M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => Swaps, Turbos, Buildups => Topic started by: finite on February 01, 2009, 04:25:38 PM
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I've just picked up a spanking e30 318is with an e36 m44 motor running with the e30 m42 inlet and electronics. Needless to say she's a little beast and will hopefuly do me proud on the Nurburgring in April!
So after a long day at work and a long trip to the other side of the UK I drive her home in the freezing night with the heater blowing cold air... and the temp guage on zero. The radiators getting hot and the pipes to the heater matrix seem to be hot... any ideas anyone? Termostat? Bleeding?
After a nights kip and a lie in we commenced work on phase 1 - strip and clean. The interior's all out baring the dash and front door cards, the sunroof mechanism's all gone and the panel welded/siliconed in place.
Now looking for ideas for suspension, tyres, wheels, exhausts (has a stainless manifold and mid section) cage, etc etc so anyone with suggestions feel free!
First thing first though somebody have an idea about the coolant system issues? I can't deal with much more driving with six layers on!!
Cheers!
Phil
~NUBURGRING DEADLINE 9 WEEKS - 12th April 09~
~Cars going:~
~String Rx7 3rd Gen - 450bhp+ track monster~
~Matt Rx7 1st Gen - Lean mean white fighting machine~
~Phil BMW e30 318 - "Going to eat the 1st Gen"~
~Stu 350z - Mild man of metal~
~Rick/Andy Porche 944 - Will they keep up? Or will we!~
~John - Is he coming or is he not!~
Oh and I've now got a full mint (really mint!) interior for sale if anyone wants it. South west UK location
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Been reading up on the temp guage/heater issues... wondering if they're two issues. Issue one being the thermostat and/or something else causing the heater problem. Issue 2 being the guage, wondering if this is because the m44 motor doesn't have a port for the second sensor the e30 needs for the guage (m42s have two sensors, one for guage one for ecu I think!). Can anyone confirm or correct this?
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sounds good i have about the same dealine to get mine built and i've had an 8 week head start!
Have a look at the Race Car album
http://s365.photobucket.com/albums/oo93/e30guydownunder/ (http://s365.photobucket.com/albums/oo93/e30guydownunder/)
should give you ideas on my solution for a roll cage atleast. I'll hoping to finish the rollcage within two weeks then it is mostly a matter of assembling the car and i should be ready for easter.
Good luck.
no idea on temp issues thou, doesn't get that cold over here :)
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I would start with changeing your thermostate first its probably stuck open. Does your gauge needle move when you start the car or turn ignition on?? Yes the temp sensors in the head under the manifold one is for ecu and the other for gauge.
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sounds like your thermostat is stuck open.
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Nice car mate! Where you gonna be racing? Coming to the ring too?
And now for a million questions and a lot of rambling!!
I'll be changing the thermostat this week, hoping this will correct the problem. The guage does come up from it's resting point when the ignition is turned on so I presume it's working. It's an M44 motor from an e36 318i so I think it only has one temp sensor (???). How difficult is the water pump to change as I dont know if it's been done?
Been having a root around today, going to put a catch can together for the crank and head breather. Couldn't quite see where the crank breather hose went too but i presume the one going under the inlet manifold eventually hits the block (anyone know where?).
Was out in the snow last night having a little sideways play... noticed the diff "clunks" in quite hard, don't think it's the diff as it feels solid and no noise but do the subframe or diff bushes go on the e30s? If so can anyone recommend some?
I'm getting a CDS Club Cage from Custom Cages as a starting point. A good mate of mine will be fitting and adding more bracing (el stringer works for Caterham welding up the chassis, he did a bespoke CDS cage for another mate's Gen 1 RX which I'll have to get some pics of for you).
Any recommendations for discs/pads/hoses/suspension/exhausts (mine's blowing), wheels, tyres.
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Water pump is easy just take off the belt thats running the alternator undo the 4 bolts on the pully and remove it. the you just undo the other 4 bolts holding the water pump in and you can try to pull it out but that may be hard. when your looking at the waterpump you will see 2 little bolt holes that you thread bolts into and push the pump out that way.
yes the subframe mounts fail alot on e30s probably thats whats clunking if they are totally collapsed.
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it would over-heat if it was water pump, or air locked by someone not bleeding the system properly.
has to be thermostat.
its like 19$ tops to replace w/ a gasket and everything.
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I had the same problem when I changed a head recently, gauge got to less than 1/4 when driving, but would get hot and hold at 1/2 way when left standing.
Try letting it idle to warm up once the gauge is up check you are getting hot air from th heaters and then go for a drive, if the thermostat is stuck open (or knackered, mine looked fine when I took it out) the engine temp will drop and the heater will stop working.
There is also a solenoid valve above the glove box, I can't remember if it opens or closes the hot water supply, but if it's not working could be stopping the water flow to the heater.
Although the hoses feel warm, do they feel too hot to touch?
On the M44 sensor issue, some have tried to wire up the E30 dash and ECU into the 2way one (3 pin I believe) in the M44 head, this doesn't work as they don't talk to the E30 systems, you need to put the ECU sensor (2 wire one from E30 M42) into the head and either drill another port for the Dash sensor (1 wire sensor) into the head or make up a mounting in the water hose near the thermostat so it picks up the temp increase when the thermostat opens, whilst not ideal that way you will at least know if you are getting to hot (although if you run low on water and boil the head it may not pick it up fast enough).
The M42 head flows better than the M44 head so it may be worthwhile changing back to the M42 head anyway.
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Got the car in the air today and had a good look at the subframe etc, all bushes look good baring front wishbone bushes are gone so a set of those are on the way. Car already has bilsten shocks which is a result! Thought it handled rather well for a stock car. Unfortunately found that the fuel tank is leaking from the filler neck (heard this is common). So on that note is the fuel tank in a 318is Coupe the same as in a saloon, anyone know where i can get one in the UK?
I've got a new thermostat so planning on fitting it this weekend. It's a complete M44 engine that was put in by the previous owner. I think the temp sensor in the head is a two wire one, so I guess they hooked this up right. I can't see the other temp sensor anywhere nor find the wiring for it in the engine bay (what should I be looking for?).
The symptoms are:
1. Car doesn't idle when cold (have to heal and toe) but after two or three minutes running will idle fine
2. Temp guage moves off of resting when the ignition is turned on but does not move at all whether car is driving at speed, slowly or standing still.
3. Heater always blows cold air on any setting - fan is working, assume temp dial is working as air flow restriction can be heard as heat setting is increased
4. Radiator gets hot as expected and remains constant
5. Heater hoses to bulkhead get "warm" but not hot
So any ideas on the above? Can you tell me the correct bleeding procedure for when I cahnge the thermostat housing and flush the system?
As it's an M44 is changing the water pump still a simple job that doesn't need the cam belt off?
Thanks again for all your help!!
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Sump Gasket - Saturday
Full oil flish and change - Saturday
Full coolant flush and thermostat - Saturday
Fuel filter change - Saturday
Plugs - Saturday
Engine mount weld in - Sunday
Seat mounts fabrication - Sunday
Cage ordered - http://www.customcages.co.uk
Fuel Tank - NEEDED URGENTLY
Brakes - Saving hard!
Front Arm Bushes ordered
Exhaust - Ordered
Suspension - Billy's onboard!
Harnesses - any offers?
Wheels and Tyres - Speedlines and Yokos ordered
Catch Can - ideas forming - are the two hoses connected to the inlet hose the crank case and rocker cover breathers?
Sump Guard - being fabbed by String
Air Filter - being fabbed by String
Cold Air Box - being fabbed by String
Strut Brace - being fabbed by String
Nurburgring - 8 and a half weeks and counting!!
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So after many hours in the freezing cold snow and ice today I finally changed the thermostat (don't ask it is a long horrible story!). Needless to say the story doesn't get any better as changing the stat has neither cured the heater problem or the temp guage issue.
I'm now starting to wonder if it's actually an M42 engine from an e36 as I'm convinced there are two sensors in the head as per photos of M42 engines I've seen on tinter-web. Trying to get hold of the guy who sold me the car, hopefuly he'll have more information. Anyone able to give me a hand?
At the moment the following problems exist:
1, Temperature guage is not showing a reading (it moves up from rest with ignition on but nothing else).
2. Heater is not working.
In relation to the above I have changed the thermostat. However this has made no difference. The pipes to the radiator get hot as does the rad, the pipes to the bulkhead for the heater get hot (not as hot as rad). When I changed the thermostat I ordered a housing and stat for an e36 M44 engine, however the one that turned up didn't fit at all (didn't have the same round housing, nor was it as big). Which makes me wonder if is an M44 motor in the car? When bleeding the rad the bleed screw sheared but i've created a beatuy out of a banjo bolt and some washers (even involved welding!).
3. The car is extreemly difficult to start when cold. I have to hold the revs at about 1000 for a couple of minutes. It regularly stalls if you don't heal and toe for the first couple of minutes. Feels and smells like it's running very rich. Once car is warm (say three to five minutes from starting) it idles fine however still smells like it's overfuelling.
4. Exhaust rear box is blowing. Nevermind these things happen! Powerflow exhaust on its way.
5. OS engine mount bolts sheered. Nevermind again! Going to weld them in tomorrow.
6. Oil sump gasket is gone and leaking like a sieve. Again nevermind, going to sort that tomorrow. Now on this note I went and got a sump gasket for an e36 M44 motor as per what I was told was in the car. However I'm not convinced it's the right one which makes me wonder even more if it is an M44 engine??????
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Hi finite,
people could help you if you would take pictures of the engine and show them here.
I think only the M44 is equipped with only ONE temp sensor in the cylinder head. M42 of both E30 and E36 had two sensors: BLUE for the DME and YELLOW/ORANGE for the temp gauge.
Furthermore I think the M44 double sensor is not appropriate for the M42 DME. Get a BLUE temp sensor for M42 and throw away the M44 double sensor (isn't that a temp switch instead of a sensor anyway?). After that you still havn't got a working temp gauge but the DME is able to read the water temp of the engine and will run smoother when idling cold.
Regarding the cold heater: change both hoses connected to the heater. Probably the water flow is in wrong direction so it can't get through the heater.
Tips für brake pads/rotors:
- standard BMW OEM parts for normal driving
(does also work on occasional trips on the Nurburgring).
- Hawk or Pagid yello pads for racing or heavy duty Nurburgring use.
Combine them with group N rotors (standard rotors cannot stand
the heat for a long time).
Group N rotors are e.g. Tarox Zero.
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Sweeeeet
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Thanks 318ishonk
I had a look at the situation today along with changing my lower sump gasket... well replacing with instant gasket anyway! Now the bottom hose on the rad is staying cold, the top hose gets hot, the radiator pretty much stays cold (a little warmth on the expansion tank side), the hoses to the bulkhead are hotter than they were but still not as hot as the top hose into the rad.
Temp sensor is still not working. Still no heat from heater.
I've finally managed to have a look at the head and it does have two sensors in it (blue (ecu) and brown (gauge)) so have ordred both. This week I will be doing the following:
1. Drain coolant again :(
2. Remove and refit thermostat again (how can I identify its the right one and working?)
3. Remove throttle body
4. Eliminate throttle body warming plate and simplify hoses under throttle body as per http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2742
5. Rmove upper and lower inlet manifold, clean and powder coat
6. Replace brown and blue temp sensors and test (got code reader on the way)
7. Put it all back together and bleed. Couple of things on this - my bleed screw has been replaced by a normal bolt with o-ring and some washers, will this stop it from bleeding properly? Which way round should the heater hoses go?
I've also got to weld a patch over an inner wing hole, a hole in the bottom of both front wings and weld in the engine mounts (sheered bolts).
Should keep me busy!
I really appreciate all your help guys - please keep it coming, at the moment I've 8 weeks to go till we're off to the Nurburgring, unless I can get the coolant system working properly I'm not going :(
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The wire from brown/orange temp sensor is supposed to connect to pin 26 of the blue connector of your instrument cluster / temp gauge.
Between the connector of that sensor and its housing you should measure about 600 Ohms at room temperature.
Between the two connectors of the blue temp sensor its about 2300 Ohms impedance (at room temp.). One wire is ground (i think) an the other should be connected to pin 78 of the ECU.
Check those wires. Temp sensors rarely fail or get damaged. Both sensors decrease in impedance with raising coolant temp (NTC).
As for the heater: you have only two possibilities fixing the hoses. Try both.
Remember to check whether the heater and the radiator are not clogged. And by the way: with a defect coolant pump both heater and radiator wouldn't work, right? So check that pump.
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Hi finite...unfortunately no i wont be doing the nurburgring, see location. I'll be racing on local tracks...Eastern Creek, Oran Park and Wakefield Park.
Sounds like your going great thou, but i would be hesitant to weld the engine mounts to the subframe. A set of Heavy Duty mounts would be much better, still permitting engine movement but also stronger and more durable.
Goodluck!
Might want to check out some of these links for racing parts. I'm not sure what sort of aftermarket support is avaliable in the UK for the E30's
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/
http://bimmerworld.com/
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/
http://www.bmw2002.com/
http://www.bavauto.com/
http://bmaparts.com/
http://www.treehouseracing.com/
http://www.vorshlag.com/
http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/category.php/CA=6
That should get your started :)
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hey e30guy thanks for the links! Good luck with the racing, watched some of those tracks on you-tube, you guys got some quick rx7's out there :)
had an eventful couple of nights in the garage, will post some pics as soon as i get them on the laptop. So progress so far:
1. Oil sump lower gasket replaced
2. Thermostat replaced - not working right, concerned may have cooked head gasket! Compression tester purchased.. any hints on what to look for?
3. Exhaust system removed, will be reusing rear mid-box to replace cat in front half and new PowerFlow twin DTM rear section turned up (hmmmm shiny!)
4. Prop in process of being removed - what a nightmare the bolts are! Took me an hour to get one undone on the front flex joint, the others feel like Titan himself couldn't move them
5. Tank - new one arrived (more shiny!), got to strip all other bits from old tank (pump and sender assembly -this looks like I have to tap round the housing to release??). Going to have to get new mounting fixings I think. Anyone got an opinion on welding a rear half cage in with the tank in place? Or should it be taken out?
6. Throttle body, upper lower and inlet manifold removed exposing a mass of split hoses
7. Removed mass of split hoses ready for throttle body heater plate bypass. Noticed head return coolant hose is atrophied and was kinked... wonder if this might be causing an air lock in the system hence the no heater!!??
8. Removed ICV and hoses ready for repositioning/replacement
9. Checked plugs for ECU temp sensor and gauge temp sensor... they were the wrong way round! Check temp guage for function - all ok, went straight to hot when grounded (took half hour to work out which fuse was fuel pump fuse though as had injector rail out!). How do I tell whether the cold start injector plug and ecu temp sensor plugs are on the right ones!!!
10. Noticed rear subframe mount bushes are a bit knackered... on the back burner as they dont seem too bad
11. Put the jack through the rear o/s sill... now have to patch that and a hole in the o/s inner wing, hole in the o/s lower wing and put on a new n/s wing.
12. Third new thermostat on it's way from the guy I bought the car from... right one this time! Also bleed screw for rad. Going to remove rad and flush. How hard is it to get the heater matrix in and out considering I have all but the dash and centre console out of the car already? Would be nice to have this out and flush. Also which way do the pipes go on... keep seeing conflicting answers.
13. Ordered all inlet manifold and tb gaskets, fuel tank bits and pieces, and plastic head water pipe from local bmw stealership.
14. Made an even bigger list of jobs to do! Including making a tool to remove the viscous fan and getting the water pump out for inspection.
Here's praying the coolant issues haven't cooked the head or worse and it all works when it's back together!!!
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Powerflow exhaust and Speedline wheels with Yoko A549s turned up today...
(http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/1722/wheelsyb8.jpg)
(http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/1040/zorsteu9.jpg)
Going to reuse the mid box from the old rear section to replace the CAT in the front section... length and angles are perfect!
More dissasembly today, rad out, thermostat out... loads more to do tomorrow. And just to be a pain the E46 daily-driver decided to drop one of it's exhaust mounts today so it's welding time tomorrow!
:D
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Progress pics... can anyone identify if I have the heater hoses on properly.
(http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/8839/image000gj1.jpg)
(http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/3113/image004ii7.jpg)
(http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/8778/image012gb7.jpg)
(http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/3488/image004kt7.jpg)
(http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/6110/image001qf0.jpg)
(http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/6656/image005hw7.jpg)
(http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/4116/image010gs8.jpg)
(http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/2838/image011ld3.jpg)
(http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/4402/image008wh3.jpg)
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Cylinder head and cover are M42 as well as is the oil filter. I can't see any sign for the engine being an M44.
The water hose from the cylinder head (engine water OUT) goes to the heater connector on the bottom (car water IN). Behind that connector (on the drivers side) is an electrical valve.
The upper connector on the car/heater side (car water OUT) goes to the thick plastic tube (engine water IN) underneath the cable tree of the engine.
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Hi, judging by your plate your in the UK, UK IS's are super rare to find with a CAT in the exhaust, do you have a lambda in the exhaust? my middle section looked the same as yours and when i chopped it out other than in weighing as much as a boat anchor it was streight through, just a resinator so might be worth checking first
After the supercharger had been done i decided to make a new exhaust system for the car using the start of the down pipe and then making the rest from stainless steel from work heres the apre a bought just before i chopped the box out.
(http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/986/16052007095bw9.jpg)
All tacked up after ages groveling about under the car on axel stands trying to line it all up.
(http://img393.imageshack.us/img393/4611/20052007097fi5.jpg)
My new back box from sebring :D
(http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/7230/21032007038ey6.jpg)
Fitted to the car
(http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/2362/22032007040az4.jpg)
Since then i made another section to remove the rear resinator as well
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg315/Appletree318is/DSC00171.jpg)
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I'll take some pics of the exhaust tomorrow, just finished building it today. Cut the "cat" out which yep turns out to be a massive resonator that weighs about 8kg!! Mate of mine, String, replaced it with a small box resonator from the old rear section and extended the new rear section, fits a treat!
Fuel tank also off after an hour spent with a pair of mole grips on a rounded rusted bolt head.
GRRR
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Oh and no 02 sensor... which is great in my opinion as less to mess around with.
Phase 2 (after germany) will see a full motec or similar going in to replace the ECU and some serious power and chasis modifications. Will use wideband then.
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So.... lots of welding today... not pretty but it's solid!
Tank out:
(http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/2175/image020bb6.th.jpg) (http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/2175/image020bb6.jpg)
Small hole in o/s inner wing turned out to be large hole!
(http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/853/image013nb5.th.jpg) (http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/853/image013nb5.jpg)
(http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/6743/image014nm9.th.jpg) (http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/6743/image014nm9.jpg)
Thanks John for the panel cutting and general grind-monkeying!
(http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/8767/image016vo0.th.jpg) (http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/8767/image016vo0.jpg)
(http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/8938/image017yi7.th.jpg) (http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/8938/image017yi7.jpg)
So a lot of welding and screaming at each other later (neither of us are particularly experienced or adept with a welder!) we ended up with a strong but not particularly pretty repair. Here enter the mastic! Will be spraying silver inner and chasis black outer when dry:
(http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/7951/image025dp4.th.jpg) (http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/7951/image025dp4.jpg)
Cutout for DTM exhaust, will be sheilded with titanium soon... forgot to take pics of exhaust made by String will do that tomorrow:
(http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/8269/image022ou9.th.jpg) (http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/8269/image022ou9.jpg)
Repair... errr... mastic... on the other side of the rear vallance... she is a track day thrash machine, can't afford to do everything (time or money):
(http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/1029/image023cx9.th.jpg) (http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/1029/image023cx9.jpg)
Macca's First Gen RX7 last year three months before we went to the ring, it didn't make it that time but it will this time! We decided to stop working on the first gen to concentrate on String's third gen:
(http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/1543/dscn0399bk8.th.jpg) (http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/1543/dscn0399bk8.jpg)
Last years Nuburgring trip... services on M25, Stu's 350z going again this year, String's 450bhp+ mental Third Gen Rx7 and my old WRX waggon (long story):
(http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/1557/dscn0427hm9.th.jpg) (http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/1557/dscn0427hm9.jpg)
Mapping the third gen RX7 on the M25 on the way to the eurotunel having got an MOT the morning we were going:
(http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/4113/dscn0438ig1.th.jpg) (http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/4113/dscn0438ig1.jpg)
All good fun :)
(http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/368/dscn0439yi4.th.jpg) (http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/368/dscn0439yi4.jpg)
First services we got to in france... we tried working on the car on the train but they weren't too happy about it being up on a jack on the eurostar while it was moving:
(http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/6109/dscn0442yr5.th.jpg) (http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/6109/dscn0442yr5.jpg)
Second services:
(http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/9391/dscn0445jk7.th.jpg) (http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/9391/dscn0445jk7.jpg)
Belgium (yes we are dirty scummy pikies):
(http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/2985/dscn0448va0.th.jpg) (http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/2985/dscn0448va0.jpg)
30 miles from the Ring ran out of fuel... just as well we bought jerry cans (full):
(http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/6061/dscn0453yk1.th.jpg) (http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/6061/dscn0453yk1.jpg)
And then finally got to the Ringhause at midnight. Hans promptly issued complimentary coffee and beer and had the cook make everyone steaks. Top man!! See you in April Hans!
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Sounds Great, i went last year in the bimma and the year before in an old udo 80. had an ace time but both times had problems on route, the bimmas caliper bolts sheared and off on the motorway, not fun, but there was luckaly a bmw breakers at the next services, just before bedburgerland services.
the first time in the audi the heater matrix poped queing to get off the track, shit my self though we was on fire when the steam started coming out the dash and then on the way back queing through hull the top hose rubbed through on the dipstik an pissed water everyware, managed to fix it with a lucasde bottle and gaffer tap and a jubile clip. :-)
video of the audi bodge
http://s251.photobucket.com/albums/gg315/Appletree318is/?action=view¤t=02102007072.flv
Just a few SLR's when we went, they were doing a driver training day.
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg315/Appletree318is/01102007248.jpg)
Me trying to fix my caliper while every one watchs and dave with the golf was trying to find the brake hose that had wrapped round the strut.
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg315/Appletree318is/228.jpg)
Mates 2ltr golf that the gear box gave up on half way round the ring next to hotelnurburg (eddies) were we were stopping:D got it trailered front the ring to the ferry, on the insurane thank fuck. if you go with ADAC you get free recovery off the ring to should the worst happen and its only as expensive as the AA:)
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg315/Appletree318is/DSC00075.jpg)
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Sounds like you had as much fun as we did!
Got any info on the ADAC insurance and how to get it? We tried last year and failed misserably.
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Powerflow exhaust and Speedline wheels with Yoko A549s turned up today...
(http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/1722/wheelsyb8.jpg)
....
:D
Hi,
what is the weight of those wheels? I am looking for some good for track wheels.
Regards, D.S.
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not a clue mate but a damn sight lighter than the stock ones that was for sure... those things are boat anchors!
Anyone got any hints for removing the viscous fan? I've got a lock tool to hold the pully but still can't get the nut to move!
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So took the water pump out tonight... couple of bit of advice to anyone about to do this:
1. Removing viscous fan requires a tool for locking the pully (Drapper do a nice universal one) a massive 32mm spanner and a rugby playing mate to hold the locking tool while you wack the hell out of the spanner to unlock the nut.
2. When you find the pump is seized in the block, as it inevitably will be, don't try the m6 holes and m6 bolts arrangement to push the pump out. The pump housing is made out of swiss-cheese alloy and things just end up braking.
3. Once the pump housing is a mess and the bolt holes are on the floor don't try wacking the pump with a hammer as this just makes matters worse!
I say get a hydrolic puller if you've the experience to acurately use one without ripping your block to pieces or alternately entrust to a suitable garage. That way when they balls it up they'll be paying for the mistakes not you!
So needless to say the pump's out now but there's a couple of small bits of plastic from the proppeller stuck in there somewhere, here's hoping a blast with the hosepipe get's them out!!!!! Couple of gouges in the hole for the pump in the block too, not on the sealing face for the o-ring so crossing other set of fingers this'll be ok too!
AR*E
(http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/2254/image029tu5.th.jpg) (http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/2254/image029tu5.jpg)
So after that mess managed to finish applying mastic to the arch repair (shouldn't rust for hell now!) and temporarily refitted inlet tract. Cage should be here this week so car will hopefuly be going over to String for welding in and other bits of fabrication (strut braces, sump guard, cold air box etc)
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So!
Cage is in! Modified with some additional bracing, Will get some pics on tomorrow but needless to say it looks trick! Seat subframes fabbed as well, slight alteration needed to drivers side as it's a little too far to the right but other than that brilliant weekend.
Will post updated pics tomorrow.
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wow you are moving much quicker than me! My cage is in and i got the rear suspension in....have started on painting the inside and the roof where i deleted the sunroof....its gonna be tight. Front struts to build an interior to fit out, the roof and then bolting it all together
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Sounds like you're getting there though mate! One thing I think I'll have to miss out on is suspension, funds are somewhat limited :(
By the way - painting the cage once it's in is a nightmare!
(http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/4387/image030.th.jpg) (http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/4387/image030.jpg)
(http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/3716/image031.th.jpg) (http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/3716/image031.jpg)
(http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/427/image032j.th.jpg) (http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/427/image032j.jpg)
(http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/2562/image033.th.jpg) (http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/2562/image033.jpg)
(http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/4813/image034.th.jpg) (http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/4813/image034.jpg)
(http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/4861/image035.th.jpg) (http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/4861/image035.jpg)
(http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/2462/image036.th.jpg) (http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/2462/image036.jpg)
(http://img160.imageshack.us/img160/4832/image037.th.jpg) (http://img160.imageshack.us/img160/4832/image037.jpg)
(http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/8404/image038.th.jpg) (http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/8404/image038.jpg)
(http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/2216/image041.th.jpg) (http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/2216/image041.jpg)
(http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/9042/image043.th.jpg) (http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/9042/image043.jpg)
(http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/3543/image044.th.jpg) (http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/3543/image044.jpg)
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I find it pretty great that you put safety before "speed gadgets" like semi slicks or engine tuning ;) Well done!
Generally you can compensate a (rather soft) standard suspension and the lack of camber with low profile tyres like 215/40R16 (they have stiff side walls and won't wear off so quickly on the outer sides).
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do you have any measure of the exhaust pipes that makes up the piping underneath ur car?
im planing on building one myself and i'd be happy to find measure and angles before i start my work
thanks
Ron.
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Hehe been there done that with the cage...and wasn't happy with how it turned out, so have rubbed bits of it back and will be painting again :eek
hoping to drop the drivetrain in this weekend....so that will mean the rear suspension and drivetrain are nearly 100% then i just have painting the roof, fitting the interior out and the front struts left to build.
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Sounds like you've got as much work on your plate as me! annoyingly i'm stuck in staines (anyone from the uk will laugh at that!) for the next three days so work's at a halt.
Even more annoyinly I finally got all the inlet and coolant system back together over the weekend and hit a couple of stumbling blocks.
Filled her with some fuel and started to check the system. The fuel system seems to be all good, however the pump doesn't prime on ignition 2 but pumps fuel when you crank. I can't remember if it does prime or not, some cars I know don't as the fuel pump works from the alternator so would only be on during crank and engine running. I didn't get her to fire as I just wanted to check for leaks. Any input on the above?
Next thing I filled the water system. As this progressed water started gushing from the nipple on the head where I'd done the TB heater removal mod. Obviously not done this right!
It would seem the hose from the plastic pipe on the block is 16mm id (well I measured 14mm id but no one makes 14mm rubber coolant hose so it must be 16) and the nippled on the head is 8mm!!!!!????
So I now need some 8mm coolant hose and a 8mm to 16mm metal joiner. This is where I'm really struggling. I cannot for the life of me find anything even close!
So anyone who's done this mod... what was your experience?
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so......
after much wrangling with different bits of hose and connectors she's finally alive! few little niggles to sort out
1. slight leak from water pump, guess the bolts need a final torque
2. idle still a bit eratic, suspect ICV so going to order another also need to set idle stopper and MAF voltage with the wideband
3. exhaust is LOUD so may need to quieten that down
4. had to bypass heater matrix as the valve is knackered and leaking slightly so no heat for me on the road to germany and also gauage is still not hitting quite in the middle. guess there's still air in the system to bleed out.
5. tracking to be done
6. need some clips for the new inlet tract
Any advise on any of the above gladly welcomed!
4 weeks to go!
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so......
after much wrangling with different bits of hose and connectors she's finally alive! few little niggles to sort out
1. slight leak from water pump, guess the bolts need a final torque
2. idle still a bit eratic, suspect ICV so going to order another also need to set idle stopper and MAF voltage with the wideband
3. exhaust is LOUD so may need to quieten that down
4. had to bypass heater matrix as the valve is knackered and leaking slightly so no heat for me on the road to germany and also gauage is still not hitting quite in the middle. guess there's still air in the system to bleed out.
5. tracking to be done
6. need some clips for the new inlet tract
Any advise on any of the above gladly welcomed!
4 weeks to go!
Hi finite,
watch your exhaust to be not too loud. They make sound measuring when they notice a loud car at the gate of the nordschleife.
Did my first laps today this year and on the way to the Nurburgring my temp gauge didn't reach the middle as well. --> don't worry ;)
I always have an oil temp gauge as a backup.
If your heater doesn't work you need a good fan in in the front in case your get in the jam after the end of the lap. I see often guys blowing their radiator on the last meters of a lap because they come with a hot car out of Galgenkopf and then get stuck in traffic.
Speaking of which - they've got new tarmac on the entry of Galgenkopf and it gives you a bump when you get on the old tarmac in the middle of that corner. You want to be bit slower there than last season).
Oh, and: yippie-yeah I felt so jumpy today :-)
(http://www.trackshoots.de/Galerie/albums/touristenfahrten_08/Touris-15-03-09/7F1Q3533.jpg)
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very nice. What suspension setup?
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very nice. What suspension setup?
KW custom made, bound and rebound damping separately adjustable. Springs are quite soft (120N/mm front, unknown in the back) for a race car. A pain to drive in daily traffic though.
About -3 degrees camber, Bridgestone RE55S road legal tyres in 205/50R15. Because of the negative camber rims like 7x15 with offset 12 work nicely (drive my slicks with that).
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KW custom made, bound and rebound damping separately adjustable. Springs are quite soft (120N/mm front, unknown in the back) for a race car. A pain to drive in daily traffic though.
About -3 degrees camber, Bridgestone RE55S road legal tyres in 205/50R15. Because of the negative camber rims like 7x15 with offset 12 work nicely (drive my slicks with that).
I run softer springs, but our race track is not smooth. I am thinking about R17J9, because J7 is too narrow for my brakes :rolleyes:
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Hey Shonk thanks for the info again :)
I only made it round one lap as a passenger last year... very very long story but needless to say it was string's stag weekend and we were more focused on getting his car round the track than anything else! As we'd only just finished building it most of the weekend was spent sorting out the niggles... but not this year!!!! Any adivse on driving the ring would be gladly received!
I'm running the viscous fan on the rad, so hoping this will still provide enough air if I get into any hot temperature situations. Looks like the new water pump is leaking though :( grrr that was my least favourite job. Looks like I'll have to pull it out and try and seal it again, any advise?
The exhaust was blowing badly from the mid section joint so I've redone the joint seal and will be driving her tomorrow to see if that's done the trick. It's a pretty free flowing exhaust, small mid box and small back box with very little in the way of bends so I am thinking two things:
1. It's may still be too loud.
2. It might not be providing enough back pressure hence not running very well
Will be putting it on the wideband tomorrow so should be able to see what the mixtures like.
Think that's about it :)
oh... couple of new pics:
(http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/9804/image047t.th.jpg) (http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/9804/image047t.jpg)
(http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/4430/image048.th.jpg) (http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/4430/image048.jpg)
(http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/8404/image049.th.jpg) (http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/8404/image049.jpg)
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Just found a AC Schnitzer chip on ebay... what you guys think?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=130293365352
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... Any adivse on driving the ring would be gladly received!
... Looks like I'll have to pull it out and try and seal it again, any advise?
...2. It might not be providing enough back pressure hence not running very well
1) Drive slowly, that's quicker and better for your car. On easter it'll be full as hell and there'll be lots of accidents. Main problem is how to get through the traffic jams without overheating the engine.
2) The O-Ring around the water pump might have been damaged while you were installing the pump (too much brute force). Use a new O-Ring, use a little bit of grease and gently remount the pump. When coolant comes out of the pump's bearings, then buy a new pump.
3) Don't worry about back pressure. Worry about overheating tyres, about oil, bikers or both behind a corner in the middle of the track (had that a couple o'times), worry about your safety.
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... Any adivse on driving the ring would be gladly received!
... Looks like I'll have to pull it out and try and seal it again, any advise?
...2. It might not be providing enough back pressure hence not running very well
1) Drive slowly, that's quicker and better for your car. On easter it'll be full as hell and there'll be lots of accidents. Main problem is how to get through the traffic jams without overheating the engine.
2) The O-Ring around the water pump might have been damaged while you were installing the pump (too much brute force). Use a new O-Ring, use a little bit of grease and gently remount the pump. When coolant comes out of the pump's bearings, then buy a new pump.
3) Don't worry about back pressure. Worry about overheating tyres, about oil, bikers or both behind a corner in the middle of the track (had that a couple o'times), worry about your safety.
1. Couldn't agree more! I wont be going hell for leather, I want to have smooth safe fun!
2. I really blooming hope not! One thing I'm worried about is that when we took the old pump out it came out in multiple pieces, and had to be hammered/chissled out. Unfortunately in the process the block got a little scored. I've been in there with the emery paper and smoothed out what I can but it's possible the o-ring might not seal :(
When I put the new one in I greased the o-ring and the pump slid in fairly well. It did need to be tightened up to be seated so I did this progressively around each opposite bolt.
Well only one thing I can do! Pop it out and see what the situation is!
3. When we were going round last year the bikers did give me the bejezers! I'm a biker too and would definitely think twice about going round the ring. Bikes and Cars on a track at the same time is a little iffy IMHO!
On the exhaust.. I think the mid box is blown (it was old) so I'm off to get a new one and modify the exhaust tomorrow. May leave water pump till Friday :)
So a little more info on how she's running....
On idle the engine hunts, when cold it's impossible to get idle unless the throttle stopper screw is wound in some way. wide band reading is close to pure oxygen which i'm taking a guess is the result of the ICV playing up. Once hot it doesn't stall but still hunts for idle.
When running the exhaust noise is awful (which is the mid box being no good i think). She feels gutless under 6k rpm, feels like overfueling. We've only tried the wideband on stationary idle and when stationary reving which shows a lambda of 12 so overfuelling looks likely.
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So day off work today... straight to the garage!
Sort of steps backwards and steps forward was the story of the day. Car's back on axle stands and the exhausts off. Popped up to Merlin Motorsport and bought a Jettex 400mm oval mid silencer and a 450mm round silencer.... oh and a couple of jubillee clips for the cold air inlet.
Back to the garage and exhaust off and angle grinder out finally got the new boxes tacked in and adjusted some angles that weren't quite right the first time. Changed the joint between front and rear to a sleave joint. Once the exhaust's on the car this will be tacked then taken back off for welding. There will be no joints that aren't welded other than downpipe to system. Should sort the awful exhaust noise and lack of back pressure (fingers crossed!). String welded up the joints in front and rear halves with the usual beautiful welds and comments to one of out mates of "just filling the canyon's inbetween phil's precision cut bits of tube"... lol
Got to pick up downpipe gasket tomorrow from the ever helpful Wellsway BMW (who seem to have every e30 318is part going) and then get her on for final fit.
Next job's the MAF bracket and then reseating the leaky waterpump followed by:
Bleed coolant system again! woohoooo
Fit harness eye bolts and harness
Replace ICV
Replace brake discs, pads and lines
Tracking
Run up and see if she runs right!!
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Wowsers... so I been busy!
Having major fuelling problems... grrr here's the thread I started on that:
http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8254
On the good news side she's running! And drivable.
String of BreedPerformance made me funky strut brace, powdered in bling and a cold air box for the inlet:
(http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/4181/image050t.th.jpg) (http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/4181/image050t.jpg)
(http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/7933/image051v.th.jpg) (http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/7933/image051v.jpg)
(http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/1371/image054.th.jpg) (http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/1371/image054.jpg)
(http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/987/image055a.th.jpg) (http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/987/image055a.jpg)
(http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/192/image056.th.jpg) (http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/192/image056.jpg)
Interior shot:
(http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/4918/image058q.th.jpg) (http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/4918/image058q.jpg)
Exhaust guard:
(http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/8551/image059j.th.jpg) (http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/8551/image059j.jpg)
(http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/9616/image060uqi.th.jpg) (http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/9616/image060uqi.jpg)
You forget how long they are!
(http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/1165/image061g.th.jpg) (http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/1165/image061g.jpg)
(http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/491/image064m.th.jpg) (http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/491/image064m.jpg)
Just got to get to the bottom of this running lean issue (or i know i'll blow it up), replace a track rod end get her tracked then we're off.....
ON SATURDAY NIGHT!
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Will have to see it when ya get back
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So good news tonight! The new adjustable FPR seems to have done the job and given me correct AFRs :)
So now it's a quick trip to BMW tomorrow for a code reading session (given up on trying to get mine to work), replace a bu**ered track rod end, tracking then service Stu's 350z.
The 3rd gen RX7 is now running, rumour has it the 1st gen is running too, thr 944 now has an MOT and the m42 seems good to go!
My word sounds like an adventure :)
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how you go on the weekend? i managed to claw my car together for quite a successful debut!
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Absolutely stonking weekend... 18 absolute flat out laps of the Nurburgring (six being mine), 1200 miles there and back and the car was completely flawless.
There's just a million things I could type about the weekend but best to go watch the vids... including String's 9.43 lap!! WITH AN OFF!
http://www.youtube.com/user/vitamingrin1