M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => Swaps, Turbos, Buildups => Topic started by: robweenerpi on February 03, 2009, 10:47:29 PM
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Can you guess what I'm doing? :cool:
(http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v2234/196/3/1260932318/n1260932318_30283038_8079.jpg)
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power steering delete?
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e36 oil pan relocation!
interesting :)
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power steering delete?
You can just remove the pump, cut the lines and plug them for that. I do have an E36 rack going in shortly, I am just waiting on my friend Kevin to turn the spacers for me.
I'm actually moving the engine back 17cm (6 - 3/4 inches roughly) and probably down. The engine pictured is the 'dummy' I built. All internals are removed so it weighs much much less.
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You can just remove the pump, cut the lines and plug them for that. I do have an E36 rack going in shortly, I am just waiting on my friend Kevin to turn the spacers for me.
I'm actually moving the engine back 17cm (6 - 3/4 inches roughly) and probably down. The engine pictured is the 'dummy' I built. All internals are removed so it weighs much much less.
Are going to modify the firewall, too? I don't see where you can move the engine 17cm back. Lower is a good idea.
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are you going to have to shorten the driveshaft?
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Yeah I started marking the firewall where I need to cut. I will use some sheetmetal to make a scatter plate and new wall. I am running tubes from the cage up to the strut towers and making an x brace from the front subframe to get the strength back.
Yep the driveshaft will obviously have to be shortened. I tried sitting on it but I couldn't get it to fit. I may do a one piece driveshaft.
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WOW awesome! This I want to see. I've been thinking the same thing for a while. It seems like the M42 in the E30 sits a lot further forward than M20. I was thinking that the M20 bell housing might be shorter since the block seems to run further back. Maybe you could get away with just swapping in an 260 gear box?
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Nope, you could maybe move it back 1/4 or 1/2 inch. It sits in the same position as the other engines. No way to do it without getting into some cutting or welding.
The front of my engine will be at roughly the front axle center line when I'm done.
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why????
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why????
Why not????
(http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-sf2p/v256/196/3/1260932318/n1260932318_30037058_6127.jpg)
It's a racecar and I'm not running while I'm back in school. Plenty of time to chop it up and put it back together.
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Sick! The only thing stopping me doing this to my race car build up is i wanna race it now! and the rules im currently building too of course.
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Here's a couple from tonight's progress.
(http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v2234/196/3/1260932318/n1260932318_30295833_7493.jpg)
There is a lot of open space now. I could probably stand between the radiator and engine when done. But..there will probably be a large duct there. :D
(http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v2234/196/3/1260932318/n1260932318_30295834_7828.jpg)
As you can see Cylinder 4 sits basically where the heater box was inside the firewall.
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Looks sweet. Can't wait to see the final pics of the engine bay!
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I can tell you after putting the engine back in my race car you are going to have hell on your hands...the head will hit the battery box and all that folded junk, you are going to have to cut alot of steel unless you go dry sump and stand the motor upright.
good luck with it thou, keep us updated....lots of room for a turbo up front now!
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Very impressive.
how did u decide on 17cm? why not more or less?
how did u calculated this?
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I can tell you after putting the engine back in my race car you are going to have hell on your hands...the head will hit the battery box and all that folded junk, you are going to have to cut alot of steel unless you go dry sump and stand the motor upright.
good luck with it thou, keep us updated....lots of room for a turbo up front now!
looks like there is enough room to fit SEVERAL turbo's now!!!
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Here's a couple from tonight's progress.
(http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v2234/196/3/1260932318/n1260932318_30295833_7493.jpg)
There is a lot of open space now. I could probably stand between the radiator and engine when done. But..there will probably be a large duct there. :D
(http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v2234/196/3/1260932318/n1260932318_30295834_7828.jpg)
As you can see Cylinder 4 sits basically where the heater box was inside the firewall.
Nice.
Looks like you're beating me on my future plans! Should move some weight back a little! I'm not even sure I can move the motor back anymore. I might be getting into a new scca class next year. If I do the class I have to make my pinned aluminum skin doors hinge! That should be a fun project! It sucks I cut off my hinges on the body too...:(
Let us know what the car weighs on the scales and and what the front/ rear % is.
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I think the car will be about 1850-1900# when done. It's kinda sat for a few months now as I accumulated some parts and tools I needed to complete.
Car should be 50/50 evenish. It was about 52% on the front with the engine in the stock position and the car gutted to 2200 pounds. I will not be running a dash, bumpers, lights, and other parts. I actually had the car running at 1950 pounds once with more parts on it than will be put back on. My doors, trunk, hood, and lots of other parts have been skinned and modified. But I'm adding several bars to the cage and gussets to make it safer since it was originally designed for spec. There's even an M44 crank and rods sitting around here somewhere. :-)
Very impressive.
how did u decide on 17cm? why not more or less?
how did u calculated this?
It was how far back I thought I could go with an easy sub frame modification and easily fit the E36 style pans. Just a metric measuring tape initially. I just bolted a spare sub frame to one of my engines and roughed it out. Then rounded to 17cm for shits and giggles.
I can tell you after putting the engine back in my race car you are going to have hell on your hands...the head will hit the battery box and all that folded junk, you are going to have to cut a lot of steel unless you go dry sump and stand the motor upright.
I smell what you are stepping in. There was a lot more metal removed than what is pictured here. I cut it out in little stages at I test fit with additional components. It will use solid motor/trans mounts as well.
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MORE PICS :D
I wanna see moar.
I'm looking at moving my engine back about 70mm (just so it butts up against the firewall sort of thing. That way i won't have to mess with tailshafts either (6 Cylinder shafter is about 100mm shorter). Then I'm looking at modding the sump and rotating the engine a little bit to get more room for the turbo i wanna stick down the side of the block :D