comes first. Since this is a third car/hobby/toy I end up replacing a filter on the first day of spring and another filter & oil on the first day of fall.
I don't use this car for commuting and it's not dusty where I live...that'd require the severe duty regimen, more like 7.5k miles oil & 3k filters. Your mileage may definitely vary, I don't think anyone else would recommend this sort of technique.
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Today for the hell of it I am going to put an old boost/vacuum gauge on the car. I am going to hook it up between the FPR and intake to see what the reading is. Im guessing itll be anywhere from 10 to 20 on the vacuum side of things, that is, unless the CCV is screwing crap up.
Then Im gonna get a reading with the gauge between the VC and the CCV. If Im right about my thoughts, the positive pressure from the VC is shutting off the CCV and its gonna read boost pressure on the gauge.
Then Im going to get a one way valve or maybe even just a ball valve and try and get the CCV side vacuum reading to match whatever the FPR and intake side is reading. If I can adjust it correctly Im going to try and get it to read 18 counts of vacuum, and see if my CEL, oil leaks out the cap, and if my plugs get fouled or not. Im just gonna mess around with it, the new CCV should be here tomorrow or THURS at the latest.
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Just pulled my codes again to reset them for the new CCV install (will be here in an hour).
Pulled a new code today #1215 the air sensor. WTF?!?!?!
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Just installed the CCV, the car is sitting in my driveway warming up. I havent driven it yet, but I can tell you that at least now when I pull my oil fill cap or my dipstick my car stumbles and wants to die, so at least now its pulling vacuum.
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Good so far...but I'll bet the world will thank you if you edit that valve out of the system. I'd just replace the plumbing, add a restrictor and/or one-way valve, and maybe an oil catch can like the ricers use.
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Good so far...but I'll bet the world will thank you if you edit that valve out of the system. I'd just replace the plumbing, add a restrictor and/or one-way valve, and maybe an oil catch can like the ricers use.
I thought about it earlier, but it has to pull a certain amount of vacuum, too much and itll pull air in throught the engine seals with a loud whistle, and too little will force air out of the cap. Im sure I could get it happy at idle, but I dont know how it would react in a wide RPM range.
What I did on my talon was put on a Fram G2 motorcycle fuel filter. Its a one way valve thatll trap oil. But that engine also had a seperate PCV line too. It could be worth a shot if my problem comes back into play.
UPDATE: Put on the new CCV and drove the car for 3 hours tonight, Im still getting fault codes, but I am not leaking any oil out the cap as of yet.
I did pull a new code that happened to be the air sensor #1215, its the only time Ive pulled that one, and it wont come back now since I cleared it. So right away tonight I bought one of a member on BF's for $50 shipped.
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Poor AFM...it's probably shocked at the vacuum it's seeing now!
I'd check that AFM connector, and 1215 codes can also be caused by vacuum leaks or other related intake issues.
It's like the O2 sensor error, that's usually the FPR running the injectors too rich.
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Poor AFM...it's probably shocked at the vacuum it's seeing now!
I'd check that AFM connector, and 1215 codes can also be caused by vacuum leaks or other related intake issues.
It's like the O2 sensor error, that's usually the FPR running the injectors too rich.
Great, I hope the 1215 error isnt just getting screwed up now because of my pressure/intake/vacuum issues. Then I just wasted my money.
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Just bought a stock FPR off ebay today for $20 shipped. So then I can rule that out along with the new AFM.
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I'd hold off on stuff until you're sure the problem is fixed, unless you just want to add the reliability factor to your car. It's possible that a different used part will be worse than the one you have on the car. Is it still running well?
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It runs fine, doesnt leak any oil out of the cap anymore, but its still running rich and still pulling codes 1222 and 1226. So Im just going down the line of things to try for the rich problem, plus with 250K, the FPR on the car is still the OEM. My plugs and O2 sensor are still pitch black, I cant believe it runs as good as it does, but eventually the plugs are gonna foul out again soon and Ill have to limp it back home for another cleaning to keep me going.
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Just installed the FPR.
Funny thing is it is a 3.5 bar, when the one that came out was a 3.0 bar.
My car is a 09/94, and this is the diagram it shows for it http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CA53&mospid=47490&btnr=13_0366&hg=13&fg=15
But my injection system looks like this one from a M44 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CD73&mospid=47493&btnr=13_0416&hg=13&fg=15 which still says a 3.0 bar, but WTF? Im pretty sure I have the M42, I dont know why I have the M44 injection type system.
Im guessing now the 3.5 bar FPR is just gonna dump even more fuel?
3.5 bar FPR made no difference, codes still pop up, 1226,1222,1221. This is the wrong FPR right? Should I put the old 3 bar back in?
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Different FPR didnt make a difference.
Neither did a different AFM. I put a supposed good one from a 92 318i and the car ran worse, bogging out and sputtering real bad.
I put in different plugs that were good when I switched to iridiums and the car still bogs out bad, Im gonna swap my old AFM back in and see if this problem persists, but then I still have the original problem...
My next step is Im gonna try and test the O2 circuit if I can figure out how, and see if the sensor is dead, or if its even getting power to it.
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I tested it in and out of the car tonight.
Outside of the car I read its DCV with a torch to it. I could get it to read .1 all the way up to .7 with the torch on it for around 2 minutes, but when I would pull it away it would drop real slow, it should drop at least .1 within 5 seconds.
Back in the car I hooked it up and left it out to ensure the heater was coming on, and it was.
Put it back in and tried to monitor the volts at idle, the car was warm and should have been in closed loop, which should have had the volts jumping back and forth from below .45 and over it. All I got was a solid -6.5? WTF?
Then I checked my temp gauge and it was 3/4!!!!! Just from idling for 10 minutes. All my cooling system is all new, coincidence with the O2? I dont know. Maybe I cooked it too much and messed something up?
So then I let the car cool down and unplugged the O2 and started it back up and drove it around, no overheating at all, stayed right in the middle.
I didnt think it was possible for an O2 to read that low. To pull a number under .45v means its running lean and the O2 is trying to compensate by adding more fuel. But -6.5? thats crazy, either it was already broken or I cooked it.
Back to the drawing board. :confused:
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I'm not sure which set of pins to read. It sounds like you did the right thing...but I'm not sure a torch would get it to read right. 6.5vdc sounds like a voltage drop on the heater instead of the sensor feed.
My car will heat up if it's idling for too long, I'm still working on that one. Might be a bad sender switch in my case.
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My car has never heated up like that before. Both sensors are new, temp switch, t-stat, pump and radiator, with the TB heater delete!
Im almost posotive I tapped the right wire, it was the gray one. I have a gray, black, and then the 2 whites for the heater.
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Just noticed I am losing coolant. Checked it again today and it was down to the little tube that is in the bottom of the resevoir tank. I am 99% sure I am not leaking it, so I must be burning it.
Im thinking maybe thats why I pulled a low compression reading on my #1 cylinder, but I dont have enough knowledge or will power left to link it to my main problem.
I get some white smoke on a hard rev, but my exhaust doesnt smell sweet like it would with a blown HG. And there is no oil in my coolant and vice versa, but I know HG's can be tricky somtimes with no symptoms at all.
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Well, Im pretty sure the head gasket is toast or my head is cracked. Today I filled it up in the morning, took a half gallon, then I drove it for 15 minutes and checked it again when it cooled down. It took another half gallon.
It use to loosed about an inch before I drove it up to OH from FL. But the bars leak I put in must have cured it. It wasnt till I seafoamed it that it started loosing coolant again massively.
I have no oil in my coolant or vice versa, but when I get on it or rev it up high it does puff white, and there is condensation in my tailpipe. With my exhaust leaks I could be purging it out also, or dripping it from all the holes in my muffler. Thats why Im thinking cracked head, or a leak in a galley that isnt letting the 2 fluids mix.
Tonight Im going and buying a leak tester and putting it to it. Im hoping this is what plagued all my other problems. Water getting in my combustion, wetting the plugs, not burning all the fuel and in turn running rich. Is that to crazy of a diagnosis to make?
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Im going to make my own CCV that pulls more vacuum.
Im thinking my higher than normal CC pressure is messing up the CCV and screwing up my readings on the O2, in turn making my car run RICH. Which is my main problem.