M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => Engine + Driveline => Topic started by: Berlin on May 16, 2006, 03:13:15 AM
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aside from the 4.10 lsd itself (which i already bought) what else do i need to get it to work on my wee 318is... i heard rumors of halfshafts etc, anyone got the facts? thx in advance
-Alex
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Should bolt right up with no modifications. If not, I've got issues when I reconnect my half-shafts!
Only downside is that the medium case diff weighs 11 lbs more than the small case.
But, at least the weight is in the back and low enough it shouldn't have a huge impact.
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cool, its just that i heard some ppl saying outrageous things like suspensions changeovers being required to fit a medium case.
what kinda problems fitting the halfshafts? do i need the m3 halfshafts/hubs? anyone else?
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Well, mine is bolted up, so the rear suspension changeover is hogwash. It has the same mounting points as the small case. Again, I'm almost positive the half-shaft lengths are the same, so you should be able to re-use yours.
I eventually want to upgrade to some "thicker" or more stout 1/2 shafts for later down the road when I drop in an M50 though. ;)
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318is halfshafts=M3 halfshafts=325i halfshafts
They are all the same
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318is halfshafts=M3 halfshafts=325i halfshafts
They are all the same
indeed true, however the driveshafts are not; perhaps the input flanges bolt pattern is different aswell?
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The driveshafts are different lengths to fit different transmissions.
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Ok so i tried to put the new diff in last night. Didnt go quite so smoothly! for some reason it just cant fit into the subframe... after looking closer at them, it appears as though the vertical rib on the input side on the new diff runs higher up than on the old diff, as you can see here:
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c135/moshimasu/IMG_5334.jpg)
small case on the left, medium case on the right.
so it doesnt quite fit in the bracket here:
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c135/moshimasu/IMG_5313.jpg)
has anyone ever experienced this before?
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just drill upper holes closer about 1cm to others holes and it should fit. And check does the bolts screw freely in to differential. After that fit E36 gearbox ;)
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just drill upper holes closer about 1cm to others holes and it should fit. And check does the bolts screw freely in to differential. After that fit E36 gearbox ;)
NO! adjust the collar on the prop to get the prop out of the way, i'd imagine that's what's causing your bolt-up problems. try bolting the diff up without the prop at all first, then try with the prop. the prop will need to be shortened at the collar, please don't drill a perfectly good subframe and throw your thrust angle etc out!
A medium case diff will fit with no drilling subframes required. i have one in mine. nice diff btw, looks lurrvely.
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(http://www.orbitfiles.com/download/id119280453)in my situation the distance was different on both differentials mounting holes, and of corse you must check prop shaft travel..
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oh sorry, didn't realise that, mine wasn't like that! how strange. what is the diff on the right from? i will check part nos on the ETK too see if it has a different subframe, that will confirm everything.
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I'm not shure what mine is from M3, it could be from E28 M5 or 535, because rear cover was replaced when I bought it..
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I put a medium case diff in my car about 6 months ago, huge pain to get it situated properly in there. Needed a prybar and 2 people to get the last 2 holes to line up properly.
After install I also had some issues with the driveshaft hitting the floorpan about 6 inches forward from the diff. Took us forever to figure out what the banging noise was, only when doing burnouts. I would sound like tire hop going crazy and something in the suspension being loose. We finally saw the marks on the driveshaft and put 1/8" spacers between the diff and the subframe, fixed it compleately.
You should get it to work, Im pulling my 3.73lsd medium case w/ z3 roadster diff cover and putting in a awesome condition 121k mile 4.10 lsd thats never been beat on.
Anyone looking for a 3.73 LSD w/ z3 roadster diff cover, redline fluid used :)
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There should be a code/part number on the right side of it stamped into the casing (in case your diff tag is missing). This should tell you what it is, or you should be able to de-code it and tell what it's from.
The M3 diff should work just fine in our cars.
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OK, I will check that, if there will be any signs ;)
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If it's a 4.10 Ltd Slip, you should also see the elusive "S" markings on the top and bottom of the diff. See picture of my medium case 4.10 below:
(http://www.s-cars.org/postnuke/modules/gallery/albums/danh/IMG_4524.jpg)
"S" marks the spot!
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NO! adjust the collar on the prop to get the prop out of the way, i'd imagine that's what's causing your bolt-up problems. try bolting the diff up without the prop at all first, then try with the prop. the prop will need to be shortened at the collar, please don't drill a perfectly good subframe and throw your thrust angle etc out!
A medium case diff will fit with no drilling subframes required. i have one in mine. nice diff btw, looks lurrvely.
i have to shorten the propshaft!? i dont see why, on both the diffs the input flange sticks out the same distance from the bolt pattern... it really looks like the only thing that doesnt line up is the output flanges which isnt a big deal... i put it on without removing the shaft because i didnt want to remove the exhaust to get at the collar, its a pita to remove my exhaust. i just slid the diff onto the knurled bolts on the propshaft and then lined up the bushing.
If it's a 4.10 Ltd Slip, you should also see the elusive "S" markings on the top and bottom of the diff. See picture of my medium case 4.10 below:
Yes sir its exactley one of those. i painted over the top 'S'.
just drill upper holes closer about 1cm to others holes and it should fit. And check does the bolts screw freely in to differential. After that fit E36 gearbox
so drill which holes? on the subframe or on the diff? the thing is its not misaligning by THAT much (whole cm) cause when its up there with my finger i can feel the hole and its almost right on for all four but for some reason the diff wont snugly sit up against that support from the underside.
We finally saw the marks on the driveshaft and put 1/8" spacers between the diff and the subframe, fixed it compleately.
That right now sounds like exactley whats missing... something to fill the space between the diff and the subframe at the bolt holes because like i said above, it just wont snug up to it. when you forced it in the first time you must have somewhat deformed the subframe to the shape of the diff but at the same time bent it upwards causeing the propshaft to hit the chasis?
thanks for all the advice guys! i'm goin to go give it another try now with my buddy hopefully we figure it out (: and ill post more pictures when i get to work
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upper holes on subframe. And clean holes in differential, because it was realy hard to screw in bolts, you know why ;)
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iThat right now sounds like exactley whats missing... something to fill the space between the diff and the subframe at the bolt holes because like i said above, it just wont snug up to it. when you forced it in the first time you must have somewhat deformed the subframe to the shape of the diff but at the same time bent it upwards causeing the propshaft to hit the chasis?
thanks for all the advice guys! i'm goin to go give it another try now with my buddy hopefully we figure it out (: and ill post more pictures when i get to work
I think you're onto something here. I'd got with some nice thick washers to fill in the gap if that's all it takes. I have heard many people say to make sure you put in the rear bolts first (ones more towards the front of the car) or it's a LOT more difficult to get it to line up. Just a suggestion.
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I think you're onto something here. I'd got with some nice thick washers to fill in the gap if that's all it takes. I have heard many people say to make sure you put in the rear bolts first (ones more towards the front of the car) or it's a LOT more difficult to get it to line up. Just a suggestion.
ya man, my bentley says do the back bolts first too. and i did.. no help, i think i might run the washers... the threads are messed, and i just went on a hunt around town for a M12x1.5 tap and nobody has it gah. I'll try to find one in the school shop tomorrow.
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ya man, my bentley says do the back bolts first too. and i did.. no help, i think i might run the washers... the threads are messed, and i just went on a hunt around town for a M12x1.5 tap and nobody has it gah. I'll try to find one in the school shop tomorrow.
Come to think of it, I had to re-tap my threads as well and I bought all new mounting bolts. Maybe that helped. Good luck, get some washers in case it won't snug up. Should be fine as long as you aren't spacing it out too much.
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I already installed a m3 4.10, fit with no modifications or parts needed. I did have problems lining up the bolt holes, but they match up after a fight.
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will i have such problems installing a LSD unit from a 325is? this is a medium case as well, i assume? i just dont want to get in there and never get the thing fit...
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Just clean out and re-tap the threads. Fits without any modification. New bolts don't hurt either.
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GOT'ER IN!
ya no worries, after a battle everything lined up, with the aid of a slightly larger M12 imperial equiv drill bit to bore out the carrier bolt holes. but it was definitley a pita... also had to re-tap the threads in the diff.... thanks everyone for the tips
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k so the driveshaft is rubbing the floor, just barely but it makes a very loud sound at pretty much any speed. soo i tried to get some 1/8" washers in like was suggested previously... now i cant get the bolt holes to line up again :( :( this is fregin irritating
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I did a medium case swap and there is a big nut with splines about half way up the drive shaft, I had to loosen the nut and make my drive shaft about 1/2 shorter for the holes to line up correctly. I’m guessing that’s your problem.
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its really not that off, 1/2" is a huge difference, my bolt holes dont line up by about a 16'th at most, only the front ones, i think i may have accidentaly bent the carrier upwards a little while jacking the car up at the diff which causes the dshaft to scrape the underside...ill try to match up the bolt holes with a big c-clamp and then bend the carrier back down like an 1/8 to fix the scraping. keep in mind this is not very easy for a skinny kid to do in the parking lot with limited tools and no help around.