M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => General Topics => Topic started by: xwill112x on November 14, 2008, 04:19:50 PM
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ok, so i sold my first e30 sterlingsilber 318is, times were bad and i needed money..& some other stuff i dnt wanna tlk about...:(
but then i find a beautiful 91' sterlingsilber 318i with 122952 on the odo FOR CHEAP(500$$!! FTW) that some old lady had driven for quite some time..up until she ran it through a ditch and dented the piss out of the drivers side doors, and mushed the valnce up against the front tires. :mad:
i replaced the valcne (with the 325is oil cooler plastics) and foglights (previously had delete covers)..
so im still left with the dents, i can live with those.:o
i added a AEM dryflow intake cone filter, bosch +4's, dropped the oil pan, tighted up the 2 remained bolts in the sump, and put the other 4 back in, replaced the tensioner, hurst shifter knob, and removed the spare tire, and a set of gun metal basket weaves with falken ziex tires.
it still doesnt have the "umph" that the other car had, i was wondering what kind of weight reduction i could do, while still keeping it practical and streetable, ( aka i dont want to rip 1/2 the interior out as it is my DD)
or also any mods i could do for CHEAP or for near nothing because cash is real tight again, and i DO NOT plan on selling this E30.
chips, would be great...but out of question b/c they cost to much right now..exhaust..i dont want to spend 70$ on a job that makes it sound ricy?
and anyone located in nc, sc, va, ga, tenn, in the us... could you tell me how much a descent clutch job would be, because ive called around and the shops wouldnt give me any info :mad: and although im am a huge DIY, i dont feel confident with tackeling a clutch job yet...
just any general info on this would be greatly apprciated..
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I did the clutch and swapped a tranny into my M42 and i tell you what its really easy. Granted its not as easy as paying 300-600 for a new clutch installed but i got away with doing an entire clutch kit for 200. It was too easy the tranny in this car is super light. I was able to move it out with one arm.
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thanks for the speedy reply, i dont have a desent lift/jack...though
to be honest, i lifted the car to do the oil panwith the oem one in the trunk..
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i added a AEM dryflow intake cone filter
I'm skeptical about this but ok.
bosch +4's,
Lose these. Get NGK brk6ek plugs. Bosch platinum plugs are garbage.
Get rid of the clutch fan and auxiliary fan. Replace them with one large electric puller fan.
Ditch the power steering pump
Find some 22# injectors in the JY. Usually fords from the late 90s use the correct bosch injectors and most european built cars from the same era. See the "mustang injector" thread.
Fix the vacuum leaks under your intake manifold.
Replace the spare tire with a can of Fix a flat
Find a set of spark plug wires on any volvo 850. The newer with the least amount of miles the better.
Check the voltage at the batery with the engine running. If its showing anything less than 13.5v its time for a new voltage regulator. It makes a difference in both power and fuel economy.
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thanks for the speedy reply, i dont have a desent lift/jack...though
to be honest, i lifted the car to do the oil panwith the oem one in the trunk..
I will admit i used a floor jack to get the tranny up in there straight (could have been done solo if i didnt weigh 140lbs) but i just drove my car up on ramps and did the entire job that way. I did find out the hard way that they did not include a clutch adjustment tool and my universal didnt have the correct bit
PS: Tits your sig is Tits
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tjts1, thanks for all your input...ive seen your thread on "mess under the intake" but how could you tell which lines where leaking and which lines werent?
and could you possibly point me in a direction of a website with electric fans for cheap?
and i thought you had to do a MAF conversion for the injectors to do any good?
and as my intake ges...i removed the peice of plastic behind the head lights and stuck it there..i can tell a diffrence in throttle response at 45+ and especially on high way in 3rd gear:cool:
ahh so many questions!
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I don't think you have to do a MAF conversion to take adv. of the larger injectors, not 100% on that, but I think Metric Mechanic's M42 sport/rally engines are larger displacement, use larger injectors but still use the factory AFM, and even the factory throttle body for that matter, as my memory recalls.
They do use a "pulse chamber" intake manifold that is a modded OE manifold that has chambers to normalize airflow / backpressure issues.
Either way, they have custom chip's by Mark D made for their engines, suggesting it even uses the factory ECU.
On a side note I installed a heatshield around my 3" cone that is placed behind the drivers headlight area, makes or breaks it if you are not moving at high speeds.
If you plan on keeping the car, make sure its tight, then drop a chip in it for starts. Get the suspension tuned and tight, will make any extra power more fun and controllable.
"The car (chassis / suspension) must be as fast as the engine"
Otherwise its pointless to have all the power and no control, even in a 1/4 mile race.....
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tjts1, thanks for all your input...ive seen your thread on "mess under the intake" but how could you tell which lines where leaking and which lines werent?
There are 3 circuits in the "mess under the intake". Crankcase ventilation, idle control and throttle body heater. The crankcase vent runs from the valve cover at the front of the engine to the bottom of the TB. The idle control runs from the large black plastic elbow (between the AFM and TB) to the intake manifold near the firewall. The coolant circuit runs from the side of the head between cyl 2 and 3 to the black plastic pipe. We now know that this circuit can just be capped off at both ends.
and could you possibly point me in a direction of a website with electric fans for cheap?
I used a Volvo 940/960/850 fan from the junkyard. It doesn't get much cheaper than $12. A few other people on here used the same fan with good results.
http://www.m42club.com/forums/showpost.php?p=27468&postcount=84
and i thought you had to do a MAF conversion for the injectors to do any good?
and as my intake ges...i removed the peice of plastic behind the head lights and stuck it there..i can tell a diffrence in throttle response at 45+ and especially on high way in 3rd gear:cool:
ahh so many questions!
Theres a lot of internet "experts" that have never actually done it who will tell you how you're wasting your time with injectors. I still have the stock AFM in place. My high beam CAI and 22# injectors go hand in hand. A proper CAI does make a difference on this car.
http://www.m42club.com/forums/showpost.php?p=48698&postcount=9
good luck
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There are 3 circuits in the "mess under the intake". Crankcase ventilation, idle control and throttle body heater. The crankcase vent runs from the valve cover at the front of the engine to the bottom of the TB. The idle control runs from the large black plastic elbow (between the AFM and TB) to the intake manifold near the firewall. The coolant circuit runs from the side of the head between cyl 2 and 3 to the black plastic pipe. We now know that this circuit can just be capped off at both ends.
so what i do is just cap the coolant ends? but the rest is just the matter of replacing the dry-rotted bit of rubber tubes (or whats left of them)?
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I used a Volvo 940/960/850 fan from the junkyard. It doesn't get much cheaper than $12. A few other people on here used the same fan with good results.
and dont some member's here just get rid of the fans completly? would it be ok to do that..or would i have over heating issues?
ahh still so many queations!
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so what i do is just cap the coolant ends? but the rest is just the matter of replacing the dry-rotted bit of rubber tubes (or whats left of them)?
Yup. Cap these off.
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/194/495150433_e5fae4f1df_o.jpg
and dont some member's here just get rid of the fans completly? would it be ok to do that..or would i have over heating issues?
ahh still so many queations!
Maybe if you live in cold climate year round where you never ever sit in stop and go traffic but I wouldn't do that. All engines need some kind of cooling fan whether is mechanical or electric. You also need it for the AC to function properly.
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will i need to remove the intake manifold?
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tjts1...
what would i use to plug the coolant lines?
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what would i use to plug the coolant lines?
I used some bolts, silicone and hose clamps with cut pieces of the old hoses.
http://www.m42club.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=26&pictureid=146
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I haven't run a fan all summer. Just don't stop moving. :-)
I have one in the garage, I'll get around to putting it in.
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do you notice and power gains from removing the fan clutch?
and im lazy so i need pwrsteering:P
and what exact year mustang do i need to get the injectors out of for the 4pintle ones?
i looked at the thread..but theres so many part numbers flying...confused me a bit..
and is there anything else i could do for cheap that anyone knows of?
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I haven't run a fan all summer. Just don't stop moving. :-)
I have one in the garage, I'll get around to putting it in.
You have NO fan on the car at all? How does the car run when at idle for an extended period of time, or say when or if stopped in heavy traffic?
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^That's why he says just keep moving...
I run the volvo fan as well but it isn't kicking on automatically with temp, I think it's a problem with my sensor harness. So I just kick on the AC when in traffic which also kicks on the volvo fan. Works great.