M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => Engine + Driveline => Topic started by: elementskater_xx on May 16, 2008, 10:19:38 AM
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I live in new london ct. I need some help. I am willing to pay. I need my timming set. Anyone close?
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Well unfortunately I am on the west coast. I am sure someone local should be able to help you.
Have you tried reading the following tutorial?
http://www.esatclear.ie/~bpurcell/318istimingchain.html
Its very informative. I am sure we can help walk you through it. I am sure your confidence is down a bit after the last try. I think you can do it though.
But you do need to purchase a cam lock and TDC lock tool so you can do this properly.
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If you buy the tools, I'll rent them from you right after you're done with them ;)
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Where i work i have a machine shop. I printed the design for the cam locking tool. But they are slow as hell. I tried to request one from the loan a tool section. Is my engine the same as a 1990 or 1991? I noticed alot of people on here own a 90 or 91. I have tried to purchase parts but they all end up be an e30. As my engine is still a m42 it has a e36 chasis. You probably know all this but i just wanted to explain my difficulty witht his situation. Plus i pulled the lower timing case to fix the original problem of broken crank pully and chain. Do i have to repull it to set the timming?
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Lol i might be able to make some for ya. It would alot less exspensive than buying the actual tool. But my machine shop guys here are slow. If i get my hands on one i will def loan it out. Seeing as how this procedure is very frustrating and this tool will help.
If you buy the tools, I'll rent them from you right after you're done with them ;)
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The cam locking tool works on all M42/M44/M/S5x engines regardless of chassis.
I think we bought the 2 tools off ebay for $40 shipped.
And yes you need to remove the lower cover to ensure you have the timing set correctly. I mean you rebuilt this once, and you didn't get it right, now you want to take more short cuts on the second time around. Did you not learn your lesson the first time?
"If a job is worth doing, its worth doing right the first time"
Your on your second time around, lets try to get it right this time.
Get the proper tools, follow instructions, take your time, and enjoy the reward of a good running engine. Either that or just take it to a shop.
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Also is my crank a magnetic pickup? I know there is someway that the crankshaft sensor works. Is it magnetic or not? I noticed on the outside of my crank case there is a flat spot in the notches. Seeing as how my flywheel has 2 locations in it. It will help to know this. I don't want to be 180 off.
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Is my engine the same as a 1990 or 1991? I noticed alot of people on here own a 90 or 91. I have tried to purchase parts but they all end up be an e30. As my engine is still a m42 it has a e36 chasis. You probably know all this but i just wanted to explain my difficulty witht his situation.
What year is your E36 318?
The M42 was used in the E36 318's from 92-95. The M44 was introduced in the E36 318 in the beginning of 1996.
If purchasing parts, you should go to http://www.realoem.com first and look up your vehicle on there, as most if not all of the parts listed contain the genuine BMW part # (and are correct 99% of the time). I don't know if you have used that site yet or not, but this may reduce incorrect parts issues if looking up your vehicle specifically.
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The cam locking tool works on all M42/M44/M/S5x engines regardless of chassis.
I think we bought the 2 tools off ebay for $40 shipped.
And yes you need to remove the lower cover to ensure you have the timing set correctly. I mean you rebuilt this once, and you didn't get it right, now you want to take more short cuts on the second time around. Did you not learn your lesson the first time?
"If a job is worth doing, its worth doing right the first time"
Your on your second time around, lets try to get it right this time.
Get the proper tools, follow instructions, take your time, and enjoy the reward of a good running engine. Either that or just take it to a shop.
Ok i will follow the link you gave me to the exact. I will restart this on maybe wensday night. I will keep you updated and i bought a camera to take pics of my steps.
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here ya go - a new and very informative link about both E30 and E36 M42's that was just "found" today by another M42 Member:
http://www.motortraders.net/groups/group.asp?group=1&menu=72
as you will see once hitting that link, to the left will be more E36/M42 and E36/M44 specific info, just point & click!
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Also is my crank a magnetic pickup? I know there is someway that the crankshaft sensor works. Is it magnetic or not? I noticed on the outside of my crank case there is a flat spot in the notches. Seeing as how my flywheel has 2 locations in it. It will help to know this. I don't want to be 180 off.
Did you not set the engine at TDC before you removed the head? And even then if you removed the head, how could you not know where TDC is?
The front piston is at the top of the cylinder, this is TDC, stick the pin in the flywheel, done.
If the head is on still, both #1 cam lobes should be facing up and inwards towards each other, and you will see the casting dots facing up on the back of the cams.
And yes the sensor is of the magnetic type but don't try to find TDC using that as a reference.
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Seriously, find an E36 Bentley manual (the E30 Bentley doesn't cover the M42) and read through the procedure several times until you understand it.
It sounds like you're dangerously close to repeating the previous experience.