M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
FAQ / REFERENCE => How-To's => Topic started by: kowalski on March 10, 2006, 02:56:47 PM
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1x 25111434148 $37.45 z3 1.9 shifter
3. 1x 25111221849 $5.92 BEARING BOLT
4. 1x 25111220707 $13.73 BEARING, SHIFTING ARM
5. 1x 07129946400 $0.26 SELF-LOCKING HEX NUT
7*. 1x 25111469397 $7.60 each BEARING, SHIFT LEVER (*PN from Circle BMW. I don't know why it's different than that in realoem.com)
8. 1x 25111220912 $9.14 RUBBER BOOT
12 2x 25111220439 $1.02 each WASHER, PLASTIC 10X16X0,9/GELB 2 06/1986 09/1989
13 1x 25111220379 $0.70 CIRCLIP ZNS3
14 1x 25117503525 $15.07 GEARSHIFT ROD JOINT
15. 2x 25111221243 $1.24 each O-RING 10X2,2
16. 1x 25111220439 $0.51 SPACER RING
18. 1x 23411466134 $0.60 DOWEL PIN 1
19. 1x 25111203682 $1.50 TENSION BUSH
20. 1x 25111434194 $0.50 WASHER, PLASTIC
23. 1x 25111220837 $0.37 CABLE CLAMP 2 06/1986 09/1989
Total: $96.94
again, the instruction file is almost 600kb, how would i go about attaching this?
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you got it man:
Bending Selector rod (http://m42club.com/writeups/shifter/UUC_Selector_Rod_Modification_Instructions.pdf)
Installing the Shifter (http://m42club.com/writeups/shifter/UUC_Shifter_Only_Install.pdf)
credit: kowalski and UUC Motorwerks (http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/)
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installed a Z4 3.0 shifter lastnight. no bend required.
tad notchier than i was hoping for, but all in all, i love it...SSK in a 318is is a great upgrade.
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dwayne...!! you still in the game?!!! say it's true!
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installed a Z4 3.0 shifter lastnight. no bend required.
tad notchier than i was hoping for, but all in all, i love it...SSK in a 318is is a great upgrade.
no bend required in the 318is 89-91. i'm not sure about other years tho so i thought i'd keep the bending instructions up there.
but yeah, the shifter is awsome, you get used to the notchyness and you don't even notice it after a while
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I also have the z4 3.0 in my car, picked it up for 25 bucks used on e30tech :). I didn't replace half of the parts on that list(no offense), just the shifter bearing, the washers and circlips, and it feels like a completely new car. Great upgrade for our cars and cheap too. Give it an a++ for anyone who has been contemplating it.
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I have a Z4 2.5l and I love it. Same hight as a Z4 3.0l on top but shorter on the bottom = slightly less shortness and knotchyness. Once again, like others have said NO bending of the selector rod is necessary. I changed all bushings etc. when I installed the lever.
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Just did this one on Sunday, went with the milder z3 1.9 shifter. Super easy install, took me <1 hour, and I didn't know what I was doing. As noted above, well worth the time and effort.
Brian
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hello everyone! im noobie here and i have a stupid question. are you guys talking about putting a stock z3 shifter into our e30's or an after market short shifter for the z3?
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stock Z3 or Z4 shifter
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OK :D !! thanks, good to know. i love this forum! aftermarket short shifters for our cars are very expensive. how much will the z3/z4 shifter shorten the travel?
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(http://e30.electrontek.com/shift_levers/shift_levers_z-models.jpg)
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great! the pics really help, thanks asubimmer. im going to keep my eyes open for a z4 3.0 shifter.
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What do the numbers on the right represent in the shifter lever pic?
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it works and quite cheap ;)
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1x 25111434148 $37.45 z3 1.9 shifter
3. 1x 25111221849 $5.92 BEARING BOLT
4. 1x 25111220707 $13.73 BEARING, SHIFTING ARM
5. 1x 07129946400 $0.26 SELF-LOCKING HEX NUT
7*. 1x 25111469397 $7.60 each BEARING, SHIFT LEVER (*PN from Circle BMW. I don't know why it's different than that in realoem.com)
8. 1x 25111220912 $9.14 RUBBER BOOT
12 2x 25111220439 $1.02 each WASHER, PLASTIC 10X16X0,9/GELB 2 06/1986 09/1989
13 1x 25111220379 $0.70 CIRCLIP ZNS3
14 1x 25117503525 $15.07 GEARSHIFT ROD JOINT
15. 2x 25111221243 $1.24 each O-RING 10X2,2
16. 1x 25111220439 $0.51 SPACER RING
18. 1x 23411466134 $0.60 DOWEL PIN 1
19. 1x 25111203682 $1.50 TENSION BUSH
20. 1x 25111434194 $0.50 WASHER, PLASTIC
23. 1x 25111220837 $0.37 CABLE CLAMP 2 06/1986 09/1989
Total: $96.94
I think your parts prices are a little out of date. Again, I think this is a repost. Did you just order these? I went to order these and my cost on the shift lever was $57 with my 15% club discount. The total of all the parts here was actually about $150.
I decided to go with a single billet unit from Autosolutions.
http://www.autosolutions.net
See pic of the shifter here:
http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=514
That one piece replaces all the pluthera of parts listed above.
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The list is a tad overkill but it's personal preference. I would say to at least inspect yours to see what is actually worn. I have done this 3 times (sigh) haha and I don't remember that laundry list of parts being necessary.
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Don't forget that there is also this shifter one can choose
http://m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122
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The z4 3.0 shifter is great with a small but weighted shift knob as what i have in my car now.
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The list is a tad overkill but it's personal preference. I would say to at least inspect yours to see what is actually worn. I have done this 3 times (sigh) haha and I don't remember that laundry list of parts being necessary.
its not that many parts, most of it is small plastic washers and such. as for the prices, it shouldn't be outdated, because i did wrote this about a week before i installed it all.
edit: after 16 years, most things are worn on these cars. the first time it all needs to be replaced, after that pick and choose whats worn.
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its not that many parts, most of it is small plastic washers and such. as for the prices, it shouldn't be outdated, because i did wrote this about a week before i installed it all.
edit: after 16 years, most things are worn on these cars. the first time it all needs to be replaced, after that pick and choose whats worn.
Not challenging you at all. I have done a thorough rebuild and a less thorough rebuild and the shifting between the cars has not been any different. Some might have been done by a PO as well hence me sometimes waiting to take stuff apart before ordering. Personal preference is where it's at :D
Pricing is hard to maintain hence the need to sometimes omit it as people call up BMA etc and filp the shiet at a price tally that's a few pennies more :rolleyes:
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hahaha yes, that some people do... I got a pretty decent discount for everything tho cause i had a VERY LARGE order, so that might be why my numbers are a little lower.
And your right, the only thing that effected shifting for me was the new nylon cup for the shifter. But i figure some stuff might fatigue, like a clip or something, and for the extra 5$ or so in my opinion I'll spend it.
and like e9nine says, don't get mad about inflation!
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hate to resurrect an old thread but better than starting a new one... what is the SHORTEST shifter available? Also, where are you guys buying these parts from, dealers? I dont have any bimmer dealers nearby.
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http://bmaparts.com (http://bmaparts.com/)
Click on Specials>BMW>Short Shift Kit. $75.
You can pick any of the shifters in the picture above. The round rubber bushing is where the wear if any comes from.
As an alternative you can buy just the shifter itself and reuse all of your old parts. I would recommend buying the plastic bearing as it easy to crack it doing the remove and install on an 16-18 year old car. #7 in the drawing.
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AF93&mospid=47305&btnr=25_0026&hg=25&fg=05
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thats awesome D. Clay, thanks for that link. Now which one should I go with? It seems like the z4 3.0 is the most popular, but is it the shortest or is the z4 2.5 the shortest?
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thats awesome D. Clay, thanks for that link. Now which one should I go with? It seems like the z4 3.0 is the most popular, but is it the shortest or is the z4 2.5 the shortest?
Shortest isn't always the best choice if thats what you're thinking. I have the M Roadster/Coupe and it is a VERY short throw and sits very low. It is too notchy to most, but I enjoy it.
Remember, the higher the shift knob is, the less time it takes to bring your right hand down from the 2:30 position to shift.
http://www.e30m3performance.com/installs/ergonomics/my_approach2.htm
Read this, its very good.
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thats awesome D. Clay, thanks for that link. Now which one should I go with? It seems like the z4 3.0 is the most popular, but is it the shortest or is the z4 2.5 the shortest?
i'd like to piggyback on that question:
which is the shortest and with the least "notch"?
Thanks,
Chris
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To anyone who did this mod?
How and where did you jack up your car and place on jackstands to comfortably access the shifter lever and replace it?
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To anyone who did this mod?
How and where did you jack up your car and place on jackstands to comfortably access the shifter lever and replace it?
You can access the shifter lever from the top...theres just one clip below.
http://understeer.com/shiftlever.shtml
Take a look there!
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Thanks, but even still - gotta get under the car to remove the circlip and washer, remove selector rod. I had my car on stands this saturday and crawled underneath to the bellhousing and saying to myself, "Shit, the car just isnt high enough and I still gotta crawl at least another 3 feet, to which my chest would be in contact with the bellhousing.
I guess I'll try ramps next time.
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Thanks, but even still - gotta get under the car to remove the circlip and washer, remove selector rod. I had my car on stands this saturday and crawled underneath to the bellhousing and saying to myself, "Shit, the car just isnt high enough and I still gotta crawl at least another 3 feet, to which my chest would be in contact with the bellhousing.
I guess I'll try ramps next time.
I can't imagine why you would be so close to the bell housing...
Why can't you slide in from the side?? Thats how I was able to reach it.
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what's the best single or pair of bushings to replace to get the shift to be crisper? I have an E36 M3 shift rod waiting to go in to my '91 is.
I bought the odd shaped shifter bushing and the small foam pad that fits in it, as well as the plastic cup. I figure I can reuse the little yellow washers and circlips if they are in ok condition. I just want to take acare of some of the sloppiness in the shifting along with a mildly shorter throw. I could have waited for a z3 shifter rod but it probably would have cost more.
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Well I finally did this mod....had to take my car the local german car mechanic because I couldnt figure out my stumbling issue - so I had him install it while he had the car on the lift... When I got the car back, the shifter now sits 1-2" forward in neutral than before and shifting 1st,3rd,5th is now pushing up against the center console. He claims that the shifter arm underneath is too short. He's also asking me to ask you guys how long is the shifter arm from lever to trans so he can adjust a "fix" to it. I'm not quite sure thats necessary as all you have done it without issue.
I questioned him to a point without insulting him but what did he do wrong so I can correct it later myself? I used the Z3 1.9 shifter from BMA.
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Spin the selector rod 180 deg (after disconnecting the pin that runs though it) and see if that solves the issue or not. I don't remember if the 1.9 shifter has a kink in it or not...
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anybody running the Z3 1.9 shifter? or does anyone know the ratio of our stock shifter?
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NICE!!! With a friend, I was able to "flip" mine and low and behold its sitting properly now. Shifts are crisp and short. Like brand new!
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i just bought a 3.0 lever from the dealer, now will i have to bend the lever itself? cause it came as a straight lever from the factory, but the stock one i took out had a kink in it, will this screw up shifting and will i be hitting the console? or will it sit properly in the middle there.
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Nice write-up! I'm going to do this one too, but don't know yet wich rod I'll take.
Also pay attention to this one folks:
Remove the shift knob by pulling straight up
with a firm tug. Be careful as you can punch
yourself in the face when the knob lets go or
punch the rear view mirror since you’re
tugging at it so hard. I find that if you
position yourself so that you cover the shifter
knob like you’re covering a grenade, you’ll
pull the knob and you just hit yourself in the
stomach.
First time I pulled a knob I left the car with my nose bleeding :D
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i'd like to piggyback on that question:
which is the shortest and with the least "notch"?
Thanks,
Chris
+ 2.....................
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I just installed the Z4 3.0 and I love it. I had to slightly bend the selector rod since it was touching in 4th gear but I didn't change all the bushings so I assume that's the reason. I'll change them when I do my clutch.
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+ 2.....................
I'd say the Z3 1.9l. Its the least notchy and the throw is definitely shorter.
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(http://e30.electrontek.com/shift_levers/shift_levers_z-models.jpg)
Has any one used the Z4 2.5 and if so what is it like and is it simple to fit ie do you need to bend the push rod
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Can any one say what is the best one to use:confused:
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i would guess Z3 M or the Z3 3.0 if u want to move ur hand less.
but it has to be a balance between the feeling and the function.
shorter = more power to move it and vice versa. but if u are hee-man while driving u wont bother.
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I can not decide weather to go for the Z4 3.0 or the Z3-m does anyone have any suggestion's
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I say go for the z3-m. That way you can say you have an M-Powered tranny. I have a z3 3.0 and I love it. It is a bit notchy but I love the feel. Just my .02
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I just installed a Z4 2.5L shifter. In a side by side comparison with the stock 318is shifter, the Z4 shifter doesn't look that much shorter. The top portion is probably less than an inch shorter, while the lower portion was slightly shorter. After installation, the Z4 shifter, again, looked slight shorter but the throws were definitely shorter but slightly more notchy than the original.
I was hoping for a much shorter length as depicted in the pictures. Anyone share the same thoughts?
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Has any one used the ssk available from BMA? What were your opinions? Also is the kit comparable to the z3 1.9 or other?
thanks in advance,
eric
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Has any one used the ssk available from BMA? What were your opinions? Also is the kit comparable to the z3 1.9 or other?
thanks in advance,
eric
I installed my SSK and am happy except for the feel of the actual shift rod. I can twist it about 30 degrees in both directions (longitudinal axis) and it feels like I'm shifting with a hand full of wet spagetti.
I don't know if the rest of them are like that, or I just happened to get a shift rod with uncured dampening material:confused:
I've emailed BMA inquiring as whether they've seen or heard of any problems like this. Anyone else had this experience?
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it feels like I'm shifting with a hand full of wet spagetti.
haha.
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1x 25111434148 $37.45 z3 1.9 shifter
3. 1x 25111221849 $5.92 BEARING BOLT
4. 1x 25111220707 $13.73 BEARING, SHIFTING ARM
5. 1x 07129946400 $0.26 SELF-LOCKING HEX NUT
7*. 1x 25111469397 $7.60 each BEARING, SHIFT LEVER (*PN from Circle BMW. I don't know why it's different than that in realoem.com)
8. 1x 25111220912 $9.14 RUBBER BOOT
12 2x 25111220439 $1.02 each WASHER, PLASTIC 10X16X0,9/GELB 2 06/1986 09/1989
13 1x 25111220379 $0.70 CIRCLIP ZNS3
14 1x 25117503525 $15.07 GEARSHIFT ROD JOINT
15. 2x 25111221243 $1.24 each O-RING 10X2,2
16. 1x 25111220439 $0.51 SPACER RING
18. 1x 23411466134 $0.60 DOWEL PIN 1
19. 1x 25111203682 $1.50 TENSION BUSH
20. 1x 25111434194 $0.50 WASHER, PLASTIC
23. 1x 25111220837 $0.37 CABLE CLAMP 2 06/1986 09/1989
Does any of this change for the z4 3.0 short shifter, aside from the first thing listed?
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Anyone know the part number for the M shifter?
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I just ordered the kit from BMA yesterday. I didn't specify which shifter, so it came with the default Z3 1.9L one. I mostly want to get rid of the slop in the 20 year old shifter that is in there now, and a little shortening doesn't hurt. Has anyone taken a picture of the 318iS lever next to the others?
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On my e36, almost 15min! that is 5mm longer then scratched the shaft!
Sorry, my inglish is gogle translater:D
(http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/1281/dsc01499ad.jpg) (http://img7.imageshack.us/i/dsc01499ad.jpg/)
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I got my kit installed in about 30 minutes. This was very straightforward.
Initially, I didn't like it since it was super notchy & required a lot more force to engage. However, the car feels so much more lively now...the shifter provides a bit more feedback, and overall instills confidence in the mechanical condition of the car lol.
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Just ordered my 2.5 Z4 today so that should be here in a few days cant wait :D
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i have a short shifter in my car, it and i qoute " does not feel like my hand is full of wet spaghetti"
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Well my shifter is here just no time to fit it now:mad:
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Took delivery yesterday of this little baby :D
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j214/bimmerowner/CIMG2389.jpg)
When I fit it I will get pics up of the 2 side by side
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ancient bump.
just wondering is it required to remove the driveshaft to install the SSK, or is it only needed when you are replacing all of the bushings?
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ancient bump.
just wondering is it required to remove the driveshaft to install the SSK, or is it only needed when you are replacing all of the bushings?
Nah, you should be able to replace everything without having to drop the driveshaft. It will be a little tight but its do-able.
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Never mind, found what i was looking for:D
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Z3 3.0 shifter installed in 1990 318is E30
(http://www.imagehost.ru/data/8249/medium/DSC000482.JPG)
1 gear
(http://www.imagehost.ru/data/8249/medium/1gear.JPG)
2 gear
(http://www.imagehost.ru/data/8249/medium/2gear.JPG)
5 gear
(http://www.imagehost.ru/data/8249/medium/5gear.JPG)
rear gear
(http://www.imagehost.ru/data/8249/medium/rgear.JPG)
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thanks very much for the pictures. i was wondering about how far forward 1st/3rd/5th gear would move (I feared having to reach too far) but I see since the shaft is bent it doesn't affect those gears. Still, I like how the stock 2nd gear feels almost at the drivers waist, and it always makes me wish I had a dogleg gearbox like the MB 190 I drove. That's why contrary to most owners I don't want short shifter. Its not a Porsche after all with the tractor style stick visible down to the ground. The throw isn't that long at all and in my opinion by shortening the shifts you're just throwing out one of the enjoyable aspects of driving.
Could anyone with experience tell me what parts you should replace to give an old e30 the [almost] brand new notchy feel, rather than the 200,000miles sloppy feel. Theres a lot of very small parts down there, above the transmission, which play the biggest role? And can a transmission get so worn that it becomes impossible to retain a new feel? I've never touched a new (out of car) transmission, only really old rusty ones which feel really dodgy with that small amount of leverage...
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On my previous E30 i change all bushings. Gear changes got better, but IMHO SSK is better.
My father has MB E220 W124 with M/T. And after my shifter it is too long )
P.S.
Porsche Boxster S 1gen has long shifter ) but changing of gears is more precise than stock E30.
PPS
Sorry for terrible English :(
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Could anyone with experience tell me what parts you should replace to give an old e30 the [almost] brand new notchy feel, rather than the 200,000miles sloppy feel. Theres a lot of very small parts down there, above the transmission, which play the biggest role? And can a transmission get so worn that it becomes impossible to retain a new feel? I've never touched a new (out of car) transmission, only really old rusty ones which feel really dodgy with that small amount of leverage...
-Pick up a brand new shift lever
-purchase the UUC double shear selector rod http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/dssr/#pricing - search around for the right p/n its somewhere here or on R3V 100%
-25117503525
-http://www.akgmotorsport.com/catalog/catalog.php?category=e30%20Shifters - Shifter Housing Bushing Set - Delrin
That should give you great shifter feel ;)
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looking good up there Roman.
im thinking about going with the 3.0 ssk as well, i heard some one mention that there is no bending required when installing the 3.0 shifter into a e30 m42. can some one confirm this?
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Going to be posting up my X5 3.0 shifter soon with a comparo between my Z3 1.9.
This is a taller lever that should still provide the nice short throws that the Z3 1.9 but with added comfort. It will also improve the overall feel when driving the car at the track...shorter distance between your hand and shifter :)
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hj5dkuxQLr8
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_wyi3Rqkw7No/TJU9yI0dPmI/AAAAAAAABiU/NzuDDsBEgE8/s800/IMG00016-20100918-1632.jpg)
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_wyi3Rqkw7No/TJU9yaQGraI/AAAAAAAABiY/DD8lWJ0kE4w/s800/IMG00017-20100918-1632.jpg)
Thought some of you might want to see this. I just installed it and I'm in love.
It's perfect, its a tad shorter than the Z3 1.9 Lever but not even close to being as knotchy as the Z4 levers are. Its a good 1" - 1.5" taller than the Z3 lever. I also have the UUC double shear rod installed so everything is nicely weighted now. Also, I had to shave down the area where the lever slides into the uuc rod because it was slightly wider than the Z3, you should be able to see it in the pics above.
It'll be a hoot on the track!
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When I was preparing to do this, I had a hard time deciding which shift arm to get. I could only find a video of dude8383's x5 shift lever and a z3 1.9 shift lever. I wondered what the z4 3.0 shift lever was like, as it is the shortest of the short. Well I got the z4 3.0 shift lever so it's time to answer that question for those that want to know:
Here's a crappy pic of the difference:
(http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm26/e30Andym42/Snapshot_20101231.jpg)
Before:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jf8QHIAT0R4
After:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LVvOZ4cEs1M
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Just a few thoughts on my shifter refresh.
It has been mentioned that you really don't need all of the parts listed. Here is my personal short list of what you do need/want:
shifter of your choice
1x 25111220707 $13.73 BEARING, SHIFTING ARM
1x 25111469397 $7.60 each BEARING, SHIFT LEVER
2x 25111220379 $0.70 CIRCLIP ZNS3- updated design, much better than stock
1x 25111434194 $0.50 WASHER, PLASTIC - this is actually the foam insert for the rod joint
4x 25111220439- yellow shim washer
You really shouldn't need to buy the rod joint, which has jumped in price to upwards of 30 bucks. If you do feel the need, buy the MTM one as well as the foam insert listed above. it costs <20 bucks. If you buy anything for this area, buy the foam insert. If you are careful you should not need the retaining bush for the rod joints pin(pn 25111203682 ).
Just my .02 to save you a few bucks and get the most out of it.