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DISCUSSION => General Topics => Topic started by: ClodKing on August 07, 2008, 05:26:11 PM

Title: coolant, no go
Post by: ClodKing on August 07, 2008, 05:26:11 PM

I drained, and filled my rad with coolant twice already.

My car's temp gauge will slowly raise, while it's parked and idling. I stopped the car once it went past the halfway mark.

I pulled the thermostat.

The engine is hot, but the main coolant lines are cool... got any ideas????

Title: coolant, no go
Post by: EN318isPDX on August 07, 2008, 06:01:49 PM

Quote from: ClodKing;54513

I drained, and filled my rad with coolant twice already.

My car's temp gauge will slowly raise, while it's parked and idling. I stopped the car once it went past the halfway mark.

I pulled the thermostat.

The engine is hot, but the main coolant lines are cool... got any ideas????

My guess is faulty coolant temp sender. Is your thermostat ever opening up? If the temp gauge goes above 50% and the lower coolant hoses hasnt heated up yet that means the thermostat hasnt opened. Meaning either bad thermostat or bad coolant temp sender.

In addition if the thermostat is opening up correctly and the sender isn't bad you are most likely dealing with a clogged radiator.

Title: coolant, no go
Post by: Wise Old Dog on August 07, 2008, 06:41:12 PM

I assume that you bled the air out of the system each time you refilled it.

Title: coolant, no go
Post by: EN318isPDX on August 07, 2008, 06:48:18 PM

Quote from: Wise Old Dog;54521

I assume that you bled the air out of the system each time you refilled it.

That's gotta be the biggest pain in the ass... about as much of a pain as the entire water pump replacement :eek:

Title: coolant, no go
Post by: nomad on August 08, 2008, 10:45:09 AM

yes, this car seems to be finicky on bleeding the system.
You think you do it right and then have a few 'heating up' incidents until you finally get that last bit of air out.

Title: coolant, no go
Post by: monty23psk on August 08, 2008, 02:15:36 PM

bleed, bleed, bleed. this engine is a pain to bleed because sometime takes 4 or 5 times. Advice, is make sure the engine is pretty much cold in between bleeds.

Title: coolant, no go
Post by: ClodKing on August 08, 2008, 03:22:21 PM

Ummm.... yeah.

I didn't know about the whole bleeding procedure... I didn't know any car needed that done to it. How would one go about doing that??


Also I gutted the thermostat. I thought that was the problem, so i took out hoping for a cure, plus more flow.

I usually remove the thermostats in all my vehicles during the summer, and reinstall during the winter. But before this car, all my vehicles have had 350 V8's..

Title: coolant, no go
Post by: monty23psk on August 08, 2008, 11:30:13 PM

From B Purcell website (http://www.esatclear.ie/~bpurcell/318ismaintenance.html#bleed (http://www.esatclear.ie/~bpurcell/318ismaintenance.html#bleed)

Bleeding the coolant system
Time = 10 minutes     Task=Easy

The engine and radiator are well designed to pretty much self bleed so this is not too difficult.

Remove the radiator cap.
Pour in a water/antifreeze solution (as required in your area) so that it reaches the level mark on the radiator.
 Turn the interior heater/air con to full heat and turn the fan to its 1st position.
Start the engine.
Continue to slowly add coolant until it is ~2"/50mm above the level mark on the radiator. Keep the level there while the engine idles.
After about 5 minutes the top radiator hose should be getting hot as the thermostat opens. Once this is warm, loosen the bleed screw slightly until some air or coolant comes slowly out (~3-4 turns).
Bring the revs up a little and watch the bleed screw. As soon as pure coolant with no bubbles is coming out, tighten the screw with the revs still raised.
Check the coolant level and replace the radiator cap.
With fresh water, wash down the area around the front and side of the radiator to remove any antifreeze which may have come in contact with the paintwork.
After ~1-2 hours of use, release the bleed screw again, bring up the revs, check for bubbles coming out and check the coolant level again.

Regarding the T-stat, just get the one with the lower temp readings so it opens earlier. I live it hot weather and always use the t-stat.

Title: coolant, no go
Post by: ClodKing on August 09, 2008, 01:52:49 PM

THANK YOU!!!

I am geussing the bleed screw is the huge philips style screw located at the very top of rad?

Title: coolant, no go
Post by: monty23psk on August 09, 2008, 03:53:40 PM

if you mean the one by the radiator cap, then yes.

Title: coolant, no go
Post by: vonkamp on August 10, 2008, 06:35:19 AM

Quote from: ClodKing;54586

THANK YOU!!!

I am geussing the bleed screw is the huge philips style screw located at the very top of rad?

Before you remove the screw, you might want to get a small easy out another bleed screw (or 2, they are cheap) from the dealer cuz they break real easy.

Title: coolant, no go
Post by: ClodKing on August 10, 2008, 01:06:59 PM

Really, eh?

I'll give it a whirl. And I'll make a call to Budd's BMW for a few of those screws...

Title: coolant, no go
Post by: monty23psk on August 10, 2008, 02:10:44 PM

you do not need to remove screw, just loosen.

Title: coolant, no go
Post by: ClodKing on August 11, 2008, 04:41:03 PM

I did it, and it works great now. The upper hose is getting hot, and the car is staying in it's respectable heat range.

I also did not break the bleed screw. Thanks fellas:D

Title: coolant, no go
Post by: Wise Old Dog on August 11, 2008, 05:09:38 PM

You'll need to bleed it a little in a few days to get the last of the "bubble" out.
Pain in the arse it is.

Title: coolant, no go
Post by: ClodKing on August 12, 2008, 03:34:54 PM

Thanks man.

I'll bleed it again very very soon.