Yeah, good luck with that. You don't see too many BMW turbo builds for under a grand, and there is a good reason for that. If it works out, great, if it doesn't just swap in a 24v like everyone else.
Yeah, good luck with that. You don't see too many BMW turbo builds for under a grand, and there is a good reason for that. If it works out, great, if it doesn't just swap in a 24v like everyone else.
Mine cost 1500 and if I had to do it again it would be just over a grand and at 7psi I pull away from a 328s in my e36 m42... it's alot simpler then people think but with that said I don't want to see a milion turbo m42's going around and taking the fun out of being special haha
Mine cost 1500 and if I had to do it again it would be just over a grand and at 7psi I pull away from a 328s in my e36 m42... it's alot simpler then people think but with that said I don't want to see a milion turbo m42's going around and taking the fun out of being special haha
This idea of a budget Build Turbo M42 has so so very intrigued.....I would love some details on your build!
Im willing to fly out and if you pay my way and parts plus $500 labour... you will have a smile and lots of speeding tickets lol
So installation will hopefully happen next weekend and the ensuing week.
Thanksgiving break ftw.
If this works within budget I will convert from Christianity to Danny707ism.
And then I will demand a bible, detailing exactly what I need to buy and how to rig it all up. :D
If this works within budget I will convert from Christianity to Danny707ism.
And then I will demand a bible, detailing exactly what I need to buy and how to rig it all up. :D
lol yeah, this has me so interested. I like the idea of a low-boost option without any real tuning needed, and would be safe for a stock motor.
I can afford ~$1000 easily. It'd be so worth it if it works out! Get some power. Maintain reliability. Life is good.
have any of you been on the dyno to see what power you make on 7psi and what are you using to adjust timing and fuel and are you using the factory afm?
it's more like 185whp
Awesome.
Hey are you running your AFM after your turbo?
Do you have any tuning software or is it stock ecu?
Danny, great budget relocation on the coils!
Nobody seems to stick much where the battery once was on E30's before it got moved the to boot :)
So we test fitted the turbo today, and as luck would have it, it doesn't fit.
I'm going to have to fab up an adapter tube and plate to lift the turbo and move it away from the motor some.
I did change my thermostat and delete my A/C though, all was not lost.
I also might be looking for a smaller turbo, if someone could point me in the right direction that would be great.
So we test fitted the turbo today, and as luck would have it, it doesn't fit.
I'm going to have to fab up an adapter tube and plate to lift the turbo and move it away from the motor some.
I did change my thermostat and delete my A/C though, all was not lost.
I also might be looking for a smaller turbo, if someone could point me in the right direction that would be great.
There is a guy who built something similar, he also used one of the m5x manifolds off ebay. Seems to work fine as long as the plate is true and the surfaces seal properly. Go ahead and finish this up so you can prove me wrong. By the way, are you running a wideband or is that afr gauge just fuh raze.
Yeah I saw his thread, and now I know what I have to do.
The AFR is a narrowband, but its all the need at the moment.
I'll use it to tune the FMU.
Well go build it instead of replying 30 seconds after I post something, haha. As much as I hate to say it, good luck, and I hope it all turns out.
(http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e62/Lostnomore/Photo-0036.jpg?t=1227564100)
Right there.
Subscribed... very interested.
I already have the turbo as well... off a volvo, not sure which one. It does have an internal WG though. I was told (and thought) that it would be near a perfect size which would spool quickly with this motor. Was quoted somewhere around 2700 rpm which is exactly where I'd like it. Anyway, nice work so far... and I wish you luck so that I may follow in your footsteps. Shooting for the 180rwhp mark.
I already have the turbo as well... off a volvo, not sure which one.
I have a question... how is the turbo oriented? The flange on the manifold makes it look like the downpipe off the turbo would be going into the cylinder head.
hmm I'm also very interested in this. My friend has like 3 or 4 turbo's from his eclipse, so all I need is manifold and intercooler and all that. Question: Would any recomend the OBX turbo manifolds off ebay?
copy-paste from another forum:
TC05-12A (Mitsubishi G63B)
Also from the early ‘80s is the TC05-12A turbocharger as used on the 2.0 litre G63B powered Mitsubishi Starion.
In standard form, the G63B turbo engine makes anywhere from 110kW to 125kW - depending on spec and market. We’d be comfortable using the TC06-12A for up to 150kW but, again, this turbo is only air-cooled so don’t expect tremendous durability.
The compressor inlet is 53mm diameter and the discharge nozzle is flared to around 54mm. The turbine passage is 46mm diameter and the 4 bolt mounting flange measures a 99 x 77mm. The dump pipe is a simple 3 bolter.
This might be a bolt-on for some Mitsubishi engines, but be aware that it another aging design.
_______________________________________
other infos: http://starion.mrbdesign.com.au/turbos.html
http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/171687-mitsubishi-turbo-tc05-12-map.html
http://www.cityturbo.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=15824&sid=a88a9a88ac80c80750bafa4dfbf5e245
Its fully spooled at 3500, a little later than I thought but meh, its ok.
how much of a gain in hp?
I'm leaning out at ~4500 in second gear :(
I need to turn up the rrfpr.
How do you get your air/fuel ratio figured out? do you have an LC-1 installed?
like 980 bucks or something.
I'll get a list together somewhere, I'm having trouble leaning out still.
you need to run 1deg colder plugs... NGK volvo turbo plugs is what I recomend ....your pump must be weak or your fmu is set incorectly... good luck
Ngk
r5672a-7
So the guy that sold me all that shit on craigslist lied when he said the FMU is 12:1, its 5:1 from a JR super charger kit.
And THATS why I'm running lean.
Ok so I rebuilt my turbo and re ran the oil feed today, after I plug in the new FMU and get it running tomorrow I'll take pictures.
Well 30lbs is definitely overkill lol.
Runs so rich at idle that its loppy.
But meh, pulls way harder and stays rich through boost, we'll see if the computer learns in 30lbs over a few days.
So I'm trying to follow all this and a lot of it is new to me. I'm interested in budget building as well and am willing to take some time and collect the parts I'll need.
Any way of putting together a "shopping list" of essential parts and the cars they come from etc? Mitsu or Volvo turbo or Isuzu intercooler etc.
I see you are testing various parts so I assume things can always be improved down the line. Great info so far, I'm also looking at the thread on the bottom mount turbo option.
And I can't tell how close or far you are from your goals:
"7 psi under a grand.
~175whp without pulling the motor.
Done in a weekend."
I really do appreciate it. I had some of those things in mind as I've read through things.
I'm going to see how many Volvo 740 turbos I can rape for parts as it looks I may just need one or two good donors in the PNP.
Volvo turbos have internal WG too correct? So all "management" is done with RRFPR and stock computer? We've got no knock sensors so I guess we are just relying on the forged bottom end to take the stress.
So welding is necessary right? Only for the manifold? I need to get some more friends...
I really do appreciate it. I had some of those things in mind as I've read through things.
I'm going to see how many Volvo 740 turbos I can rape for parts as it looks I may just need one or two good donors in the PNP.
Volvo turbos have internal WG too correct? So all "management" is done with RRFPR and stock computer? We've got no knock sensors so I guess we are just relying on the forged bottom end to take the stress.
So welding is necessary right? Only for the manifold? I need to get some more friends...
We've got no knock sensors
I dont think your m42 has knock sensors
Roger that ;)
It hasn't learned the injectors.
It does hesitate and idles rich.
I'm moving to 24lbers.
get timing case gaskets :)
I would be jelous too if I spent 5000+ on a setup and found out that someone else got simular results spending 1500 or less...lol...prop's on this build danny
get timing case gaskets :)
Yeah I think you may have a slight leak there chief. Also, your turbo is glowing red hot, that or its blushing that you pulled it out of a scrap heap to install during your fuh raze turbo build.
so how much have you spent at home depot so far on this build. those rubber reducers are epic..
what are you refering to
Yeah well I was being sarcastic. I hope more of you don't read this as a how to guide to turbo your car, honestly. And to say you are going to get similar results from a $1500 build compared to legitimate turbo build with some kind of tune-ability is childish. There is a reason the cliche "you live and learn" came about, that 24v swap may be closer than you think, if you don't do this shit right. More power to you though, I just hope your little panda stays off the endangered species list, roflcopter.
funny! I run toe to toe with a e36 m3 at 10psi with no tune and a motor with 220km and over 20000kms on a EBAY! turbo...I guess I'm just geting lucky though... you are right about the live and learn... If I had of messured twice and cut once I could have saved even more money...I find the above comment to be very narrow minded and degrading to the people who put there blood, sweat and tears into there builds ... thanks!
Opinions are opinions are opinions. Let's not turn this into a sob story, I mean come on. Sorry for tainting your e-feelings.
Don't worry, I'm down with the brown. I would love to see you get some kind of megasquirt setup going after you get it running on the reg. I just think your "aura" over on r3v gets my panties into a bunch. Shit if you lived around my parts we would probably be buddies. Get this bitch running right, don't grenade it, and take what you learned and do a proper build down the road. I just like poking fun, no harm, no foul.
you always gotta learn somehow. as long as each build/attempt is improved upon and you learn from mistakes, you're on the right track. keep wrenching and things will continue to come together better and better.
Ok so there is a weird sound when I'm under boost at high rpms.
It sounds almost like little rocks going through the intake...
I just went out and drove it again and it seems to be coming from behind me
The engine temp stays at a 1/4 mark.
The a/f is really rich, even under boost. It doesn't hesitate and it pulls hard all the way to the top.
The sound sounds like its coming from beneath my feet of right in front of the dash on my side.
TG how much for the spark plugs?
Also I might just hold off on the megasquirt for now if I can get this figured out.
ya, all four
So, I'm trying to figure out what to spend my paycheck on, brakes and clutch or megasquirt?
LOL, how bad are the brakes and clutch?
In the normally aspirated Supra, as with any normally aspirated car, these vented are plumbed into the intake near the throttle body. This effectively burns any excess gases which escape in the combustion process. However, in the turbo Supra, and again as with any turbocharged car, you have an additional problem to worry about -- intake plenum pressurization. If a turbocharged car was only connected to the throttle body, every time the car hit positive boost pressure, the pressure would effectively pressurize the PCV system and force additional air into the motor -- and I don't mean where it should be going :-). That's why the turbo Supra PCV pipe is connected to both the throttle body and the intake pipe (before the turbo). That way, under boost pressure, the pressurized air coming out of the throttle body now will take the path of least resistance and skip past the valve covers and instead vent to the intake (accordian) pipe. This will also create a low pressure area over the hose barbs and generate a slight suction to pull out any excess pressure in the head.
Catch can in.
From valve cover breather:
(http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e62/Lostnomore/0301092213.jpg)
To catch can, other hose goes to throttle body.
(http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e62/Lostnomore/0301092213a.jpg)
plug and play mS? more details on this please. I have a haltech E8 that i wired in last summer but due to time problems trying to work out some glitches I had to swap all the stock stuff back in. I really dont want to go through the trouble to wire it all in again, so if i can get a pnp settup that would be sweet.
plus, ms seems to be getting better by the day...
great job Danny, you're a great guy! maybe i should do the same to one of my M42! however i would ask you few questions... have you ever thought of modifying the timing by moving sprockets on tapped holes? by retarding valve opening the engine can help the turbo filling better the combustion chamber.
then, do you really need an RRFPR pressure regulator or you can do the same with a normal pressure regulator attached to the aspiration of the turbo?
last question is about the brake booster, running in turbo configuration you remove it or it works fine anyway?
hope you can understand, i'm italian and my english is not so good, expecially when talking about such techinical things!
Post up the part number, should say TD04 or TD05 and then a dash and a number and a letter.
I did think about it, but because of my stand-alone megasquirt, I no longer have to.
That's basically what an RRFPR does. If I understand the question right that is.
Booster works fine. No worries about your english, I'm happy to help.
Doubt it will spool by then. My turbo is smaller than that and spools at 3500 in first gear.
You'll probably be at ~3000-3500 in first gear as well, seems to be a staple on this motor.
At 7 psi? Seriously?
ups my bad i mean it on 0,7 bar :) 10 psi
this is quite correct but remember that Danny is running with stock internals and without opening the engine! you cannot run 220hp on a stock engine with 10:1 compression ratio...
X danny great work, 191hp to the crank is an excellent result! are you with the megasquirt?
these motors are good till 12psi and 220whp
this is quite correct but remember that Danny is running with stock internals and without opening the engine! you cannot run 220hp on a stock engine with 10:1 compression ratio...yes he can and must have more power ! i mean it from my boosted m42 in the begining before 6 years mine 318is was with stock internals with stock IHI turbicharger taken from subaru legasy i boosted on 10psi at 10:1 CR and than have 230hp and 290 nm on rear wheels i also have bad tune on ignition advance because than i run with athmosfere tune chip without boost retard. If All tune is corect at that pressure 240 250hp is possible
X danny great work, 191hp to the crank is an excellent result! are you with the megasquirt?
I got a ref ticket :(
Car goes back to stock now.
Ref ticket?
Its a state smog referee, its the big boys lol.
On the fuel return line after the rail.
The line right off the rail goes into the "in" then plug the original return line into the out.