M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => Engine + Driveline => Topic started by: adam12hicks on June 21, 2008, 09:23:53 AM
-
I'm looking at the engine compartment from the top, and it doesn't look like replacing this gasket would be a simple task. Under load it sounds like I have an exhaust leak coming from that area and I just had a new exhaust system put in from the header back, so that's really all that's left to do. I'm cool with the stock headers, but would like to try and remove it and replace the gasket.
Can someone give me their impressions? I tried searching this forum but I guess the search just doesn't work. It returns the same results pretty much no matter what I type.
Thanks!
-
take a look at the reference section, look in the e30 manual that Febi Guibo is hosting.
it will give you a rough idea as to how much work you're looking at.
its not TOO difficult but those nuts are a bitch to reach and if they're really old you may strip a few.
-
you may need a bolt extractor to remove rusty bolts, but its pretty straightforward to do, just follow fsm instructions-
-
Ok I'll take a look... thanks guys. This car had a good deal of salt spray through the engine from Northeast roads, so I'm not expecting it will be 'fun'
;)
-
Won't be fun if they are jacked up and frozen so get a bolt extractor, PB Blaster fluid, new bolts and new nuts, should go pretty well then. You can do it but it's probably easier to get new nuts and bolts for the reinstall.
-
Count on replacing ALL of the studs and nuts. They will be siezed. But they do come out of the head fairly easy as the head is aluminum and the studs are steel. Use a copper anti-sieze compound on the new studs, and make sure you use oem studs and nuts. The nuts are copper coated or maybe solid copper. It's really not a bad job,
-
This is the most aggravating thing I've ever had to do to my m42 in the short time I've owned it. At 6'8" the area with which to work is not very good. Took me 4 hours to remove the header, inspect for cracks, and reinstall with new gaskets. I have plenty of cuts and bruises but at least the car runs better now. I guess my old gaskets were leaking and causing the o2 sensor to show lean or something because I always had a cold/warm start stumbling... like an ICV problem, or AFM. Fixing this pre o2 leak seems to have fixed the problem. Only time will tell though.