M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => Engine + Driveline => Topic started by: charlesmarseille on April 11, 2009, 04:06:28 AM
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okay so there goes:
1991 bmw 318i m42, about 220k kilometers, I have a leak at the oil filter housing, where the o ring goes, i changed the gasket but forgot the oring, now a lot of oil gets out that way, thus, im getting quite some oil on the crankshaft position sensor, and my car is acting really wierd now.
It wont turn over, its the third pump that goes in it since two weeks, and they all end up busted(not operating when plgged un a batery). I have voltage to the fuel pump when attempting to start (from 11.0 to 15.6, is this too much?) and when i try to start the car, it sometimes goes up to 400-500RPM then dies, like if there was no gas going there. I dont have a pressure tester so i didnt test my fuel P. My question is: what can break my pumps this way? ECU? CPS? and the check engine light sends the code 1215 (airflow sensor) but i just replaced the intake elbow, and did the throttle body hoses delete mod+ changed all intake gaskets. 2nd problem(but less important): my engine does a wastegate-like sound when reving, it seems to be an intake sound, but only when im rolling. anyways, what do you guys think of that?
thanks a lot
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by the way, fuel pump relay and main relay are good, pump is brand new(i rolled about 60km tonight before it failed). a luck its a 1 year warranty!
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did you change your fuel filter with the pumps??? clogged filters will cause the pump to fail.
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yep filter is brand new. lines are good all the way to the engine, i changed the fuel lines between the hardline and the fuel rail too. (those 1'' long hoses) might it be my FPR? or an unopening injector, caused by a bad ECU? thanks guys again.
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guys i really need some advice here, ive gotta work tonight and theres no other way than putting fuel to my m42! Im sure you guys know why usually fuel pumps fail!
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UPDATE: i just tested my third fuel pump, and when connected directly to a battery, it clicks when i put voltage on it. and clicks again when i remove voltage. but it doesn't operate.
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doh, i just read that its bad to run a new pump with less than 1/2 the tank, i was about 1/3 and the pump failed at about 1/5. might be that.
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by the way, fuel filter goes this way right? IN: from tank OUT: to engine
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the IN is from where the fuel is coming from and out it to engine. oh and did you check to see if your CPS (crankshaft Position Sensor) is still good??? those sensors are a pain when they as they won't allow the fuel pump to work. search the forum for info on how to test it. there's LOTS of threads about it.
best of luck!
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just replaced it, and UPDATE: i hit my two last pumps with a rubber mallet and they now work, took a little wiggling with the battery to make them work, but eh, it works now! so I guess i really need to full my tank about 1/2 to make my pump cold enough. so guys: keep some gas in your beast, will save you 150 bucks! ill get back to you in a week to make sure thats the ''fix''
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You don't need 1/2 a tank to cool your pump, it just needs to have fuel running through it period. I had an issue exactly like yours, where the fuel pump died, I replaced it and then the car started acting like the fuel pump died again. It was the CPS, the sheathing gets worn and the sensor becomes intermittent. Though it does sound like you got it running again, but if it gives you any more similar issues look into it. I thought I had my problem solved numerous times, but every couple of days the sensor's signal would start going out and the car starting running as if it was out of fuel. Good luck.
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ho! thanks jimmy, ill try this out since my car doesnt run anymore like you said! god da*N it! but i love it so ill check the crankshaft pos sensor
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but he, all my pumps died, they dont just seem like they died, they actually did, so i tried testing the relay by jumping 30 and 87 and fuel pump relay and I hear a fuel noise from the return line after the fpr. And this doesnt sound good, its really loud. could this be a bad fpr??
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by the way, i dont get a check engine light for the cps sensor. i checked it, checked the omhs, no prob seemingly. what else could it be? what would cause a fuel pump to fail? all the little theets from the showing sprocket from under the pump broke on the three pumps. does this means its got too much pressure or not enough or the motor gets too much power or not enough?!?PLEASE!
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do you get full pump assy (with the mount and the strainer, ect) or just the pump itself??? i'd check the bottom of the fuel tank for sand/ debris, and also your strainer for crap. check if your fuel lines are clogged (both ways, TO the engine and the return line.)
best of luck!
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thanks, ill try that tomorrow and update. news to come.
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oh... and did you have any drivability issues??? like lack of power, crappy idle, wierd engine acting/bucking, ect ect ect..???
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ok update: i pushed compressed air in my fuel lines (both to the fuel rail and the return line) and some nasty grey white brown **** came out. so put some more fuel in it, started it with a new pump and VOILA! car runs. but runs okay lets say it that way, stalls from letting it go at 3000rpm and if i let go slowly it pops the check engine light. I turn off the car, stomp test, and I get 1252 (fuel injector num. 2). I just replaced the injectors, with the orings, checked voltage at all injectors and to all connectors, everything good. Would this happen if my gas is contaminated? cause i think theres some water in the tank (please, dont ask why!!:( )
Thanks b318m42w for your help, and other guys too. always a joy to come back on my pc and find new posts.
Charles
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still have some hesitation at idle, and it sometimes dies. if there was water in the tank, would this be the good symptons for an non gas only tank?
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How's your fuel pressure at the fuel rail? Is your fuel pressure regulator working correctly? To test it, run the engine at idle, disconnect the vacuum hose at the fpr. The idle speed should increase. Re-fit the hose, the idle should stabilise. Check this out to rule it out. Then check your injector harness. Are you sure you connected them in the correct way? Also check vacuum lines (need intake manifold off for this)
Then going back your original post above you said
check engine light sends the code 1215 (airflow sensor) but i just replaced the intake elbow, and did the throttle body hoses delete mod+ changed all intake gaskets. 2nd problem(but less important): my engine does a wastegate-like sound when reving, it seems to be an intake sound, but only when im rolling. anyways, what do you guys think of that?
Code 1215 (airflow sensor) this indicates that there is something wrong in the inlet circuit. I would test your airflow meter. On the M42 engine, the airflow meter (forward of the airbox, and behind the intake bellow), gives the engine ECU the signal for air mass entering the engine and also air temperature to determine air density so it can direct the injectors to spray the right amount of fuel. If the airflow meter is faulty, your engine will start but cut out immediately or even at higher RPM if you let the engine come back down to idle it could appear as if it may stall. The engine will not run without this signal.
Going off the E36 Bentley manual, test the airflow meter like so,
First check voltage - peel back the harness boot from the airflow connector. Find your pins, looking from the drivers side front wheel fender they should appear like so:
4
5 3
Blank
Blank 2
1
Turn on the ignition key, then check for approx 5V between terminal 1 and ground (earth). Turn off the ignition. If voltage is very low or absent, check wiring from airflow to ECM.
Next test, check the airflow meter itself.
Take off the intake boot, connect multimeter (in ohms setting), between terminal 1 & 2.
Swing vane inside airflow meter through it's travel and watch the resistance. It should change steadily without interuption. If this checks out move onto next test.
Now check the Intake Air Temperature sensor which is integrated into the airflow meter. Connect multimeter (in ohms setting) to terminals 4 & 5. Check the resistance depending on air temperature. Compare your results to these references:
1. 14 +or- 2 degress F (-10 +or- 1 degree C) Resistance should be 7-11.6 Kilohms
2. 68 +or- 2 degress F (20 +or- 1 degree C) Resistance should be 2.1 - 2.9 Kilohms
3. 176 +or- 2 degrees F (80 +or- 1 degree C) Resistance should be 0.27-0.40 Kilohms
I know this is alot of info to absorb but do it step by step. For resistance checks you don't need the ignition on. For voltage checks you need ignition on. Good luck and I hope to see your results on how you went.
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ok update: i pushed compressed air in my fuel lines (both to the fuel rail and the return line) and some nasty grey white brown **** came out. so put some more fuel in it, started it with a new pump and VOILA! car runs. but runs okay lets say it that way, stalls from letting it go at 3000rpm and if i let go slowly it pops the check engine light. I turn off the car, stomp test, and I get 1252 (fuel injector num. 2). I just replaced the injectors, with the orings, checked voltage at all injectors and to all connectors, everything good. Would this happen if my gas is contaminated? cause i think theres some water in the tank (please, dont ask why!!:( )
Thanks b318m42w for your help, and other guys too. always a joy to come back on my pc and find new posts.
Charles
POSSIBLE contamination of fuel. (not water, Poss. sugar or soda)
I know this sounds weird but I had a 7 come into shop about 2 months ago with similar prob. Took us forever to figure it out. Pull fuel pump and look carefully into tank with flashlight. Look at the bottom, fuel is lighter than warter and lighter than soda. Fuel WILL float on top of these liquids. Your pump sucks from the bottom of the tank it will suck up this crap. Pump will also get clogged, explaining why the pump worked after u banged on it. This car needed new pump, filter, injectors and fuel rail, we also sent the tank out to be cleaned. Yours may not need all this. We also got the same greenish/white powdery substance when we blew air in the fuel lines.
Pull injector 2 out and see if there is any builbup/blockage in the inlet
screen. Good luck. Hope this helps, I don't meen to scare you :(
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i had a similar problem mine turned out to be 1st torn filter sock 2nd clogged filter sock. i ended up buying a walbro 255 (can defintely tell its running, very loud), blowing out the lines and replacing the fuel filter ran like a top. Sad thing is shortly afterwards water pump failed, car over heated and cracked head. Just finished swapping a '95 ti motor (serpetine belt ftw electric fan ftw)and everthing seems to still work fine. Good luck