M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => Swaps, Turbos, Buildups => Topic started by: Awgy on March 25, 2009, 02:04:42 PM
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I must say after reading Danny707, Bearsbmw and tglaze's builds, I am just itching to start one myself.:D thanks for the motivation.
Goals are the same as Danny707 stated in his thread.
Parts that I do have:
Small turbo from a 91 Saab 900. (TE05 12B) I know... small.
22lb injectors from the same car.
Intercooler from the same car.
I traded a car that I had sitting around straight across for these parts at the local junk yard. I also got cloth seats from an e30.
As for the parts I dont have:
Turbo Header.
Fuel Pump.
Intercooler Pipping.
RRFPR.
Lines and Fittings.
PLX Wideband and Guages.
BOV (undecided) what even what to do about this.
and what ever else I cant think of.:rolleyes:
I have been doing some research for the parts that I dont have. Such as the RRFPR, I was thinking cartech but there has to be a cheaper solution for the same quality. Do you have any input on this guys?
OH... I have given myself a deadline. JUNE 1st 09
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Ebay BOV.
And any adjustable rrfpr will work.
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Nice, I'm hoping to finish my build early this summer too! all these builds are great
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Also, prepare for some headaches.
Its fun, but alot of work.
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Oh.. trust me, I am expecting some headaches. Do you have any pain relievers to help? I really dont want to start taking steps backwards once I go forward. And if (when) I do, I would like them to be small.
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Test fit everything before you bolt it up and get it going.
The m50 manifold's up-pipe is interesting to fabricate.
Just set aside a week and you'll have it done.
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As far as the BOV, I would look into a 1G DSM BOV, they are cheap on ebay (you could even get one for $20 locally) and they are a popular item for all makes of cars. They hold around 20psi in stock form and there is a mod you can do here http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_bov_mod.html to make it hold over 30psi.
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ibe been considering a turbo build but when it comes to a gas turbo motor im in the dark. i come from the turbo diesel world. we push 60+ pounds of boost without a wastegate,blow off valve. my 96 cummins 12v is pushing 980hp on fuel alone.
is the wastegate or BOV really necesairy?
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ibe been considering a turbo build but when it comes to a gas turbo motor im in the dark. i come from the turbo diesel world. we push 60+ pounds of boost without a wastegate,blow off valve. my 96 cummins 12v is pushing 980hp on fuel alone.
is the wastegate or BOV really necesairy?
You got it easy with diesel's, they pratically run on detonation. BOV has to get rid of the build up pressure in intake pipes when the throttle body closes or it can damage the compressor in the turbo causing it to come to a complete stop between shifts. With it open when you shift the turbine keeps spinning. Wastegate helps turbo spool up and build boost quicker, then at a set psi they open up, either to the atmosphere or rerouted back into the exhaust, so boost doesnt build sky high and destroy your engine. Your boost is dependent on the RPM's of the engine, the wastegate just controls how much of that exhaust the exhaust turbine really sees.
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stock diesels are wastegated. i understand the part about boost being dependant on r's. im making zero boost under 3500 rpms but it makes upwards of 60lbs clear to the 7100 rpm redline. im gonna do some more research before i build my manifold and get started.
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I have a little update.
PLX wideband is installed and works great!:D
I found a Mitsubishi BOV from an old SR20DET project that I had and forgot about. Part# K5T09
Ebay manifold is being shipped.
2.5" 2mm wall thickness intercooler piping is being shipped.
Just a few things left.
I found a oil filter cap from UUC Motorwerks that fits the E36 323, 325, M.
Does this fit are M42?
It comes with 2 1/8 holes for sensors. I was thinking of making one of the holes to a larger 3/8 for oil feed for the turbo. That is if it fits.
Here's a pic
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I just got a ref ticket, I'll be selling my whole turbo setup as a kit if you're interested.
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I already most of the parts to be buying a kit.
Just need a RRFPR and the cooland/oil lines.
Any chance of parting away with just the RRFPR?
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I don't use one anymore.
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You can inspire from here to if you find anything interesting.http://s284.photobucket.com/albums/ll4/george318/.It was so fun to drive it.
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I have a little update.
PLX wideband is installed and works great!:D
I found a Mitsubishi BOV from an old SR20DET project that I had and forgot about. Part# K5T09
Ebay manifold is being shipped.
2.5" 2mm wall thickness intercooler piping is being shipped.
Just a few things left.
I found a oil filter cap from UUC Motorwerks that fits the E36 323, 325, M.
Does this fit are M42?
It comes with 2 1/8 holes for sensors. I was thinking of making one of the holes to a larger 3/8 for oil feed for the turbo. That is if it fits.
Here's a pic
I have one of those, you only need 1/8" for turbo oil feed, if you go any bigger you may run into drain back issues
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Here is another update of whats happening. It looks like it will not be running by June 1st because this was a busy month for me.
I will be using one of these turbos. TE05-12b left, TB0363 right
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/Turbo%20build/TB0363TE05-12b.jpg)
TB0363 from a 88 volvo 760 2.3l
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/Turbo%20build/TB0363.jpg)
TE05-12b from a 93 Saab 900 2.0l
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/Turbo%20build/TE05-12b.jpg)
TE05-12b Exhaust flange next to the one I made for better flow
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/Turbo%20build/12bExhaustflange.jpg)
M50 ebay Turbo Header pics
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/Turbo%20build/M50TurboMani.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/Turbo%20build/M50TurboMani1.jpg)
Turbo Test fit pics
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/Turbo%20build/1stTurboTestFit1.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/Turbo%20build/1stTurboTestFit.jpg)
Im going to cut this way down to move the turbo in the correct spot and weld a flange on the end.
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/Turbo%20build/TurbotoManiAdapter.jpg)
Down pipe off of a 88 Volvo 760 turbo. Looks like I can use this.
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/Turbo%20build/VovloDownPipe.jpg)
Mitsubishi Bypass Valve. I am missing the bottom half. (adapter)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/Turbo%20build/MitsuBypassValve.jpg)
Bosch Bypass valve off a 93 Saab 900 turbo. I would like to use this one.
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/Turbo%20build/BoschBypassValve.jpg)
2.5" IC piping kit from ebay.
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/Turbo%20build/25inICpiping.jpg)
Intercooler from a 93 Saab 900 turbo. 2.5" inlet and outlet.
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/Turbo%20build/SaabIC25ininlet-outlet.jpg)
I will be getting oil and coolant lines Thursday and hopefully getting the adapter made for the turbo to manifold done as well.
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I used the same downpipe, just takes some interesting cutting and bending and welding.
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Here is the manifold all done.
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/DSCF1416.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/DSCF1418.jpg)
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Yep that'll do it.
If I were you I'd weld some little re-enforcement triangular plates to the flange at the top of the up-pipe. Trust me on that one.
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great work awgy! i found the same saab turbine! does the volvo downpipe fits also that one?
isn't the intercooler too little? i would go for a mercedes or a bigger one...
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great work awgy! i found the same saab turbine! does the volvo downpipe fits also that one?
isn't the intercooler too little? i would go for a mercedes or a bigger one...
The downpipe does bolt up to the turbo, as for it fitting I can only say it looks like it will.
I like the size of the IC, just not the input and output spots. Besides my local wrecker has limited selection of cars.
I rotated my comprssor for what looks to be a better fit under the hood. Also got the oil pan done.
Here is the factory groove to hold compressor from spinning free. Its at 9:30.
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/DSCF1428.jpg)
Here is the groove I put. Its at 7:00.
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/DSCF1429.jpg)
This is the compressor as of now.
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/DSCF1430.jpg)
And here is the pan.
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/DSCF1431.jpg)
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Ok, I bought a IC off of ebay for 75.00 shipped new. The deminsions are 23.5x7x2.5 with 2.5 inlet and outlet. The other IC I have is just to hard to mock up for plumbing.
Here are some pics of the IC installed.
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/DSCN3632.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/DSCN3634.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/DSCN3635.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/DSCN3638.jpg)
As for the turbo install, well.... maybe this monday tuesday. But my car just started the knocking sound in 1st and 2nd gear in the tunnel.:(
So it might wait a week. I just ordered a new guibo, driveshaft support and a guide bushinig.
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THE CAR IS NOW COMPLETE AND RUNNING BETTER THAN I THOUGHT! :D:D:D
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/Turbo%20Installed/100_1704.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/Turbo%20Installed/100_1707.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/Turbo%20Installed/100_1705.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/Turbo%20Installed/100_1706.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/Turbo%20Installed/100_1709.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/Turbo%20Installed/100_1711.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/Turbo%20Installed/100_1713.jpg)
I have been driving it for a couple days and no leaks that I can find. I installed a cooler thermo and colder plugs to help from pre det which I have not had either. The only problem I had was old hoses not handling boost. Something that I overlooked but fixed. AFR is at 12.2 - 12.5 under boost and 14.3 - 14.7 at idle and cruising speeds. My boost is 7psi. This thing rocks.
Hopfully I can get some vids soon. I dont have a video camera but a buddy of mine does. Ill try to get to a dyno sooner than later, and maybe a test'n tune night at Infineon Drags.
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^Very nice... Where'd you run your coolant lines? Oil feed? What do you think of the 4.10 diff now with boost?
I hope to have mine up and running within a month as well. Thanks Danny.
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Lookin good!
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Lookin forward to some videos and hopefully a dyno. Very nice work. Im super jealous.
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yea videos are a must this thing looks soo clean. what was the final cost of everything?
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Thanks guys, Heres a list and a total.
EASY STUFF...
TE05-12b turbo (91 saab)------Free \
22lb injectors (91 saab)--------Free = Traded a junk car
Bypass Valve (91 saab)--------Free /
M50 ebay manifold------------100.00
27x7x2.5 Intercooler-----------80.00
Ebay IC 2.5" 2mm thick Pipinp--80.00
PLX Devices DM-200 + AFR----500.00
Colder Thermo + Gasket--------45.00
Colder Plugs Bosch F6DTC------20.00
Hoses, Clamps and Tee's------100.00
Oil and Coolant----------------40.00
Braided oil feed line------------40.00
Various AN fittings-------------60.00
Various steel pieces------------Free scrap from local welding shops
Various couplers---------------40.00 elbows, reducers,
Harder Stuff.... only because
Welded M50 manifold-----------220.00 Because its stainless
Welded Barb to Oil pan----------80.00 Because its aluminum
Cutting disc's and drill bits-------60.00 Because you'll just need them
Various Hardware pieces---------30.00 Because its metric
Down pipe from danny-----------80.00 Because I got lazy
I think that's it. So the total is 1,575.00.:( Im sure I could have saved more but once I got going, I was swiping my card left and right.
I do have a vid of a cold start up. I cant get any other vids until i figure how to mount a camera inside or find a friend with a steady hand.
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/Videos/th_PLXAFRColdStart.jpg) (http://s84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/Videos/?action=view¤t=PLXAFRColdStart.flv)
As for a dyno... Im waiting for norcale30.com to figure out a date for a dyno day. Looks like with in a month or so.
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I still got that valence and fogs sittin here.
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Very nice build.
Do you know the part number you used for the Colder thermostat?
And where did you pull the oil feed from?
Thanks bud,
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BADASS!!!!!!!that's all I gotta say.
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Naika:
I dont remember the part # for the thermo, 75 deg celsius from bma.
There is a oil feed on the back of the block just like the front near the filter. I removed the bolt and took it to a hose & fittings guy, I ask him to match up threads from this and to my hose from the turbo. You can see it in the video some where in the begining.
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/100_1718.jpg)
Danny:
If you throw in the driveshaft Ill pick it all up. Mine is out of balance.
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^Very nice... Where'd you run your coolant lines? Oil feed? What do you think of the 4.10 diff now with boost?
I hope to have mine up and running within a month as well. Thanks Danny.
I ran the coolant from the throttle body heater hoses. I would like to run a 3.73 diff now.
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Sure I'll cut you a deal on the Driveshaft, give me a call.
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Thanks for the info on the oil feed, I'll check that out. Do you have any info on the thread and size of the adapter needed? by any chance...
I need to find a water cooled turbo!!!
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Nice build... very nice actually. LOL my m42 didn't idle that solidly NA let alone FI.
I got mine installed but it is far from running correctly. Not even drivable yet. It runs, but not well.
Where is your cam cover vent hose going? I have mine routed to the tb with a 1 way check valve (like on the brake booster). Was told this works...
EDIT: NM did some reading and that is not the correct way to run FI. I went and plugged the bottom TB port and just ran the hose from the cam covers down to the bottom of the car with a breather.
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only dreaming of doing this someday ...... :(:|
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need to know more about your RRFPR is it 8:1 or 12:1
what fuel are you using .. 91 octane?
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from the shape I suppose it's adjustable. It should be a old Cartech/Begi ones, but surely adjustable.
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Its a Jackson Racing adjustable one.
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Awgy... where do you have your ICV plumbed into?
I'm extremely jealous of your cold start and solid idle. Takes me 10 starts to get my car running, then after she is warm... she idles around 1050. And not solidly either... lol. I miss my motronic. :(
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Awgy... where do you have your ICV plumbed into?
I'm extremely jealous of your cold start and solid idle. Takes me 10 starts to get my car running, then after she is warm... she idles around 1050. And not solidly either... lol. I miss my motronic. :(
ICV is plumbed just like factory. I hear not to have it this way along with the afm in the charge pipe, but I have no problems what so ever. Im not saying there wont be in the future. Just until then this is the way its gonna be. The vavle cover hose is just ran to atmosphere.
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Here is a vid going down the hwy and back. The video is from a cheap camera on a bracket attached to the head rest. I got the idea from a post somewhere on here I think.
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/Videos/th_318iSTurbo.jpg) (http://s84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/Videos/?action=view¤t=318iSTurbo.flv)
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Hey Awgy,
I have a vacuum question.
I plan on buying a vacuum port, to feed the vaccum from the mani and then feed back out to the different locations.
Do you know how many vacuum connections you have? the vacuum ports are avail with 3-4-5-6 ports.
A list of vacuum connections would be awesome
Thanks bud
Franck
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Not sure how many Awgy has, but below is a list of mine.
1. boost/vacuum gauge & megasquirt MAP sensor (t'd off in the car)
2. bov
3. carbon canister
4. cam cover (this one just vents to atmosphere)
5. fuel pressure regulator
I believe that's all I have... so a 4 port would do you. Or a 5 port if you wanted to run the MS and boost gauge separately. That is assuming you're going to run the squirt.
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Here is a pic that shows what I got. Again not the best set up but works great for now.
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/Turbo%20Installed/Vacuumlayout.jpg)
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I'm going to try to plumb the ICV into the intake like you have done and see if I can get my ICV working. I had it with a breather filter on the end but that hasn't panned out yet.
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Thanks guys, that's exactly what I needed.
I'm not running megasquirt yet, just going with OEM ecu and light boost, about 6psi at most.
I thought the wastegate vacuum came from the turbo? basically I know I have pretty much three options to feed the vacuum to the wastegate but isn't the pressure from the turbo the most reliable? That's what I read in Maximum boost:)
Also, what do you call the carbon canister? the cone that plugs on the turbine side of the turbo?
Thanks again, I'm getting close to this build, really close ;)
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Thanks guys, that's exactly what I needed.
I'm not running megasquirt yet, just going with OEM ecu and light boost, about 6psi at most.
I thought the wastegate vacuum came from the turbo? basically I know I have pretty much three options to feed the vacuum to the wastegate but isn't the pressure from the turbo the most reliable? That's what I read in Maximum boost:)
Also, what do you call the carbon canister? the cone that plugs on the turbine side of the turbo?
Thanks again, I'm getting close to this build, really close ;)
I just capped the vacuum line on the turbo. Some turbos dont have this vacuum support.
The carbon canister is also called charcol canister.
The red circle is the carbon canister and the green circle is the line to tee into.
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/Carboncanisterdisc.jpg)
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Ok, thanks.
I'll have to check if my car has that here in Europe, I don't recall if it does or not.
I'm getting there, I'll post some pics once the car is running with the turbo installed ;)
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Hey mate,
Just wondering if you have dyno'd your car yet.
Very interested to know what numbers your putting out with this set up.
Congrats on an awesome build too :)
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Hey Awgy, Yet I have a few questions for you if you don't mind :)
How did you hook up your RRFPR? did you delete the oem FPR? I'm curious how to plug the RRFPR on the fuel line. I bought it used and I'm not sure how to hook it up
Also, where do you get your oil pressure and oil temp info from? I need to plug my guages and I'm not sure where to install the sensors
Thanks man
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RRFPR plugs into the fuel return line, just off the fuel rail.
For oil pressure and temp you T off the oil pressure switch light in the engine bay.
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thanks for the info but I honestly don't picture where it is in the engine.
Do I need to remove the OEM FPR? and which line is the return line.
ANy pictures of fuel return line and location where to get the oil press and temp from would be helpful
Thanks
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My thread shows where to get oil pressure/oil feed and temp from, though I don't see why you need oil temp. Coolant temp should be more than sufficient.
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don't remove the stock FPR.
The return line is the one on the right I think. unplug both and turn the car over, then you know which one is the feed and which is the return.
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Sorry if that sounds stupid, but how does the BEGI affect the fuel supply if it is installed on the return line?
ACschnitzer318is, I just went through your topic and couln't find where you mentioned where you hooked up your oil pressure.
I'm installing an Oil temp because I have an extra spot and I want to make sure it doesn't overheat, engine temps is the OEM in the guage and is only approximate to me
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RRFPR is installed in the fuel return line after the stock fpr.
RRFPR works by vacuum/boost controlling the return line by closing/restricting it, which raises fuel pressure in the fuel rail.
As for oil temp and pressure, I dont have either. But I do want to run a oil pressure. I would install it where my oil feed is coming from behind the block.
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ok thanks
I guess I'm going to have to come up with some adapter to install a pressure sensor and the oil feed then.
I see how the RRFPR works then, as far as tuning it, does it need any adjustments? I have a screw on top of mine, and to be honest more nipples coming out of it than I can figure out hoses for ???? it's crazy how little things can make life complicated I guess
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What kind of RRFPR?
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It's a BEGI, I have the in and out lines, then what seems to be the boost line, and another one with a little screw and a line with a filter on. On top of it there is a screw with what seems to be a lock nut, not sure if that is meant to tune it somehow?
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BEGI has the instructions online: http://www.bellengineering.net/PDF/FMU%20Instructions.pdf
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Big screw is an adjustment
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Thanks for the instructions, I've been looking for them ;)
I think I get it, I went through the doc quickly and that's the exact same as mine.
I didn't see if I need to plug the check valve back anywhere or does it just plug on the needle valve and sucks up the air going through the check valve?
Thanks again
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dyno this bad boy yet? or even an estimated hp gain?
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how's the car running?
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Curious as well.
Mine has been holding up splendidly and is due for a dyno tune sometime in the near future (2 months or less). Estimated rwhp is 205 going by some experienced buddies "butt" dynos. That's at 9 PSI.
Naika, you get your oil line situation figured out? My pics show it, but I guess not clearly. If you haven't figured it out let me know and I'll MS paint up some lines on it so you can see.
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how's the car running?
Curious as well.
Mine has been holding up splendidly and is due for a dyno tune sometime in the near future (2 months or less). Estimated rwhp is 205 going by some experienced buddies "butt" dynos. That's at 9 PSI.
Naika, you get your oil line situation figured out? My pics show it, but I guess not clearly. If you haven't figured it out let me know and I'll MS paint up some lines on it so you can see.
Car is running great, no problems what so ever.:D
I daily drive this thing all over, seeing how it my only car.
I made a new down pipe and did a new 2.5" exhaust all my self. I also painted the valve cover and intake manifold black. I would have posted pics but I've been kinda down lately having no job. Thats why I also have no dyno, but by the seat of my pants, I would say 170-180 on 7psi.
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^Sweet thanks for the update... minus the no job part. I know how that feels. Good luck on that front.
I daily mine too and have not noticed any adverse effects yet (~3000mi) other than I need to run a thicker oil on my next oil change because the turbo heats up my 0w40 too much. Switching to 20w50.
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I cant wait till I Finish my 2002 turbo....GOSSHH
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fifty when are you going to finish your 02? im having to sell mine
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Hi, i'm new here. I have a question - how do you manage the engine? only using RRFPR? Maybe i missed some? but i did not notice any describing that in your posts. And another - euro m42 has a 10:1 compression, is it dangeuros to boost up to 7-8 psi, like you did on your 9:1 USA m42?
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stan, there is no difference between euro/US M42. They both have 10:1 compression.
From everything I have seen 7-8 psi should be fairly safe. People are doing it with just a RRFPR and bigger injectors along with fiddling witht he tuning of the AFM. Honestly though if you can stretch you budget eitehr to one of tglaze's plug and play MegaSquirts setups or even an off the shelf piggy back system you will be much safer. To run boost you really want to control ignition as well as the fuel.
Good luck with your project and be sure to post your progress on the forums.
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Thank you for answer! I just don't want to change stock ECU, cause i don't have any exp. in such stuff and want to make everything by myself.
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what is ICV - interval control valve? what is that? where it is located?
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idle control valve
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Agwy where did you put your battery?
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You can relocate the battery in the trunk, using stuff from a 325, that gives much more space under the hood ;)
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that's the point - i don't want to move battery... so the question is - can i use m50 manifold to made bottom turbo? not to move coils
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You should be able to bottom mount using an M50 manifold, but you'd need to test fit it.
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Damnit. Just when I figured, "Hey, I'll just daily drive the new, pretty 318iS and leave it alone..." - Now I have to see what I can round up for yonder 6-7 psi if people are pulling around 205whp with little boost and basic engine management.
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^205whp will require 8-10psi. 180whp is 6 or 7psi. Just got all the parts I needed for boost control and 46lb injectors.... will let you know how many hp on 12psi ;)
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^205whp will require 8-10psi. 180whp is 6 or 7psi. Just got all the parts I needed for boost control and 46lb injectors.... will let you know how many hp on 12psi ;)
Sweet!
I just made my own manual boost controller from ACE. Im running 8.5lbs all day with no problems. 9.5lbs gave me some knocking so looks this is it until a new headgasket.
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Are you still on stock ECU and adjustable FPR? I had it run at 12lbs before without any knocking (up to 4000rpm, then ran out of fuel). But that's with the MS.
I'm going to the track tomorrow on 8+psi... will let you know how I fare. Haven't gotten the boost controller in yet... but the 46lb injectors are working perfectly.
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Isn't 46lbs injectors overkill?
When you mention a boost controler, you mean some sort of a valve inside the car to lower boost when cruising?
At 12psi, are you running on stock HG? simply with a good tuning? that's pretty good ;)
I thought 9 psi was the line not to cross, but maybe the MS is helping a bit
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46lbs injectors will be good up to 14psi thats what im at right now probably 260whp
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Isn't 46lbs injectors overkill?
When you mention a boost controler, you mean some sort of a valve inside the car to lower boost when cruising?
At 12psi, are you running on stock HG? simply with a good tuning? that's pretty good ;)
I thought 9 psi was the line not to cross, but maybe the MS is helping a bit
46lbs as boostede30 says is good for my boost level. With the MS in there I still get decent mileage as well. LOL on my last trip to Houston I got close to 40mpg, better than before the turbo.
The boost controller is a solenoid that increases the boost and stabilizes it by limiting the pressure your wastegate actuator sees. For example I have my actuator set to 7psi... if I set the controller to 12psi it will make the pressure the actuator sees at 12psi equal to that of what it used to see before the controller was put in (7psi). There are manual ones and electric ones... you can even control it with megasquirt, which I am trying to work out now.
I am running stock head gasket. With the boost controller I am going to do 12psi up to 5000rpms and then drop down to 10psi to redline in an attempt to have the head gasket last longer. But I think it's only a matter of time before I have to do a new one with o ring'd head and ARP studs.
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Thanks for the explanations, I'll check your thread if you have any pics of that ;)
Question, I need to get spark plugs and oil for my turbo M42, what do you guys use?
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1 degree colder NGK spark plugs, and mobil 1 20w50 for the oil. Has to be thicker to cope with the temps of the turbo. I was using 10w30 but the turbo was thinning it too much for my liking.
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1 degree colder plugs from bosch and valoline 20w50
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Thanks ;)
any part number for the plugs?
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Did you ever get around to dynoin this bad boy?
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nevermind
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need to know more about your RRFPR is it 8:1 or 12:1
what fuel are you using .. 91 octane?
8:1 of what means? explain pls..
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so yer still running on your stock fuel pump and OEM ECU? thats pretty cool. can we get a pic of the oil feed hookup on the back of the head in the car? any reason why you chose to run an oil/water cooled turbo instead of a straight oil cooled? thanks for the info, im about to turbo my 318is soon, gonna try to use the OBX m42 manifold/downpipe with external dump wastegate.
also how are you guys adjusting the timing on m42?
Thanks guys, Heres a list and a total.
EASY STUFF...
TE05-12b turbo (91 saab)------Free \
22lb injectors (91 saab)--------Free = Traded a junk car
Bypass Valve (91 saab)--------Free /
M50 ebay manifold------------100.00
27x7x2.5 Intercooler-----------80.00
Ebay IC 2.5" 2mm thick Pipinp--80.00
PLX Devices DM-200 + AFR----500.00
Colder Thermo + Gasket--------45.00
Colder Plugs Bosch F6DTC------20.00
Hoses, Clamps and Tee's------100.00
Oil and Coolant----------------40.00
Braided oil feed line------------40.00
Various AN fittings-------------60.00
Various steel pieces------------Free scrap from local welding shops
Various couplers---------------40.00 elbows, reducers,
Harder Stuff.... only because
Welded M50 manifold-----------220.00 Because its stainless
Welded Barb to Oil pan----------80.00 Because its aluminum
Cutting disc's and drill bits-------60.00 Because you'll just need them
Various Hardware pieces---------30.00 Because its metric
Down pipe from danny-----------80.00 Because I got lazy
I think that's it. So the total is 1,575.00.:( Im sure I could have saved more but once I got going, I was swiping my card left and right.
I do have a vid of a cold start up. I cant get any other vids until i figure how to mount a camera inside or find a friend with a steady hand.
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/Videos/th_PLXAFRColdStart.jpg) (http://s84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/Videos/?action=view¤t=PLXAFRColdStart.flv)
As for a dyno... Im waiting for norcale30.com to figure out a date for a dyno day. Looks like with in a month or so.
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Here is a pic of the back of a spare block. There is a bolt (removed) on the back of the block that plugs a possible oil feed line. I removed the bolt and took it to a local hose a fitting guy and told him what I wanted.
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/Turbo%20build/100_1934.jpg)
I am still running on stock ecu and fuel pump with no problems. Timing is also stock. Thats why I can't exceed 8psi.
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I am still running on stock ecu and fuel pump with no problems. Timing is also stock. Thats why I can't exceed 8psi.
8psi is fun too. LOL and I'll bet yours handles load changes better than my MS1. Stupid no ICV.
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Here is a pic of the back of a spare block. There is a bolt (removed) on the back of the block that plugs a possible oil feed line. I removed the bolt and took it to a local hose a fitting guy and told him what I wanted.
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/Turbo%20build/100_1934.jpg)
I am still running on stock ecu and fuel pump with no problems. Timing is also stock. Thats why I can't exceed 8psi.
I wouldn't run around too long on a rrfpr . I have seen alot of thing's go wrong including fires :( 100psi at the rail is too much load for the stock fuel lines
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I wouldn't run around too long on a rrfpr . I have seen alot of thing's go wrong including fires :( 100psi at the rail is too much load for the stock fuel lines
Wouldn't that be the stock fuel hoses? The metal lines should handle that right? Is there any way to improve the hoses going from the metal lines to the rail?
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Wouldn't that be the stock fuel hoses? The metal lines should handle that right? Is there any way to improve the hoses going from the metal lines to the rail?
The metal lines are of course plenty strong. 1. inside the tank there is a rubber short hose that can split and give you a pressure loss in boost but car still seems to idle and drive fine and then you will pop the motor. 2. between the tank and the steel lines are badly worn out and rubber is cracking . 3. between the fuel rail and the steel lines will develop a fine mist leak witch will fill the engine bay with vapors and eventually explode when the vapors hit the hot manifold. 4. the injectors can pop out of the rail even with the clips in place (fuel can get past the orings)
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NICE! Obviously not what we want happening... So what is the "correct" solution, so to speak?
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Bigger injectors with a tune that flow a good amount at 50psi , and Motronic chip tuned or another standalone system is the correct solution
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nice build! looking forward to see some #'s!
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Bigger injectors with a tune that flow a good amount at 50psi , and Motronic chip tuned or another standalone system is the correct solution
So 30lb injectors and a war chip would put me on the right path? I want to play with a war chip anyway, so that's already on the list. Is there no fuel line solution that would safely handle increased pressure? I like to go overkill whenever possible.
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So 30lb injectors and a war chip would put me on the right path? I want to play with a war chip anyway, so that's already on the list. Is there no fuel line solution that would safely handle increased pressure? I like to go overkill whenever possible.
30Lbs will support 8-10psi depending on what size of turbo you end up with...The war chip or Ostrich 2 is the perfect solution for the DIY tuner... I would say never go over 75psi on the stock lines to be safe...Also invest in 42LB injectors in case you want to run more boost later and keep the injectors at a safe duty cycle %
Good lucK!
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I was talking to todd (tglaze) about buying his manifold, and running a setup very similar to his. I don't think I want to monkey with ms, as it seems like a lot of work for a dd. When I retire her from daily duty, I'd like to consider running e85 and more boost though, so big big injectors (~42% bigger) and matching fuel delivery. Is there any way to run AN braided fuel lines? I haven't seen anyone running those, and when I was a little tyke in the garage, I was taught this was the only way to go.
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Here is a pic of the back of a spare block. There is a bolt (removed) on the back of the block that plugs a possible oil feed line. I removed the bolt and took it to a local hose a fitting guy and told him what I wanted.
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/awgy/Turbo%20build/100_1934.jpg)
I am still running on stock ecu and fuel pump with no problems. Timing is also stock. Thats why I can't exceed 8psi.
What about pistons, head gasket and vlaves are they also stock?
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hey what type of oil are you using
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20w50 Valvoline conventional