M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => General Topics => Topic started by: jrobie79 on July 07, 2008, 10:13:16 PM
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i cant figure this out, right after i start my car the idle sux, sometimes the car will even die unless i play with the throttle to keep it running, however after about 45 seconds it will stay on the next time I idle, say at a stop sign just when i first start it up. I replaced all the vacuum hoses and got rid of the TB heater plate, i change the fuel filter, air filter, valve cover gaskets, new spark plugs, i just cant figure it out, its almost like the car doesnt get any fuel at startup, i dunno what to check next, any suggestions please
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bad sensor is my guess.
i think theres one like a throttlebody position sensor or sumem like that, could be it.
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where is it located, and what the specs on it, like if i used a DMM to get a reading, is this info available anywhere?
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eh, i dont know right off hand...also..MAKE SUREEE that there isnt vaccum leaks AT ALL..it sounds exactly like a vaccum leak.
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I'm dealing with the same problem. I haven't had much time to really pin point the problem yet, but it's probably just your ICV. Try cleaning it. I'm leaning towards my fuel pump struggling to stay alive, but I've ruled out a lot of stuff so far. I had a complete no start to kick off my cold start idle joys! haha. Only once though, odd. Think it's my pump...
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I had a bad fuel pump and it caused poor running condition and also a poor idle. It managed to run on 13 psi of fuel for awhile
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i used the throttle body cleaner trick to check for vacuum leaks, ICV was cleaned less then 2 months ago, and the fuel pump was replaced with a brand new one less than a year ago. i dunno where else to check for vacuum leaks.
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i used the throttle body cleaner trick to check for vacuum leaks, ICV was cleaned less then 2 months ago, and the fuel pump was replaced with a brand new one less than a year ago. i dunno where else to check for vacuum leaks.
Take out the new ICV and clean it again. I got a brand new one and it ended up getting clogged up again (thats what i get for not dropping the tank)
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cleaned it out, same thing, which was is the arrow on the ICV supposed to be pointing as well, i dont think thats it however i just want to make sure. is there an idle sensor which might cause this, i was thinking to rule out the vacuum leak only because its only the first idle which runs like shit, after i drive and idle its fine.
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Dealing with this EXACT same problem. Below are what I have tried to fix so far with no luck. I am waiting on a new AFM. If the AFM doesn't fix it, I'll change the engine temp sensor, and finally the throttle positioning sensor mentioned above. It throws code 1222 which is Lambda. According to a few websites I've seen the codes listed the only things left it could be are the AFM, TPS, or engine temp sensor. Hope this helps you out.
Replaced/Fixed:
1. ICV (replaced)
2. Vacuum Leaks (did TB heater delete and replaced hoses)
3. o2 Sensor (replaced)
4. Plugs & Wires (replaced as part of maintenance)
5. Fuel Injectors (mustang 19#)
6. Exhaust Header Gasket (had a leak)
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getting the same code dunno what else to check, i just changed the plugs, ill throw my other m42 wires in there cause i know those are newer, looking for a cheap o2 sensor just out of maintence and maybe that will help, but other than that i dunno.
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Doubt the wires and/or o2 sensor will help. My bet is on AFM, TPS, or engine temp sensor. Getting my AFM in the next couple of days, will let you know if that makes a difference.
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alrite cool, im gonna swap my sisters stuff in 1 at a time and see if it helps, her car has no codes and runs perfect
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alrite cool, im gonna swap my sisters stuff in 1 at a time and see if it helps, her car has no codes and runs perfect
AWESOME! Let me know the results of this. I have had my car like this now for 6 months and am tired of it.
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Just an update... add AFM to the list for not solving the problem... Trying Engine temp sensor and then TPS this week. Any updates on ur end jrobles?
1. ICV (replaced)
2. Vacuum Leaks (did TB heater delete and replaced hoses)
3. o2 Sensor (replaced)
4. Plugs & Wires (replaced as part of maintenance)
5. Fuel Injectors (mustang 19#)
6. Exhaust Header Gasket (had a leak)
7. AFM (replaced)
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Another update. Replaced the engine temp sensor with no positive... or negative effects. Still hesitates/dies upon initial startup. After 30 seconds to a minute it is perfectly fine and runs great. I would feel bad about spending the $180 in parts that this has cost so far, but the car runs way better than it did before after warm up... so even though I haven't found the problem, the car is way more fun to drive. Going to take it in to a local shop and have them do a smoke test on it to see if there are ANY vacuum leaks from the gaskets. Need to try the TPS too. Also going to do a COP conversion when i get some more $$$. Hopefully one of these 2 will fix the situation as it is kind of annoying having to wait for the car to stop hesitating.
1. ICV (replaced)
2. Vacuum Leaks (did TB heater delete and replaced hoses)
3. o2 Sensor (replaced)
4. Plugs & Wires (replaced as part of maintenance)
5. Fuel Injectors (mustang 19#)
6. Exhaust Header Gasket (had a leak)
7. AFM (replaced)
8. Engine Temp Sensor (replaced)
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swapped in my sisters AFM, same thing, although i didnt really drive it for any extended amount of time, so this weekend i might take it out and swap again for a while this time. lemme know your progress
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swapped in my sisters AFM, same thing, although i didnt really drive it for any extended amount of time, so this weekend i might take it out and swap again for a while this time. lemme know your progress
I'll keep you updated. Remember to disconnect the battery to clear the codes. 10 minutes is fine. My car runs great for awhile after resetting the codes, but always comes back within an hour or two. Out of curiosity, do you have an exhaust leak at all before the o2 sensor?
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Any updates? I tried swapping my throttle position sensor... no luck. Now I am going to take it to a local shop that I trust and have them do a smoke test to look for any leaks that might be present. We'll track this down yet!
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Any updates? I tried swapping my throttle position sensor... no luck. Now I am going to take it to a local shop that I trust and have them do a smoke test to look for any leaks that might be present. We'll track this down yet!
Have you checked your fuel pressure? my m42 had starting out and idle issues because of the fuel pump. Filters are wicked cheap always replace them. I had to take my car down to the dealer to get my running issue figured out.. Local BMW shops couldn't figure it out for some reason.
My list of parts.
Intake Gaskets
O2
OEM Injectors
Fuel Filter
Intake L Boot
All Vacuum Lines
New OEM ICV
OEM TPS
Even with all that my car still ran poorly.
Fuel pump is what gave me all my horsepower back.
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Have you checked your fuel pressure? my m42 had starting out and idle issues because of the fuel pump. Filters are wicked cheap always replace them. I had to take my car down to the dealer to get my running issue figured out.. Local BMW shops couldn't figure it out for some reason.
My list of parts.
Intake Gaskets
O2
OEM Injectors
Fuel Filter
Intake L Boot
All Vacuum Lines
New OEM ICV
OEM TPS
Even with all that my car still ran poorly.
Fuel pump is what gave me all my horsepower back.
lol I've done everything on your list plus some but not the intake gaskets. Well, the car runs great after initial 1 or 2 minutes of stumbling. I put down 122rwhp after the stumbling so I don't think I am losing any performance. Would think if it were a fuel issue, it would stay the entire time the car was on? Plus it gets better if I reset the computer. But always comes back within an hour.
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I thought the same thing. I thought my car wouldn't run with a bad fuel pump. But it turns out that carbon had eaten past the intake filter and had slightly clogged up my pump. So part of the time i had 80% power but cold i had 30% of my power. If i filled it up i would put down a little more power. It was way more intermittent than i could have thought which is what made me think sensors like crank or cam.
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Here,s wishing you luck. I'm sure I'm not the only one hopeing you find the issue. Realy apreaciate the thread, I'm sure I'll refer to it alot when I get time ( and $$$ ) to do mine. Keep your heads up! :)
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no dice, my fuel pump and filter have both been replaced within the last year or year and a half, i did change my valve cover gasket, so maybe thats the problem, when i tackle the timing chain ill see if the problem is back when im done. any one get any luck?
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no dice, my fuel pump and filter have both been replaced within the last year or year and a half, i did change my valve cover gasket, so maybe thats the problem, when i tackle the timing chain ill see if the problem is back when im done. any one get any luck?
If i was you i would look for intake leaks by spraying brake cleaner in and around your intake..
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Well another swing and a miss guys. Replaced my TPS with no luck. Only thing left for me to change are the intake gaskets... but I sprayed a bunch of carb cleaner around the intakes... got no change in results. I think I am going to take it to my local indy to have them do a smoke test and find any and ALL leaks the car has. Will keep the updates coming.
1. ICV (replaced)
2. Vacuum Leaks (did TB heater delete and replaced hoses)
3. o2 Sensor (replaced)
4. Plugs & Wires (replaced as part of maintenance)
5. Fuel Injectors (mustang 19#)
6. Exhaust Header Gasket (had a leak)
7. AFM (replaced)
8. Engine Temp Sensor (replaced)
9. Throttle Position Sensor (replaced)
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Well another swing and a miss guys. Replaced my TPS with no luck. Only thing left for me to change are the intake gaskets... but I sprayed a bunch of carb cleaner around the intakes... got no change in results. I think I am going to take it to my local indy to have them do a smoke test and find any and ALL leaks the car has. Will keep the updates coming.
1. ICV (replaced)
2. Vacuum Leaks (did TB heater delete and replaced hoses)
3. o2 Sensor (replaced)
4. Plugs & Wires (replaced as part of maintenance)
5. Fuel Injectors (mustang 19#)
6. Exhaust Header Gasket (had a leak)
7. AFM (replaced)
8. Engine Temp Sensor (replaced)
9. Throttle Position Sensor (replaced)
Have you checked your fuel pressure yet? Replace your fuel filter? Wouldnt you feel dumb if you pay a shop to figure out you need a 10 dollar fuel filter :eek:
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Have you checked your fuel pressure yet? Replace your fuel filter? Wouldnt you feel dumb if you pay a shop to figure out you need a 10 dollar fuel filter :eek:
LOL yes I would feel dumb. But I did replace the fuel filter when I had a line go bad on me back there. Also replaced the injectors. Have not replaced the fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump but I wouldn't think that they would only affect the car on first start.
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Car is in the shop... will keep everyone updated... pray it does not cost me an arm and a leg :)
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Car is in the shop... will keep everyone updated... pray it does not cost me an arm and a leg :)
I hope it turns out to be something simple!
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Car is in the shop... will keep everyone updated... pray it does not cost me an arm and a leg :)
yeah i hope its simple for your sake to keep cost down, if it gets fixed lemme know what the problem was. thanks
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LOL you guys owe me ;)
Cost me $145 (2 hours of diagnosis). They smoke tested and found no vacuum leaks, did find 2 small exhaust leaks. No problems. Then they fuel pressure tested it 40 - 50psi. All is good there. So then it took them some time... I gave them my list of replaced parts, but they checked to make sure everything I replaced them with was good. No problems.
Problem turned out to be a factory service bulletin part. My motor that I bought did not have it... but it's an "amplification" pigtail harness that goes between the AFM and the circular connector that normally goes on the AFM. Seems BMW was having customers with production date 2/90-12/90 m42's come in with erratic idle problems and this was their solution to fix it. Part number is: 13 62 1 734 516. It is designed to amplify the signal from the potentiometer in the AFM to the DME control unit.
My results... car has not turned off on me yet on cold start. Idle is still a little erratic for a min or two but they said that was due to the cams I am running. They said they could adjust the timing if I wanted to try and smooth it out some more. I'm going to run it like this for a few weeks and see what happens. As a side benefit, my car was running lean according to the dyno I ran. Well now I feel like I picked up a few rwhp which I am attributing to the lean condition being fixed by the part possibly. It feels more peppy and fun. I want to have it dyno'd again now to see what it puts down.
Hope this helps you guys... let me know what your results are.
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LOL you guys owe me ;)
Cost me $145 (2 hours of diagnosis). They smoke tested and found no vacuum leaks, did find 2 small exhaust leaks. No problems. Then they fuel pressure tested it 40 - 50psi. All is good there. So then it took them some time... I gave them my list of replaced parts, but they checked to make sure everything I replaced them with was good. No problems.
Problem turned out to be a factory service bulletin part. My motor that I bought did not have it... but it's an "amplification" pigtail harness that goes between the AFM and the circular connector that normally goes on the AFM. Seems BMW was having customers with production date 2/90-12/90 m42's come in with erratic idle problems and this was their solution to fix it. Part number is: 13 62 1 734 516. It is designed to amplify the signal from the potentiometer in the AFM to the DME control unit.
My results... car has not turned off on me yet on cold start. Idle is still a little erratic for a min or two but they said that was due to the cams I am running. They said they could adjust the timing if I wanted to try and smooth it out some more. I'm going to run it like this for a few weeks and see what happens. As a side benefit, my car was running lean according to the dyno I ran. Well now I feel like I picked up a few rwhp which I am attributing to the lean condition being fixed by the part possibly. It feels more peppy and fun. I want to have it dyno'd again now to see what it puts down.
Hope this helps you guys... let me know what your results are.
My car has this pigtail such "extension/amplifier" I have tried running my car with and without it and it doesn't really make a difference on my car it seems.. I'm not really have much idle issues anymore since i replaced my fuel system. I get a lil problem on cold start due to my coolant sensor (i believe)
Thanks for sharing your information.
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LOL you guys owe me ;)
Problem turned out to be a factory service bulletin part. My motor that I bought did not have it... but it's an "amplification" pigtail harness that goes between the AFM and the circular connector that normally goes on the AFM. Seems BMW was having customers with production date 2/90-12/90 m42's come in with erratic idle problems and this was their solution to fix it. Part number is: 13 62 1 734 516. It is designed to amplify the signal from the potentiometer in the AFM to the DME control unit.
i got an august 1990 prod date, so ill look into this, how much is this part?
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i got an august 1990 prod date, so ill look into this, how much is this part?
Don't know... The shop I go to gave it to me free. I've taken cars there for the last 10+ years. They just charged me for the 2 hours of diagnosis.
But... that didn't fix my problem. It started doing it again today just like before. They said to bring it back in tomorrow and they were going to pull the valve covers and check the timing. I have to take the cam specs and all that good stuff so they can do it.
While it's there I am going to have them weld the holes in the exhaust that are before the o2 sensor and then reset the computer to see if that's it. The only time it REALLY got better was when I put in the brand new o2 sensor so maybe the holes in the exhaust are causing some problems.
Will keep you guys updated.
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That's very interesting about the pigtail for the AFM. Mine had this, but we removed it. Sometimes the idle is a bit lumpy, but it's sporadic. I'm going to reinstall it.
I think that the "amplifier pigtail" most likely contains an inline resistor--maybe for the air temp sensor or the potentiometer--to fool the ECU into adding a bit more fuel. If i had an extra pigtail it would be interesting to dissect it.
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anyone know how much these cost? and where i can get it from? aside from the dealer
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anyone know how much these cost? and where i can get it from? aside from the dealer
ttt
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^Best bet would be to try a junkyard I think. Or search the interwebs for the part number I posted.
On another note... I started a 150000+ mile 318is that does not have this problem. LOL now I know how smooth these things are supposed to be. Makes mine look like an all out race car on startup with it being so smooth and mine being so rough. We really need to figure this out guys. It's starting to haunt my dreams.
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if i can find another e30, im just gonna part mine out, the rust is getting to be a bitch and i really dont want to start welding in repairs on a 17 year old car, only to look at it in 3 months and see more rust. im moving to socal so ill look for one then. and this idle problem, ill live it with it for the next few months
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This problem has plagued me for nearly 2 years now as well.
It seemed to have begun immediately after I cleaned out my ISV and AFM with TB cleaner and attempted a hot air intake install. I've attempted and done the following with no joy.
Tried a known good AFM
made sure fuel pump connections were tight
(fuel pump 3 years old)
replaced all the hoses below the intake manifold
fuel injection cleaner
replaced with known good FPR
went back to stock airbox
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Ya the list of sufferers continues to grow. I've made no progress on this yet. The shop i go to still wants to pull the cam cover and check the timing. I want to convert it to COP to see if that will help the problem any. As always, I'll keep you guys updated with progress, or lack thereof.
A couple of buddies suggested maybe a thermal time switch. Do our cars have one of those? That's the first I've heard of that particular part.
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no dice for me as well, gonna tackle the timing chain replacement soon, ill keep this thread updated with results.
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Ok guys... I got some new info that could help us narrow this problem down. I spoke to the previous (original) owner of the motor I bought for my car and he said he is 100% positive it didn't exhibit any hesitation/idling erratically behavior. Also I talked to the dealer I bought my CAR from and he said the original motor (240,000mi) did exhibit that behavior. So something that didn't get swapped in with the new motor is causing this. I swapped the ENTIRE motor & access. This means the only things it could be are:
exhaust (clogged cat????)
vacuum lines to external systems (brakes, etc???)
coils
wires
Give me your insight gentlemen... I feel like this is a revelation that could help narrow this down.
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Ok guys... I got some new info that could help us narrow this problem down. I spoke to the previous (original) owner of the motor I bought for my car and he said he is 100% positive it didn't exhibit any hesitation/idling erratically behavior. Also I talked to the dealer I bought my CAR from and he said the original motor (240,000mi) did exhibit that behavior. So something that didn't get swapped in with the new motor is causing this. I swapped the ENTIRE motor & access. This means the only things it could be are:
exhaust (clogged cat????)
vacuum lines to external systems (brakes, etc???)
coils
wires
Give me your insight gentlemen... I feel like this is a revelation that could help narrow this down.
Coils maybe
Clogged cat is easy, go to an exhaust shop and ask them if ur cat is clogged. OR put your hand behind your exhaust and feel for good air flow.
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Hey everyone, I've also have been dealing with this issue on my vehicle. One thing that I may add is that I too just did a swap from an identicle donor car. Before my original motor blew a head, I had no issue with the idle. Until I did the swap, I went from a beat up 220K motor (orginal) to a very well maintained 120K donor engine.
-Eddie
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im going to swap wires from my sisters car, i know hers runs fine, ill let u know if anythign changes
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im going to swap wires from my sisters car, i know hers runs fine, ill let u know if anythign changes
Try to swap the coils too if you can... that way you can rule those out for me as well :)
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will be doing this tomorrow sometime in the afternoon
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sorry guys i couldnt do anything to my car, i just fractured my face in 3 places goin in for reconstructive surgery on the 10th, ill let u know after i get better any updates.
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sorry guys i couldnt do anything to my car, i just fractured my face in 3 places goin in for reconstructive surgery on the 10th, ill let u know after i get better any updates.
DAaaaaamn! Sorry bout that man! Dare i ask how it happened?
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playin baseball, collision in the outfield, i called the other guy off, apparently he didnt hear me, what are you gonna do tho, it happened, i was pissed, and i should be as good as new when its all done, and hopefully fix this damn problem.
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has anyone tried replacing their fuel pressure regulator?
Fixed my similar problems to your guys.
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oh, and aside from that. as we all know, the m42 vibrates quite a bit.... wires don't like to vibrate.
my point is, check all of your plugs, pull the rubber sleeve back on your plugs, and check for loose or broken wires, a multi meter works good too. I have experienced this on 3 separate occasions.
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Thanks for the tips... FPR is one of the few things I haven't replaced. Shop pressure tested the system at 40-50lbs which they say is perfectly fine. Don't know where they did that though. Weird though that it only does this at initial start if it is the FPR??? Will replace it anyway just for peace of mind.
Plugs/wires are new/tested. Will check them again just to be sure. Tried pulling the wires from the coils when it was doing the issue and each coil makes the engine run worse so it leads me to believe the coils/plugs/wires are good.
Keep the suggestions coming...
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could it be a timing issue, i know im about to change my whole system, maybe with the old chain loosening up too much, mine is overdue which is why i plan to change it but i cant while im disabled so just throwing that out there.
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I don't see it mentioned yet - but have you taken the time out to probe any of the connectors that go to any of the most common engine sensors to see if those are within spec per factory guidelines? It's possible that 1 or more connectors coudl have bad internal wires under the wire wrap - or broken wires, which would lead to malfunctioning sensors and/or engine issues.
Also, have you probed each of your sensors with a multimeter to see what their output specs are also?
I know you have stated that you replaced or cleaned your ICV - what is the output of it when probed, does it match the factory specs? If it is reading under or over the factory specs, it's going to cause idle control issues when cold, when hot, when at idle or when driving.
I too was having cold start issues. I probed my ICV and it was well below the specs per what the factory readings should be for that part. I then soaked it in carb/brake cleaner, let it dry - tapped it with a small hammer all around the exterior casing, then reinstalled and probed it again. This time around, the "hum" or "buzz" from the ICV when powered up was much stronger and the specs were within what the factory specs should be once probed. When starting the car from a bone cold start - no more problems starting it and no more issues with drivability as the engine was warming up.
Even if the ICV is new, is a used replacement, etc - I would still spec it out with a multimeter and post up your results. Also as I said above, I would start probing out the actual connectors that go to the engine sensors - it's quite possible either one or more are not connected 100% or there is damage to the actual wires in the casing.
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Thanks for the tips... FPR is one of the few things I haven't replaced. Shop pressure tested the system at 40-50lbs which they say is perfectly fine. Don't know where they did that though. Weird though that it only does this at initial start if it is the FPR??? Will replace it anyway just for peace of mind.
Plugs/wires are new/tested. Will check them again just to be sure. Tried pulling the wires from the coils when it was doing the issue and each coil makes the engine run worse so it leads me to believe the coils/plugs/wires are good.
Keep the suggestions coming...
could be the check valve in your pump, i bought a 12$ mech. fp gauge and plumbed it in in my engine bay, and it has helped me so many times.
did you check the TPS plug for breaks? and the hot/cold OHMS of the cam and crank sensor yet?
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i know my crank and cam sensors are within spec, as i checked the resistance on my motor and the same on my sisters and they are fine, and her car runs like a champ so on mine at least thats not the problem, still recovering from surgery so i havent checked anything else yet.
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Guys, if it were an electrical break... or bad connector, I think the problem would be intermittent. Not everytime you start the car warm. This has to be something mechanical or a sensor. Just checked my wires... they were fine. Will ohm out the cam/crank sensors next but as jrobles found, I'm sure mine will be fine as well. Still want to replace the FPR. I am going to seafoam this mutha soon too just for funsies. Will do that when I am going to do the next oil change.
But I am going to check the ICV and TPS plugs for wear because I would kick myself hard in nuts if I didn't... and found out later that's what it was.
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check the plugs. my car is doing the same thing, but it cuts out when driving. i was checking some things today with my dmm and found out that one of the wires to the tps came out of the terminal on the connecter inside the rubber boot. gonna fix it tomorrow and hopefully it fixes my problem.
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Checked the plugs for the icv and tps... pulled back the rubber and all that good stuff. All were good. Going to replace the complete exhaust system next and see if that has any effect...
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i did the same, i cleaned my TPS out no effect, checked wires, no effect, i know I have an exhaust leak, but i doubt thats whats causing this, its after the o2 sensor.
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Checked the plugs for the icv and tps... pulled back the rubber and all that good stuff. All were good. Going to replace the complete exhaust system next and see if that has any effect...
you can swap cams with me if you want to try that...also if you want to swap out parts to help locate the problem i dont mind. ur the tall guy in SA right? your car is sick. im the guy with the white 318 we met on that dyno day...
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you can swap cams with me if you want to try that...also if you want to swap out parts to help locate the problem i dont mind. ur the tall guy in SA right? your car is sick. im the guy with the white 318 we met on that dyno day...
Ya I remember... thanks again for letting me borrow ur ecu for the first dyno run. I ended up getting a chip for it immediately after that. The car runs much better than it did on that dyno day (lol after warm up anyway).
Thanks for the offer, but I have the stock cams here. I just don't think the cams are the cause of my problem since so many ppl with stock cams are having the same issue. Can't think of any other parts to try and swap...
Also thanks for the compliment... car looks better now though than it did at the dyno. Much has changed :)
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there is another dyno day commin up in November i believe. im hopeing to have a little more then last time.
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Ive got the same or at least a similar problem with my 318i, which has 114k.
If I start it cold, it runs perfect. If I get it up to temperature, shut it off and then restart before it cools down fully, it stalls.
it will do this time after time, unless I rev it up unloaded to 3000 RPM or so. I cant get the engine to load without stalling, because it goes off so fast after startup... I need to do that revving right away.
new fuel pump, ICV, injectors, O2 sensor, battery, plugs, wires, oil, etc., etc. thi car is meticulously maintained to ensure that anything that could go wrong is replaced before its time. This is just a nuissance thing, but perhaps the AFM amp or a few other things may help...
Thanks,
JMH
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^Probably not the AFM amp, I replaced mine and still have this issue. Many guys run without the amp and don't have this issue. I am guessing this is something external to the engine. Not sure what though.
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have you changed the fuel filter???? or run some fuel cleaner system next time you fill up.. it might be the fuel pump too.. but i would start small befor buting a bunch of parts
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Fuel pump is good (system was pressure tested)... fuel filter less than 6 months old. Replaced it when I did the rear fuel lines. Ran seafoam through the oil, manifold, and gas to clean it out. After running the car 50 miles, drained the old oil and put in new. Car runs better but still has the same warm start issue.
lol keep the suggestions coming.
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Fuel pump is good (system was pressure tested)... fuel filter less than 6 months old. Replaced it when I did the rear fuel lines. Ran seafoam through the oil, manifold, and gas to clean it out. After running the car 50 miles, drained the old oil and put in new. Car runs better but still has the same warm start issue.
lol keep the suggestions coming.
I noticed yesterday that when i turn my head lights i get idle searching but with the lights off it does not, perhaps its the alternator?
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^I was thinking that as well... or battery maybe. Since I have a pretty large stereo (did the problem before stereo too) I installed a digital voltmeter by the battery. It normally reads about 11.8 volts with the car off... and if I turn it on without the stereo it will get up to 13.5 ish. With stereo on it will stay around 13.1ish.
I think I am going to get an optima red top just for sh*ts and giggles since I don't know when this battery was replaced anyway. Then I'll monitor the voltages with the new batt. Might have autozone test the alternator too...
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On a side note... I ran across this that a buddy sent to me who was helping diagnose the problem... do we have something like this?
".... It sounds like it might be the ignition resistor or some related part of that circuit. It works like this, there are two circuits to power the coil, one supplies 12v during startup, and the other supplies maybe 6 or 8 volts through the resistor the rest of the time. If it only runs while the starter is running this can be your problem. Its easy to check, put a voltmeter at the coil and start it up. If you lose voltage after releasing the key, its probably that resistor which is usually hidden in the wiring harness somewhere near the coil, can't say for sure on a 318."
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^I was thinking that as well... or battery maybe. Since I have a pretty large stereo (did the problem before stereo too) I installed a digital voltmeter by the battery. It normally reads about 11.8 volts with the car off... and if I turn it on without the stereo it will get up to 13.5 ish. With stereo on it will stay around 13.1ish.
I think I am going to get an optima red top just for sh*ts and giggles since I don't know when this battery was replaced anyway. Then I'll monitor the voltages with the new batt. Might have autozone test the alternator too...
Sounds like a good idea! I have an optima it helped but didnt cure the problem. I am replacing my cam sensor today to see if that has any effect. 50 dollars off pelican comes with a new seal i couldnt resist.
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I noticed yesterday that when i turn my head lights i get idle searching but with the lights off it does not, perhaps its the alternator?
Yeah mine does it too. Also does it when I hit the door locks or turn the steering wheel (before I removed the PS pump) or switch on the AC. I don't think its an alternator problem. Its the engine management being slow to react to a load increase as well as a relatively light weight flywheel. Nothing we can really do about it short of switching to MS+S or something like that.