M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => Engine + Driveline => Topic started by: fiftytakedowns on February 10, 2009, 12:32:39 AM
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Recently Got a 1991 318is not to long ago.
The car runs well, and drives well ONLY when FULLY warmed up.
PO said the ICV could be bad, but I took it to a shop, and they said all need to do is clean the ICV (regarding the ICV problem). So I cleaned it iwth some brake clean shook it up and repeated.
Symptoms.
Car starts fine, and idles a little rough, with some minor surging, not noticable by RPM, only by ear.
If I put it in gear and start to drive before the heat needle is smack dab in the middle. It will rev up to about 2.5, and Bog down with my foot is on the gas. If I take my foot up, and try again it will rev up a bit more, then bog down again. sometimes it will bog down, and get spurts in and out of normal driving conditions.
Goes away once warm.
I also found out that the PO had deleted the Heater plate, not sure what else he has done,
but he said it could use a dinan chip, and yet the car will willfully rev to about 7000. seems like it does not have a limiter, or there may be a chip in the car already.
could this affect the car when it is warm with milage etc...?
Clean air filter P.s.
2002 guy that found an E30 as a daily
I dont know much about e30's but I have searched a bunch.
Thanks
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Sounds like a coolant temperature sensor
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I'm guessing massive vacuum leaks underneath your intake manifold from the previous owner's bodged attempt to remove the TB heater plate. See the link in my signature for more details. These cars have all sorts of issues with cold weather so you're definitely not alone.
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To check for vacuum leaks, dont I get a propane bottle, and if it changes the idle i am in the right spot?
Im compiling a to do, and possibility list of problems.
In addition, I noticed on the (messunder the intake thread) that my ICV is upside down. The Big bulky part with the wire boot is on top, while the connectors to the hoses are on the bottom. Not sure if it makes a difference though.
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There is an arrow on the ICV that should be pointing toward the manifold. For the vacuum leaks, don't worry about using a propane torch. I would just take a very close look with a flashlight to check for cracks, loose hoses etc. Pretty much every M42 has this problem. Its a matter of age.
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The arrow is pointing towards the manifold, but it is upside-down
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I took a look at the engine bay looking for anything that could be corroded or any leaks that could occur. There was definitley no vacuum leaks that were obviously apparent. The hoses were all replaced by the PO.
I am stuck upon what could be the problem. I have to wait about 10 minutes to drive the car, or else it will agressively bog down at 1500 RPM. Sometimes sputter.
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02 sensor.
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Check the "did we ever figure out the warm start issue" thread. If it applies to you great, if not, oh well it only takes 5 minutes to check and see if your wire is plugged in or not. Remember the wire should be disconnected for all US e30s with cats. Mine was plugged in after engine rebuild and did what you described for over a year until that thread.
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Check the "did we ever figure out the warm start issue" thread. If it applies to you great, if not, oh well it only takes 5 minutes to check and see if your wire is plugged in or not. Remember the wire should be disconnected for all US e30s with cats. Mine was plugged in after engine rebuild and did what you described for over a year until that thread.
+1
i didnt think of that.
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consdering the cat is bad, and rattling under the car, (supposedly replaced) AHA! it might be it,, Ill check when I make it back home
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Mine had a similar problem. When the engine speed/idle starts going crazy do you get a check engine light? If so, best bet would be to take it down to your friendly neighbourhood mechanic and get them to scan it (even if the light goes out the error is saved - if you search this forum there is a low tech way to get this info involving turning the key on and off and pressing the gas - i'm not joking - search it).
On a related note - I had virtually the same problem, turned out to me the mass air-flow meter - sadly, $800 new from BMW - but happily $40 on craigslist. (Also, I've noticed that on this forum any and all idling problems are always traced back to the ICV or vacuum hoses. This might be right 90% of the time, but after I replaced my air flow sensor I noticed that engine response was much better and cold startup was dramatically improved)
Cheers,
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One other note - I used an air flow meter from a 1992 e36 m42 - different part number but is still works (possibly even better than stock??). search junkyards.
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My check engine light only goes on sometimes, right after I turn on the motor, then it goes away after a couple of minutes. never goes on when I am driving though.
I will try the engine codes thing. see what I can get.
I might have an easier way to describe the problem also.
as the car warms up the number(Rev) for which it chokes out, and the motor decelerates increases at the same rate as the needle moves along the temp gauges. For example chokes out at 1500 RPM completely cold and then 2000RPm at about 1/4 distance, etc... Also chokes out or bogs, when I am just revving up the motor.
There is also a bumpy,surging Idle until the motor is cold.
Thanks
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how do I check if the AFM is faulty, I would like to order some parts, and make a junkyard parts list for tune up and to fix this problem.
so bump
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http://www.justanswer.com/questions/182xa-check-air-flow-meter-fault-car
This describes a later model AFM but I'm pretty sure it's the same for all the 4 cylinders.
how do I check if the AFM is faulty, I would like to order some parts, and make a junkyard parts list for tune up and to fix this problem.
so bump
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thanks, Ill see If I can find any of that equipment.
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bump so I can figure out what parts to order, and check
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No luck on that wire eh? Do the stop test and get your code...
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Im confused about getting the code, I think I am doing it wrong.
I turned on the key pressed the gas threetimes, no code. Then I tried multiple combinations of turning the Key on and Off with pressing the gas and got no codes.
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turn the key to "on" and push the gas pedal 5 times to the floor within 5 seconds. this should start the code giving. they are 4 digits and start with 1.
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Okay I finally am able to look at my car because I am home, I tried multiple things, First tried looking at the plugs, and they were good. Secondly, unconnected battery and waited to reset the computer.
I unhooked the AFM and it made the problem that I was having 20 times worse.
New related problem also. At about 3500RPM on the freeway occasionally the car will have a loss in power, not quite bogging, but as iff there is no explosion in the combustion chamber. In addition it may have "bounces" in power where the motor will jump a bunch until I have fully accelerated out of it.
during the warm up phase, as it bogs down it backfires if I keep my foot on the gas.
Thanks
turn the key to "on" and push the gas pedal 5 times to the floor within 5 seconds. this should start the code giving. they are 4 digits and start with 1.
Tried this, no codes, then I made a fool out of myself by trying other ways I can find out.
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*sigh*
I took it to my shop, and replaced the coolant temperature sensor, triple checked for vacuum leaks, and cleaned out the AFM, in addition to attempting to adjust it with the little screw behind the plug. Not much of a help..
Checked fuel pressure, checked plugs, both good.
I am guessing it is probably the AFM, because when we searched for vacuum leaks with brake clean,inake cleaner (the fumes change the idle) it smoothed out the idle when it was at the very beginning of the Intake before the filter.
also plugged in a BMW Diagnostics computer. No help. It had diagnosis for codes except for 10. and that was the number we got. (we plugged the mini computer into the jack right near the brake fluid at the lip of the hood.
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Bump for justice
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PM me next time ur in San Rafael on a weekend. I can take a look at it if you want.
cheers
Justin
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I replaced the afm did not affect anything. My milage seems down, but not sure what to compare it too and no odo.
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Coilpacks
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o2 sensor, coilpack, or that little wire I mentioned earlier... did you ever check that wire?
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I checked that wire, and have plugged it unplugged it, I leave it unplugged though.
Justin Came over and we did some serious inspection, and elminated
Vacuum leaks
Main computer
coolant Temp sensor
AFM
ICV is not buzzing..... when It was unplugged The idle smoothed, when cold, though it became a bit more lumpy.
Also Squeezed the hose going into the ICV, and it did not change anything.
also read code 1244 after inspecting a bunch,but previously it was 1215, but I checked the AFM's were both good.
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I was thinking about how you mentioned yesterday that the head has been rebuilt. Maybe they messed with cam timing or rebuilt it incorrectly. It seems to me like you have 2 distinct issues. First, the engine idles extremely rough. I'm guessing new injectors, spark plugs, wires are in order. The valve cover has to come off anyway in order to fix the oil leak at sprak plug #2. That'll be a good time to inspect the timing gear.
Secondly is the stumble issue. I'm guessing thats ECU related. Mine does it too some times.
I have these injectors sitting here on my desk. We can pop those in next time, clean out the manifold and reseal everything. Also need to find a few more nuts to secure the manifold brackets properly.
cheers
Justin
edit:
Remind me that I have an extra rubber intake elbow that's in pretty good shape. The one you have in there looks shot.
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So far I have replaced the Coils, Coolant temp sensor, Replaced the ICV, Cleaned the ICV, replaced the AFM, checked for vacuum leaks. I CAN NOT FIGURE THIS OUT!!
motor still pulls a coil 1 code 1271
The engine still hiccups, and bogs until completely warm
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When REvving up the hose that is POST the ICV sucks in.
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Like... it is collapsing? If this happens it will cause the car to bog. Common problem, you have to use still hosing, or use a plastic splice in the middle of the hose that will prevent it from collapsing.
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Ohhh, so I have to put a little skeleton into the hose?
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Well
put skeleton into hose, no more Hose Collapsing, however car still bogs. :(
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"Recently Got a 1991 318is not to long ago." I just thought this statement was funny.
I thought recently and not to long ago were the same thing. Ha.
Thanks for the comedy Fiftytakedowns.
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"Recently Got a 1991 318is not to long ago." I just thought this statement was funny.
I thought recently and not to long ago were the same thing. Ha.
Thanks for the comedy Fiftytakedowns.
I keep it real
:cool:
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True.
LOL
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My 95 318is has similar cold start issues, along with some hesitation/surging/bucking in 1rst gear just off idle. My fuel mileage has decreased within the last year from mid to low 30's to barely 30mpgs now. I changed the air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, oil & filter and belt very recently. I ran some fuel injector cleaner thru a full tank just before that.
I am going to try a coolant sensor, ICV cleaning and o2 sensor next. I really love my car and would love to get this fixed.
Im going to keep plugging away at it and keep checking this thread to see if anyone else has success and what fixed theirs...
Rich
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I jsut changed fuel, oil, and air filter yesterday
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Did you run checks on the coil harness/connector? I'd be tempted to run resistance & continuity check on that harness & the plug leads, but it sounds like a PITA.
Maybe the plug resistances too, while it's all apart...sometimes they're out of spec.
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I probably need to get one of those multimeter testors now.
Otherwise I have no Idea how to test the plugs/ plug leads.
What is odd is that the car runs perfectyl fine once it is fully warmed up.
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Absolutely...get a cheap one to start. Any parts shop should have a decent one. Fluke makes great ones that start around $60. Sears has good ones too.
You might be surprised at how useful it really is...I'll bet I use a DMM more often than any other tool on my cars & bikes.
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NEW symptoms
I went on a trip to LA
got 27 MPG :/ not very good at roughly 75/ 80 mph the whole time.
Also I put the car in Nuetral when going down the grapevine.
After cruising at 85 mph down the hill for a couple miles I finally put it back in gear and got ready to cruise the blank flat highway.
Well when I put it in gear the car was jumping, buckig and hesitanting, as well as Bogging. Every once in a while cruising at 75 the car would do one buck, or maybe two then keep on going... kinda scary when cruising a 450 mile highway.
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bump?? read above post
anyone have links about the 02 sensor retrofit?
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Like... it is collapsing? If this happens it will cause the car to bog. Common problem, you have to use still hosing, or use a plastic splice in the middle of the hose that will prevent it from collapsing.
I did this, still not fixed..
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Picked up a stock ECU, and a camshaft sensor at a Junkyard today. When I swapped in that ECU it gave me a 1244 code which is the camshaft sensor, so I will swap them tommorow and give it a shot. However, The Other computer (with a MARK D) chip in it runs the car much better than the other, however it spits out a coil 1 code 1271.
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Now I swapped in the camshaft sensor.
runs a little smoother, but did not fix the problem.
one ECU spits out a 1444 code, while the other still has a 1271
any ideas?
02 sensor is next on my list.
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Did you carefully check the main rubber inlet tube for cracks, IE take it off and clean it and flex each bellow in the tube looking for a crack?
Dave
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Last time I checked, a little while ago it seemed okay. but a new Shiny one wouldnt bother now would it?
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I think mine was 25 or 28 bucks at the local dealer...
Mine drove me crazy cause I couldn't see any cracks, when I took it off and sprayed degreaser/cleaner inside it weeped through lots of little cracks in the bellows. You could not even see daylight through them.
Dave
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those little cracks would cause a huge bogging problem?
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Made a youtube video showing the problem
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eu5npniUyl4
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yOu guys give up on me or what????
I swapped in a new fuel filter not to long ago.
Ive replaced my idle control valve with about 3 that I have seen in Junkyards. POST ICV the Hose seems to be collapsing. So I doubt that all 4 ICV I had are bad.
I have two computers
one with mARK D:
says I have bad coil one. *1271
- I did COP and it still said I had a bad Coil one. They Guy I bought the COP from (ZMblueDEvil) told me that he had been using them on his car with no problems.
2computer : all stock
said I had a bad Cam sensor, which I then Replaced, now it says I have no problems *1444
This Morning I tried fiddling with THE 02 sensor bypass plug plugging, and unplugging, with no Difference. however after Revving the car a couple times, it sortof smelled funny, like stinkbomb/ sulfur or something.
Plug I fiddled with:
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_b8Z4JG2u6eo/SX-rHkG9B5I/AAAAAAAAAkw/mpjrcgK8zy4/s640/0188ed8.jpg)
checked the fuel pressure When I first got the car, which was good, but not the fuel pressure Regulator, (any info how to test it?)
Is there a distinct way to tell if the ICV is working? I cleaned mine multiple times. I'll post up another video in the engine bay if that helps.
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Well, it'd be the first time I'd suggest replacement of the throttle position sensor on any cable-style BMW, but since you've replaced practically everything else, why not try swapping a known good one in to see if that fixes it? What about plug wires, did you replace those yet? Did this problem exist always since you've owned the vehicle?
EDIT: Also, cam sensor faults can be a sign of timing being off - I would double check this as well (you need the cam jigs and flywheel pin).
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I Just spent a couple of hours goin over it all...... again....
This time I busted out my manual, and a multimeter to go and test the sensors.
I confirmed that the TPS is for sure Good. and the Coolant temp sensor is perfect. The Air flow meter sparked some question, but it followed what the manual said:
I tested the resistance between terminal one and two, and according to the manual it said that as the flap moves the resistance to change smoothly. So as it was moving along the flap it started at a resistance of 4k ohms, and moved up to 8K ohms as it neared half way, and changed smoothy to 2k ohms when it was fully open. It seems like it would continue to move to a higher ohm, but it instead has more like a plateau sort of reading.
I went over the IDle control valve. The old valve was stuck, so I tried to pry it open with a screwdriver, because I had really nothing to loose, and I just wanted to see what would happen in sort of a destructive way. well, it broke internally, and I replaced the ICV with a spare I had.
In the Manual it says that the ICV should be buzzing. when I had both ICV's hooked up, niether seemed to make a loud buzz. When I did the Screwdriver stethoscope sort of deal i heard a faint buzz, but it was so faint it seems like it could be confused with something going on with the motor. The Main boot was inspected for cracks, and it was good to go, as well as other lines in the system. One Concern was the oil bypass line that hookled up to the throttle body. It is a faintly bigger size hose, but it was tightened down VERY very tight, so that I doubt any air would be traveling through, I cleaned, re adjusted, and inspected some more.
Upon removing the intake Boot I saw that there was some White sludge in the oil. I was thinking to myself. fuck fuck fuck I hope my headgasket is OK, but I checked the oil, and found no coolant in the oil, or anything else. When I was checking to see if any more of that was coming from that oil vent line, and it was Not. even when running the car, no more oil was being vented from the vent.
I also tried running the car Without the ICV and I just got a mad erratic Idle, and still a bogging issue.
I cant say I really made any progress, but I just wanted to check all the sensors to see if they are allright. any tricks to find vacuum leaks If there are any? propane? This problem is driving me nuts, and it really sucks having to take 15 minutes to wait for the car to Fully warm up all the time in order for the car to really Work.
Is there A way to tell the computer the car is warmed up all the way all the time? A coolant temp sensor bypasser or something? to see if it works in that sense?
Ill take a look at the Cam timing this week too.
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ANOTHER VIDEO
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NF3NEp_dnX4
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tested the crank position sensor 512 ohms ... think its somewhere around 550 is specs.
camshaft sensor 1251
ICV is getting 11Volts but not sure if working
IDled much better when disconnected.
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bump?
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I had the same problem. My Snap-on dealer read my codes and the AFM and O2 was flagged. A new AFM is around 600 bucks, OUCH! I bought a serviceable Bosch AFM on Ebay. Believe it or not, once it got really cold here I finally noticed a crack in my intake bellows that I couldnt see previously. I taped it up as a temp fix until my new one gets here. Completely fixed my cold idle and surging problem! Under 30 bucks from Pelican. If you decide you want to replace your AFM, I have a spare. I would definitely try a new intake bellows before you spend any more money or time. Unless yours is new. It is the flexible link between the AFM/airbox which is solidly mounted to the body and the engine which naturally moves around a bit, especially at start up and shut down. Over time they deteriorate andstart to crack. I couldnt even see the cracks in mine until a couple days ago.
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you can spray carb cleaner on your hoses to test for vacum leaks if there is a leak then your car will rev up, but
i bet its somthing simple, my engine was bogging and sputtering because i accidently mixed up 2 spark wires, took me 4 days to figure out thats what did it and before i figured it out i ended up replacing like 6 diffrent parts ha...
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I'll try swapping the 4, and 1 coils, see if that does it.
What confuses me is that It runs perfect when warm though..
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NOT the Idle control Valve. just tested, and have a good working one.
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hey guys, same problem here (I FEEL YOUR PAIN!!! IT SUCKS!!). engine boggs is sluggish and unresponsive when outside temp is 60F or below and until the temp needle is out of the blue, although it idles on it's own alright unless its in the 40s outside, but even then it holds it's own. all my resources (mostly you guys) have led us to believe its the AFM, however the O2 sensor and coilpacks seem like a high possibility. We've gone through the same motions as well, replaced all the coolant hoses, coolant temp sensors, camshaft pos sensor, intake bellows. TPS seems to be working as per multimeter specs, and ICV killed engine when we unplugged it (although no audible 'buzzing'), so it's assumed that it's working as well. Haven't tried testing the AFM (trying to find one that won't break the bank) or seeing if the O2 sensor is too bad to work. Have you tried those fifty?
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My AFM's are good.
No idea on the 02 sensor
my thoughts are:
-bad comp/ grounding wire in harness. (I have two computers I have been using to test)
-Vacuum leak that is out of intake area.
-crank position sensor
-02 sensor
today I really really really serached for a vacuum leak. and I have all the symptoms but no dice. I went with propane, Brake clean, carb cleaner to try and find some problem. The car putters when it is idling, then comes out, smooths, then putters for about 5 secs on 5 secs off. Otherwise it bogs agressively, at 1.5K rpm until warm and misfires, hesitates at 3.5k when almost warm, and nothing when completely warm.
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It seems as if when the car is bogging the Fuel is completely shutting off, or the spark is completely stopping.
car makes popping/ minor backfire noises if I hold throttle open when it is bogging down.
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LEts assume I just encountered this problem, What series of tests would you conduct to try and pinpoint the problem, being fuel, or spark related?
worst comes to worst I may put in a resistor in the coolant temp sensor.
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not sure if this helps, but SOMETIMES if it starts bogging down, and I floor it, the car Violently jerks between bogging, and actual ignition, like Sputtering of working and non-working.
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Have you taken a really, really good look at your intake bellows yet. I see you have been fighting this for almost a year. If there are any cracks at all it will cause similar symptoms. 30 bucks for a new one to remove it from the suspect list, unless you have already done so.
I bought an AFM after my codes were read only to find a crack in my bellows, which was in fact the root of the problem.
Only trying to help, if you already replaced it or are 100% sure yours is good disregard my post.
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Have you taken a really, really good look at your intake bellows yet. I see you have been fighting this for almost a year. If there are any cracks at all it will cause similar symptoms. 30 bucks for a new one to remove it from the suspect list, unless you have already done so.
I bought an AFM after my codes were read only to find a crack in my bellows, which was in fact the root of the problem.
Only trying to help, if you already replaced it or are 100% sure yours is good disregard my post.
I took it out, and examined it very carefully. no internal cracks at all. There was a minor crack on the top(outside), which I put carb cleaner on, and testing to see if it went through, with water, etc.. sprayed while running, sprayed all over. no change. Thats what I did to take it off the list.
Still dont know if my TPS is within specs with 1.9-5v range, and my cps testing at 512 ohms.
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I've been dealing with the same problem for a little over a year. Normally, it doesn't take more than a couple of minutes to get the car warm enough that the problem goes away, but it is aggravating.
I won't go into the list of things that I've tried, unless someone wants me to, but...
Did you ever get it to work? How?
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I'm still wondering too. Here's some hunches:
I'll bet the Dinan has a bad transistor on the coil circuit that's flagging the error. I'm thinking that the AFM temp sensor (not the mixture flap) might be a culprit too, or the O2 heater isn't functional. Those both can modify the mixture in more for open loop warm running but not so much when the engine is fully warmed up in closed loop.
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Today i tried flooring it when it was bogging, and it seemed to be able to maintain a speed, but with violent jerks of ACtual igniting. like someone was turning on and off the spark/fuel
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I'm still wondering too. Here's some hunches:
I'll bet the Dinan has a bad transistor on the coil circuit that's flagging the error. I'm thinking that the AFM temp sensor (not the mixture flap) might be a culprit too, or the O2 heater isn't functional. Those both can modify the mixture in more for open loop warm running but not so much when the engine is fully warmed up in closed loop.
can you replace the afm temp sensor?
hmmm, what do you think I should do then/ how should I tackle this.
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The sensor can be tested, let me see if I can find that somewhere. I should really print up a copy of the manual to have on hand for reference.
I'll bet the thermistor can be replaced too, likely it's a $5 part at DigiKey or a domestic cross-ref exists. I'd like to remove mine...it's right in the middle of the airflow into the engine & I'll bet it impedes flow.
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I have the e36 bentley and its very very vague it just sais the values to test for
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I dont want to dump money into sensor or anything else to figure out this cold start problem.
it's hard to do the testing without the proper materials at my place at school so I decided that I'm going for an M50 swap When the summer comes, ill be acqumulating parts and other materials to get that ready, until I can do the swap at my boss's shop.
Thanks everyone for the help, It's too bad I could never figure this out.
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I see that you have abandoned the fight. But if you're still thinking of it you can really eliminate the O2 sensor from your list. The computer will ignore it until it reaches the working temperature ~5min.
I own an m42 E36. I have two temperature sensors on the engine, the first one sends the signal to the computer, and the second one to the gauge. You may want to try to replace the one sending the signal to the computer. It is not expensive and it is worh trying.
From what I have seen it behaves almost like it does not know the TB is open. You may wanna insist on that TPS.
I'll think about it anyway, maybe i'll come up with something.
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I see that you have abandoned the fight. But if you're still thinking of it you can really eliminate the O2 sensor from your list. The computer will ignore it until it reaches the working temperature ~5min.
I own an m42 E36. I have two temperature sensors on the engine, the first one sends the signal to the computer, and the second one to the gauge. You may want to try to replace the one sending the signal to the computer. It is not expensive and it is worh trying.
From what I have seen it behaves almost like it does not know the TB is open. You may wanna insist on that TPS.
I'll think about it anyway, maybe i'll come up with something.
^This.. Replace the DME temp sensor....
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Arent the coolant temperature sensor, and the DME temperature sensor the same thing?
I also replaced the 02 sensor, getting bertter mileage, but didnt fix problems.
I also got a narrowband AFR gauge. Ill let you know how it acts when the car actus funny.
It does go from lean to rich pretty openly on idle.
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Run the car in it's non-drivable state and shut it off before it begins to run normally, then pull out the spark plugs and tell us what you see.
Also, have you verified the quality of your battery connections?
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The AFR gauge was telling me that as it was bogging it IS getting fuel. so Now I can narrow it down to spark. which pretty much points directly to a crank position sensor.
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The coolant gauge and the DME sender are two different units, tan and blue screwed into the head below the lower intake. The forward blue unit is for DME. The sensors are an NTC (negative temperature coefficient) type, meaning as the temperature increases, electrical resistance of the sensor decreases. The control unit reads the voltage change in the circuit as temperature.
About the CPS, I thought if the crank sensor shit the bed, it won't run at all........isn't it one of the first things the DME needs to be satisfied to tell the fuel pump to turn on?
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I replace the BLUE DME coolant temperature sensor. I remember putting in a resistor in the plug of the value of what it would see if it was "warm". It worked half of the time.
Im thinking that maybe when cold something is not working like it should, or there is some problem. I finally know how to use a multimeter, and have a basic understanding of wiring, I just dont know where to start testing. I have prett much tested every sensor.
only one hta seemed fishy was the cps which was like 30 ohms under spec, and the TPS which was sending a varable change in voltage of 2-5V from when it was closed- open.
thanks!
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Did you test the ICV this way?
1. Unplug the idle speed control valve connector and check for 12 volts at terminal 2 with the ignition switch ON. Power comes from terminal 87 of the main DME relay.
2. To check the motor resistance, connect an ohmmeter to terminals 2 and 3 of the actuator. It should read about 20 ohms. Terminals 2 and 1 should also read 20 ohms. Resistance across terminals 1 and 3 should be about 40 ohms. The terminal numbers will be imprinted on the connector body with terminal 2 in the middle position. Terminals 1 and 3 are the outer terminals and the exact positions are not critical to this test.
3. If voltage and resistance readings are correct, remove the actuator and use a tool to carefully push the rotary valve sideways to the fully open position. With the wiring connected and the ignition switch ON, the valve should move to about the 50 percent position and remain stable.
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Im almost positive the ICV is working, its buzzing, I have spares, which also all work, they have all been cleaned etc. When I blip the throttle the Door Moves, I think it goes shut Im pretty sure, Id ont remember, but I had one on the car, and the plug on a separate ICV to see how it reacted, which seemed positive.
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The sensor can be tested, let me see if I can find that somewhere. I should really print up a copy of the manual to have on hand for reference.
I'll bet the thermistor can be replaced too, likely it's a $5 part at DigiKey or a domestic cross-ref exists. I'd like to remove mine...it's right in the middle of the airflow into the engine & I'll bet it impedes flow.
On M42 engines, the air temperature sensor is inside the housing and must be tested as part of the air flow meter circuit. I have a .pdf version of the M42 emissions diagram if you need it. I'm not sure of the resistive range values the vane will display, but whatever it is, the resistance should increase/decrease smoothly, with no shorts or opens.
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did you ever try to run the car without a cat? because its screaming clogged cat. and if that's too much work, did you at least try seafoam yet?
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I replaced the cat this summer. Not to mention, previously the car had a gutted cat, I thought it was a gutted cat as well. What values should i look for?
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What about the wiring between the temp sensor and the DME, or wherever it goes? I'm just throwing this out, but perhaps it's the wiring? Should be pretty simple to trace the temp sensor wires (or look at a wiring diagram) and either make some jumpers or test them with your MM.
Also, have you checked/replaced the temp sensor on the top right side of the radiator?
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This may be a stupid question, but did the stomp test reveal anything?
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DME 1 has a Mark D chip: says 1271
DME 2 bone stock says 1244 (or camshaft sensor)
recently replaced the camshaft sensor, to no imporvemnt.
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What about the wiring between the temp sensor and the DME, or wherever it goes? I'm just throwing this out, but perhaps it's the wiring? Should be pretty simple to trace the temp sensor wires (or look at a wiring diagram) and either make some jumpers or test them with your MM.
Also, have you checked/replaced the temp sensor on the top right side of the radiator?
replaced the temp switch with a 88º C much later for the Electric Fan.
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I know it's a reach, and it would be a pretty good fuck up if it is true, but maybe the two temperature sensor plugs are switched, or the plug to the DME sender damaged? If the PO was under the intake deleting shit, I would inspect the electrical distribution raceway that is under the intake. Pop the cover off and look to make sure there are no broken wires, pushed connector pins, etc. Check inside the trough all the way to the sensor plug. It still sounds like temperature reporting to the DME to me......
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hmm Ill take a look, that could be it
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Hey, Fiddy....have you resolved the problem?
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NOpe :( Im going to start taking some mad pictures of everyhtign
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Well, I gotta tell you, my wife's 1998 E36 M44 car has been running like shit for a few months. I replaced the ICV, PCV, water/air hoses to PCV, intake gaskets, flushed coolant, etc. It still ran like shit after it warmed up, lugging so bad at stoplights as if to stall. I put a bottle of Techron into the car Saturday with about 1/4 tank of gas. Problem solved. Fucking unbelievable. Try this shit, as it's only ~11 bucks at the parts store. Try it.
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HMM techron??? I once Did the seafoam through the intake? Ill try that techron, or maybe marvel mystery oil!
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How'd you make out with the Techron?
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Have to move out, so I have to get back to that, however the problem doesnt really occur during the summer... go figure.
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replaced all the intake gaskets, and checked over the vacuum stuff.... No sign yet.
fuck this thing
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:(