M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => General Topics => Topic started by: asubimmer on July 07, 2006, 11:51:03 PM
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Well my thermostat went out wed, so I got home and ordered the new one. I decided to get the 75 degree one instead of the stock 88 one. Well it comes in today right before I go to work.
Problem is I need to go to charlotte in the morning. So when I got off work tonight I put the new thermostat in. No problems till I start to refill the coolant. Coolant starts leaking out. But its not leaking from a good place (like any is good :rolleyes: ). I look were its coming out and it looks like a hose clamp came off. NOT!! there is a plastic rail thingy and it broke off where the hose clamps on. and it broke off to short to keep using. I have a yard in gboro but I don't know if they have any M42's. BAHHHHHH!!!!! Not to mention I need to be in 10 places this weekend. When it rains it poors.
Look to where the screwdriver is pointing. What is that plastic rail thingy and where can I get it fast if my yard doesn't have one. I only have one car!!!
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how bad of an idea would it be to try to cap it off somehow and drive bout 2 hrs each way? I don't even know what I would use to cap it.
arrrrggg crap always happens at the worst times :(
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well off to the stealership, they say they have one. I'll post the part # when I get back. Apparently its a pretty common prob since the plasic is on the side of the engine black and get really hot, not to mention its 15yrs old.
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righty...11 53 1 714 738 $22.38
apparently its a common prob. so there you guys go. Have fun taking off the upper and lower IM ;)
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I replaced mine the last time I had the Manifold off. I think I'll delete it next time around.
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Ok guys I really could use some help. I replaced the thermostat and I'm still running REALLY hot. Like the car is past pegging out. Now I'm not driving it around since it started doing this but I have to test it like after I replaced the tstat. I replaced that plastic thing and the tstat w/ a new housing gasket. Its not my radiator and I don't think its my water pump. Is there a way to chech the pump?
Not to mention I think something may be fried, I guess the rebuild is coming before the turbo. Its making some funny sounds now. The only prob is right now I don't have the time nor have I set the funds aside to build it the way I want before the turbo. I was planning on doing that later down the road.
Odd thing is I don't feel like I've lost any power or anything. The car still drives and feels exactly the same minus the running REALLY hot and now weird noises from the engine :(
If anyone has a good M42 around NC that will let it go cheap you would be my hero.
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Bleed it with the little bleed screw on the top of the tank. #8 in the realoem drawing of the radiator.
Use a contact thermometer or one like the A/C repair folks use to rule out a bad guage or sending unit. I spent a day once chasing a bad guage by changing t-stats and water pump. Water pumps usually get loose in the bearing and leak or wobble if they're bad. Check the temp all over the place - radiator, hoses, cylinder head, all the little hoses, wherever. With the cap off the overflow tank there's usually a small stream of coolant at the top flowing into the overflow tank. Also open the heater core with the temp switch on the dash. Air sometimes gets trapped in the hoses, etc.
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the radiator just gets a little warm, the VC and IM are the things that are getting REALLY hot. I don't know and exact temp but pretty freakin hot. I've also changed the coolant. I didn't say that before.
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water pump? oh and if its getting into the red ur head is probably cracked
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water pump? oh and if its getting into the red ur head is probably cracked
well its been past red, and the check engine light came on. But it wasn't on for long at all. I shut it down. the check engine light was off when I restarted it later. There's not too much I can do b/c its my only car and I need to get to work and stuff. This is just really frustrating. Things like this happen at the worst times
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Bleeding it could be the problem. If there is an air pocket in the head around the temp sensors it could be part of it. Other than that, your problem is pretty bizzare. Have you pulled out the water pump to see what the impeller looks like? If it is one of the plastic ones it may have disintegrated as it has been known to happen. Good luck!
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^^thanks man, I am looking around for s50 pistons now and checking everything out incase I need to rebuild it soon. I guess I have to sell the t3 and get the holset now. So much for planning ahead. I guess its best this way in the long run. Who knows.
I changed the coolant after it started overheating. I guess the pump come out tommorro.
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was it losing coolant?
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was it losing coolant?
not till that plastic crappy rail thingy broke
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well its been past red
Congrats. You just f'd something up.
PEOPLE, DO NOT LET YOUR MOTOR OVERHEAT!
I would shut it down if it got past 3/4 on the guage.
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Its not the end of the world... when my alt. and water pump belt broke a year or so ago mine overheated to the point where the light came on. Ive driven it 30k miles since then and it couldnt be running better.
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Its not the end of the world... when my alt. and water pump belt broke a year or so ago mine overheated to the point where the light came on. Ive driven it 30k miles since then and it couldnt be running better.
When the alt belt breaks all the lights come on so it may not have been as hot as you think. You're right, its not the end of the world, just the end of an M42 :shrug
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Congrats. You just f'd something up.
PEOPLE, DO NOT LET YOUR MOTOR OVERHEAT!
I would shut it down if it got past 3/4 on the guage.
we'll see
I had no choice but to keep going when that happened. I was making a delivery for my job. I only have one car and thats what happens. I know the consequences but I had no choice.
I'll know when I take out my pump. But my guess is the tstat went out causing the pump wheel to melt and the plastic rail thing to brake. Thats what I think happened at the moment. I'm hoping nothing else happened but we'll see.
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the pump wheel is definalty not plastic.
you should get a compression tester
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well I am having a hard time getting the fan clutch off, like everyone. Whats the easiest way to get it?
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I think it's left handed threads. I tighten the belt, put a crescent wrench on the nut, push down on the belt, and hit the end of the crescent wrench with a hammer.
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When the alt belt breaks all the lights come on so it may not have been as hot as you think. You're right, its not the end of the world, just the end of an M42 :shrug
Your right, all the lights do come on. But my temp guage was also off the charts and coolant was boiling in the expansion tank. It definately overheated, pretty bad. It turned my expansion a yellowish brown color it got so hot. Now I must say, I thought my engine was screwed but all is well.
The DME also bumped the idle up to 2500 rpm to try and cool it down so im sure it almost toast when I shut it off.
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Sounds like you fucked up the head by letting it overheat. Warped or cracked perhaps?
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well the fan clutch is REALLY not wanting to come off. Good for me I have a milwaukee sawzall and a new water pump on the way. I'll post up some pics of the easy way to get the fan clutch up in the morning, I don't feel like "taking" it off in the dark.
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It is definately reverse threaded. You can also take off the fan the clutch and/or remove the water pump from the engine. Then it will all lift out with the fan shroud. Once it's out you can get medieval on it.
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The fan clutch payed for its crimes
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well there is one bolt in the water pump that is an allen bolt, all the rest are regular. Bad news is that it is rounded on the inside.
Tommorro I plan on dremeling a slot in it to HOPEFULLY get the bolt out. The new pump came in today and I would really like to get this back on the road soon so I can get the turbo on. Does the slot sound like the best way to get it out?
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ot in the bolt, covered it in wd40 and liquid wrech for the past two days and I am not having any luck. GUYS I REALLY NEED TO GET THIS OFF QUICK SO I CAN GET THE NEW STUFF ON!! I am really getting pissed w/ my engine. One of the bolts broke off in the engine when I was putting the tstat housing back on, now I can't get the old freakin water pump off for the life of me. I'm about to take my sawzall and cut the engine in half. If someone has any ideas or anything I would greatly appreciate it.
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Gasket sealer causes a lot of problems when it is slopped on too thick. It accumulates in threaded holes in cases, etc. and leads to stripped threads in aluminum and other soft alloys. Bolts break off when they are fatigued or overly torqued. Once I had a Hewland transmission case that accumulated so much of that orange silicone sealer that the hydraulic force cracked the case. Bolts can break or threads strip when they are bottomed out on a gob of that stuff but the parts aren't tight yet. What the previous owner and mechanics did is an unknown and sometimes it's just plain old steel/aluminum chemistry. I have learned the hard way to clean threads and lightly oil bolts or use anti-sieze. I put them in by hand before reassembly to check.
I know this doesn't help with your current problem but I share what must have been a moment of sheer joy meting out the punishment that the fan clutch so richly deserved!
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So putting a slot in the allen bolt didn't work?
See about getting a bolt extractor fitting and use it around the outside of the head. I have had some luck with these in the past.
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nahh the slot didn't work, I may just tow it to Korman and let them take it out. I'm just tired or screwing w/ it.
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My allen bolt was in the same condition and I used a set of lock jaw pliers to get it out. They must have gotten a deal on those allen head bastards! I can't see any reason for using just one.
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I was a bit worried, but my car did just fine at Miller Motorsports Park on Friday.
it was 105 degrees and the guage went slightly past the 12:00 position
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okey dokey, the new water pump is in there and I am putting everything back together. I decided to run some water through the radiator since its now the only old part of my coolant system. I took out the bleed screw and the cap, all the hoses were removed. When using a hose and putting water in where you fill, water came out from the drain plug. I closed the drain plug and water came out the bleed hole in the top. I covered the bleed hole with my finger and the water shot out of the fill hole. No water was coming out from the lower right hose hole. I then put my water hose in the lower right hole and water came out of the fill cap, drain plug and bleeder hole.
Is that all correct for the way it should flow? I thought that there would be water coming out the bottom right hole when I was putting water in the fill hole. But then it can go the opposite way so I think that may be fine?
kthanks
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There is less resistance through the tank on the side of the radiator than through the radiator. The drain is on the bottom of the tank. I would close the drain, remove the cap, and try to put water through the lower hose under pressure to see if the tubes are crudded up.
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welp, I put everything back together and I am at 1/4 almost all the time. If I drive it hard then I get almost up to 1/2. I am going to go to Korman in the morning to remove the bolt that broke off in the tstat housing and run a coolant pressure test. But all looks to be great now!