M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
FAQ / REFERENCE => How-To's => Topic started by: doigal on May 28, 2006, 08:59:34 AM
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Whilst this is being done on an aussie spec e30 318i (m40), it should apply to all non M3 e30s. Just be sure to check before plunging into it! Also, this is a right hand drive car, so any references to driver or passenger side need to be reversed for US and europe. Any prices are in AUD.
There are a couple of reasons for doing the front - The bushes are shot and i need longer bolts for the strut tops to manage the strut brace better. Off to order some bits and bobs!
Also, the camber might be a little bit off from the last wheel alignment:
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y227/doigal/BMW%20e30%20work%20log/FrontSusp_Wheelalign.jpg)
Parts List
Noltec Concentric Control Arm Bushing (Part # N81364)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y227/doigal/BMW%20e30%20work%20log/NoltecFrontControlArmBushes.jpg)
$115 from GT suspension
Meyle Front Control Arms (Part # 31121127725 Left and 31121127726 Right)
$121 Each From Bavspares
Noltec Adjustable Camber Plates (Part # N44042)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y227/doigal/BMW%20e30%20work%20log/NoltecAdjustableFrontStrutMount.jpg)
$400 From GT suspension
Tools
Jack and floorstands
Decent size hammer
Scrap block of wood
Torque Wrench
Spring Compressor
Air impact gun
Sockets/wrenches - 13, 17, 19, 22mm
Extender bars
Installation
I'll try to cover this in a very basic step by step form - probably too much information for most, but it might help someone out there.
Firstly, loosen the wheel nuts with the car on the ground. 17 mm bolts here. Jack the car up and securely support it on jack stands. Everyone says it, and I will too - make sure that its secure and not going to crush you. Cars are heavy. Be smart about it. Take the front wheels off the car and place them to one side.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y227/doigal/BMW%20e30%20work%20log/FrontSusp_Jackstands.jpg)
Get them in properly!
Next is the brake caliper. This is a bit of a bastard to get off, and the bolts (at least on mine) were rather tight and stiff. A bit of oil on the two 19mm bolts should help, along with turning the steering wheel which ever way to get better leverage. Once this is out, support it by any means available. Wire is one choice, milk crates are another. What ever is around really, just make sure its secure and out of the way so you don’t rip out the brake hose.
At this point it’s good to take off the bracket that connects to the sway bar. Just a 17mm nut, but I’m told that it’s rather easy to snap this bracket due to rust/old age/seized bolt/etc. Just be aware of this, but brackets aren’t that much from BMW, so it’s not the end of the world.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y227/doigal/BMW%20e30%20work%20log/FrontSusp_Controlarmin.jpg)
The sway bar bracket with nut removed
After that you need to remove the control arm bolts and the tie rod bolt. First loosen the nuts that hold the arm in, including the 22mm bolt that you need to fall into the engine bay to get to. (hint - air gun and extensions) Leave the nuts on the end of the thread for the time being though, and leave the lollypop on for the moment.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y227/doigal/BMW%20e30%20work%20log/FrontSusp_Big22mmbolt.jpg)
22mm bolt is circled in red. This is the drivers side, the passengers side is a little harder to reach because of all the pipes and hoses
3 ball joints, lots of fun. Again, there are many ways to do this – a ball joint tool is one option. We didn’t have any, so it was a giant crowbar and a hammer to pop it out. Doesn’t take a lot of force, just needs a couple of big wacks with a seriously big hammer and your set. Once you've gotten the tie rod and the strut one on the control arm popped out, remove the lollypop (2x 17mm bolts, don’t strip them or your shagged!) and pop off the front cross member one. Take the control arm out and set about ripping the lollypop off the end.
At this point I should tell you that there is no need to be delicate about getting the old parts out. They only trip they take in your car from here is to the local tip, so don’t be afraid to cut through bushings if that’s what it needs to get it out. I found the easiest way to get the old one out was to hacksaw the metal casing (be careful of the lollypop though!) and then beat the crap out of it with a combination of a hammer, chisel and socket. Eventually the bastard falls out and you can get the new one in. The better option is to take the old lollypop (bushing and all) and the new bush down to a suspension place with a hydraulic press and get them to do it.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y227/doigal/BMW%20e30%20work%20log/FrontSusp_Oldbush.jpg)
Obvious battle (removal) damage aside, this isn’t in the best condition. The inner part has a lot of flex in it, so no wonder there was a lot of vibration at speed.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y227/doigal/BMW%20e30%20work%20log/FrontSusp_Oldparts.jpg)
Out with the old! Of the 4 ball joints in total, one was ok. The rest had a lot of play in them.
Next comes removal of the strut. Get a mate to hold it (its a heavy bastard) while you undo the three 13mm nuts on top of the strut (the ones under the bonnet). It might need a bit of wiggling to get it out from there, but it shouldn’t need too much.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y227/doigal/BMW%20e30%20work%20log/FrontSusp_Emptywheelwell.jpg)
Drivers side wheel well should look like this now. The passenger one is similar, with the exception of the pad wear sensor wire
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y227/doigal/BMW%20e30%20work%20log/FrontSusp_Emptystrut-above.jpg)
Drivers side strut top, minus strut.
Once this is done, whack the entire strut into a spring compressor of some descript (I was lucky enough to have access to a floor standing one), compress the coil a bit to get the load off the top mount, and using an air gun, remove the top nut and mount. Put the new one on using a new locking nut. (watch the collar orientation for the noltecs)
Its easiest to put the new control arm in before you put the strut back on. This is simple at this point - just put it in place and tighten the cross member 22mm nut up. Then put the strut back in (again get a mate to lift while you tighten the 3 nuts up top, its really heavy!) and put the control arm and tie rod bolts in. Tighten these up and then put the sway bar linkage back in. Almost there!
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y227/doigal/BMW%20e30%20work%20log/FrontSusp_Finished-Struttop.jpg)
The top of the strut should look something this now. Strut brace is obviously optional.
It is at this point that you want access to a press. Since this is a ghetto install, we don’t have one lying around. The next best option is a block of wood. Place the new bushing onto the empty lollypop, the wood on top of that. Then using a hammer... well you get the picture. Just make sure its on properly.
Check the torque on all the bolts now, as the next bit is time sensitive. Using some dishwashing liquid, coat the end of the control arm and the inside of the bush, then hammer the lollypop assembly onto the arm, bolt it in. Repeat for the other side and quickly get the car onto the ground. BMW recommend that you then leave the car still for 30 mins with a person in each of the front seats and the middle rear, a full tank of fuel and 20ish kilos in the boot.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y227/doigal/BMW%20e30%20work%20log/FrontSusp_Finished-controlarm.jpg)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y227/doigal/BMW%20e30%20work%20log/FrontSusp_Finished-bush.jpg)
Pictures of the shiny new parts!
Time taken: 4 and a half hours. I'm a total novice at this though, and 30 minutes of that was the car sitting. I have no doubt that if i did it again tommorow, it could be done in under 3 hours.
At this point you need to go and get a wheel alignment done. When thats done i'll post up the verdict on if its been worth it or not!
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Reserved for verdict
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Nice work! I bet the car handles 10x better now. Do you have an upgraded suspension on the car too?
Are those urethane bushings? Do you notice an increase in noise, harshness, or vibrations?
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Yep, Poly bushings in the CAB and the strut top. The car def has a noticable improvement in the front end - a lot lot tighter!
If anything its quieter, but that is probably more due to the fact of stuffed components to start off with. The suspension on the car is upgraded - eibach and bilsteins!