M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => General Topics => Topic started by: Eurospec on June 02, 2006, 06:33:02 PM
-
What brand and weight oil do you use?
What weight oil would be ideal for 80-90 (sometimes even higher) degree weather? I'd also like to dampen the ticking as much as possible.
TIA
-
I'm using mobile 1 15w 50 right now and my engine is definitely noisy until it warms up when outsid temp gets below 60 degrees. But I think its a good weight for really hot weather, but only if your engine is doesn't leak any oil.
I'll prolly run 5w 50 either mobile 1 or Redline when the weather gets cooler.
What brand and weight oil do you use?
What weight oil would be ideal for 80-90 (sometimes even higher) degree weather? I'd also like to dampen the ticking as much as possible.
TIA
-
I'm using mobile 1 15w 50 right now and my engine is definitely noisy until it warms up when outsid temp gets below 60 degrees. But I think its a good weight for really hot weather, but only if your engine is doesn't leak any oil.
I'll prolly run 5w 50 either mobile 1 or Redline when the weather gets cooler.
I've been warned to be cautious about running synthetic oil in older engines or it may begin to start leaking like the Titanic. It's not definate, but a lot of people have had that issue.
If you've been running synthetic for years, keep using it, but I think problems can happen if you just make a switch with high milage.
I'm not saying don't do it, but proceed with caution. I decided to stick with dino juice and I still got leaks, so maybe they are inevitable.
I'm using Shell Rotella T. I like a heavier weight oil in this car (15w50).
-
10w30 Castrol Syntech (semi-synthetic) year round (0-105 degrees F.) with no problems. I rarely if ever get lifter noise. Usually I start to shortly after the indicator says it is time to chaneg the oil, which is around 8k.
Well to be honest, I had no issues untill my T-chain died, but that was due to slack and replacing the tensioner after it was too late.
Oh, and my leaks stopped when I switched from regular dino to Syntech.
Edit:Corrected dino to Syntech.
-
I've got M-1 15W50. I've tried heavier viscosity (this is alabama and it gets pretty hot), but it made the timing chain noisy.
-
valvoline VR1 racing 10W60 (sintetic)
-
I run the Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15W-50
Always warm or HOT weather in S.W. Florida...lol
I just like the convienence of being able to find it locally (Wally World, etc) and not having to special order high tech oils like Redline, Royal Purple etc....
-
For the ultimate in protection:
http://www.enjoythedrive.com/products/product_display.asp?product_id=1997
But, probably only Febi's engine is really worth using this.
-
I found this pretty informative:
http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html
-
Castrol Synthec 5W40 Next oil change I'll be running synthetic 20w50 for the summer.
-
I'm runnin 10w-30 at the moment. I had it in for winter but I haven't had any issues in the summer so its going to stay for now.
-
Oh, and my leaks stopped when I switched to Syntech from regular dino.
x2:D
-
Oh, and my leaks stopped when I switched to Syntech from regular dino.
x2:D[/quote]
Woops, that is actually backwards.
Mine stopped when I went to Syntech.
I actually went back to dino for one change to see if anything changed... The leak returned. Went back to Syntech and that is when the chain crapped out. Only 2000miles on that oil. :mad:
-
Here's an interesting find, choosing the right motor oil (According to climatic conditions in your area) (http://www.tuninglinx.com/html/oil-change.html)
Looks like I'll be going with either 10w40 or 15w50.
-
We have 10w40 in our cars. :). It's suppose to hit over 25 degrees celsius up here in Vancouver this summer though. Will 10w40 still be ok?
-
i think what 10W40 is not good for our engine, if I'm correct manual prescribes ..W50, so better use this or more and you will have better protection and higher viscosity in high temp situations.
-
We have 10w40 in our cars. :). It's suppose to hit over 25 degrees celsius up here in Vancouver this summer though. Will 10w40 still be ok?
With Synthetic or semi-synthetic you can drop 1-2 weights for a given temp range and not worry. It is much more stable.
Which I think is part of the whole leak myth. Many when going synthetic change to much thinner oil.
I have run 10w30from 0 F. (-17 C.) up to about 105 F. (40deg. C.) without problems. I would not try that on dino though.
Dino I use 10w30 in winter, 10w40 in summer (same temp range as above).
-
I've been using 10w40 w/o any problems. It doesn't get as hot up here (pacific northwest) than it does down in the southern parts :).
Thanks for the answer sheepdog.
-
Mobile 1 10w-30
I used to use amsoil in my turbo vehicles, Motul is really the best though.
It just depends on how much money you want to spend, the m42 will last forever with synthetic every 3k miles.
-
Mobile 1 10w-30
I used to use amsoil in my turbo vehicles, Motul is really the best though.
It just depends on how much money you want to spend, the m42 will last forever with synthetic every 3k miles.
You may want to take a look at this (http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html)site if you are changing every 3000 miles, read the first section and then scroll to the last section titled "Interpreting wear metals".
Ford and Conoco, as well as this sites testing has shown the MOST wear occurs in the first 3000 miles after an oil change. You are doing more harm than good, especially with Mobil 1.
-
How often should we be changing oil?
-
hmmm....very interesting