M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => Swaps, Turbos, Buildups => Topic started by: JoeDellio on April 02, 2009, 10:38:19 PM
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Just lookin on ebay, how would this do for a turbo build? i figure you cant get any better than this.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Plug-n-Play-Megasquirt-Stand-Alone-for-BMW-M42_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ33596QQihZ019QQitemZ290285797095QQtcZphotoIts
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PM TGlaze.
He'll do you right.
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holy shit look at the shipping!!!!
-danny, how much was you rMS from him, btw?
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If you'll read the description, the $150 shipping charge also includes a core charge which he is refunding upon receipt of a core.
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TGlaze, alright, Ill remember that. Im guessing its the same thing for cheaper. I wont be molesting my 318i until I am done with the rear end in my talon and some other things.
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625 from Todd (TGlaze)
Everything wired up and good to go.
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i think 550$ plus a 150$ of something which is not only shipping that i do not understand, for a ecu that also needs that sucking MAF is like putting money in the trash... i hope tglaze make ecu working without the air meter!
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I have mine running with no air-meter.
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i think 550$ plus a 150$ of something which is not only shipping that i do not understand, for a ecu that also needs that sucking MAF is like putting money in the trash... i hope tglaze make ecu working without the air meter!
$150 is the core for the computer, and if you actually read the link the ecu is designed to get rid of the stock MAF, not use it.
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you should just do it yourself, its not that bad, all you need is an electrical diagram, and from there its just finding the correct pin and soldering a wire to it
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you should just do it yourself, its not that bad, all you need is an electrical diagram, and from there its just finding the correct pin and soldering a wire to it
I thought about it just getting the program and doing that. The back of the one in my original link has only a couple wires on it, but I didnt want to mess it all up. My DSM's had such a huge aftermarket world that I didnt have to go just one route with anything for it. What Im saying is I never had to solder anything up for any kind of piggyback.
If I were to just do it myself could I get away from megasquirt and use just some type of AFC? Or would I have to get a real good chip to start out with then?
Just looking at somethings deeper now that I want to go turbo. I dont wanna spend anmore than $2500, because I could buy a turbo project car for that price and be a hell of a lot faster. I really just like having the idea of a turbo BMW. I figure at 11lbs on the right turbo I can make around 200HP which will be about the ballpark for a stock turbo I4, so itll be all around fun to drive without trying to build a "fast" car. Im sure people/kids post in here a lot saying there are going to turbo thier cars and know nothing about mechanics to begin with. I assure you guys Im not that guy, so I will be asking a lot of questions this year to those already boosted.
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I figure at 11lbs on the right turbo I can make around 200HP
More than that.
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More than that.
I should have been more clear. When I said the "right" turbo I didnt mean a big one, I meant the right one for my application. I want something that is gonna spool quick and that I can run around 11-12psi on and keep the HP in a safe run for the stock internals.
I was thinking of getting manifold flanged for a mitsu 14B, because I have one, along with some other left over stuff from my old car. The 14B is super reliable, its water and oil cooled, and it will make 280HP at 21lbs with a big intercooler (I would only run 11-12). It use to be able to hit 18lbs in my AWD by 2800rpms, but that was also on a 2 liter.
If money gets tight or I start going over budget Ill just stay with a T3/T4 manifold and get an ebay cheapy.
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And I'm telling you you'll have more than 200hp at 11 psi.
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How do you figure? The engine the turbo is coming off of is a 4G63t 2.0 and it is rated at 210HP at a stock setting of 10psi, the N/A 4g63 makes 150HP, so this turbo under 10lbs makes 60 hp, that added to the M42's rough 140bhp is about 200HP the way I figured. I didnt think running the same turbo/psi on a smaller engine would net higher HP. This isnt a big turbo at all. If it were a 60 trim, then yeah I could see that, the 14B is not a big turbo at all.
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Because the turbo is the only thing that has to do with horsepower right?
I didn't know that, you learn something new everyday I guess.
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And I'm telling you you'll have more than 200hp at 11 psi.
What turbo and psi are you running? It sounds like you have more than 200HP.
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I know bearsbmw is running an ebay turbo at 7 lbs and he has ~180whp.
I have yet to dyno mine.
There is more to making power than the size of the turbo.
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Because the turbo is the only thing that has to do with horsepower right?
I didn't know that, you learn something new everyday I guess.
It is the only thing that produces extra horsepower when you slap it on a stock engine. Did you adjust the stock cam gears to get more out of a higher redline or anything?
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Just forget it dude, slap on your turbo and be happy.
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There is more to making power than the size of the turbo.
Im talking about just upgrading to a turbo and tuning it, not cams or anything, just enough supporting mods for the turbo, a bigger turbo will make more power at the same psi of a smaller turbo. All I was pointing out is that the turbo Im using is relatively small compared to a 50 trim.
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Just forget it dude, slap on your turbo and be happy.
You obviously dont know much about turbo systems, just enough to slaps your on.
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You obviously dont know much about turbo systems, just enough to slaps your on.
Dude get the fuck out with that kind of crap. Don't ask for advice if you are going to be a little bitch about the answer.
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Dude get the fuck out with that kind of crap. Don't ask for advice if you are going to be a little bitch about the answer.
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/joedellio/WTFISTHISSHIT.jpg)
For starters, its bullshit you are gonna chime in with this garbage, when I couldnt even get several simple questions fucking answered after several attempts. I wasnt trying to argue with Danny at all, just get some easy answers he should know if hes turboed, or if he is gonna give me advice without proof of the statement he made.
Read the whole thread or GTFO. I never got an answer to be a little bitch about, he told me to just slap my turbo on it and be happy, so why are you all up in my shit when all I did is repeat what he said back?
All I asked was the simple question of how he figures I would make over 200HP @ 11psi on the turbo Im using, after he kept telling me I would with no explanation. It seems like he didnt know what I was asking, or what he was talking about, or what turbo I have, so he got fed up and told me to forget it, insinuating that I am an idiot.
All I needed was a simple answer of what turbo he dealt with that made that power, I didnt get an answer of what turbo he had, but he told me someone else has an "ebay turbo" at 7psi making 180HP, which doesnt tell me shit about the turbo. This is not how I wanted the thread to go at all, but if you would have followed the thread you could see where Im coming from and where the frustration built.
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t3/t4 hybrid.
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$150 is the core for the computer, and if you actually read the link the ecu is designed to get rid of the stock MAF, not use it.
thanks, i'm italian so i have some difficulty with technical arguments... (just for language not for doing)
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t3/t4 hybrid.
Alright, its probably a 50trim. Gas pump monster, 50 trim will make 400HP on 93 at 25-30psi. Is your lag bad? Nasty porting can help out there though. Ill have to get pics of my setup.
The main reason I am going with the 14b mitsu is because it is a 100K turbo that is proven reliable. Being oil and water cooled gives it good insurance too, no need for a TT. Im going to use the feed and return from the TB heater that I disconnected. Its just gonna be a little tricky doing the downpipe. The 14B has an internal gate so I have to run the DSM O2 manifold on it and then connect to a downpipe.
The only header I see out there some what reasonably priced is the OBX that is all over ebay, and Ive had N/A OBX manifolds on nissan KA's that have cracked on the welds. It anybody fabbing up any DP's that anybody knows of? Id love to find a ebay no name for $150 like every other car has.
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OBX is the way to go on the E36.
Not sure if the modified M50 manifold would work for you because it makes it top-mount.
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Ah, shit. I figured there was a difference between the e30 and e36 somewhere. I would think my car would have a little more room but I guess thats not the story. Is yours top mounted? Do you have any engine pics Danny?
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A few, I'll post them up after school.
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Thanks man. No rush.
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(http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e62/Lostnomore/IMG_8641.jpg)
(http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e62/Lostnomore/IMG_8645.jpg)
(http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e62/Lostnomore/0122090853.jpg)
(http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e62/Lostnomore/1229082318b-1.jpg)
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LOL damn u danny! So hawt... want to turbo my car. Stupid mortgage, car payment (wife's), etc.
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Awesome Danny. Looks like you got a T3 hotside. Looks good, I can see how the top mount would work out a lot better. Couple questions for you.
Any problems using your stock MAF as a blow thru?
Looks like there is 3 lines going to the turbo, where did you get your oil feed from? And what is the 3rd line going down by the coolant resevoir? Is that a coolant line, and I just cant see the other one underneath the turbo?
All in all it looks badass, did you mock this up yourself or did you get the idea from another car? Im just trying to figure if there is a good stock oil feed to go from before I drill, and what to do about the MAF. In my past experience I never had luck using a MAF in a blow thru setup, the turbo always forced the air in so fast the MAF couldnt read half of it.
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Any problems using your stock MAF as a blow thru?
Nope, worked fine until I pulled it for megasquirt ;)
Looks like there is 3 lines going to the turbo, where did you get your oil feed from?
I pulled oil from the plug under the oil filter, it would be better to T off the oil pressure switch though, which I'll do eventually.
And what is the 3rd line going down by the coolant reservoir? Is that a coolant line, and I just cant see the other one underneath the turbo?
The line running near the reservoir is the oil feed actually. You can see the two coolant lines going to the back of the motor, I reran one coolant line and put it in front of the motor now however.
All in all it looks badass, did you mock this up yourself or did you get the idea from another car? Im just trying to figure if there is a good stock oil feed to go from before I drill, and what to do about the MAF. In my past experience I never had luck using a MAF in a blow thru setup, the turbo always forced the air in so fast the MAF couldnt read half of it.
I got the idea from a guy on here named... George something. There is a decent stock oil fitting to go off but apparently it bypasses the filter.
Here it is:
(http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e62/Lostnomore/0122090840.jpg)
Thats right under the oil filter housing.
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Thanks, I thought your coolant lines were the oil lines. I researched that plug under the oil filter housing, but I read it was dirty oil like you said, Ill have to mess with the pressure sending unit anyways when I put in a manual oil pressure gauge.
Did you use the TB heater feed and return as your means for cooling also?
And when you put on the megasquirt did you delete the MAF all together, or what are you using now?
I really like how you have it top mounted, it would make it a lot easier if I could do that. I checked it out yesterday though and it would be a bitch. Id have to relocate the coil, delete my A/C (no way Im doing that in south florida), and my strut tower is just simply way too close to the valve cover.
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Did you use the TB heater feed and return as your means for cooling also?
No I just T'd off of some coolant lines that already existed.
And when you put on the megasquirt did you delete the MAF all together, or what are you using now?
yep, got rid of it all together, no need for it.
I really like how you have it top mounted, it would make it a lot easier if I could do that. I checked it out yesterday though and it would be a bitch. Id have to relocate the coil, delete my A/C (no way Im doing that in south florida), and my strut tower is just simply way too close to the valve cover.
Yeah I deleted my AC and moved the coils to the firewall where the battery tray is. I'm not excited for summer.
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Yeah I deleted my AC and moved the coils to the firewall where the battery tray is. I'm not excited for summer.
Im gonna have to fight to get intake and intercooler pipes past the A/C compressor and lines. Where are you located that no A/C is gonna suck?
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In the California Valley.
Bay Area ish.