M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
FAQ / REFERENCE => Member Profiles => Topic started by: monty23psk on April 01, 2008, 05:53:20 PM
-
Hey guys, I recently joined and started to get more involved in all the e30 forums. Just finally got a pic uploaded, not the best but more things to come.
Let me list so far what it has, and eventually will add pics to back it up.
Fresh top end rebuild with all gaskets and hoses replaced Jan '07.
Add H&R Sports and Bilstein Sports over winter break.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC03537.jpg)
-
Welcome to the forums. And your from Miami, thats home.
-
welcome here fellow brilliantrot-er!
-
it looks like you have a better car to start off with than mine.
if i see you around town, ill holler.
-
Here is another upgrade I did recently. I have the all stainless steel shift know from UUC, RK5, which by the way their customer service is excellent as I received 2 damaged knobs in the mail before this one, and they retuned it every time no questions ask and paid for shipping both ways. I then added a micro suede boot with silver stiching to match. With te flash the boot looks lighter but its actually as black as the carpet mats. I have the matching ebrake but waiting for the boot to get rid of the rubber bellow. Will post pics once installed.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC03548.jpg)
-
Buff that thing and just watch it bling!!!
-
will try but its so faded actually looks pink sometimes.
-
when i first saw it I thought it was pink
-
yes is the barbie edition....lol its actually a decent red, its just more faded on the hood, trunk and roof. After I finish the interior, I will start to work on the outside and then paint it. My goal is by the end of this year.
-
just waxed the car today with zaino bros kit, started with clay, then z5, z2, z6.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC03584.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC03586.jpg)
-
I just installed Dynomat on the rear deck shelf. Have a 10" free air under the deck in the trunk. I guess over time, things started to vibrate just a little. The car sounds great inside and barely noticeable outside with my current setup, so I don't need to add this to the whole trunk. Just added this little amount of insulation to the shelf. So now that I am doing the interior, I will get some fabric to redo my shelf.
here are some pics:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC03629.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC03631.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC03632.jpg)
-
after many recommendations, I received my next project in the mail. Hope to start on it within the next week. Mine are currently shot. Then only need motor mounts and all bushings have been replaced in the last 2 years.
Powerflex Trailing Arm Bushings. And I must say, the best packaging for a product I have seen in a long time.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC03639.jpg)
-
Well after the hard time trying to manually press in the new bushings, I had a shop press them in. What a difference. Only drove it home from the warehouse when I installed them and it was raining so, not sure if they are noisy, but believe they were quiet. But what a difference. Rear feels tighter as I already upgraded the subrame bushing. After I finish the front brake rebuild, I will order the powerflex subframe bushing so it can be event tighter.
Here is a pic of them installed....
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC03664.jpg)
-
props on replacing every bit of rubber underneath the car... way to go man!
-
yeah, what a difference with all new rubber (or urethane). Going to install e30 M3 master brake cylinder and then rebuild front calipers and add the stainless brake lines. Did this to the rears about 4 months ago. Then brakes will be back in the good category. Soon after will be to replace cv joint boots as one tore and 3 other are cracking. We replace hubs and bearings will in there.
-
Boy am I glad you waxed it!!!
Looking really good man, keep up the good work :)
-
thanks, and the one your are building is going to scream. Hope to be there in the next 2 years as I need to start on my e28 m5. Been 3 yrs without me touching it.
-
The progress looks great! I've used Zaino products before and have also experienced excellent results w/ their products - very simple and easy to use plus no residue is left on the body panels, even when it's humid outside... :)
Just curious - how much was the urethane kit for replacing the chassis/suspension bushings? Did the kit come with every piece needed to upgrade all of the factory rubber to urethane, or do you still need to purchase more pieces?
-
thanks, and the one your are building is going to scream. Hope to be there in the next 2 years as I need to start on my e28 m5. Been 3 yrs without me touching it.
thank you sir!
-
Well the kit was just for the trailing arm. They do have other pieces but its sold separate. http://www.powerflexusa.com if you want to check it out. Order from Carr industries as they has a tax rebate discount now. Not sure for how long. Not much but it was nice.
With urethane, everything should just slide in by hand. In my case it didn't so I had to pay a shop. Took it to a BMW shop as rather they do it than a local mechanic with a press. So paid one hour labor, $87 instead of $40. But it came out nice. If you do the rear end all together, it would be easier.
Will be doing the subframe before the end of the summer. I replaced with oem bushings last year and still have small clunk. I have the bushing removal tool that I bought, so its easy to remove and in case I need it for install. I will then start to rent the tool.
But yesterday I took a green light left turn and the car was solid. I still need to upgrade sway bars, but have new links, shocks and springs. Also now TA bushings. Also I can't hear a difference in the urethane.
-
Nice! Another upgrade I still need to do :)
I heard about the urethane bushes that they tend to settle a bit after a while, becomming hollow?
-
Haven't heard that. I have heard that if the wrong grease it uses, the urethane will tend to decompose.
-
Well while out of town, got my next part in. e30 m3 brake master cylinder. I had already ordered the 12mm to 10mm pipe about 6 months ago. I will also rebuild the front calipers, with new seals. Will also paint them black. I already rebuilt, and painted the rears about 8 months ago. Just was waiting for the brake cylinder to do the front. Will also finish the install of UUC stainless steel lines.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC03680.jpg)
-
Hey everyone, have been laying low because of to much work but here is an update. Fixed some surface rust in my trunk. Still need to do 2 small patches by the top of the rear light under the trunk seal. Also need to have the shop that balance my tires fix one of my rims, my center cap does not lock. Going back tomorrow to see what they can do, if not looking for another 14" basketweave. My spare needs to replace a bent rim. Here is the link of the work in the trunk from the electrical sub-forum:
http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5965 (http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5965)
-
Finally installed my new 14" Spal aux fan as my used replacement seized. I kept the same wiring which led me to use the stock resistor so I still have the 2-speed options. My radiator temp switch is also new. It push so much air that my temp needle does not reach noon on the gauge. After a week, will remove the fan clutch to see if this is enough to cool engine. People have said it is, but just will test it out. Here are pics of the old and new and the new installed. In the pic of the new one mounted, zip ties still needed to be cut. A bracket can be fabricated to use the stock mounting points but felt it was easier and good enough with 4 zip ties. A 16" can fit, but will be larger than the condenser, so a bracket will be needed.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC03437.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC03442.jpg)
-
Great work on the 318! Do you have any pics of the m5?
-
Yeah, its been sitting 3 years as I have been working on it. Paint is shot now, but after a wax like 5 years ago, this is how it looked:
(http://www.bmwmregistry.com/userimages/2001/12/18/fa7e5c67537c86440af308ecfb4c5be2.jpg)
(http://www.bmwmregistry.com/userimages/2001/12/18/8766f66f5698506f48cd81e98d3be304.jpg)
(http://www.bmwmregistry.com/userimages/2001/12/18/bdd43073f08ac8c016bd7658bf5f6215.jpg)
(http://www.bmwmregistry.com/userimages/2001/12/18/6ebc7338941aefa9458bd6bcce6563d2.jpg)
-
Another update: Installed a newer set of shifter and e-brake boots. Re-doing my whole interior with Kevin's (The Aritsan on other forums) kit. Also went for the boots. Here they are installed. I need to detail the car and the pics are without flash so that it doesn't take away from the black. Ned more sunlight for the my pics.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC03799.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC03800.jpg)
-
Wayyy sweet M5 my friend. I've always loved those cars. How does it drive compared to our e30? I'm sure it packs a bit more punch.
Also I'm digging the new boots. My brother has an e46 M3 and he really wants to install that fabric in his interior. The E46 CSL M3's (only in Europe) interior has that suede-ish material on the steering wheel too. Better grip supposedly
-
Thanks, way more punch. And with the suspension, very tight, just heavier, but not by that much.
Still do not know what I will do with steering wheel, as I will eventually get rid of the airbag wheel for something smaller but tasteful. Will consider the fabric to match.
-
Good job brother, I hope you're having as much fun as me.:cool:
-
Yeah, just working on cloth while you are working on metal.
-
Update to electric fan:
Yesterday was my first real day of driving in rush hour traffic without AC. The temp out side was not hot either. I guess a small cold front came, so I decided to enjoy the cool weather with windows done. It was in the mid 80s. I was in the traffic for over 15 minutes. With AC on, fan is on at low speed and temp never goes over noon on gauge. Remember that my fan is installed in place of the aux fan, so I only have the fan shroud on the engine side. When the car is stopped the needle creeps up very slowly. Eventually it gets almost to the end of the little temp logo on the guage, never really passes it. This is about the halfway point between half and 3/4. I don't know if the fan turns on and stablizes it. When I got home, I left the car running, as the needle went back to before noon. I then got out, the needle by this time was about noon, and noticed the fan was on at low. So looks like it works correctly. It was on at low. So the fan thru the condensor and radiator produces enought airflow to cool engine. I am very happy. Also I know the fan can kick in on high if needed. If I see the temp going high like this more often, I will just get a lower temp switch. I am just happy that everything is working, even the new temp switch I bought.
Regarding noticing any difference, none really. I do notice the engine to be a lot more quiet without the fan clutch. Also I know its less stress on engine so doing some test on fuel ecomomy. Will post that after the survey.
I do recommend the upgrade as just the AC feels colder even in really hot weather. The fan is more efficient and more quiet. Looks nice too. About removing the fan clutch, I guess it depends on a few things. I rebuilt the engine less than 2 years ago and also just did a coolant flush. Make sure you have no cooling issues before doing this. Also the type of driving can dictate this upgrade. I do most highway driving during rush hour and it is not bad at all.
-
Another update. Started to work on my new interior. I first started the rear deck shelf. It took longer as with life's interruptions and business travel I am finishing it up. Just need to glue the tips and cut the excess. Then need to install speakers and mount it back in car. Did the shelf with black micro fiber (UV treated). Here is a a before and after teaser....
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC03831.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC03894.jpg)
-
Here is the deck all done...now on to the rear seat belts....
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC03896.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC03897.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC03898.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC03899.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC03900.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC03901.jpg)
-
Well tonight I ended up doing the new rear headrests. My new rear seats will be different then what is currently, and they came with headrests, can't wait. Will start on the lower half this weekend. Originally in tan leather, and it good condition, just needs a cleaning. If I get the skins off without rips, so far headrests ok, I will sell the kit for anyone who needs it. So far not hard job to do it yourself. Kevin's kit and instructions are worth it.
Here is before and after (just need to vacuum little debris from new cloth)...
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC03908.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC03912.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC03919.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC03920.jpg)
-
nice build.
have any pics and directions on how you wired the fan?
-
double post
-
I will need to look at pics I have and if not I can walk you thru it. I also used the stock resistor for the 2 speed. Do you want that also?
-
Update on interior: Finished the rear bottom seat. Surprise, its from the e30 m3. Started on to top part and should go much faster. Here is the results (using mtech cloth with black micro fiber):
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC04015.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC04016.jpg)
-
Finished the top part and very cool part....they originally came with the rear headrest which is going to be an added plus. Next it to pull the rear side panels and front seats to shampoo the carpets. Install everything the rear and then start on the front seats.
Here is the final pic....
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC04056.jpg)
-
Haven't done much to car lately, just oil change and gas. Starting to get back into the swing of things while I wait for some parts to continue the interior rebuild.
Currently my front bushings seem to be on their way out and they are squeaking and small thumping while driving at low speeds. So decided to start with my AKG upgrades, here is the first one, front CAB M3 offset (ready for install). Waiting on some ATE Plastilube to install them.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC04195.jpg)
-
Have been busy with other stuff and luckily that car is just a daily driver with no issues. Just gas and go. I am starting to give more time to it. After changing my hood release cable becasue it snapped, the cable straps which hold the cable and other electrical cables snapped due to age and being brittle. After 3 attempts to get the right straps, I did. I installed them today. Next to is to replace a hose that is leaking power steering fluid, very annoying.
Here are 2 of the old ones and the 3 new ones. The old ones are short due to breakage.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/cable%20strap/DSC04243.jpg)
Picturs before:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/cable%20strap/DSC04240.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/cable%20strap/DSC04241.jpg)
Pictures after:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/cable%20strap/DSC04244.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/cable%20strap/DSC04245.jpg)
-
Got some more work in over the holiday weekend. Not exciting by more of regular maintenance in my opinion. First, my washer fluid system is not working. I am starting to go over all the faulty equipment. I just ordered new clear hose and while I wait, I installed the new modern OEM fluid reservoir cap. I know I need new hose and a screen for the reservoir so far.
Other thing I did today was replace my leaking power steering fluid hose from reservoir to steering gear. My car had the older style, hose to pipe and using clamps. The current BMW part is a single piece with the hose crimped to the pipe. My hose was all cut up around the bottom clamp.
Here are some pictures. The last 2 are to compare the gunk the fluid leaves behind around the rack.
Tank with old cap. Cap has crack across it on the inside, but visible from the outside. New cap installed.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/washer/DSC04253.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/washer/DSC04255.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/washer/DSC04274.jpg)
Here is the original hose just loosen and starting to drain.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/power%20steering/DSC04272.jpg)
here she is bleeding (draining)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/power%20steering/DSC04265.jpg)
Comparing old with new, I used existing bolt but new washers
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/power%20steering/DSC04270.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/power%20steering/DSC04266.jpg)
Cleaned the underside and here is new hose installed
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/power%20steering/DSC04272.jpg)
Here is the difference in gunk build up, pic taken from front of car looking towards rear.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/power%20steering/DSC04259.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/power%20steering/DSC04273.jpg)
-
Another update. I replaced the gasket for the cap on the PS reservoir and the main belt. Also also replaced the adjusting bracket for the PS pump. Here are some of the pics. Also included my recent acquisitions, OEM BMW Fender cover. Has BMW roundel in the lower left corner and magnets to hold it on. It has 3 velcro straps, not sure what for.
Old gasket removed, then new one installed.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/power%20steering/DSC04285.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/power%20steering/DSC04286.jpg)
fender cover
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/power%20steering/DSC04287.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/power%20steering/DSC04288.jpg)
Old bracket installed, comparing old and new bracket
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/power%20steering/DSC04289.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/power%20steering/DSC04290.jpg)
-
Today I replaced my engine mounts on my m42. I decided to go with the e28 535 mounts since I didnt want to pay ~200 for the stock ones since I will be doing an engine swap hopefully in a 1.5 years. People say that there is a little more vibration with them, which I agree, but with my old ones being in bad condition, mostly passenger side, the upgrade is better. Also being my car is lowered it is already a little stiff, so it doenst bother me. Also there engine feels more together, with better throttle response and shifting. Adding better tranny mounts should make it better. Here are some pics. One thing for those doing it, you will need spacers or thick washers on the top of the mount as the studs are longer and the threads stop before it gets to the mount. Other thing is to cut off the tab and orient the mount 180 degrees. I had a hard time with the passenger side and the nut would not come off. All the heat and the old age seized the nut out. I had to remove the block extension to get the bushing out. Then had to dremel the nut out.
Here are the pics:
Driver stock mount:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine%20mount/DSC04301.jpg)
Passenger side mount:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine%20mount/DSC04302.jpg)
Removing ground cable:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine%20mount/DSC04303.jpg)
Old passenger side after a easy twist:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine%20mount/DSC04304.jpg)
Comapring new and old:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine%20mount/DSC04305.jpg)
Underneath mounts, locking still needed to be remove with dremel:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine%20mount/DSC04306.jpg)
New ones installed:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine%20mount/DSC04307.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine%20mount/DSC04308.jpg)
Passenger side with spacer:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine%20mount/DSC04310.jpg)
-
What's the part number for the fender cover? How much was it? Sweet! :D
-
What's the part number for the fender cover? How much was it? Sweet! :D
I got it from Tisher (dealer) for $80. Part number is 81 22 9 400 299.
-
Today after work I continued to work on my car. The AKG m3 offset bushings were going in. I had bought a tool at a great discount price which help me remove the stock bushings. These stock bushings are about 3 years old as they were shot when I got the car from my sister. Also replace the control arms at that time.
What a difference these bushings make. Everything is tighter and the turning feels much better. Worth every penny when the stock ones are needed to be replaced. With my new engine mounts, the front of the car is so different.
I will be renting the tool out in the tool section of the e30 forums. If interested, let me know. Since these were the urethane ones, I was able to install them on the arm with just my strenghth and turning it a little.
Here are some pics:
Passenger side - rubber bushing:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/DSC04317.jpg)
Removing pass side with tool:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/DSC04318.jpg)
Like butter:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/DSC04319.jpg)
Back on with ATE plastilube to prevent squeaking - thanks Peerless
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/DSC04322.jpg)
Driver side:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/DSC04323.jpg)
Removing driver side:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/DSC04324.jpg)
New one back one and lubed up:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/DSC04325.jpg)
-
Since I am going to start to work on my e28 m5, the euro plate bracket is falling apart. I bought a new one for the e30 and will use the plate in the meantime. The plate it self has a few blemishes, so perfect fit for e30. Only thing I noticed after installing is the new bracket has a white borders which I am not in favor of it. Will get a all black one and use this in the meantime. Here are the pics:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/euro%20plate/DSC04337.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/euro%20plate/DSC04340.jpg)
-
Interesting thought, i completely agree with your perspective
-
Well the new one came in. Much better. Got it from europeanplates.com. They also have cool plates and after I paint my car, will get a new one from them.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/DSC04348.jpg)
-
Last Monday, received my new acquisition, Mtech 1 rear spoiler. Only took 3 days to receive. Picked up Friday afternoon at my doorstep Monday morning from Europe, this past week. Paid real cheap compared to prices here in the US, $120 including shipping. Of course couldnt care on color since I will paint it eventually. So here is it installed. No rust on it. I want to sell the is spoiler to help to pay for this one. Rubber is gray but a good refresh should blacken it right up. Enough with details, here are pics....
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/mtech%20rear%20spoiler/DSC04396.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/mtech%20rear%20spoiler/DSC04398.jpg)
It bolts right up. I already ordered the factory adhesive strips and nuts so that after the paint job, everything is nice an new. Now figuring out what to do with rear apron. Not sure what options are there, besides mtech1 and 2. Might go with mtech1.
-
Looks good.
any performance mods in the future?
-
Thanks. Well after getting all the cosmetics and finishing the suspension upgrades, will start on engine. Might only do Mark D chip as I want to swap S52 in there. So dont want to spend more money on the engine when I need to save for swap.
-
Nice E30 U have Monty/Alex I was wondering where my monies was going. GL With your side Buss'
-
Thanks. Would have to sell about 1 million filters just to buy the s52 engine. I barely make a profit, just do it to help you guys and keep the account open so when my father and I need parts, we pay wholesale cost and save a couple bucks here and there. Need to open dealer account to do the samething. Just not enough time.
Plus I believe you need to sell yourself, thats why my car is an example of what I do, when it comes to the BMW community.
-
I just received my little shipment from Germany. OEM parts to reinstall mtech 1 spoiler. Included are new bolts, foam washers and plastic nuts. Also all the advesive tape from BMW. I will only install these items after I paint my care. I am working now on getting all the exterior items I need to paint it only once.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/mtech%20rear%20spoiler/DSC04439.jpg)
-
Got my new rear strut bar. Here is it by itself. Will install it it and when I paint my car, will paint it body color.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC04440.jpg)
-
Today changed out a few filters and regular items. Also installed the rear strut bar from White325is. The bar makes it feel like the rear is all together and does not mess with 10" sub. Also adds some protection now for the rear amp. The magnet of the speaker as foam tape to cushion anything that hits it. I also sliced the carpet covers to allow the install of the bar and makes it easy to remove carpet side panels.
In the with the new:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/DSC04441.jpg)
Trunks without bar:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC04442.jpg)
Closeup of one side mounted:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC04448.jpg)
Trunk with bar installed:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC04450.jpg)
Next is to get heat shrink tube to redo the factory radiator aux temp switch wiring.
-
Looks good. Keep it up.
-
Finally got to fix a little electric wire issue. The radiator temp switch wire plug had the 3 connector plastic or rubber insulation completly cracked and gone for the most part. So not to worry about connections when summer comes, I got the replacement part from BMW and spliced them in. Here is a before and after. The wire only comes in the green so I had to leave a little of old wire exposed below to make it easier to find the color code for each wire.
Before: note the wire connector going into the housing, almost gone.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC04457.jpg)
After:(sorry for blurry picture)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC04459.jpg)
-
Just the other day I recieve one of those special made OBC temp sensor for the e30 designed by George Graves. He is on the e30 boards and sells them cheap with insturctions and all. Great craftmanship on the part. Since having my car, always had the -22F. Decided with the cold weather in Miami, I should see how cold it is outside.
Installed it today and it was a breeze. Hard part was finding the wires as they were coiled and tucked under the ABS pump. Also looks like they were cut and spliced in the past.
My car is missing the brake duct but I plan on getting it and then drilling a hole and installing the sensor with the grommet that came with it. Here are the pics:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/obc%20temp%20sensor/DSC04468.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/obc%20temp%20sensor/DSC04469.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/obc%20temp%20sensor/DSC04471.jpg)
-
So on to my next addition / mini project. I wanted to start cleaning the moldings on the car, mostly engine plastic and light grills. So first wanted to start with the firewall cover. I purchased an e30 m3 cover and then compared it to the original, and noticed 2 things. First, I will need to cut a slit for the main harness cabling and 2, the orginal cover black paint is very faded. I bought some SEM trim paint and SEM soap for the prep work. I painted the original and it came out great. But it doesn't quit match the texure of the new pieces, so will do the new peice during the week after I cut the slit. On to the pictures.....
Here is the newly redone firewall piece, forgot to take before pic:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/m3%20firewall%20cover/DSC04493.jpg)
Here is the m3 cover piece and part number sticker:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/m3%20firewall%20cover/DSC04494.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/m3%20firewall%20cover/DSC04497.jpg)
Here are the old and new to show the difference and where the cut needs to be made.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/m3%20firewall%20cover/DSC04501.jpg)
I will take more pics of it fully installed in the engine bay later in the week. I need the paint to fully cure, 48 hrs, and do the same with the new piece.
-
Got the new M3 cover plus the newly re-finished firewall cover installed. I had to cut a slit to allow the oxygen sensor, spark plug distribution wiring and a ground cable through the opening. Cleans up the engine bay nicely. Next will refinish the engine bay headlight covers while I wait for my OEM euro grills to arrive. Then will redo the grills plus black out the kidney grill.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/m3%20firewall%20cover/DSC04508.jpg)
-
While I keep renewing the trim in the engine bay, waiting on 48 paint cure time, I received my next project item. BMW OEM Euro grills. I got some from a board member an another e30 forum and these things are like new. It freshen the front as my old grills are very faded and the black was looking white. I will freshen the new ones plus the kidney grill as I need to get more SEM trim paint. Here are some pics of before and after. The difference is not much but more noticeable with the lights on. I rather get these grills than eyebrows and would only get OEM not aftermarket. On to the pics...
Before:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/euro%20grill/DSC04521.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/euro%20grill/DSC04522.jpg)
After:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/euro%20grill/DSC04527.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/euro%20grill/DSC04526.jpg)
Lights:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/euro%20grill/DSC04529.jpg)
-
Got a few things done since the last update. I finished going through all the plastic covers in the engine bay with SEM trim paint. I need to wash the engine bay and take a pic. What a difference. Painted the light covers, spark plug cover, fan shroud, firewall cover as posted above, and even the radiator support. I decide to continue on the exterior and do the kidney grill. The euro grills were nice so this will complement them. I have this on the m5 which also has all shadowline trim. I will post pic of the it installed tomorrow with sunlight. If anyone is wondering, you can remove the chrome rings from the backplance. There is a grommet with a plastic pin at the top and bottom of each side. You just need to push the pin out and magic.
Pics of before, the pin location and after:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/grills/DSC04564.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/grills/DSC04566.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/grills/DSC04591.jpg)
I also resurfaced my rear brake rotors and bought new pads. Porterfield's to match the front. I had installed new ATE oem ones almost 5 years ago. Now the brakes bite when you hit it. No more squel either. Did a good bleed with pressure bleeder and my Pentosin racing brake fluid. Pic of the rear brake pads box. I recommend these as they are for the street.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/DSC04556.jpg)
Last, I got my little project under the way. I found someone on the 2002 forums and he rebuilds BMW oem seatbelts as a hobby. I gave him my hardware and he installed my red webbing. I figured this was possible by taking a seatbelt apart. Came out really good and paid half of the new m3 evo ones. I also got the receptacle webbing replaced which is not even availabe from BMW from the rears. He even stiched on the BMW tags. The stiching is not the best, but like he explained it is done with laser machines at the factory. I found few companies that would restore them but about the price of just getting new ones. Here are pics of the rear ones. This will go nice with my micro suede rear panel and the mtech cloth interior I am about to install. If someone would like the seatbelt guru's contact information, PM me. Enough explaination, here are the pics.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/seat%20belts/DSC04586.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/seat%20belts/DSC04587.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/seat%20belts/DSC04588.jpg)
-
I finally installed my rear shelf. It went in real easy. Also installed the new rear seatbelts. I need to now figure out where the bottom receptacle will go as I will be installed the e30 m3 rear seats. This will require the bolt/bracket to be moved to the center. You can see how bad my rear seats are but looks nice with the red belts.
Before:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/seat%20belts/IMG_6857.jpg)
After:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/seat%20belts/IMG_6866.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/seat%20belts/IMG_6869.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/seat%20belts/IMG_6870.jpg)
-
Got some more work today. Added some new hood insulation as the original was all shot and missing in most areas. I found a company that uses a material that will not absorb water and oil. http://www.bonnetliners.com is where I got them. You can also get them from ZM Blue Devil (Levent) on some of the boards. I got the 1/4" instead of the 1/2" and it fits perfect. The slots for the insulation are about 1/4" in depth, so just right. It was only a about $15 more that the OEM pads and are much better in quality. They are FAA approved and used in firewalls on airplanes...good enough for me. Here are a few pics of them them before and after.
Before:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/hood%20insulation/IMG_6885.jpg)
Prep:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/hood%20insulation/IMG_6886.jpg)
Halfway on removal:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/hood%20insulation/IMG_6887.jpg)
New installed:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/hood%20insulation/IMG_6890.jpg)
I also replaced a worn out OEM sticker in the engine bay.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/hood%20insulation/IMG_6894.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/hood%20insulation/IMG_6896.jpg)
I also ordered the OEM floor mat locks. I decided to try this on my not so good aftermarket floor mats to see how they work. You will see I also need to replace the whole carpet if a good cleaning does not work. I will also go from gray to black, but this is in the future for now. Installation was easy, just need to cut a hole big enough on the mat. I just measured it to try to keep them even.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_6905.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_6902.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_6904.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_6912.jpg)
Only negative is the tab the swivels to lock it is a little too tall for the hole and in the picture it looks like it is sticking up.
Here are some pictures of my brushed aluminum rings and painted needles. I did it as a rough draft as my guage faces need replacing and one of my needles is bent. I have another cluster that I have a few ideas in the works. The picture is of the cluster with the clear plastic off. I have it ready and polished with 3M's clear plastic polish. I used a enamel hobby paint "Bright Red" for the color. Testors required me ordering but the other brand had it in stock. I can't recall the name.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_6908.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_6910.jpg)
Lastly a pic of the exterior that I just liked.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_6907.jpg)
-
That old hood insulation is a bitch to get off, I spent quite a few hours one day with a can of mineral spirits and a pressure washer to get it off and leave no residue. The car looks like it has come a long way. In that bottom picture the pain looks a little oxidized, you can polish it bring some life back to it. Keep up the good work
-
That is actually dust/dirt. I do need to give it another polish, but the clear coat is almost gone throughout the whole car. The car looks more pink than red depending on the light. I am saving for a complete re-spray.
-
Got to install the George Graves interior light dimmer. Product is very cool. Do recommend it to all.
Here are a few pics...
The unit itself:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/DSC04562.jpg)
Relay connected, but in the end my car did not have the factory delay so had to splice it as per his instructions which were very easy:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/DSC04563.jpg)
Here is a pic of the driver side kick panel with the speaker removed. Under the black plastic cover at the bottom, which just pulls out, is the plug for this relay. Also there mounted on a bracket with the two phillip screws is the central locking module:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/DSC04561.jpg)
-
Great write ups Alex.. you definately love that car ...
-
I try. Have big plans but just slow due to $. Hopefully fully done with in the next 2 years.
-
Another quick update which might benefit others. SEM trim paint is the best for exterior trim, but what about interior trim. Duplicolor makes a product but you have to know which black to use. I didn't want to deal with that and researched. I found a product, Colorbond by Bryndana that has color swatch and has many for BMW factory colors. They have a BMW black which I got. It was dead on. Can be used for door panels and even dashboard. Here are a few pics of the rear seatbelt plastic trim.
Before, item installed:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_6950.jpg)
Items side by side before:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_6951.jpg)
Items after:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_6954.jpg)
Item installed:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_6955.jpg)
-
This past weekend I continued on the current projects. First I removed the rear driver side door panel to start the covering swap and decided to add some insulation. Driving the past few days with out it, you get a lot of road noise through there.
Here is the pic of a virgn interior panel from factory. The rectangle in the middle in the only little insulation BMW added.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7083.jpg)
I went to Lowes and got Seal & Peel as it works like Dynamat but much cheaper. I am in the process of upgrading my sound system so this has a double purpose.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7082.jpg)
Here is a picture of the insulation installed. Driving now is much more quiet. Night and day difference. I plan do to this to more areas plus when the door panels are installed, it will be more quiet.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7085.jpg)
I then moved to my next project. Painting the front euro grills and the headlight rings. I will also replace the foam gasket with the BMW one. One side was factory the other was done with aftermarket foam and it was too big.
Here are pics of the progess.
Driver side before which was in good condition so it was more of a touch up to match black kidney which was done few weeks ago.
Old foam:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/grills/IMG_7086.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/grills/IMG_7089.jpg)
New painted grill:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/grills/IMG_7100.jpg)
With new foam:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/grills/IMG_7108.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/grills/IMG_7109.jpg)
Here is a pic of one of the metal, and I believe use to be chrome, headlight ring. I preped it with SEM product and then get it a few coasts. First pic is orginal mounted then painted
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/grills/IMG_7104.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/grills/IMG_7098.jpg)
New screws since the old ones were a little rusted and these were cheap:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/grills/IMG_7107.jpg)
Installed and just pulled the other rings. This is my daily so need to keep it running. Here is a pic of how I used it over the weekend. Lookes toothless. Will recover the buckets when I installed which every new lights I installed to upgraded from these sealed beams.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/grills/IMG_7105.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/grills/IMG_7110.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/grills/IMG_7103.jpg)
Now I need to finish the other side but ran out of SEM trim paint. Picking up a can tomorrow.
-
Another interior update. I stripped my rear driver side door panel to add the new covering. New black vinyl plus the mtech insert all stitched together. Kevin from Creative Options sells the inserts that glue on top but I want something more OEM. For a little more to make me kits for all the panels. I already have the glue and will go tomorrow to get the right foam so I can put it back together. Here is a little teaser of the original panel and the new fabric on top, minor teaser. I will sell the old coverings as they are in good condition.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7117.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7118.jpg)
-
I sent you a PM on E30tech on the covers- me want them badly!
-
Little update from this weekend. Finished putting the front grills and rings all painted back in with the foam. Now on to iS lip and splitter paint and install.
Also kept on the rear panel. Going slowly as this is my first time and want to do it right.
Here is the panel covered in new foam:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7155.jpg)
Here is the insert part glued:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7157.jpg)
Here part of the vinyl with glue, should finish the rest tomorrow after work:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7160.jpg)
Also got my driver door seatbelt installed. Also this is first online pic I believe of how bad my driver seat is:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7159.jpg)
-
i've seen those seats in person .. the pics can't do it justice... i know you will get to them eventually
-
I got one panel done and installed. I also purchase new insulation that does behind the rear seats and hangs on the rear wall. I noticed with my old car that most of the old musty interior BMW smells comes from the old glue and insulation. I decided to get a new one to help the difference in the cabin odor. Big difference between old an new. I started on the passenger side panel today.
Here are the pics:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7230.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7231.jpg)
-
Not a major update, did the insulation on the rear passenger side. Started to work on panel.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7233.jpg)
-
Hey guys, another update. Have slowed down because I have worked every weekend for the last 2 months. This will be my last work weekend coming up and then I get them back.
I redid the passenger side rear door panel. I just need attach both parts and hope to finish that tonight. A little before and after:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7248.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7266.jpg)
I also painted the rear trunk panel as I will be installing my 2 amps. It original held my small amp for 10" sub and the two rear crossovers. I am now getting a 4-channel amp so not sure if it will hold the weight. I will give it a try first before bringing in something more sturdy and heavy.
Before:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7250.jpg)
After:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7251.jpg)
I also started on the re-dye of my gray carpet. I use the Colorbond carpet stuff to change to black. I followed the instructions and gave it 3 light coats. It kept the fibers as soft as the orginal. Now the original was nice a faded and also not the softest. It didnt make it harder which is what I am happy about. I guess the trick is very light coats and to nap with a brush in between coats. Here is a before and after. I also gave it a good cleaning with a professional detergent used for steam cleaning, and I just used a good brush and hot water with my shop vac. You can see an old stain, probably coffee from a previous owner.
Before:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7253.jpg)
After:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7265.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7265.jpg)
-
Here is a pic of the panel together as I just finished it and cleaned and protected it with Meguairs #40. A little too much shine with flash. I will install it tomorrow with the carpet item. Then will install the top par of my rear seats.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7267.jpg)
-
I just installed installed the rear section of the carpet and you can really see the difference between the original faded grey, the new black, and the dark black floor mats.
You can also see how stained my carpet is.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7268.jpg)
I got the passenger side panel in plus the top of the rear seat. I know can use this as a template to add the rear female seatbelt receptacle which is in the middle. Next job is to drill this in.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7274.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7273.jpg)
-
Can you please tell me the part number for the new engine mounts?
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine%20mount/DSC04305.jpg)
-
Can you please tell me the part number for the new engine mounts?
11811132793 Late e28 535i/is
-
Thanks. One more question: they fit without any modification right?
By the way nice car you have.
-
Thanks...You need to dremel off the bottom tab and then use a good size spacer for the top to fit between the top and the bolt. About an inch if I remember correctly. You can stack thick washers.
-
I got a little done the past few days. I finished modifying the sound system. Ran new speaker wire to all for location where I have my MB Quarts with crossovers. I mounted the tweeters in the factory location. I also got my new/used JL Audio 300/4 amp to power them. I have a free to air Pioneer 10" sub mounted to the rear deck from the trunk side. I power that with a MTX Thunder amp. Overall, the system sounds good and really only to be heard inside. I don't need anything more as this is a daily and want to keep my trunk space. My speakers are the older MB Quarts before they got bought out which supposedly the quality has gone down.
Here is a pic of the rear trunk. I used the OEM carboard and it help up the two heavy amps but decided for something a little stronger. Got some 1/4" piece of wook and wrap it in black flannel.
The rear strut bar adds some protection. It will be painted body color when I paint my car. I have cleaned up the sub speaker cable since this pic was taken. I also cable managed all the cables behind the board to keep it neat.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7317.jpg)
-
Started to work on the front panels. Removed the driver panel to replace my plastic latch and also window motor as it has frozen. Job for each was easy. I also attached the insulation like I did to the rear panels. I have new BMW OEM trimming foil to cover the door for moisture. I still have the vinyl insuation that attaches to the door panel. I am going to see if my car has the key lock cynlinder heater and also waiting on a rubber grommet for the latch rod as it vibrates and rattles the whole time. I will also clean the metal and the inside as it is dusty which you can tell in the pic. Here is the pic of how it is so far:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7327.jpg)
-
I just applied the sound insulation to the outside panel of the innter door. I decided to leave the big holes open as I still need to have it functional to access items inside doors plus leaving the nuts been seen. Since I don't have speakers attached to the doors, I have no need. This is to keep the road noise out. I also got myself a pair of tweeter pods in mint condition. Mine had the metal tabs broken off and I removed the old OEM tweeters to re-glue my MB Quarts. The boiling water trick works to remove the old tweeters. It just leave the plastic with a light fade. I then applied 2 light coats of my match OEM trim paint. I didnt take pictures because everyone knows what they look like. You can see it with the picture of the insulation below.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7562.jpg)
-
Today I decided to plast the trimming foil on the door, or to other, the moisture block see through material that goes on the door.
Here is how I got it from BMW. Took 2 months as it was backorder from Germany. One roll will door 2 doors from what they said, but looks like it can do a whole 4 door car. At least I will have spare. The is self adhevsive and clear, compared to the yellowish tint you see on a 20-year old car. It can be re-used. Hopfully tomorrow I can pick up the door panel foam so I can finish this door. Will also his the arm rest and map pocket with a coat or two of the trim paint.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7563.jpg)
On the door, but very clear so took a close up shot.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7564.jpg)
-
I got time this weekend to work on my driver door panel. Here is a pic of the panel with the new foam and then me working on it. Small teaser. I need to touch up the armrest and map pocket with my OEM trim paint. Then I can install it and work on the otherside.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7568.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7572.jpg)
-
I thought I had posted a pic of the rear seat completed. Will post it tomorrow.
-
Here is a pic of the rear area all done. Need to give the rear section carpet another coat as I wanted to go easy to test it out. Everything is much darker as the camera flash lightens it up. I also received my micro suede headliner from Kevin and some extra piece so i can cover the sunroof visor panel like I did the rear deck. Thanks Kevin.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7577.jpg)
Here is the headliner. Can't really tell from the pic but very goo quality. Will try to install it prior to painting car and worst case is while I prep it for paint as I will remove the glass prior to painting.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7578.jpg)
-
I was going to install the driver door panel last week, but the day before, my lock cylinder decided to break. I was only able to lock and not unlock. The spring and little arm broke off. I ordered the BMW rebuild kit, had to wait 4 days and using some online procedures, I got it back together to keep using my key. Took about an hour as I was taking time and lube made everything slippery. But after putting it together, my key, which was original, would sometimes not work. After looking at things and almost taking it apart again, I decide to get my BMW spare which was a copy that was done about 7 years ago when my sister had the car. The key was actually about 2mm longer. After inspection, the tip had dulled out over the years on the original BMW key and was not able to reach the last new tumbler in the cylinder. So if you have lock issues, check you key also. Here is a picture, not the best, of the new cylinder. Second is the pic of the keys and you can see the tip. I hope to install the new panel after work as I need to touch up the arm handle. Already did the map pocket.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_7584.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_7589.jpg)
-
Well this weekend the wifey let me have the whole weekend before the holidays takes our time and then our first newborn gets here in Feb.
I finished the driver door panel, a little harder than I thought to recover as it is much bigger than the rears.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_76111.jpg)
I then started to remove the carpet so I can try to have it back in the car with a new color. Here are pics of the removal. I ended up cutting around the AC box. Also you can see how dirty and stained my gray carpet is. I will end up using the Colorond product, color black, which I used for the rear section under the rear seat. I have 2 cans and hope that it will be enough since I am going from gray to black.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_75941.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_75961.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_75981.jpg)
I then saw somehting I found under my e28 m5 a few years back, RUST around the accelerator pedal. Other than that, nice, red and clean. I then decided to treat it like I did my battery box with POR-15 rust care. Here a few pics of the progress. I need it to dry fully to do the insulation on the driver side, so will complete that tomorrow. I ordered a new gas pedal as mine was warped due to the rust. I did do the passenger side insulation with Peel and Seal from Lowes. That stuff is great.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_76011.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_76131.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_76141.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_76181.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_76151.jpg)
-
Very nice work. Looks amazing. :D
-
How is the road noise with the insulation on the floor now?
What is it made of and how much weight do you think you're adding on with the whole car done?
-
I'll be doing this in a couple of weekends so it's good to see someone else doing it first. I got some other sound deadening stuff but will be doing that when I swap out my interior. Any advice on the insulation?
-
How is the road noise with the insulation on the floor now?
What is it made of and how much weight do you think you're adding on with the whole car done?
Thanks...I haven't driven it since I am waiting for the paint to dry. I know that adding it to the driver door, inside rear panels, under rear seat made a huge difference. My buddy with an e30, 318is, got in and when I closed the doors, he stated it was so quiet, like in a sound booth. I have used 2 full rolls so far, and I believe each roll is like 10 lbs, so 20 lbs so far, maybe 25 max.
-
I'll be doing this in a couple of weekends so it's good to see someone else doing it first. I got some other sound deadening stuff but will be doing that when I swap out my interior. Any advice on the insulation?
Cool. Well the insulation on my carpet is attached. The stuff I am using is for roofs so it gives it a little more insulation. I am hitting the foam under the carpet with a heat gun to make sure it is completely dry. I have replaced other insulation items, like the cloth behind the rear seat.
-
Cool. Well the insulation on my carpet is attached. The stuff I am using is for roofs so it gives it a little more insulation. I am hitting the foam under the carpet with a heat gun to make sure it is completely dry. I have replaced other insulation items, like the cloth behind the rear seat.
I've got RAAM Mat per recommendations of Blunt. I also got the carpet/fabric stuff too so I'm hoping it'll really quiet things down. Have you driven your car with the insulation yet? How's it work?
-
I've got RAAM Mat per recommendations of Blunt. I also got the carpet/fabric stuff too so I'm hoping it'll really quiet things down. Have you driven your car with the insulation yet? How's it work?
I heard that stuff is good, but expensive. Peel and seal is about $20 a roll and 3 rolls is going to do my whole car. I kept all the nuts and holes open to keep it functional. Lots of people cover everything and if you need to get behind it, it might be a pain in the future as it cooks in. When you say carpet/fabric stuff, what exactly you taling about.
I will drive it later today as I am currently doing the driver side now with the peel and seal.
-
Quick update, received my OEM BMW lighted blank key. Went to a local locksmith that does BMW keys for old cars and he did it for free, left $5 tip. Got a new OEM lighted key for under $25.
While waiting for my carpet to dry from the deep cleaning before the paint job, some of my other parts came in. A new gas pedal as the other one was warped and a few nuts for the seats as the original have lots of rust. I also got my drain blind plug caps. Instead of metal, they are plastic and have a nice tigh fit. The e30 part has been superseded by the e90 part. Part number is 41007140847 in case anyone would like to know if they are doing some body work on their e30. Here are a few pics of the the plugs. I did driver and passenger side.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7634.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7635.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7636.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7637.jpg)
-
Got a little more done today over the holiday break as I wait for some parts to finish my carpet color conversion. I was bored and an idea hit me from my e28 m5. Here are the before and after using the BMW matched black trim paint I have be using on the interior pieces. I still need to give it another coat as I ran out of paint, and need to do the female receptacle. My new supply comes in tomorrow which has more paint for the carpet. Looks like 3 cans are needed as I am taking my time and brushing between coats to keep the fibers soft.
Before:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7704.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7706.jpg)
After:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7708.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7707.jpg)
I also got my new accelerator pedal, OEM from BMW as my old one was warped. I also decided to try something that I did on my e28 m5. I got the aluminum pedal set from BMW for an e46 m3. It comes with rubber inserts that can be swapper after they wear down. I was scared with the gas pedal as the e28 shares the same pedal rubber pads as the e30 for the clutch and brake, but different for the gas pedal. But all is good. Kit is under $100 from BMW and comes with templates and hardware. Just drill to install.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7709.jpg)
-
Installed the pedals today. For those wanting to know, BMW part number: 35000304642. Straight forward on sticking the template on and drilling. Just used a pilot size first. Also the gas pedal is not the same shape in the bottom left hand corner as it curves different but not noticeable unless inspected closely.
Here is a pic of one of them rubber insert and plate together to see how the rubber grips stick out and will wear over time.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7711.jpg)
Here is before. Don't mind the missing carpet. It will look much better to have a black carpet instead of dark grep. Also have an OEM floor mat set on its way.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7710.jpg)
The template stuck on..comes with peel back adhesive sheet.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7714.jpg)
Finished installation. (looks a little off but its not. Must be angle and that clutch pedal sits forward a little more than brake.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7717.jpg)
After:
-
I finished with the carpet after changing it from gray to black. Tomorrow i will install it if weather permits. Came out nice and still very soft. I decided to use more coats but less amount of paint to keep it soft instead of less coats with more paint. Ended up using 3 cans because of this. The flash makes it a little lighter than it actually is.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_77181.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_77191.jpg)
-
Carpet installed. On to rear euro license trim and passenger door panel.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_77241.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_77221.jpg)
-
Wow. That guy will last long. Hey Matt!
-
I received my OEM e30 floor mats in black. The came with 4 clips for the front mats to lock them. They are a little different from the ones you can order of the ETK which I did for my aftermarket mats. These also fit nicely around the pedals. I will be selling the cheap as they are good condition excep the driver side, which is just worn, and will listed it under the for sale section. Next is to install my dead pedal, massive m-technic replica.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_77461.jpg)
Clips, which they twist into the carpet, then the top twists to lock it. (the rust on the seat nut looks worst with the flash. I have new ones for when I redo my driver door)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_77471.jpg)
-
Added the mtech repro dead pedal by Massive. Looks nice I think, good quality. Bolt/screws into place using existing hardware, just had to trim a little as my speaker ring a larger than stock. Feels very nice after a shift to put your foot on the dead pedal. Does not budge even when pressure is applied to it.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_7798.jpg)
-
looking great Alex.. keep it up !
-
Well a few things have come up since my last update. Our first child was born this past Valentine's Day. She is awesome and priorities of course changed. Now getting into the swing of things with the baby being older and having more time to get back to the regular duties. But unfortunately, my car started to have cooling issues the engine 2 weeks prior her arrival. Car worked find but but temp would go up at idle. After cooling pressure test, issue was cracked head or headgasket. Ended up being cracked head. So the car sat 3 weeks after the birth and then worked on it slowly. Got a brand new OEM head for a great price, same price as some complete used ones on ebay. Car has been back on road the last 2 weeks. I have to look at an issue that now, the car idles rough when cold. Didnt't before. Just need some time to diagnose it. But now getting into small projects. I got some new door handles the some on the other forum is selling and was lucky to be at the top of the list. Got them installed today. Very nice quality. Now need to do passenger side lock cylinder to match driver and so both are nice and black like handles. Here are a few pics:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_6037.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_6042.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_6040.jpg)
-
Those door handles are pretty sick :cool:, never seen them before. Good job on the car and congrats on the baby!
-
Thanks. Robertk sells them on all the other e30 forums. Copy of the e36 /e34 m series models, euro version. List is long and lucky got in early. But price is worth it.
-
After replacing my cracked water pump, I got to finish my projects. I installed a new driver side interior sill, the inner part. The clips and the trim piece broken upon removal. I wonder if there is a tool out there to make clip removal easy. Here are a few pics. Just deciding if I should get the outer one side as my passenger side is broken. I guess price will be deciding factor.
Before:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8230.jpg)
During:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8231.jpg)
After:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8232.jpg)
-
Got a few things done today but didnt have a camera. I finished with the sound insulation for the passenger door, just like the driver. Also rebuilt the passenger door lock cylinder with the BMW kit. Much easier than driver door as there is no double lock option for the passenger. Lastly installed the interior door sill like the driver side to match. Tomorrow I should put the moisture film from BMW. Next will be to glue the foam to door panel and then wrap it. Soon will get started on front seats.
-
Did the passenger side moisture block paper from BMW. The roll can easily do a 4 car and maybe 2 more doors. Here are a few pics. You can see the insulation and the block in the first pick. The second is the interior bottom door sill like the driver side. Last is the new passenger door lock and the bezel is nice a deep black to match new handle. Now need to paint car to match all these new parts. Soon. I have to wash my car as I have this weird film all over. Like little sparkles. The door handle has these and looks like it is messed up but in reality it is this stick film.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8257.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8259.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8260.jpg)
-
Here is a pic of the new throttle cable. The design has changed and hard to tell in the picture due to flash. You don't need 2 wrenches anymore to adjust, just spin the finger grip to tighten or loosen cable. Also found out issue with stuck throttle, the shaft that connects the bracket to the pedal and bracket to the cable, has has the bushing bearing break off. It cause the shaft to move freeling and the clip to get caught. Order the $1.50 grommets and bushing to fix the part of the car for the pedal area.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG_82691.jpg)
-
So is that part original BMW?
Where did you get it from?
-
Yes, OEM from the dealer. realoem to get PN.
-
I finally received my parts for all the bushings/grommets for the gas pedal area. All went in smooth and now the pedal is smooth on the return. Also had to give more slack on cable to bring revs down. Next is to remove intake boot to make sure throttle plate is only opened about .015mm at idle. Then I test the TPS as I am troubleshooting the rough idle. I have the COP on the way. Then on to 4-pintle injectors.
Here is a pic of the left side with the new bushing installed on the gas pedal shaft.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/IMG_8280.jpg)
Here is the passenger door. The pic is no the best and looks weird. I did it quick so have to take better ones. Now detailing the interior and then starting on door sills for the exteriror side, as they came in yesterday from BMW. Then I move to passenger front seat.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/IMG_8281.jpg)
Today I replace the antenna mast as it is getting stuck.
-
Added the door sill on the outside part of the door. They look very nice and clean brand new from BMW. On to front passenger seat.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8294.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8293.jpg)
-
Today I added the COP kit. Car revs much smoother. I still have small misfire at idle so next is to check for vacuum leaks with homemade smoke machine. If no leaks will replace ICV a spare I have but not sure of its conidtion. I have already cleaned mine 2 times and now everytime I hit the AC button, the car revs great and smooth. Its only with the AC off that I get this misfire idle. I doubt it is the ICV, but checking everything. Next weekend I will remove the old coil packs, bracket and clean up the cabling. Not a fan of how it looks as I like it to look OEM. Will even try to get BMW plastic cover to work like Simon S on r3v did. Not sure how I will do it yet.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG_8309.jpg)
I also fixed my power antenna. I found a old one from an e24 in my dad's parts. They use the same part numbers for antenna. I opened his, and swapped motor. Now I have smooth and quiet antenna. Here is a picture of the new with the guid on the shaft and mine with it missing. Sorry for the bad pics.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_8311.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_8310.jpg)
-
lol,you should put a 8turn rc motor in it.^^^ That would be one fast ass up and down antenna.
-
lol,you should put a 8turn rc motor in it.^^^ That would be one fast ass up and down antenna.
Yeah, lol.
-
Tackled the oil filter housing leak this past weeked. It looks like the top right hand corner of the paper gasket gave out and was leaking. You can see the pool of oil it would accumulate. Even more dripping to the top of the bottom oil pan. I now have a small leak and pretty sure it is the oil pressure switch. The washer didnt look good but didnt have one. So waiting on a new one.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG_8363.jpg)
I also became pro-active for the first time. Replaced the master clutch cylinder as it was getting notchy. I replaced the slave a few months ago. I also decide to replace the rubber clutch line with the UUC SS verison plus the bushings for the pedal itself to remove the sloppyness. Mine didnt squeak but hear this also resolves that issue.
Here are a few pics as I ordered a new return spring and rubber grommets like I did with the gas pedal.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8369.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8367.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8368.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8372.jpg)
-
Plastilube FTW!!
Keep us updated...your attention to detail is astounding.
-
Plastilube FTW!!
Keep us updated...your attention to detail is astounding.
Yeah that stuff is amazing. Bought it for urethane bushings as a tip from Peerless on other e30 forums. Worth the ~$9 for the tube.
-
How'd the master cylinder for the clutch go, install wise?
-
Install was easy for the most part. The issue really is getting the hard line off the MC from under the car. Not a lot of space to work with under booster. If you have different booster or booster less, it should make it easier. Just had to work with my legs toward the back of the car and be completely underneath to get a good angle with left hand. Have done it many times an a e28 and much more room. Working from inside the car is a breeze. The SS line kept hitting the upper fin on the tranny. Just took dremel to it, not much but enough to clear line. The m42 tranny I guess is different than the other e30 ones.
-
Here is another update from over the last 3 weeks. First I started on my front passenger seat. Here is a pic of the old seat. Sure needs to be recovered. I will recondition the shocks, metal base and wasted foam pieces. Here is the headrest before and after in the black micro suede. Matches nice with the rear ones and very modern with no piping and french seams.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8395.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8398.jpg)
New one:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8400.jpg)
Here are a few pics of my homemade DIY smoke detector machine, and workd pretty well, from searching the web on how to make it. Found some on e46fanatics.com and composed my version.
Get a quart metal paint can, ~$2 at Lowes/Home depot. Then drilled a hole at bottom wide enought to fit the AC Delco glowing plug ~$9 at Autozone. Then bought a nut at Home Depot to fit threads on plug, metric size ~$1. Then JB weld it to the can. Used teflon pipe tape and screwed the plug in. I need to add more tape as I got some of the oil to leak, very little but still leaked. The plug uses batter charger, 12v 10amps to power it on. Use the postive on the lead and the negative on the base. Used alligator clips to be able to easily disconnect on of the leads to turn it off. I have to build legs for it but if you hang it or use 2 2x4 pieces on the edge, you dont disrupt the electrical connections. Fill can with unscented baby oil until half the plug is exposed. I then drilled 2 holes on the lid and JB Weld to air compressor hose fitting to it to easily attach a rubber hose to shoot the smoke and the other for the air compressor hose fitting which is my air source. Turn it on, regulater compressor to 2-3 psi and you have a smoke machine. Mineral oil or hobby train might work better to give a darker smoke but baby oil worked just fine. The using a funnel on one end of the rubber intake elbow you fire the smoke in. You can use the hose off the valve cover by the oil cap to see it. I have small leaks due cracked hoses by the couplers. Sure way better than paying a shop to do it or $1K for the machine. If anyone has questions, let me know.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG_8413-1.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG_8414.jpg)
Last week, closing the passenger door, I heard a clunk and door didnt close. The bottom hinge pin broke in half and now the door was not aligned to close. I order the BMW repair pin that comes with new pin, sleeve, washer, clip and bolt. Today I replaced it, took about an hour. I wanted to do it with the door on but being in the bottom, I couldnt get to it. If it was the top one, you can easily do it with door on. I had to take the door off and it was pretty simple. Did it by myselft but if you ahve another set of hands, the removing of the door and returning it on the pins makes it easier. No need to realign as the hinge on the chasis was not touched. Here are a few pics of process:
Here is pic of the pin broken:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8406.jpg)
Here is door removed:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8407.jpg)
Here is the broken piece coming out, used punch and hammer:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8408.jpg)
Here it all back together and good as new:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8411.jpg)
-
Another quick update. I got my interior LEDs from superbrightleds.com. I changed out my glove box light which takes a 36mm festoon bulb. This company uses high power LEDs as I tried the regular 9 LED bulb version they made and though the bulb looked nice, the ouput was not enough to my liking which has to be like stock but doesnt hurt to be brighter. They have a 3 HP led bulb version that is 37mm festoon bulb and worked perfect in this spot. Will later order 2 more for the trunk light and get another housing from the junkyard to had 2 housings in the trunk for more lighting. I will also get them for the licensce plate housings. Instead of getting it in the warm white which mimics the incandescent bulb, I opted for the clear white which gives it a more modern look and more white. Here is a pic of the glove box in the dark with the flash turned off, before (stock bulb) and after the bulb swap.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8565.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8566.jpg)
I then decided to get new dome housings as the originals ones were a little yellow, cracking but still worked just fine. The new ones click so much nicer between the 3 settings. The BMW part is actually the Hella part so don't waste money on the BMW part. The bulb is the same size as the stock, 44mm. I went with the 3 high power LEDs and they do offer a 6 LED version but then it might be too bright. Here are them still in the BMW package. Then a side by side comparison. Then pics of the passenger side before and after.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8567.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8572.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8568.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8573.jpg)
Next is the e36 rack sway this weekend. Have e36 LEM tie rods, 95 m3 rebuilt rack and spacers from AKG. I also got a new oil pressure switch from BMW, except same part as TRW (actually stamped with TRW) to finish the small oil leak issue. This switch uses 24mm instead of the other brand 22mm. Just got a new wrench today for the job.
-
Great.
Especially like the much brighter light.
-
Took care of the little oil leak that was still happening today after work. Already replaced oil filter housing gasket and oring and leak got better. Now needed the oil pressure switch. I got it from BMW which is the same as the TRW part. Even stamped with it. The size is not the normal 22mm size like the Meyle version but uses a 24mm size. The problem is the plastic housing would just spin which then cause oil to seep throught. The BMW/TRW one is not possible to spin the way it is built. Here are the pics:
Old Meyle:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG_8576.jpg)
New BMW/TRW:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG_8575.jpg)
-
Well today I wake up this morning and when I turn the car on to go to work, and I get a huge smell of gas. Opened the hood and one of the small rubber hoses going to fuel rail under the upper intake manifold is leaking. So after work, since I have extra BMW 8x13 fuel hose I went to replace it. I found out one of the original clamps was bad and couldnt be tighten anymore. This normally happens with these clamps overtime. I still swapped out the hoses and replaced the clamp. But when I removed upper intake the gasket was broken in 3 parts. I think this is my bad idle/bad mpg, plus the loss of fuel to make it worst. I ordered the gasket but car is back on road until I get gasket Mon or Tues.
I also order a piece of 12mm silicone black hose from Hi Performance after Desktop Dave's review of their product. I order the 2ft length to change out my oem hoses that go from valve cover to throttle housing. The cable fit very snug on both ends. I could have cut about 4-6 inches but wanted to keep the hose without kinking and using the same path the OEM hose uses, which is under the intake manifold. Here is pic of the 3 items and upset I had to use cell phone for pics. When I replace gasket, I will take a better pic of hose installed. I need to figure out hoses for the ICV run even though I am using the 2 stock hoses and then a stock plastic coupler with a molded ICV hose for the m30. Looks stock.
Here is the hoses I replaced with the silicone. It is the 3 piece with 2 couplers. I used these after removing the throttle heater plate. And 10x eaiser to remove upper intake with out having to deal with coolant hoses.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG00009-20110722-1738.jpg)
Here is the new hose, terrible pic. Hose is great quality.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG00010-20110722-1738.jpg)
Here is the new hose installed. Being that it is a little longer, I ran it towards the rear of engine and thenturn it back under the throttle housing. Bad pic but better coming soon...
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG00011-20110722-1756.jpg)
-
Finally, after almost 2 years of having the e36 rack, I installed it due to leakage from my e30 rack. I purchase a 95 m3 rack (3.0 ltl) from a junkyard for $35 and $15 for shipping. Had it rebuilt with lifetime warranty like I did my e30 one. It lasted 6 years and the issue with it is one of the rubber lines that goes from one end to the other popped loose. I will have it rebuilt and then sell it with the warranty as I have receipt paid in cash to someone local. Will help offset cost of e36 rack rebuild.
I started to remove the old rack. Very simple and use the tie rod ball joint puller which takes 2 minutes per side.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/power%20steering/IMG_8577.jpg)
I then removed the rack. Only issue I had was I couldnt get knuckle off rack and next time will try to remove it while rack is still bolted to subframe for extra support. Made installation a pain but not difficult since it is an airbag car. Here is the rack removed and what leaky ATF does to the rack on the outside. No fluid inside the boots.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/power%20steering/IMG_8578.jpg)
Here is a before and after of the subrame area under the PS pump. I just used a rag and next weekend will drive it on ramps and clean with degreaser and hose. The subframe has nice OEM sticker stating airbag info from factory in orange. I wiped it before I took the before pic. It was covered in grim and was not visible. Nice to see it even after 20 years on the car.
Before:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/power%20steering/IMG_8579.jpg)
After:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/power%20steering/IMG_8580.jpg)
Here are the spacers from AKG for the top of the rack when mounted to the subframe:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/power%20steering/IMG_8581.jpg)
Lastly the new rack. Here they still have the old boots. I replaced the whole tie rods with e36 Lemfoerder ones which are beefier than e30s. New boots and new metal clamps instead of cable ties even though that would work.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/power%20steering/IMG_8582.jpg)
I then bent the hose that goes from the PS pump to the rack. I modified the opening on the firewall. It is the black plate from the pedal assemble that needs to be grinding, not the actual firewall of the chasis. After it is installed, the grinding was not necessary unless you want the rubber boot to fit better. I just modified the boot to seal up the whole. The car turns much faster and feels great. Today I have alignment appointment. I also ordered the PS delete to remove 9 pounds of hardware. It should be here tomorrow and will try to to get to it this weekend while cleaning the underside.
-
Got a few things done today....
Replaced passenger side seatbelt rod bolt cover, minor but it was cracked and driving without a passenger seat since Christmas, it was bugging me. Here is the pic and you can the old one in the top left had corner. It was cracked and part of the edge was deformed from stepping on it while getting in and out of car from back seat.
Some of the pics for this thread suck due to focus. Didnt check after pic was taken.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8631.jpg)
Next was replacing grommets and return spring for clutch pedal. I recently did the same for gas pedal and did the clutch pedal bushing, so just wanted to finish it off correctly. The spring grommets on both sides were gone and the spring ends were touching metal.
Here are a few pics of the parts and before and after for the upper grommet.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8633.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8636.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8634.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8635.jpg)
Finishing up with e36 rack upgrade....
I got the PS delete from Silence. I removed the lines and reservoir with hoses. Still need to remove pump.
Here is a pic of the PS delete:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/power%20steering/IMG_8639.jpg)
Here are the hoses loose from the PS pump and draining the system
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/power%20steering/IMG_8640.jpg)
While draining, I removed the old reservior, hoses and brackets
Now you see it:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/power%20steering/IMG_8641.jpg)
Now you don't:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/power%20steering/IMG_8642.jpg)
I replaced the cable ties with the OEM metal clamps after running rack for a few days to make sure nothing was leaking. Here is a pic with the delete also installed.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/power%20steering/IMG_8644.jpg)
Here is the tool to clamp them. I bought it many years ago for some coolant lines the use them on the e28 m5. Got it at Grainger.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/power%20steering/IMG_8643.jpg)
Lastly, here is a pic from inside the car at the plate that needs a little grinding for the e36 rack swap on an airbag car. It is held with 2 13mm bolts and comes out easily as long as you have the steering column telescoping rod out. I just got it loose and did it there. You can also make a new plate also.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/power%20steering/IMG_8637.jpg)
-
Wow you really keep track of what you do. Wish I could be as detail oriented....
-
Its not hard, just need to start and organize your self and it will come natural. I have a binder with all my invoices and a small notebook where I log every part replaced. I don't keep track of what I paid because I would die or realized I could have gotten a new care for all the money and time I have spend on this car. I also post my things to help others when they need to do the same.
-
Yep - that's an excellent how-to. Those little bits are the ones that irritate the most. I've replaced the clutch spring bushing myself...it makes an annoying little squeak as it perishes.
I have a binder in the car for all my receipts too...and I keep track of expenses in a spreadsheet...separate pages for each car & bike to keep track of service intervals, parts & fuel, with totals pulled through sheets to let me know the bottom line! I'd strongly recommend keeping detailed records. It keeps spending under control, permits good budgeting, and helps resale value, because the next owner will understand how well you took care of the car.
I started that spreadsheet to refute my wife's accusation that I was spending a lot on the cars...turns out that once I add the mileage checks from work...the car runs me a solid profit.
-
Yeah, at least with my wife, she agrees a few hundred every month or two is still cheaper than a car payment. Then I sell stuf and use paypal funds to purchase upgrades. Only way to do it with a budget.
-
Today I replaced my alt/water pump belt as it was falling apart and luckily I did. 3 rubber teeth were missing. I also finished removing the power steerring pump for weight reduction. The car without power steering is not bad at all, just hard from a dead stop but you get use to it. I know my upper strut mounts are binding which make it harder.
I also continued on my passenger seat today, little teaser of course. I still need to work on bottom have and order the seat shocks. Just need to check if I need all 4 shocks, so far I need 2.
On to the pics of the mtech centers and micro suede bolsters to match rears and door panels. It is not hard to work on the seats, just tedious. I understand now why labor can be expensive doing this.
Top half off:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8660.jpg)
Center cushion removed and side bolsters/frame:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8662.jpg)
One side bolster hog ringed with blace micro:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8670.jpg)
Main teaser, center section just resting on frame with mtech m3 pattern, horizontal instead of vertical stitching plus the one side bolster:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8671.jpg)
-
After my last head rebuild, the flywheel blind plug would keep slipping out until I noticed last weekend it fell out. Probably due to the plastic ridges being worn out after the 20 years. I got my new one from Blunt and on it went. I have seem some m42s without them which can let debris get into the flywheel. Very hard to get something hard in there but don't want to take the chance.
Plug from BMW:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG_8726.jpg)
Plug installed, which took a little force to get it in there which means it will not budge.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG_8729.jpg)
-
Got the top half of the passenger seat done. Now working on bottom half and checking if I need any of the shocks or hardware. Will also clean up the metal base.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8730.jpg)
-
Today I replace the rubber vacuum hoses from the ICV to the rubber intake boot with a silicone hose. So heater plate has been fully deleted and all hoses are silicone. I bought it from the same place I did the VC to throttle hose. This one is just a little wider. I kept ICV in the stock location and just bent the bracket that holds it just a little so the hose underneath ICV has room to curve without giving it a kink. My car has the recall valve kit for the heater core and if it wasnt there, I wouldnt have to bend the bracket. I kept the stock hose that goes from top of ICV to valve cover. It is so short and tight bend that I rather keep it stock to prevent any kinks in the hose. I order 2', the minimum and cut about 4 inches but could have done more but like to give the hose room to move if needed. In the end, buying these 2 hoses would have been the same cost as buying all the stock hoses if you wanted to keep the heater plate, but of course more expensive that just buying rubber vacuum hose.
Here is a better pic of the VC to throttle hose plus the new one installed.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG_8813.jpg)
Here is newly added hose, hard to see under ICV.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG_8814.jpg)
Here are how both hose look under boot/throttle plate:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG_8815.jpg)
-
Here is an update of the works week at home during some free time at night. Keep working on the passenger seat re-cover. I removed the hinge mechanisms and gave them a good cleaning with brake cleaner. Then lube up gears and levers with bike chain lube. I only need one seat shock as it had a 600N version instead of the 350N. Everything worked fine but might was well fix it right will in here. So I have new one on order with the clips. I will take pics of them and post them up tomorrow. To remove and install shocks, I went to Home Depot and purchase this for $30, XPS600 clamp. Very powerful and a breeze on the shocks. Might be a pain due to the size to replace backrest shocks while the hinge is still on the seat. Since mine were out, it was simple.
Here is pic of the tool, $30 well spent:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8817.jpg)
Here is the thigh bolster frame and new(old) foam I took from the free sports seat I picked up from a forum member. Mine was shot and missing small chucks.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8819.jpg)
The thigh bolster all installed, you really notice Kevin's high quality when putting his kit togehter:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8823.jpg)
Here is the bottom frame of the seat with center removes and one side bolster skin off. You can see how bad my seats are looking at the right. I have cleaned out the frame from dust and will refinish the runners as they have a little surface rust.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8824.jpg)
Here is not the bottom frame with one new bolstered recover in the black micro:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8832.jpg)
From a different angle to enjoy the french seam stiching instead for piping:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8831.jpg)
I should finish seat this week but need the shock and clips to finish putting it together and mount it back in the car.
-
Your updates continue to amaze.
-
Thanks Dave and for you input on Hi Performance hoses. Really like their stuff and kept it all OEM looking and should last me as long as it takes me to get s52 engine.
-
Received the parts to finish the seat hinges. I need to find a foam bolster for the other bottom side. Will try junkyard this weekend, if not, will go on the forums or ebay. I got my seat shock and all new clips. I cleaned the hinges with brake cleaner and then lubed up the springs and gears with bike chain lube. Here are some pics.
New parts:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8846.jpg)
After cleaning:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8848.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8847.jpg)
-
I have to stop reading this...you're going to cost me a fortune getting both sets of my leather sports re-done!
I definitely agree with the french seams...IMHO the best upholstery stitch, very durable. Both sets of my sports leather seats have the piping cracked and it makes the seats look very ratty.
-
Something minor. I needed to get free shipping from Bluntech so got me a new BMW fuse box cover. My original was bad and non OEM. My dad got a new one for his e23 so I took his as it was OEM. Non OEM does not have roundel and fuse numbers. This one just had the big clip broken and one of the small one. I just got my new one with all clips. I will sell the old one on the boards.
New one:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG_8870.jpg)
Old one installed:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG_8871.jpg)
New one installed:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG_8872.jpg)
-
Oooh very nice! That wax job looks awesome!
-
Still looking for the foam piece to finish passenger seat. Free time has turned to new house purcahsed with my wife and baby. I did get my Bday gift. No longer availabe from BMW but some people have them in stock. If you want one, supply is limited.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8938.jpg)
And here it is resting in the new home:(also have the e39 BMW manaul holder with all my paperwork. Cleans up the glove box.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_8939.jpg)
-
LCAB removal/install tool rental ... Monty, I'd love to rent the lcab tool ... but where did you get it? Who makes that thing? How soon could You ship it to me?
-
SIR tools makes it, just like Baum, but I bought a similar version from another company.
-
I love that little flashlight, it's been very useful in several occasions...I also have the extra cig plug adapter, great for the GPS. I'll be looking for the upgraded owner's manual folio at teh pick-n-pull next time I'm there. It's the little things that make the biggest differences IMHO.
Monty, you're missing the two OEM PITA screws on your new fuse box cover! I left mine off as well, they just get in the way.
-
Monty - as you well know I like simple instructions ... I found the site for the manufacturer which you can point renters for the LCAB tools! Great stuff, thanks for your help!
http://www.mistools.net/shop/page/3?shop_param=
-
Haven't done anything to my car recently, due to baby and new house purchase. I just put gas and drive. But oil change is a must every 5k miles with Mobil 1 0w40 European car formula. I also decided to install the UUC magnecitc drain plug to catch little metal shavings. Also less than 20 miles before the odometer hits 200000.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG_9018.jpg)
-
Hi: I love your seats! Beautiful.
I'd love to redo a set that way.
Thanks for post!
Cheers.
d.hitchcock
-
Thanks.
-
Monty ... It always seems like something doesn't it? How much was that drain plug?
-
Like $10 bucks I believe. I know sometimes they have a sale and give them for free with a purchase but I didn't want to wait and last oil change it came in a few days after so had to wait until this past oil change to swap it in. Their products are great as I have the SS lines, clutch SS line, the clutch pedal bushings and my favorite, the RK5 gearshift knob with combo e-brake handle.
-
Nice. You and Simon are my heros. I can't keep up with you guys and your mechanical ability, but I am trying. As for me, next year I'm going to do the clutch, clutch line, and all the pedal bushings. I also plan to swap carpet out and seats (E21 Recaros).
-
DOH! Went to post about how nice your seats are and saw I had already mentioned it.
Carry on. Nothing to see here ... :-)
-
Well still busy with new house, kid and work. Havent touched the car since last oil change. Just drive it daily with no issues. Still need to tackle rough idle. But I needed wipers and decided to get the Bosch Evoloution a try. I always liked my wife's newer Volvo ones as they cause pressure across the whole blade and have a nice sweep. These are the same type and from Blunt, ~$10 each. Not the $20 each for the newer Rainx ones. Here is a picture of them. I just washed the car and will wait until the next rainfall to give it a shot.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_0242.jpg)
-
Today I added a second trunk light added LEDs instead of incadescents. Also replaced both lenses and you can see the difference in the clearness of the plastic after 20 years.
New on left (bad picture but you can still see the difference)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/IMG_1179_zpsd05e4d17.jpg)
Here is the install with both bulbs on. Big difference in lighting. I just quick tap connectors and went to the junkyard to pull the wiring from another e30 so that the wiring color codes are the same.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/IMG_1183_zps17c27df1.jpg)
-
Today I swapped out my FPR due to invalid fuel pressures. Here is pic of old one installed and then the old and new one(blue rings) next to each other. I will clear out the ECU codes and just run it 1 tank full to to see if there are any differences in MPG and running rich issues.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG_1715_zps3fe83105.jpg)
Not best pic as P&S camera not the best.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG_1723_zpscdb937a0.jpg)
-
Was is possible to change it for you, without removing the upper intake?
-
Yes, I was. I just need to remove the plate in towards the front of the engine to hoist the engine. To lower the FRP from the rail, took a little of time and finally, just needed a very small flathead on each side of the FPR to pry it loose from the fuel rail. Just make sure not to bend the tabs of the fuel rail or you will make it very hard to get the clamp and ring with the FPR secure. The BMW factory manual stated to do it on the car like I did. My idle seems to be gone. I noticed a little fuel on the nipplen I disconnected the vacuum hose. Diaphragm must be toast. This was allowing fuel into the TB and intake side of the issue. MGP was down and causing the running rich issue. Then O2 would sense rich and go into a loop and cause the lumpy idle. I would suggest everyone replace it as mine was 22yrs old. When it comes to wear and tear, the age itself is going to get you. Not sure if the diaphragm is plastic, paper or rubber.
-
Thanks.
-
I took the trunk storage tray to prep it for some SEM treatment. Here are some pictures of the before. I have already applied the SEM soap and tomorrow I should give it a few coats of the trim black. I ordered a new battery tray cover as mine was missing a piece of plastic. I hope to have it here by the end of the week. The tray is not on any ETKs even though it has the BMW logo and a part number. The outer wall was pretty warped, which seems normal from looking at most of the pics on the internet for this item. I applied some heat from a heat gun and molded it back to better position. The longest partition on one end had the outer wall coming in so much, I was only able to fit something an inch wide before it started to push the outer wall out. Now it is much better.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/IMG_1841_zps351432bc.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/IMG_1840_zps7e6a52a1.jpg)
-
Treated the storage tray with SEM soap and a few coats for Trim Black. Here is the final result. Key was making sure can and exterior temp was close to 70 degrees. I am now awaiting for the new battery tray cover from Blunt to finish it off. I will post pics of that when the parts get in.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/IMG_1842_zps9651a078.jpg)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/IMG_1846_zpsc3f27314.jpg)
-
I've heard so many good things about SEM products. I haven't given them a try yet...but I'm sure I will.
Nice job on the repaint.
-
I've heard so many good things about SEM products. I haven't given them a try yet...but I'm sure I will.
Nice job on the repaint.
Thanks Dave. Their stuff is really good but like with all cosmetic work, its 90% prep, 10% paint. Make sure you use either solvent to clean/prep for plastic or metal.
-
While waiting for other parts and while making a trip to Home Depot for a project on the house, I decided to get liners for cabinets as they are padded and have a grip for the inside of my trunk storage tray. I then cut it to the inside shape of all the different sections and now I can have something in there not moving around. Also, it covers up the hole in the middle and they are washable in case something spills. This will protect the tray a little more. I got the black color, but due to texture and flash it looks more gray then it actually is. I might also add it under the tray in between it and the battery tray. Extra protection! I need to see how it handles the heat inside the trunk in the upcoming summer in South Florida.
The product:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_1868_zpsbc9f764a.jpg)
Before:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_1869_zpsd13d2069.jpg)
After:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_1870_zps7a0d3878.jpg)
-
I am almost complete with how I want my overall look of my trunk to be. I received my new battery tray cover and mounting clips, thanks Blunt. The current mounting clips have the tab so you can use your fingers and the new ones have a slot for a flathead so they don't stick out as much. This is not an issue for the clip on the top, but the 2 bottoms ones would once in a blue moon, come off due to something hooking on them in my trunk.
Here is the before. It wasnt bad, I just wanted the broken tab on the right near the floor carpet back. Notice the clips
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/IMG_1892_zps18d21c2a.jpg)
Here is closer look at the 3 new clips on the left and the old ones on the right. These are used for the headlight trim panel also. Might be preferred and easier for others to use your finger to remove versus a flathead screwdriver.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/IMG_1893_zpse78e282f.jpg)
Here is the new cover installed. It does not have a hole in the bottom center to lock the storage tray with it. Better for me.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/IMG_1894_zpsd47609dd.jpg)
I then added some of the grip liner under the storage tray to prevent sliding, as with new plastic, everything is smooth and it did slid.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/IMG_1900_zps2fa3f60e.jpg)
Here are both items together for the finish product. Now off to another idea I had to complete the look of the trunk.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/IMG_1899_zpsd8dedcb3.jpg)
Also, I ordered an AC belt from BMW since it was 885mm in length, versus the standard 890mm we receive when it was ordered. The item did have the BMW logo on it but it was made by ContiTech, which is the same brand as my 890mm belt. I couldn't get the right amount of tension with the longer one as I would have the hex bolt at the bottom of the pulley as tight as possible. I would still see a little wobble on the belt travel and it would be noisy sometimes. So if you want the tighter belt on your m42, the tirck is to get the smaller one from Contitech. The issue is going to be to find it but it should be hard. Just there is no BMW part number to use unless you get the belt directly for BMW.
Here is a pic of it:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/IMG_1904_zpsc353161f.jpg)
-
SEM treatment to rear trunk trim above rear lights. The before and after doesn't show much difference as after picture was taken with no flash but there where too much sunshine. Noticeable in person. Many of the scratches and white scuff marks are gone. Also treated the 4 clips that hold it in place.
Before:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/IMG_1850_zpsabe12efb.jpg)
After:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/IMG_1909_zpsbaabf7df.jpg)
-
So I decided to change something in the trunk to clean it up and match everything in black. The rear tail light panel that hold all the bulbs is a ugly gray that doesn't match anything in the trunk. Also with over 20 years of use, it is all scuffed and scratched. I decided to give it the SEM treatment to clean it up. Here is the driver side:
Old installed:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_2281_zps3d7efe6f.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_2281_zps3d7efe6f.jpg.html)
Comparising old vs. new:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_2280_zpsf4975171.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_2280_zpsf4975171.jpg.html)
New one installed (direct flash lightens the battery cover and storage tray, all match in person):
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_2282_zps458dd7b2.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_2282_zps458dd7b2.jpg.html)
-
Very nice! I might have to do that to mine as they look like crap. You wouldn't happen to have those part numbers handy for the battery hold down clips would you? I'm working on putting together the last little bits from Blunt including some missing cruise control stuff.
-
thanks and sure, here it is: 51471945266
-
My car jack and tire choke had some rust on it. Mostly at the bottom of the car jack and since the tire jack is under it in the trunk, the rust surface rust started to build up on it. Who knows in the past before I owned it, water would get into this area at the bottom and the car jack would just sit in a little puddle of water. No leaks since I have owned it but the damage was already done. I decided to give it the POR-15 treatment which I have already used it. Here are a few pics of the before.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_2307_zps8272ebf4.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_2307_zps8272ebf4.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_2308_zps0ee92566.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_2308_zps0ee92566.jpg.html)
Then after the treatment. I used the gloss black paint as I was not going to paint the whole car jack so I wanted to match as much as possible. This should now keep it protected for a very long long time. I highly recommend POR-15.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_2309_zps794461bc.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_2309_zps794461bc.jpg.html)
-
I decided to smoke my rear tail lights.I would love the MHWs, but too expensive right now for me. I got a pair of OEM ones in much better condition on one of the forums. I then cleaned them and took a picture of them.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_2338_zps7b962a4b.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_2338_zps7b962a4b.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_2337_zps71c258ba.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_2337_zps71c258ba.jpg.html)
I then did some research on bet way to do this. I bought some wet sand paper, in different fine grades, 1000 through 2000, and did some wet sanding. I used VHT nightshades paint and bought clear. I wanted to give it a light smoke. I ending up giving the lights two light coats. Since I masked the surrounding areas with blue tape, I decided to do the same with the reverse light. In the end, the reverse light got one coat and the rest 2 coats. I applied the clear which in my opinion was not the best application of it. Either temp/humidity was not right or it needed more coats or a thicker coat. A little more wet sand and then finished with some polish. The pictures are not the best as it was 1pm outside when I took the picture, so it was very sunny with the sun right above and I cast a little shadow in the middle towards the bottom but also makes it look extra glossy. Much better in person.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_2737_zpse7f7cd5b.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_2737_zpse7f7cd5b.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_2736_zpse8dae864.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_2736_zpse8dae864.jpg.html)
I need to take a picture of it on the car during the day. I will do it when I get home from work and will post it. Here they are on the car at night with the reverse lights on. Smoked on the left. Not a difference in the light output from what I saw. The only difference is the turn signal, but it is minor.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_2782_zps6219e80d.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_2782_zps6219e80d.jpg.html)
-
That looks great. You really put a lot of time into this car - 13 pages of updates?!? Thanks for taking the time to share it all!
Since I'm such a nebby little beotch, what's in the little Cisco package? ;D
-
That looks great. You really put a lot of time into this car - 13 pages of updates?!? Thanks for taking the time to share it all!
Since I'm such a nebby little beotch, what's in the little Cisco package? ;D
Thanks. Regarding the Cisco logo, it is a bag that folds down to something that is 5x5, and has a button to keep it closed. Never has used it but fits perfect. I dont have the triangle that is suppose to go there and I have a better shot of using the bag than the triangle. I keep it there in case I ever need a bag for an emergency or something. I got it at one of their events. I am a network engineer by day....lol
-
Here is the promised picture of the car during the day. The light shows just fine with the tint. It is already a little hazy due to dirt on the car. Yes yes yes, car needs a polish...lol.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_2794_zpsd1d5bfff.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_2794_zpsd1d5bfff.jpg.html)
-
Moved on to my next project. My car for the last year has only had the driver side wiper working. The passenger stud for the arm was stripped but with the nut held tight it still worked, I removed it to fix the missing grommet. Since then, I've been lucky it has been working on the driver side. I got an OEM new linkage for $75 on eBay. They normally go for $150+ new from BMW, my cost. I know I got a steal. I will post a pic once I install it and the process. Before I do, I wanted to refresh the windshield washer system.
I have the older tank with out the sensor, which is stock on the m42 318is. They are NLA and I don't want to buy the new one and plug it, at least not yet. I decided to clean it with chlorine and hot water from reading many DYIs online. In the end, it is cleaner, but still with light yellow tint. Nothing will beat new plastic.
Before:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG_2853_zps32ea5f5f.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/engine/IMG_2853_zps32ea5f5f.jpg.html)
After:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG_2855_zps755b739b.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/engine/IMG_2855_zps755b739b.jpg.html)
I then recieved a few goodies from BMW. I already had the new cap, with is nice a black and like the newer cars. I decided on the BMW pump as the aftermarket ones do not last as long. My old one was aftermarket and the casing on top, cracked plug the venting holes were also leaking and rusted. Basically it leaked anytime it was activated. I never got water up to the check valve or very little before it would hit the nozzles. Included was also a new grommet for the pump, cheap and for piece of mind. Lastly a new strainer. I also got OEM washer hose. Guess what, it is thing 4.6mm and black. Nothing like the clear etched white tubing. I still need to get a more hose for the check valve/nozzle area.
Pics of new parts:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG_3323_zpsec6f9a13.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/engine/IMG_3323_zpsec6f9a13.jpg.html)
new BMW pump and old aftermarket pump(blue):
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/398e7294-79bf-4896-994d-5fcf489504d1_zpsca15dd6c.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/engine/398e7294-79bf-4896-994d-5fcf489504d1_zpsca15dd6c.jpg.html)
new white strainer:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG_3329_zps66474496.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/engine/IMG_3329_zps66474496.jpg.html)
All together:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG_3331_zpsbb1905dc.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/engine/IMG_3331_zpsbb1905dc.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG_3330_zpsce68e48a.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/engine/IMG_3330_zpsce68e48a.jpg.html)
If weather permits, I will change out the check valve as it was leaking all the water once I activated the pump. Glad I ordered one ahead of time.
-
That's some gourmet action there, I haven't seen one that clean since about 1990, LOL. I wasn't aware that the tank is NLA, that's a bummer.
-
I finally got to install the 4-pintle Bosch 556 injectors. They came re-conditioned as I didnt want to take any chances on used ones. I also cleaned the lower intake manifold, from fly-by oil. I guess maybe I need a oil catch can as other have installed. I also replaced the upper/lower gaskets, which I got from BMW, as they were the same price for me as aftermarket ones, while I ordered some BMW dealer only items for another project. Very nice quality on the gasket but unless you get them same price, the aftermarket ones are fine. Lastly replaced two small fuel hoses under manifolds as a precaution. I did have my current stock injector cleaned at a Bosch authorized center about 6 years ago. I need to clear the ECU next to make sure it re-maps everything after the new changes. I will then run a couple of tanks and see how the my MPG is reacting and more importantly how my idle is doing. Still looking at my running rich issue. After this it could be fuel pump replacement, o2 swap or examine timing again. Besides idle, the car runs great and only on idle without AC does it seem to go into the rich loop. I did find two of the lower intake manifold nuts on, finger tight. Maybe this was causing the vacuum leak/running rich issue. More to come in the next 2 weeks. On to the pictures:
New parts all from BMW:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG_3395_zpse67e87c2.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/engine/IMG_3395_zpse67e87c2.jpg.html)
All intakes removed, at least the new head from almost 3 years ago is still shiny from the engine maintaining I do. Also noticed one of the newly installed valve cover bolt orings is missing. Can't believe I missed it. Will have to find the missing one or order a new one on next order.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG_3394_zpsefe6bd9b.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/engine/IMG_3394_zpsefe6bd9b.jpg.html)
New lower gasket installed:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG_3396_zps77c00e3e.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/engine/IMG_3396_zps77c00e3e.jpg.html)
How all injectors looked even though inside the cap where it shoots our the fuel it was clean:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG_3403_zpsa13945f5.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/engine/IMG_3403_zpsa13945f5.jpg.html)
Not best view of inside lower manifold. Cleaned with toothbrush and simple green:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG_3400_zps8b9cac35.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/engine/IMG_3400_zps8b9cac35.jpg.html)
New injectors installed, using old retaining clips on both sides of injector:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG_3405_zps7ea7608e.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/engine/IMG_3405_zps7ea7608e.jpg.html)
Lower manifold and upper manifold gasket installed:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG_3406_zps9fb4173c.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/engine/IMG_3406_zps9fb4173c.jpg.html)
-
Still on the windshield wiper system....My linkage is old and worn when it comes to the splines where the wiper arms connect to the linkage. Actually the passenger side does not turn unless I over-tighten the nut but after some time, it goes back to not working. At least my driver side works and gets through me if it is raining for the last year. I did get a new OEM linkage which I got lucky with purchase on ebay. New I can get them for ~$150. I got this one for $75 online. Used ones go for around $50.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_3627_zps5e9249d2.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_3627_zps5e9249d2.jpg.html)
I have had it a while but since on this project, I decided to swap it out. Not a fun job since the AC box is in the way. I eventually go it out as there is one real way to get it in and out and just takes a lot of wiggling the linkage unit to get it right.
I did replace the fresh air blower about 3 years ago with a new one but never cleaned the area. Here is 20+ years of grime in the area:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_3680_zps252acbee.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_3680_zps252acbee.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_3679_zpsfce01316.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_3679_zpsfce01316.jpg.html)
I then got the old linkage out with was rusting away in the middle. Here it is on the bottom with the motor still attached and the new one above it.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_3681_zps3b27d66e.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_3681_zps3b27d66e.jpg.html)
Here is the new linkage with the motor installed and the motor cover cleaned back together:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_3683_zpsaa8a7c2b.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_3683_zpsaa8a7c2b.jpg.html)
I have the new linkage installed. About to finish with AC box install. I just need a few parts for the linkage/wiper arm area. I need driver side grommet with I bought less than a year ago for the passenger side. Since it is rubber, it waste away and I would get wobbly arms since the linkage arm was not fix going through the body of the car where the arms connect. I will post more pics of the final install once I receive the parts next week. Thanks Blunt...
-
My hat is off to you for pulling that wiper assembly. I hate those things!
-
My hat is off to you for pulling that wiper assembly. I hate those things!
+1 on that - that wiper linkage R&R has to be the 3rd worst job on an E30...I'd say rear subframe bushings or rear wheel bearings top the list.
Great work as usual, BTW! I was unaware that linkages are still available from BMW.
-
Yes they are. I have done the rear subframe bushings and since I have the tool, the wiper linkage is worst. I have done a lot of things on the car and confirm that it is a top 3 worst thing to do. If AC box is out, then it would be a snap. I would recommend checking the linkage if doing a AC box removal just to get it while in there. I still haven't done a wheel bearing on this car but have done an e28 before and not fun.
-
Finished the wiper hose addition with new hoses and clips. My nozzles are fine, I just need to aim them. I ordered all the OEM parts for the install and tried to figure out how it all went together. I searched for pictures on the internet and even though I didn't find an original picture of the car in this area as it left the factory to confirm, but I believed I figured it out or at least it makes sense to me. Also, our cars did not come with the factory hood cover but I do know which holes are used for it so I used the other ones for the hose path. Pics taken at night. Now just need new wiper arms or used ones with good splines on it, to install on the linkage.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_3702_zps28b47415.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_3702_zps28b47415.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_3703_zps57abc7a1.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_3703_zps57abc7a1.jpg.html)
-
SEM prep and treatment to the trim under the front windshield:
Before: (wet after simple green washed)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_3717_zps43bc591a.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_3717_zps43bc591a.jpg.html)
After:(full prep and spray down)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_3718_zpsee576178.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_3718_zpsee576178.jpg.html)
Here are the arms after SEM prep and paint I got at the junkyard and the extra new trim pieces. Then I find out, the the arms are actually two driver side from the car I pulled it. So out $5 for one arm. Need to go back to get passenger side.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_3719_zpsbbd4c5fd.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_3719_zpsbbd4c5fd.jpg.html)
-
I received my OEM spray nozzles which were cheaper than aftermarket from my source. I would like the heated ones but here in S. FL, not needed. Also got my new arms. Now I realize that SWF arms and Bosch ones are a little different but the angle is the same.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/washer/IMG_3769_zps2f92d4e0.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/washer/IMG_3769_zps2f92d4e0.jpg.html)
Here is a pic of them installed and now my wiper system is complete rebuilt minus the water tank. I have the frameless wipers from before and highly recommend them even though they are double the cost of the regular ones. I believe our stock size is 20" on both arms, but I might get 19" for the passenger side not to hit the windshield edge trim. Anyone else have this issue. I aimed the nozzles per the factory repair manual and now I move one to my suspension upgrade.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/washer/IMG_3809_zps7d6a7cca.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/washer/IMG_3809_zps7d6a7cca.jpg.html)
-
Here is small teaser pic of my next project which I have had in a box for the last 3 years in storage. I need tires very soon, so instead of getting new ones, just going to install my e30 m3 5-lug suspension. First thing is to rebuild the brakes. Here are the front brakes which I started to clean but ran out of brake clean. I am looking at options to powder coat them myself as having them down will be too expensive for me. Brakes are huge and heavy when I saw them for the first time. Can't wait for the stopping power upgrade.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Brakes/IMG_3810_zps4d46ddca.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Brakes/IMG_3810_zps4d46ddca.jpg.html)
-
Those brakes do look tasty - are they OEM M3 calipers?
I swapped to the beam-type wipers as well. The new style don't wrap perfectly, but I can live with that. The beam wipers are FAR better during the winter. Getting ice off them is a piece of cake!
IIRC I selected a shorter blade, don't recall for sure. I can measure & report back if you like.
-
Yes...OEM e30 m3 front calipers and carriers. Just ordered the rebuilt kit and looking at the brass bushing sleeves as an option. Looking at pros vs cons...Any input Dave?
I don't have an issue with ice here...lol..
Do tell what size you have to compare. thanks.
-
Here is a picture of one of the calipers and carriers cleaned up with different wire wheels and some brake clean. I was doing this myself in the meantime while deciding to paint or powder coat the calipers. I still need to some some corners and was going to use the small wire wheel on the Dremel but I decided to powder coat them gloss black as I found a shop near me that is cheaper than most and great quality. Dropped them off today and since he sandblasts them before, I don't have to do the other side. The flash make it look dark/dirty is some corners.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Brakes/IMG_4203_zps10e2494e.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Brakes/IMG_4203_zps10e2494e.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Brakes/IMG_4204_zps58cdaf3f.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Brakes/IMG_4204_zps58cdaf3f.jpg.html)
-
I think you'll be more satisfied with powder coating. The calipers that I took so long to prep and paint looked like crap less than a year later...and that was using brake caliper paint! >:(
-
My current ones with caliper paint are still black but don't clean easy or lets say, never look clean. So with powdercoating it will be easier and look nicer. I also went with black as with the wheels I have in mind for the car, you won't see the caliper so no need for any color. I do like red but these are not Porsche or Brembo brakes.
-
are you saying those are just cleaned? they weren't repainted? i painted mine with trim paint but they've got stone chips and peeling
what is SEM Prep and treatment? I'd love to refresh all my trim instead of repainting
SEM prep and treatment to the trim under the front windshield:
Before: (wet after simple green washed)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_3717_zps43bc591a.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_3717_zps43bc591a.jpg.html)
After:(full prep and spray down)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_3718_zpsee576178.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_3718_zpsee576178.jpg.html)
Here are the arms after SEM prep and paint I got at the junkyard and the extra new trim pieces. Then I find out, the the arms are actually two driver side from the car I pulled it. So out $5 for one arm. Need to go back to get passenger side.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_3719_zpsbbd4c5fd.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_3719_zpsbbd4c5fd.jpg.html)
-
are you saying those are just cleaned? they weren't repainted? i painted mine with trim paint but they've got stone chips and peeling
what is SEM Prep and treatment? I'd love to refresh all my trim instead of repainting
SEM prep and treatment to the trim under the front windshield:
Before: (wet after simple green washed)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_3717_zps43bc591a.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_3717_zps43bc591a.jpg.html)
After:(full prep and spray down)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_3718_zpsee576178.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_3718_zpsee576178.jpg.html)
Here are the arms after SEM prep and paint I got at the junkyard and the extra new trim pieces. Then I find out, the the arms are actually two driver side from the car I pulled it. So out $5 for one arm. Need to go back to get passenger side.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_3719_zpsbbd4c5fd.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_3719_zpsbbd4c5fd.jpg.html)
They were painted. I notice on other cars when they do the trim paint, that after some time, chips and peeling happen. Its all int he prep work to prevent this. I cleaned with Simple Green degreaser then use the instructions provided on SEM sits under the MSDS doc on the trim paint. For the metail, you need to sand and use a cleaning agent which is a spray can from SEM also. Then I painted with trim paint. For the plastic pieces, you use SEM soap with grey scuff pad, very important to be gray. I got mine at NAPA. It sand finely the plastic. Then paint. Adhesion promoter not needed but recommended.
-
Thanks i'll definitely be giving that a shot. I was going to just plastidip them, but i'll probably do this first and see how i fair
-
Decided on powder coat, gloss black. They came out awesome and very nice in person IMO. Picture is at night with flash so not the best but more pics to come of it installed. I got new OEM bleeder valves, guide pin bushing kit and new ATE seals ready to install. Will do it this week. Next is to order pads, rotors, pad sendor and m3 sway bar links. Then to check condition of control arms and my AKG offset bushings. I can save $$ if I can reuse them after 3 years of use and hope nothing is really worn.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Brakes/IMG_4225_zps50f8b656.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Brakes/IMG_4225_zps50f8b656.jpg.html)
-
Those are pretty! Can't wait to see them installed. Did you get them sleeved?
-
Neither can I. No sleeving, just a good cleaning. Were in great condition the calipers.
-
I got a pic of some OEM items for the calipers. I added the new bleeders, new guide bushings and caps and cleaned out the old guide pins. Next is the piston install. Will submit pic of it put together. Might have to wait until the 26th to do it, unless I can sneak it in tomorrow.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Brakes/IMG_4230_zps04c1966b.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Brakes/IMG_4230_zps04c1966b.jpg.html)
-
I received my special lube for the caliper piston install. From Dow Corning. It does not melt and does not mix with brake fluid. Its what the Porsche guys use. Not very cheap but made install very easy. Brake fluid was not working. Very very little tolerance on the seals and the piston. ATE has a special lube, which is not Plastilube but over $30 for a tube and not available in the states. Other brands have something that should work. Plastilube has been used but it is not designed for it and didnt want to take the chance.
Here is the newly powder caliper with guides, bushings, and piston installed. Still waiting on my other parts so I can install it all.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Brakes/IMG_4269_zps859be774.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Brakes/IMG_4269_zps859be774.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Brakes/IMG_4271_zps42946143.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Brakes/IMG_4271_zps42946143.jpg.html)
-
Got a new TRE fuel pump as I still hunt my rough idle. Glad I replaced it as it is much smoother but still a little rough. Looking at O2 next. The original pump was stamped BMW so it might have been the original or at least youngest age possible, 13 years as my car joined our family back in 2001 and the pump has never been replaced. The car sat without moving for 4 years locally before my dad bought it for my sister back then. Glad to get in there to replace it. I have 4 pictures but I had to recover them as my wife deleted them from the digital camera. I recovered two of them but only the thumbnail is viewable. Used my dremel to cut off the bottom lip and the rest was straight forward. Hightly recommend due to price, warranty and it is very quiet. On to the pics:
New pump:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Fuel%20system/_MG_4315_zps6dab58e1.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Fuel%20system/_MG_4315_zps6dab58e1.jpg.html)
Old Removed:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Fuel%20system/_MG_4316_zps106fab25.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Fuel%20system/_MG_4316_zps106fab25.jpg.html)
New pump with old frame:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Fuel%20system/_MG_4317_T1_zpscc1d2478.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Fuel%20system/_MG_4317_T1_zpscc1d2478.jpg.html)
Installed a little cleaning of area:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Fuel%20system/_MG_4318_T1_zps7fe28487.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Fuel%20system/_MG_4318_T1_zps7fe28487.jpg.html)
-
Used my dremel to cut off the bottom lip and the rest was straight forward. Highly recommend due to price, warranty and it is very quiet.
Thanks for posting this. I've been considering this for a long time. I suspect our high alcohol fuels have been slowly doing in my pump.
Makes me wonder if it could replace the dual pumps in older BMWs? I'll have to check into that; if the pump flows enough fuel for an M30, that's a cheap upgrade for older BMWs. Two pumps are a good solution, but very expensive to replace.
-
Well today my 7.5a fuse blew. I need to figure out why, I put in a 15a just to drive home. Online I see some people have had the same issues. Just need to research it. Don't really want to drive the car with wrong fuse. I wonder if the connector on the top of the housing might be dirty or loose. The car has been great otherside. I know people of putting them in the e34 cars, but a single solution. I know some e30s came with dual setup so as long as your fuel rate is at least stock numbers, you can probably switch to a single setup.
-
For those following along, I call TRE and they told me the pump draws between 10-11 amps at high RPMs. Just put a 15a fuse in its place, which is my current remedy using spare fuses in my fuse box. Next is to make sure my wiring handles the higher ampage. Older e30s use a 15a fuse with 1.5mm wiring which can handle close to 20amps. But the 91 318is ETM does not have this section, or at least I couldnt find it. It does state the fuse is 7.5a. Looking at a 91 m3 ETM, the wiring is the same as older e30s but it states to use a 7.5a system. I assume the lower fuse is used on cars with one fuel pump versus the older e30s with two pumps. So in the end, without going out to measure the wire to make sure it is 14 awg, the 15amp fuse will rectify my issues.
-
I'd just swap the fuse and not worry about it. Happily, BMW uses very high-quality wires. IMHO it's one of the reasons the cars last so long.
-
I have been a little busy, as I got a 01 530i to split daily duties with the e30. Better to take girls out to school and not hinder the interior of the e30. But finally got all the parts for the e30 m3 suspension swap.
So starting with the removal for of the stock e30 parts.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_4821_zps4f6cf604.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_4821_zps4f6cf604.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_4822_zps7484c29d.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_4822_zps7484c29d.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_4823_zpsb1fc48bc.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_4823_zpsb1fc48bc.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_4824_zps87f2ec7a.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_4824_zps87f2ec7a.jpg.html)
-
Got more time to continue on project.
Got BMW OEM control arms just a few dollars cheaper than Lem. arms which I had. My old outer ball joint was sloppy due to a back shock strut insert nut that had gotten loose. This also caused the sway link to be sheared on the bottom side.
Here is the new with old. Notice one side of the arm does not have the holes. More solid. Got a new nut for both ball joints also from BMW.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_5150_zpsd098c0d4.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_5150_zpsd098c0d4.jpg.html)
My AKG m3 offset bushing is still good but had spun a little due to worn parts. This time I used a 6mm hex set screw on the top of the lollipop. Highly recommended after what happened with me. I forgot to take pictures of it before I mounted it. Here it is when I removed it.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_5151_zpse417a529.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_5151_zpse417a529.jpg.html)
Here is the Bilstein sport strut from the old housing in the new m3 housing. Previous owner bought it and never installed it but had it painted a nice deep black. I also got the bisltein tool to torque the strut insert nut. Disregard breaker bar in pic, was using it for something else.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_5152_zps41312af6.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_5152_zps41312af6.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_5153_zps8a361d17.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_5153_zps8a361d17.jpg.html)
-
It's nice to see that I'm not the only one who epoxy coated my strut housing.
Going to check my lollipops next time I get a look under the car. Never suspected it was possible they could rotate.
-
Neither did I even though it was recommended. But if something is out to alignment due to something broken or worn, it cause more stress on the other parts. Mine was just exessive and caused the movement. I have no slop on the driver side and it has not moved in the same time frame. Set screw is just reassurance.
-
Have washed the parts a little before installing. Renting the spring compressor tomorrow. I got an OEM strut bearing. I want the camber correction one but for the price, I rather save a little more and get the Vors. camber kit in the future as I would like GC coilovers in the future.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_5161_zpsdc949437.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_5161_zpsdc949437.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_5160_zps23db761e.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_5160_zps23db761e.jpg.html)
-
Are those H&R OE Sport springs? I found the car sits a little high in the front with them, you shouldn't have too much negative camber.
I would love to replace my strut bearing, it's 12+ years old a little rusty and likely worn out. I have the offset mount set to + camber, it sits nice but I'm wondering how much negative camber I will have with the standard mount and M3 control arm bushing.
-
Yes OE Sports. I wish is was a little lower but it works nicely as my daily driver.
-
Strut installed....
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_5166_zpsb90c5af2.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_5166_zpsb90c5af2.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_5165_zpsa9640b6b.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_5165_zpsa9640b6b.jpg.html)
I still need to install the backing plate/dust cover. The wheel bearing is not spinning like my old, so I want to install it all and see how it goes before I add the plate. I also want to add the OEM brake ducts and see if I can get it to the backing plate. I don't want to take hub out then put it back in and have to remove the bearing.
The only none BMW brand item, the rotors. They are from Balo which is same as past hub and good enough. BMW ones are very expensive. Set screws are BMW.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_5167_zps431edff9.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_5167_zps431edff9.jpg.html)
Here is the old rotor, still mounted to old strut with new one. The m3 rotor is 1 whole inch larger in diameter. From the angle a little hard to tell. I took my tape measure. m3=11", e30=~10"
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_5168_zps8e280393.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_5168_zps8e280393.jpg.html)
Here is a comparison of the carriers. I need to trim a little of the powdercoat on the inside of the carrier as the bottom opening rubs the disc. Not much tolerance there.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_5169_zps7a9f5a82.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_5169_zps7a9f5a82.jpg.html)
-
Here is a pic of the difference between the stock e30 sway bar link compared to the e30 m3 which connects to the strut housing instead of the control arm. Went with the BMW part also.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_5253_zps2f9eac77.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_5253_zps2f9eac77.jpg.html)
-
here is picture to show the difference between the stock e30 and e30 m3 brake pad size:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_5254_zpsd366880c.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_5254_zpsd366880c.jpg.html)
-
Thanks for the pictures - I wasn't aware that the M3 parts were such a substantial upgrade. I can't wait to see the results, and your opinion of the swap.
-
Hi
It is just me or does the m3 pad face angle back?
Big increase in area.
Cheers rohan
-
Hi
It is just me or does the m3 pad face angle back?
Big increase in area.
Cheers rohan
Best of all, no more Girling seized pin or ripped boot hassles.
Pretty sure the pad is beveled to prevent noise due to buildup on the leading edge, the trailing edge to even out the friction area. Personally I would prefer to have the entire pad surface in tact but sometimes this is done on OEM brakes for good reason.
-
I had a small ordeal with the brake pads. They were too thick. After shipping them back and getting the new ones. I get everything installed last night. I even installed new anti-rattle clips from BMW. Just need to bleed the caliper and tighten the swaybar link nuts. I can't find my 16mm open wrench so will borrow one from my father today. Then I can start on the driver side. I have all the parts for that side already.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_5305_zpse5759892.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_5305_zpse5759892.jpg.html)
After the car gets aligned and I make sure the wheel bearing is fine, I will need to add the backing plate but will also run brake ducts to them.
-
Brakes bled and started on driver side. I had my e39 530i spare tire, to try it on. It is one of the rims I might use. 17" style 42, which is the never version of the style 5s for the e39. I want to go with an 16" rim but this is an option since I have them. The tires a just a little too tall but looks like 235 width might work if they do not stick out of the fender too much. Tomorrow I will borrow some e12 14" rims in the meantime.
Here is a pic of the style 42. It does look nice and I like the perfectly centered wheel. Wheel is still off the ground so it will look better when it is on the ground.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_0016_zpsbf5ed76c.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_0016_zpsbf5ed76c.jpg.html)
Here are my 3 options which I tend to lean towards the 16". I will go with a two tone on all the wheels. Nagaro silver center with silver(not sure if polished lips)
16" e28 m5, which I have 3 of them. ( not my pic)
(http://www.euromcars.com/parts/e28m5/wheels/03-08-07/e28m5w5-2.jpg)
17" e39 style 5s, I have set that I can take from my father. (not my pic)
(http://assets3.fcpstores.com/public/assets/products/97840/large/Rim_5.JPG?1362694838)
17" e39 style 42s, I have them on my e39, and I can put the style 5s on the e39 if I go this route. I prefer the style 5s on the e39. (not my pic)
(http://www.euromcars.com/parts/ebay/11-05-05/bbs42-1.jpg)
-
Alex!! good to see you still on here making that E30 better. great pics and detail on the M3 suspension swap. So many wheels to choose from now!! good luck!
-
Nice work.
Keen to hear how it handles and brakes after the brake upgrade.
Cheers
-
Long overdue update:
I finished the front e30 m3 front suspension swap and added e32 16x8 wheels for now.The tires I wanted were out of stock and get these dirt cheap. I want a taller tire for comfort and to fill the wheel well better. I am running 215s, upgraded from 205s. I am waiting for some used e28 m5 wheels to come up and will run these in the meantime. Very similar wheel with just a 23mm offset versus the 20mm I am looking for. Also the e28 wheel is 7.5" wide. The car handles better than before and this is probably due to all new components minus the reused AKG offset CABs, but the newly installed swaybar links with the new geometry help the body roll. Also like the centered wheel in the wheel well than you get with the e36 m swap.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_0001_zps595df1ba.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_0001_zps595df1ba.jpg.html)
-
Hi
Did you feel any difference with just the m3 upgrade?
What size wheels are they 15's?
Cheers
-
Yes a good difference but not crazy. The brakes need to be rebled but car has a bigger bite. Also it is better on the turns. I owe this to the better swaybar link location.
Wheels are 16x8.
-
Next project is to install the rear euro license trim that was given to me 4 years ago and I finally decided to install it. I ordered new hardware for the install including a new BMW license plate holder. I have the chrome one that says BMW at the bottom but since the car is all blacked out, I moved it to the e39 and bought this one as it is black andslim and will go better with the euro trim in my opinion. I am waiting on some screws to mount it. More pictures of the whole backside soon when everything is installed.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/euro%20plate/IMG_0006_zpsa608b473.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/euro%20plate/IMG_0006_zpsa608b473.jpg.html)
-
So finally after having the euro license filler for 4 years, I installed it. Received the new screws and plugs. I also had the adhesive tape which is not double sided like everyone thinks. It is actually a trim tape to cover the paint of the car, for example where the holes are for the euro license plug or another hole at the top by the lights. I ended up not using it.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_0050_zpsgq7ercvo.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_0050_zpsgq7ercvo.jpg.html)
I started by removing license and old white plugs.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_0051_zpscjuixddn.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_0051_zpscjuixddn.jpg.html)
Then washing area. Added painters blue tap on the inside to keep car dry on the inside. Worked like a charm.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_0052_zpszybyyeta.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_0052_zpszybyyeta.jpg.html)
I wanted to reuse the original mounting holes to prevent new holes and any possible leaks. I used new black plugs as they are more slim. I heard in another post this would work and keep the trim flush to the car. I can confirm this is true with some modification of the panel. The BMW part is available still in white but the new slim black version is available and even cheaper.
Here is a pic of the white plug. I didnt take a pic of the black plug but its way thinner.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_0057_zpsucmurduk.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_0057_zpsucmurduk.jpg.html)
Black plugs installed:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_0056_zpsne7suu3l.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_0056_zpsne7suu3l.jpg.html)
Trim held up with blue tape and centered to draw holes from inside the trunk.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_0055_zpsejxkjdxj.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_0055_zpsejxkjdxj.jpg.html)
In order to use the black plug at the bottom, I had to trim the ridge on the back side of the trim panel with my dremel. Very easy and thats it. The top black plugs fit just fine.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_0057_zpsucmurduk.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_0057_zpsucmurduk.jpg.html)
I then use a small strip of exterior double sided tape on the ends where the ridge line is. This adds a little more cushion on the sides but with the license place one and screwed in with 4 plus, the panel is held on very tight.
Here is the finish product but it was night. I will try to take a day pic tomorrow.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_0062_zps95g6bwxl.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_0062_zps95g6bwxl.jpg.html)
-
Today I took a pic of the new rear license trim during the day. I also, under someone's recommendation, added two more coats for clear to the driver rear light and then wet sanded it with 1000, 1500, 2500 sand paper. Then I used rubbing compound plus a polish after to make it less hazy. Looks better in person and now you can see your reflection in it. Still need to do the passenger side but it got cold in Miami, which does not help the painting process.
Lastly I finally bled all the 4 brake calipers all the way and now the car stops so much better. I can now feel the bias with the larger front caliper.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_0084_zps4s4x9q4g.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_0084_zps4s4x9q4g.jpg.html)
-
I upgraded to a OEM lighted key sometime back. Believe it is in this thread. The bulb finally died so I decided to do the upgrade to LED as many have. I bought two bulbs from where I get my LEDs. a 3mm and a 5mm bulb. Everyone uses the 5mm but I want to see if I can get a 3mm to work so then I dont have to modify the housing to fit the bulb. The 3mm is only 1 lumens less. I also got the better 1632 battery. Here is a picture of both bulbs, in the cool white color and the battery. Both bulbs are very bright. Annoying bright if you face it towards someone's eye from 1 foot away.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0702_zpsend8udjj.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0702_zpsend8udjj.jpg.html)
My key, since it is probably then all those that wrote up a DIY, the different internal components. The copper ring is actually closed and does have the same vertical piece that many wrap one of the legs of the LED bulb. I had to improvise remove part of the copper ring and basically just use the bulb with out cutting any of the legs. It works perfect. I ended up with the larger bulp. I still need to trip the housing so that that the key closes better but ran out of time. The smaller bulb would be perfect but would need something to prevent it from moving. Probably a little hot glue. If a 4mm bulb exists, it would be a perfect fit.
Here is a picture of key put back together with the light facing the camera almost dead on.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0706_zpshq9nofii.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0706_zpshq9nofii.jpg.html)
Here is a picture of my front door from inside the house with no light and then a picture of the same area only using light from the key. The key is about 12-18" from the door knob. It can also work as a small flashlight, but I know the battery is not capable of working for a very long time. But good enough to use at night when opening car door or trunk.
I went with a cool white bulb. So basically $3 or less to get bulb and battery.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0703_zpszgbnlwgv.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0703_zpszgbnlwgv.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0704_zpsqxoofjtr.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0704_zpsqxoofjtr.jpg.html)
-
Another job well done, I always found the dull glow of the original key was useless.
Do you know of any LED's that match the interior dash bulbs? All I can find is yellow or red.
Here is a little LED project I will be installing soon.
-
Nothing much but finally got rid of my rough idle. My harmonic damper rubber sheared off, and car shut off due to crank sensor not getting a good signal. To confirm timing was ok, I took off the valve cover and made sure timing was right. It was off a few degrees on both intake and exhaust side. Most have been during my last rebuild as I only did the top end and didnt remove any lower timing components like the first time. The car was more peppy but running rich on idle. Now its super smooth, maybe not as peppy and my MPG should go up from the 23mpg I am currently receiving from combined city and highway driving. Besides changing the injectors for 4-pintle (which is an upgrade), a new FPR, was was defective due to FPR test, and a new fuel filter, I didnt really have to spend money on parts. I did replace my O2 which was at least 10yrs old, and it did increase MGP from 19 to 23. If timing was found to be fine, I would have to have looked at ICV and AFM, the two most expensive parts. Not bad idea to check timing every 5-6 years to play it safe.
-
Got my new exhaust installed a week ago. Old one had many leaks and small cracks in different locations. Went with a DynoMax Turbo exhaust, Magnaflow universal SS cat, with Jones SS resonator. Also added a basic SS tip. I went from the 2.25" stock size to 2.5" all the way back after the headers. All the stock mounting points still exist so I can remove it in two pieces if I need to work under the car. Here are two pics of the install. Car has a nice deeper idle sound. Does get a little raspy over the 4-5k band. Its not as loud as I thought it was going to be. With windows up, AC on and with the extra cabin insulation the exhaust is not heard unless it approaches the redline. Now with my sound system on a normal volume, it can only be heard if paying attention to it.
Here are the pics:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Exhaust/20150822_102050_zpsbwls5rxi.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Exhaust/20150822_102050_zpsbwls5rxi.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Exhaust/20150822_102055_zpskka8qfu1.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Exhaust/20150822_102055_zpskka8qfu1.jpg.html)
-
Hi
Does it feel like less power in the lower rpms with the 2.5 inch exhaust?
Cheers Rohan
-
Not really, I feel it the same but as you start to accelerate, you do feel the difference, but not much. I doubt I gained more than 3-4 hp. After fixing my timing, the car is a little less peppy on take off. That would be that now I am running less rich, less advanced on the timing.
-
Nice work as usual. I'm really liking that exhaust setup. I went with a Magnaflow generic muffler the last time mine rotted off. It's not bad, but I'll save your parts list for the next time.
-
THanks Dave. It has settled in nice now. Just great to have the exhaust leak noises. Now car purrs especially after fixing rich idle issue. Wished it had a lower pitch and not as raspy at the higher RPMs but works ok for me. I know a Supersprint would be nicer but $ with this setup makes it easy.
-
I decided to upgrade my reverse lights with nice bright LED bulbs. What is nice, they come in a glass dome like OEM. The difference is huge. Very bright white light when both are swapped.
Bulb:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0097_zpsik6d6x3h.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0097_zpsik6d6x3h.jpg.html)
Installed on the driver side with stock on passenger side. Took pic without flash which shows a difference but picture does not give it any justice. I just bought a pair for my dad's e28 and he loves them. He is not into the newer LED stuff but he is really happy with them.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0095_zpsnwksjpch.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0095_zpsnwksjpch.jpg.html)
I also had my antenna motor die where I have to force the mast up and down to help motor. Even installing a new mast didn't help. I have fixed the internals so many times that finally bit the bullet and got one. Luckily there was a mess up on the order and with BMW part NLA, I got a new Hirschmann for $130. I was debating on using the Z version but I link the vintage look of the mast going up and down. I also like the minimized look when the antenna is down.
Newly received antenna.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0098_zpsvonz5x9m.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0098_zpsvonz5x9m.jpg.html)
Old one before removal:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0099_zpszokgvsru.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0099_zpszokgvsru.jpg.html)
New one prepped with old bracket for installation:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0100_zpsylccu04w.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0100_zpsylccu04w.jpg.html)
New one installed and it all works fine. Silky smooth operation. I got some free Hirschmann wipes to clean and lube the mast. Plan on using it every 3 months. If after 2 weeks all is well, I will sell the old mast, Hirschmann brand with black tip for a discount. Its not even a month old.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0101_zpsrw5ug53l.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0101_zpsrw5ug53l.jpg.html)
-
That globe is great where did you get it from?
-
superbrightleds.com
Part Number: 1156-CW3W-G
-
Happy New Year everyone!
So 2 weeks before Christmas, I noticed my clutch pedal would only get into gear if the pedal was against the floor. The MC and SC are not even 4 years old and I did try to bleed it. Nothing changed and I felt the issue was mechanical inside the bell housing. With the SC out, I noticed the plunger was going in at an angle. Weird. I felt the clutch for, and it was too noisy when I would tap it, seemed loose. I started the process last week of removing everything as I am off the last two weeks of the year. I have everything off and sure enough, the clutch pin on the opposite side of the SC behind the pivot fork broke in two. How a $3 plastic part is making me do all this work is not fun.
Here is a pic of the two piece issue:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0123_zpshhzuavnv.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0123_zpshhzuavnv.jpg.html)
I did order a performance clutch pin made of silicon bronze so that it outlasts this transmission and prevent this from happening again. Here is a pic courtesy of AGA in California.
(https://www.agatools.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/small_image/800x600/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/c/l/clutch-pins-solid-1.jpg) (https://www.agatools.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/small_image/800x600/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/c/l/clutch-pins-solid-1.jpg)
Here is a pic of inside of the bell housing and you can see where the clutch fork kept rubbing against the bell housing. Glad I did it now as eventually I don't believe would you have been able to engage the clutch.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0120_zps2rb6k2dc.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0120_zps2rb6k2dc.jpg.html)
But like with everything I do, I am taking an approach of doing a lot of "while I am in there" repair. First thing, I need a new driveshaft. I believe this is the original and the rear u-joint is notchy. New one came in and silky smooth. I called the best in the business from research on the forums, Drivline in Portland, OR. They gave me a price and said they can ship one out of a warehouse in Virginia. They don't servive the BMW non-serviceable U-joints anymore and dont even sell the ones that came with serviceable U-joints. My thought which is what they stated, they never sold many of theses and normally a drive shaft should last you 10+ years. If you remove it, you might as well replace the whole thing then service the u-joints as the price is not a deal breaker. I then called Powertrain Industries in CA which I bought a driveshaft over 10 years ago for my M5. The guy gave me the option to send in my driveshaft or it would be easier and not a difference in cost to just purchase a rebuilt one. They also stated to have one in warehouse in Virginia. Coincident, I think not. Did some research and there is a compnay that pretty much handles all of the US for rebuilt driveshafts with 4-5 warehouses around the US. I ordered it from Powertrain, got it here on the 24th. Here is a pic of the old and new (inside the box).
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0116_zpsrxgpi3xt.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0116_zpsrxgpi3xt.jpg.html)
Here is the tranny. I ordered all the seals and even ordered a UUC Evo3 SS with DSSR. This saved me on some funds which I was gonig to spend on rebuilding the shifter parts, a savings of about $75 which when towards the SS. Also they have a sale with a free DSSR.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0119_zpsbpflra6f.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0119_zpsbpflra6f.jpg.html)
I am going to replace the flywheel with the M20 conversion so need to put that order together. Just reading up on the how to make sure I get all the right parts.
-
Couple work pics are delaying progress. I did receive my m20 flywheel today. Also confirmed it by weight, 8lbs. Need to resurface it and will look at ring gear swap option and a light lightening.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/IMG_0141_zpsc1tnvlom.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/IMG_0141_zpsc1tnvlom.jpg.html)
-
Always get great ideas from you, awesome work!
Cheers Rohan
-
Got mor time to work on car while m20 flywheel gets the works. I found a local shop to swap out the m42 ring gear and add it to the m20 fw. This way, I don't need to modify the m42 starter or purchase a m20 starter. Getting it down for the price of a good used m20 starter. I am also looking at getting the TDC flywheel lock hole added to the m20 flywheel. Not a need but a want.
Today I swapped out the rear engine seal and started the cleaning the back of the block. I used the adapter to tap in the new seal used blue hylomar for the seal/carrier fitting. My rear seal was not leaking but rather swap it out now while in there. I have the pilot bearing to replace, and that is next.
I first drilled a tiny hole into the seal and the screwed in a machine screw. Then using the back of a hammer, I pulled the seal out. 10 mins total. Used the trick I read only a few times.
The parts, using BMW brand where I can:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0147_zpsjlmxjx8l.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0147_zpsjlmxjx8l.jpg.html)
After the install:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0149_zpsal9ilyko.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0149_zpsal9ilyko.jpg.html)
The pilot bearing:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0151_zpsnjra0ahv.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0151_zpsnjra0ahv.jpg.html)
Next up, will be the pilot bearing replacement, installing the flywheel, still debating on getting it lightened with the clutch masters stage 1 clutch and pressure place. I have all brand new OEM bolts and hardware straight from BMW for this install. More pictures to come.
-
I had work today but got the pilot bearing tool. I research the bread method and it worked like a charm. Only took a slice and a half of white bread. I used the BMW plastic tool and just used the Dremel to cut of the ring which you use to pull. Then used the 2.5lb hammer and about 25 good smacks it popped. Cleaned out the inside and then added the new BMW pilot bearing using a 22mm long socket and a regular hammer to tap it in. The old one was ok but it wasn't smooth like the new one.
Here it is installed. Next up is the FW install with clutch kit.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0153_zpsypogxvul.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0153_zpsypogxvul.jpg.html)
-
I have been traveling for the last 2 weeks so everything went on hold. Today I went by to pick up the flywheel from the machine shop. All looks good and then when I came home, I did a mock up before I send it out for lightening/balance/resurfacing.
All fits like a glove. The machine show which is only 10 blocks from my house was about to remove the ring from the m42 flywheel and add it to the m20 one. They did have to shave a little from the diameter of the m20 fw. Then I requested they add the 8mm TDC and 180 degree TDC holes so I can still use my flywheel lock pin. With this, I can use my m42 starter and no modification needed. Also, no need to buy the m20 start. The lightening/resurface cost will surely be more expensive than what I paid.
One thing to note is that the spacer plate that needs to be removed from the m42 flywheel by drilling through the rivets, will need one hole widen to fit the rear crank hub guide. The TDC hole is the one in between the two dimples on the inner hole.
Monday I take it to the clutch place. Will keep cleaning items ans start to work on the seals for the transmission. I am in town for the next month so I really hope I can finish it by then.
Here is a picture of the m42 fw on the left, the loose m20 ring gear, the spacer with the widen hole and the m20 flywheel, with TDC marks and the ring gear installed.
Something to note, the new BMW provided m20 flywheel bolts already come with yellow threadlocker applied.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0154_zpsrkztbquq.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0154_zpsrkztbquq.jpg.html)
-
Today I installed my lighten, about 3 lbs, resurfaced and rebalanced m20 flywheel. I installed it with stock BMW m20 bolts. Torqued it to factory spec. It is nice to have the flywheel lock pin to hold it in. THen I installed the ClutchMasters stage1 m20 clutch kit with new BMW torx bolts. Torqued that to spec as well. Just need to finish cleaning up the bellhousing and replacing the seals, and replace the ATF.
Flywheel installed:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0155_zpsv72qlaw6.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0155_zpsv72qlaw6.jpg.html)
New Kit:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0157_zps63wiihtl.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0157_zps63wiihtl.jpg.html)
Clutch aligned and installed:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0160_zpsbtyvxkhz.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0160_zpsbtyvxkhz.jpg.html)
-
Adding a few more pics of the process. Replaced the transmission input seal. I reused the metal casing and just swapped in a new seal. I also got new bolts and washers from BMW. All buttoned up with Blue Hylomar for extra sealant power. I did also clean up in the inside of of the bell-housing as much as possible, wire wheel and plastic pic/scraper. The outside is about 80% clean as well. Next is the new bronze guide pin, output seal and selector rod bushing. It was this plastic piece that sheared off and started this whole process.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0176_zpsnqemfzdo.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0176_zpsnqemfzdo.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0179_zpspasg1uva.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0179_zpspasg1uva.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0178_zps1wdhkux7.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0178_zps1wdhkux7.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0180_zpszs93nayd.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0180_zpszs93nayd.jpg.html)
-
Here is the AGA bronze clutch pin installed:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0188_zpsen19i7r7.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0188_zpsen19i7r7.jpg.html)
-
Another update and it has been very slow due to lots of traveling for work and then family time when I am home with the little ones. I plan on having it back on the road before the end of the year as I am not on vacation until 2017. Here are some shots of the prep and now installed tranny. Working on DSSR with UUC as the 215mm is too short and will probably need the 283mm from an e39 m5. Waiting on call back from Rob at UUC but in an old thread from SimonS which the same car, that is what he needed to do.
On to the pics:
new parts, output seals and bushing:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0191_zps1kgw4cwg.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0191_zps1kgw4cwg.jpg.html)
Seals installed, forgot to take on of trans output seal before installing the coupler:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0206_zpsfs2fuh5i.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0206_zpsfs2fuh5i.jpg.html)
Tranny installed, boy it was heavy to do it by yourself but I got it. I used new bellhousing bolts.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0247_zpsoyqzf4va.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0247_zpsoyqzf4va.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0246_zpsgdpuz60n.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0246_zpsgdpuz60n.jpg.html)
I now have the slave cylinder installed and starter in, just need to bolt it. I need to finish working on the DSSR but I have the EVO3 SSK installed. Clutch pedal has no bidding, now need the lever to test throws before turning it on.
-
Here is a picture of the SSK installed from the bottom including the DSSR and a shifter arm rear mount from BMW. The DSSR originally sent from UUC is too short. It is 215mm in length. I measured the original one and it has a longer length of ~274mm. UUC has an e39M m5 that is 273mm. SimonS back in the day stated you need this longer one. I spoke with Rob, we got it exchanged and all is good. What a solid feeling shifter. Also the throws are much nicer being short. Thanks UUC and for those m42 owners with the longer rod, use the e39 m5 one.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0258_zpszchk7mqf.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0258_zpszchk7mqf.jpg.html)
-
Great info, thanks for posting it. I had an older model UUC short shifter in my old E23, it was a really nice piece. Great feel, due to the truly high-quality materials they used.
-
While waiting for some new bolts for the driveshaft from the dealer, I decided to cleanup the 2 heat shields.
Here is the rear section which has some surface rust but overall for its age its in very good condition. I took a wire wheel to it and then painted it with a matt black spray paint from Rustoleum to help prevent more rust and it is designed for very high temps, I got it at Walmart.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0260_zpstdupmgp7.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0260_zpstdupmgp7.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0259_zpswlnmthhp.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0259_zpswlnmthhp.jpg.html)
Here is the larger shield cleaned. I forgot to take a picture of it before I started. Also, the sheild looks to have blotches but that is because it has just cleaned it and was still wet.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0262_zpsnakoohsw.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0262_zpsnakoohsw.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0265_zps8ir24c8x.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0265_zps8ir24c8x.jpg.html)
Here is the first piece painted with 2 coats. Will let it sit to cure. I will paint the other piece and post pics. I ran out of sun light due to some work on the e39. Its has a deeper black in person.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0269_zpsqhpbhcvz.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0269_zpsqhpbhcvz.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0268_zpshl2ea1fr.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0268_zpshl2ea1fr.jpg.html)
-
Here is the other piece painted: (My daughter's bike box with blue and pink gives a nice contrast, lol)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0271_zps6cummzke.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0271_zps6cummzke.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0270_zpslzqmnv0a.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0270_zpslzqmnv0a.jpg.html)
-
Once the heat shields were dried, I went to install the new driveshaft and realized the 4 knurled bolts at the rear end knuckle were not there. I had to order them from BMW and finally installed them on the knuckle and installed the driveshaft in the car for a test run before installing all the shields and exhaust.
Here are the new bolts. Hammered them in with a ratchet extension.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0282_zpsskhzh934.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0282_zpsskhzh934.jpg.html)
Bolts installed:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0285_zps7pwnknjb.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0285_zps7pwnknjb.jpg.html)
All shields installed with support bar and some new hardware as I was missing some or they were too corroded for my taste. The all black looks cleans it up a little.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0287_zpsubgupmxp.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0287_zpsubgupmxp.jpg.html)
I then have a few new parts for the exhaust installation. I cleaned up the hanger bracket, tranny bracket and installed new rubber mounts:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0291_zpsgnmb3bbl.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0291_zpsgnmb3bbl.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0290_zpsaolu1hsx.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0290_zpsaolu1hsx.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0288_zpsgeq7ipzb.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0288_zpsgeq7ipzb.jpg.html)
I then took here for a spin. Big smile on my face. No issues, shifts smoothly and the short throws are just amazing. But with a new clutch and the SS, it was like driving stick for the first time. My timing is off. The clutch engages so close to the top like a new car and I have been use to it engaging midway to all the way down. Also, it has been a year since I drove her an only about 2 weeks worth of manual with rentals in Europe. I will keep driving it and maybe look into a clutch stop, who knows. Just glad to have the car back on the road. Need to finish the tranny protection plate install and a good car wash and she is 100% complete for this project.
-
Driving the car is awesome. But with the new soft pedal and quick engagement, I decided to get a clutch stop. With UUC being so great with me recently and having a credit, I decided to get the v3 Big Boy clutch stop. I got it got it today and its beefy. I have installed and and so far it seems great preventing the longer throw of the clutch pedal. I might adjusted it 1 or 2 more times to dial it in but already feel the difference in its current setting. Here are some pics of it as it arrived and after the install. It is much bigger compared to the old one which is just a little bigger than a quarter.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0293_zpsx1r0qosk.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0293_zpsx1r0qosk.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0295_zpscvp3b65k.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0295_zpscvp3b65k.jpg.html)
-
Finally got back from a work trip and received my new hardware to install the BMW e30 transmission protection plate. The plate is really for an m20 as the O2 sensor does hit the plate. I had to develop a bracket to lower it enough, about 1.5 inches so that it would strike the O2 sensor. Maybein the future if something changes with the exhaust, I will put the O2 in a different area.
Here is the OEM plate, still available and not that expensive:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0292_zpspka2xjls.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0292_zpspka2xjls.jpg.html)
Here is all the hardware which I had to guess and figure out in the ETK. I ended up using the goldish flower looking nuts as the blind rivets wouldn't really stay in place. Was afraid it would eventually fall. I wanted to make the install of the plate in way that it would be easy to remove in needed for any repairs. I couldn't find any instructions or part numbers for the install so I made by own using the parts that look to be used by BMW. The rear section is just more square nuts the fit in the slots just like the rear tranny mounting brace. I had to drill out the holes with a dremel to widen it for these nuts. Bolts and washers worked great. If anyone would like blind rivets, let me know. If they would have expanded, it would have been the best. Other option is the thread the whole for an m11 or m12 short bolt. I can supply PNs if needed.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0301_zps2xivxyur.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0301_zps2xivxyur.jpg.html)
Here are a few shots of it installed, and no issues or vibration noises after a few runs. You can see the straight place that I used to mount the rear passenger side. It does look to sit lower but it is at the lever of the 2 small rubber mounts under the tranny that has the bracket that clamps onto the exhaust. Better view of it in the 2nd picture.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0306_zpsnsby1e32.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0306_zpsnsby1e32.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0303_zpswr8j5a4b.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0303_zpswr8j5a4b.jpg.html)
-
I was getting a little water in the trunk in the bottom area of where the car jack. I found the culprit to be the rubber grommets for the rear side marker lights were cracked and allowing some water in. While fixing that as I can't get new ones unless I order e30 M3 rear side markers, I decided to order some new seam sealer as I found the original cracked, common fault on the e30 and water has seaped through and rusted out a small section above the rear lights. I did a quick repair with Rust Bullet, I heard its better that POR-15. I did the repair on the both side, and also replaced the trunk gasket as it is 10 years old and back then I sent with the URO brand. I know better now and went with BMW. Right now all is sealed perfect after a test of running water with a hose for over 5 minutes while I was in the trunk with a flashlight. I will touch up the silver paint with the red top coat when I have the car painted.
Here is the grommet I mentioned. I used an RTV sealant to plug the grommet for now. Worked well and would recommend all e30 owners to do so.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_0326_zpsdtagrhdl.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_0326_zpsdtagrhdl.jpg.html)
Here are the before:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0331_zpsqjlwkw8t.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0331_zpsqjlwkw8t.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0330_zpsyxxskqvx.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0330_zpsyxxskqvx.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0329_zpswwxvjoax.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0329_zpswwxvjoax.jpg.html)
Here are the after:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0333_zpsvezqryaf.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0333_zpsvezqryaf.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0332_zpsee6ze5gx.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0332_zpsee6ze5gx.jpg.html)
I found a small patch on the inside of the rear license place light. Will touch that up when I touch up some spare tire wheel well on the e39 in 2 weeks.
-
I received the 3M seam sealer today and the main reason I went with it, it is clear in color. Basically used to seal the cracks until I get the car painted. It worked great and will hold me off. Highly recommend it and just make sure the bead is thick enough which is hard to gauge with it being clear. I offered to help my dad with his e28 which has a humid trunk. He probably needs all new gaskets. If you are local to me, you are more than happy to take some.
Pic of seam sealer:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0336_zpsyz9va1kv.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0336_zpsyz9va1kv.jpg.html)
The before shots and you can surely see the cracks in the seam sealer.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0335_zpsa7tafifn.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0335_zpsa7tafifn.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0334_zps1uezpgnb.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0334_zps1uezpgnb.jpg.html)
Here is a pic of sealer applied. Dries in under an hour and can be painted in 40 minutes per instructions.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0337_zpsudllqhdy.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0337_zpsudllqhdy.jpg.html)
-
Received my new gift, a programmable wiper module from Innovative Goods who is on the forums on R3Vlimited.
Here is the link to the product:
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=400403 (http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=400403)
I remove the old one, removed the cover to it, added it it to the new module and works like a charm. Now I can program my delay in seconds in the lowest speed. Also a nice feature is when you activate the washer pump, it sprays before it begins to swipe and there is are 2 clean swipes a few seconds later after the washer stops pumping fluid on the windshield.
Here are the pics of the module and it with the cover with the old one next to it.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/washer/IMG_0338_zps40ghjfua.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/washer/IMG_0338_zps40ghjfua.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/washer/IMG_0340_zps60qcsfom.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/washer/IMG_0340_zps60qcsfom.jpg.html)
-
Hey everyone, just another quick update. I decide to overhaul my instrument gauge cluster. Something I started about 9 years ago, I finally completed. The SI board was bad when I bought the car and had it swapped Programa, which is probably the most popular company for the repairs is located near my home town so I get lucky with quick turn arounds for a replacement board. Also, when I bought the car, I knew I would overhaul the cluster so I bought a use cluster off the forums and decided to make my own extension cables. My plan was to place the cluster on top of dashboard for any testing to then fix things quickly before installing it back into the dashboard. I unsoldered the AMP terminations from the borrowed cluster to make 10-12" extensions. I used the same pin out at my m42 so this might not work on other e30 cars. Also, the m42 came with Motometer clusters, not the common VDO ones.
Well the SI board went bad again and needed to swap it out. I took this time to finish the pigtails and overhaul the cluster.
Here is a picture of the pigtails. I will take some of them installed in the near future.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0375_zpsmsxazh3k.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0375_zpsmsxazh3k.jpg.html)
I have also tested a few LED bulbs and have found everyone one to swap out in all the correct colors from SuperBrightLEDs.com. I just placed the order and hope to have the cluster hooked up this weekend. I also cleaned the gauge faces and repainted the needles red as I had paint smears from the first time. Novice mistakes.
I was thinking of renting this cables even though they will be limited or maybe even sell them.
-
While waiting for my LED bulbs to arrive, I got the case of the cluster and decided to try something. I have the ColorBond BMW black for interior pieces and wanted to see what if the inside of the cluster was black instead of the gray. Here is a picture of the two. I am leaning towards the black. It seems to pop out the black of the gauges and the red needles.
The fuel and temp needles are not done at this point. Also, the LEDs should stand out more this way.
Which one do you like? I still would move the trim rings over.
Original (Gray)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0376_zpschmk7ctu.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0376_zpschmk7ctu.jpg.html)
New (Black)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0377_zpsoa3rzekj.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0377_zpsoa3rzekj.jpg.html)
-
Here is the black cluster with 2 of the rings. I will be going with the black version and now deciding to get black satin rings or keep these aluminum ones.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0378_zpsemkemled.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0378_zpsemkemled.jpg.html)
-
In the end, decided to go with the black refreshed cluster and then went with some satin black clusters rings. While the aluminum had a nice contrast, it didnt match the stainless steel color of the shifter/ebrake and I rather a more less subtle contrast to match closer to stock. The satin rings just do it right. I have all the LEDS in and working and hope to post a picture of it when it is all installed.
Here is a before and after:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0386_zpstl5usxvz.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0386_zpstl5usxvz.jpg.html)
After:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0388_zpsms8u8lgf.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0388_zpsms8u8lgf.jpg.html)
-
IMHO you made the right choice on the color combo, although every choice was tasteful/somber enough that it would have worked. I wasn't familiar with two different shades in the clusters, was that OEM BMW or aftermarket? Either way, I like it.
Those trim rings certainly modernize & refresh the relatively old-fashioned E30 cluster. It's a subtle difference...only an expert would notice...but it's apparent every time you drive!
-
Thanks Dave. I wasn't familiar with two shades but others chimed in other forums that the gray is OEM it just faded a little over time. It was never this deep of a black. This is what I figured and either way, the black freshens it up as you stated and makes it nice looking with the amber glow of the bright LEDs.
-
Here is a picture of the cluster with the light on at night. Used phone this time. The glow in the MGP gauge is nice at night due to the strength of the bulbs but more subtle in person.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/20171013_212254_zpstiqckev5.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/20171013_212254_zpstiqckev5.jpg.html)
Here is picture of all the lights showing the LED colors. The turn signal greens are blinding, that is for sure. I still need the gas to go down to the reserve to kick in the amber low fuel light. Other than that, all is working as it should. I do recommend this update. The camera is not the best to get the lower lights nice and I wasn't going to play with filters to get it nice. I can show it to anyone in person if they like...lol.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/20171013_214129_zps9h3yj3zu.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/20171013_214129_zps9h3yj3zu.jpg.html)
-
Small update. I installed a Mtech1 steering wheel. My dad had a 87 635csi in the mid 90s and my sister wrecked it. But right before that happened, he had bought a brand new steering wheel. I am guessing about $200 at the time. He has had it in storage for over 15 years since we parted the car in his work warehouse not covered. It was covered in dust and wood shavings as it is a freight forwarding company. The heat was also not good for it. I asked to borrow it until I get an mtech2 version as he forgot about it. I told him it needs to go into his e28 535i when I am done with it. It was so bad that I had to give it a good cleaning as it was very tacky. Took horn pads apart to give the rubber a cleaning and then applied Leatherique oil and clean to revive the leather. It is night and day but I need to give it another pass in a few weeks as some areas have a dry patch. Here is the pic of it installed. I had to use two 5/8 lock washers from home depot in the meantime until I can get the proper spacer from BMW as combined, they meet the same 14mm as the BMW spacer. I have the PN but I want to try on getting a thinner spacer. I want the gap between the wheel and column to be smaller. The stalks on the side are so much closer and cool but still need to get use to it or can always try to get non-airbag switches as worst case.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0393_zps3evxbdko.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0393_zps3evxbdko.jpg.html)
-
That's looking great! Your idea about shimming the E28 wheel slightly is also a really good idea...even with the proper spacers there is always a fairly large gap at the clamshell housings.
I swapped in some non-airbag stalks when I fitted the three-spoke 'sport' wheel on mine, it's an easy fix. I've had a little trouble finding decent switches recently, I worry that E30 parts are drying up. You can also use E23, E28 & late model E24 parts, they're more or less the same parts, just minor detail differences.
-
Little update. I bought a LED bulb for my 3rd brake light like I have on my e39. I also installed the George Graves voltmeter SI light replacement that I bought over 2 years ago. It works like a charm, and tells me my voltage and I can see my issue that unless I rev the car to 3k RPM, the alternator does not kick in via the excite wire. My research states its an internal fault or voltage regulator. I just got my Bosch VR and will install it later this week. But another thing that looks to be fixed is my Brake Lining light. It always flickers and after research 5 years ago, and with the cluster out, I took a crack at it, no pun intended. There is a resistor on the back of the main cluster board that over time due to heat, will have the solder points crack. Sure enough they were and resistor was rocking on the pins/solder. Added a little solder and now its solid. Now when car is powered on, the light is quiet as a mouse. I still need to drive it to see how it works with movement and vibration but confident it should be fine.
Here is a pic of the LED bulb from SuperBrightLEDS.com.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0400_zpslbep774a.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0400_zpslbep774a.jpg.html)
-
I got my steering wheel spacers. I found out in the ETK there is a smaller ring on the end, towards the firewall that looks smaller. I receive it and sure enough, same diameter but 7mm in length, not 14mm. Its half in size. So instead of having a ~1/2 inch gap from column to steering wheel, it is much closer, about 1/4 now. The switches are closer and will still have to get use to it but if I dont like, it, I have the standard 14mm spacer to swap in.
The smaller one is on the right. Left is the standard one we all get. If I use both 14mm spacers, it brings it back to airbag oem distance but the gap is insanely huge.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0401_zpsdeg9i0uq.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0401_zpsdeg9i0uq.jpg.html)
Here is picture with no spacer:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/pic_zpsjg1j73dn.jpeg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/pic_zpsjg1j73dn.jpeg.html)
Here is the picture with the 7mm ring:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0407_zpsa9mz0i2l.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0407_zpsa9mz0i2l.jpg.html)
I also fixed my exicter wire issue. I decide to replace the voltage regulator and glad I did, because the brushes were all wasted. I know bet 14.1 instead of 13.6. This still didnt fix my issue on the exciter circuit. I did more research and decided to put the regular bulb back in because the LEDs work at 3v or less. Sure enough, that was it. I know have it working just fine and this is the only bulb I was not able to swap out with an LED.
Here is a picture of the old and new VR. I went with a Bosch new unit and I replaced it with everything still mounted in the car. Very easy job. I have done some in the past on other cars.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG_0408_zpsfvyjqwrb.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/engine/IMG_0408_zpsfvyjqwrb.jpg.html)
-
Another update. I have some rust pitting on my trunk lid, so I grinded it out, and then treated it with an epoxy primer and then bought a can of factory color in a spray can from paintsratch.com. Then applied 3 coats of clear. Nothing professionally looking but it covers the white keeps it going until I paint my car. But with with leftover product, I decide to primer my tow hook and rear strut bar, which was unfinished. Here are a few pictures.
Primer:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/20171215_122333_zpsb6vuekhg.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/20171215_122333_zpsb6vuekhg.jpg.html)
Here is the bar painted with 3 coats of paint and 3 of clear:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_0422_zps5tqzjelp.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_0422_zps5tqzjelp.jpg.html)
Here is it installed. Sound system is a mess because I am changing the configuration:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_0423_zpspmcelog7.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_0423_zpspmcelog7.jpg.html)
-
A few more updates.
Here is the tow hook painted and cleared in body color, after the fast etch and primer. Also a picture of it installed. Matches rear strut bar nicely.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_0438_zpsmjwkufwu.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_0438_zpsmjwkufwu.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_0440_zpsbx7h4cb9.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_0440_zpsbx7h4cb9.jpg.html)
With extra paint, I painted the front IS lip spoiler that I have owned new for over 5 years. I also installed the Ryan G splitter that I bought at that time. I also installed new clips to hold the lip plus a tow hook cover.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_0436_zps6ltroyxe.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_0436_zps6ltroyxe.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_0434_zpsacsrqcws.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_0434_zpsacsrqcws.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_0427_zpsvrkibwvl.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_0427_zpsvrkibwvl.jpg.html)
Here is a picture of it installed. Exterior needs more work, parts and paint.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_20171228_162719_01_zpserfwmnkt.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_20171228_162719_01_zpserfwmnkt.jpg.html)
I also got my 2nd rim, 16x7.5 e28 m5 wheel. It looks like they were going to refinish it as the paint was stripped. 2 more to find and don't want to buy them new.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_0442_zpse2uezvn0.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_0442_zpse2uezvn0.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_0441_zps6bleiigx.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_0441_zps6bleiigx.jpg.html)
-
My OEM glovebox flashlight was getting worst and worst on light output. I found a DYI for replace the button batteries with a AAA version that home phone uses. This was done in Europe so sourcing US equivalent parts took a week to find but I got it. I opened it up and little by little solder in the new components and boy is it bright. The bulb is yellow but its has a bright white output around 5700K color.
Here is a picture of the insides:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0443_zpsqggyeqhf.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0443_zpsqggyeqhf.jpg.html)
Any one here going to the Vintage in NC? I registered on 1/1 and this will be my first time.
-
Getting back to the e30 m3 suspension installation. It's time for the rears. I have rebuilt the used calipers after having them powder coated in gloss black to match the front. Rebuilt with new ATE seals and cleaned up the piston with #0000 steel wool and some CRC brake clean. They were much easier than the fronts. I now have all the main parts to start on the rear. AKG subframe bushings, as well as AKG rear TA bushings. I have new AKG rear show months, Porterfield rs-4 brake pads and new Balo rotors. Will see how the diff is. I do have new seals and fluid for it. Waiting for some new jack stands to do this inside my garage, instead of in the driveway.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Brakes/IMG_0445_zpsoxuaybui.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Brakes/IMG_0445_zpsoxuaybui.jpg.html)
-
Finally got to install something I have head for a few years in my hoarding days. I had bought a driver side euro mirror that includes the outer wide angle strip for better visibility. Here is a picture of my original one on the left which was basically useless. The new one is on the right with the box above. I believe they can still be purchased for about $40. I think I paid $20 as it was like 5-6 years ago. There is no wide angle for the passenger side. I did also buy a perfect used wide angle mirror with the heating element. I wanted to use it but my car is not pre-wired for it, got to love the base m42 cars. I will be selling it, but need to figure out how much. If interested, let me know.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_0450_zpsngnvgykj.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_0450_zpsngnvgykj.jpg.html)
-
Received my MarkD 93 octane chip. Installed and noticed a smoother idle, more power in the mid range and overall a great decision.
Here is a pic of the chip prior to installation.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/engine/IMG_0452_zpsyidtz6b3.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/engine/IMG_0452_zpsyidtz6b3.jpg.html)
-
After having my front german license plate for 18 years and its probably older as I came from previous owner, I decided to get a new one from z-plates. Came quickly and looks great. Just getting the car prepped for the Vintage.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_0453_zpskj7l8hiq.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_0453_zpskj7l8hiq.jpg.html)
-
More prep for the Vintage, finally getting to finish my front seats to match the rears with mtech fabric and micro suede bolters. I first needed to clean up the rails on the passenger seat. A good wire wheel and then a few coats for SEM trim paint to make it look new. Here is one side done and the other still to go. Passenger seat rails are still in much better condition compared to the driver seat.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0455_zpsqgqhyepx.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0455_zpsqgqhyepx.jpg.html)
-
More prepping for the Vintage. I started on the rear end rebuild and got all the brake items removed. Next is to remove the diff/subframe.
I basically finished the passenger seat after all these years. Life and kids came in right after I finished the rear seat. I still need to prep and and paint the hinge covers and levers to recline seat forward for backseat entrance. Seat should go in this week so I can start the same on the driver side.
Here are the rails and even the rod(freshly painted with SEM) ready for the bottom seat. I decided to paint bar to remove the metal finish which showed a little oxidation.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0457_zpso8l5tnad.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0457_zpso8l5tnad.jpg.html)
Here is a freshly painted side molding. My original had 2 small cracks so I took it from donor seat. I want to get new stickers but having a hard time finding PNs. Might be NLA and only using reproductions is the way to go. Used SEM prep soap and then the BMW black color from Colorbond.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/5c0d30d5-7968-4fe1-b91d-8aa090e1cbbb_zpsaaf1ycei.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/5c0d30d5-7968-4fe1-b91d-8aa090e1cbbb_zpsaaf1ycei.jpg.html)
Here is the bottom put together with the molding, hinge and rail. I installed 4 brand new shocks.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0462_zpsdhljfhdb.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0462_zpsdhljfhdb.jpg.html)
Here is the final view before the trim pieces get installed. Took picture at a weird angle it seems.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0461_zpsz0xs8ryd.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0461_zpsz0xs8ryd.jpg.html)
I need to rebuild seat belt receptacle or will buy a new one from BMW.
-
Here is the seat installed. Waiting for a new seatbelt receptacle from BMW and waiting for some more suede material to recover the rear panel and change the vinyl.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/20180222_220155_zpsiap0jotq.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/20180222_220155_zpsiap0jotq.jpg.html)
-
wow, the difference is night and day compared to the drivers seat!
looks super nice!
-
Got a few parts today to complete the passenger seat. New screws for the back panel and the seatbelt receptacle. BMW only makes it with the electrical connector. Not needed on the passenger side.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0464_zpsxjxwr9uh.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0464_zpsxjxwr9uh.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0465_zpshiavgbtv.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0465_zpshiavgbtv.jpg.html)
-
Got the subframe removed today. Very happy that the subframe bushings did not get fused to body like last time. It has been about 10 years since replaced. While I prep to move the items over to the e30 m3 subframe, I decided to get shocks mounted up with the new AKG poly rear shock mounts. Very nice quality and used a BMW supplied gasket. It of course is not a BMW made product but Elring which can be obtained via the aftermarket world. But its a nice to know for next time and that BMW trusts this brand. I know this is the sought after brand for gaskets but sometimes hard to obtain. Victor Reinz and can't remember the other common brands are crap.
Here is the mount and new gasket.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_0468_zpsyw1vsz4x.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_0468_zpsyw1vsz4x.jpg.html)
Here it is installed.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_0469_zpsesjf4zuv.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_0469_zpsesjf4zuv.jpg.html)
Gave the shock and protector a new cleaning and both are now installed ready for subframe. The old version were Meyle HD and they had some good deep cracks on the bottom side. Nothing where it was loose but it would get there sooner than later. Got a good ~10 years out of them.
Moving on to subframe mounts.
-
Here is a picture of the e30 m3 subframe. From what I can tell, the only difference besides the PN and cost, is that there is an extra bracket for what looks to be an exhaust hanger. You can see it in the picture and it is very close to where the diff mounts. I am going to use this part as well because the owner that I bought it, had installed the tabs from AKG to slot the TA bushings to allow for toe and camber adjustment with BMW OE bolts.
Aerial view of subframe, you can see the AKG subframe bushings. I went with the softest option. Left shows top of bushing exposes and right has the washer on top.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_0470_zpsbpmsswkn.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_0470_zpsbpmsswkn.jpg.html)
Here is a closeup of the bushing and you can see the tabs that were welded on with the slotted hole.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_0471_zpsyylmmufn.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_0471_zpsyylmmufn.jpg.html)
AKG rtabs with the eccentric bolt through it. The inside of the poly bushings have grooves to apply grease to keep things quiet. I will add ATE plastilube.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_0472_zpse9efdxjw.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_0472_zpse9efdxjw.jpg.html)
-
Currently working on cleaning the diff now that it is out of the care. Also, one TA has the new bushings installed, need to to the passenger side. I also just got new sway bar links as my current ones are 7 years old. Also got AKG rear tow hooks.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_0483_zpsvb0qyf5l.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_0483_zpsvb0qyf5l.jpg.html)
-
getting closer to putting it back together.
Using AKG tool removing OEM rubber ones from these e30 m3 rear TAs. The rubber even has the BMW logo
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_0485_zpszkpnrvav.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_0485_zpszkpnrvav.jpg.html)
Got all the rtabs installed.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_0484_zpsso4muhw4.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_0484_zpsso4muhw4.jpg.html)
Here is one of the ta arms installed with the eccentric bolts. I tighten them in the middle, to match stock. Will get a 4 wheel alignment when its all back on.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_0487_zpsq3ltr8e8.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_0487_zpsq3ltr8e8.jpg.html)
I then decided to replace the rear brake valve T. They call the this the proportioning valve but it is just a T. Single line goes int from the front of the car and then exits out to both rear calipers. Here it is and for $15 dollars new, I decided to do it while I was in there.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Brakes/IMG_0491_zpscspqwyic.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Brakes/IMG_0491_zpscspqwyic.jpg.html)
The brake fittings has surface rust but nothing major. Key to removed for any of these fitting, flare nut wrenches to prevent stripping. Also lots for grim due to 27 years of use.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Brakes/IMG_0490_zps7mxxm3x6.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Brakes/IMG_0490_zps7mxxm3x6.jpg.html)
Here it is installed but need to get a new mounting bolt. The old one is too rusty for my taste.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Brakes/IMG_0493_zpsivlpt9ep.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Brakes/IMG_0493_zpsivlpt9ep.jpg.html)
-
Ready to install the subframe. Here are all the new parts to make it happen.The original parts just has a little too much surface rust. The subframe bolt and nut are recommended to replace with new ones.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_0494_zpso1i3vh90.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_0494_zpso1i3vh90.jpg.html)
I got it installed. One thing to note, if you are using the AKG bushings, and the eccentric slots and bolts, you need to take a small slice from the top of the bushing and washer to fit a 18mm wrench to adjust. I notice they were touching during the install and then reading online confirmed what I did. I will take a picture of it.
-
Got the driver rear side button up with the brakes. I got the ebrake items installed. I also installed a new rotor with the rebuilt powder coated rear e30m3 brakes to match the front in gloss black. I also added the Porterfields brake pads as well to match the front. Here is a picture of it installed. Just need to bleed it after I do the other side.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Brakes/IMG_0500_zps0abdgkdn.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Brakes/IMG_0500_zps0abdgkdn.jpg.html)
Here is another angle. You can see the UUC brake lines after a good cleaning as well as the AKG tow hook.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Brakes/IMG_0501_zpssgdcddh1.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Brakes/IMG_0501_zpssgdcddh1.jpg.html)
-
In preparation for the e28 m5 wheels, I got BMW wheel locks.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_0519_zpsm76hmzfg.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_0519_zpsm76hmzfg.jpg.html)
I started to clean my diff. Here are a few pictures of almost 30 years of grim on the original part.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0518_zpsckzbdg34.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0518_zpsckzbdg34.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0517_zpssd68gkdb.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0517_zpssd68gkdb.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0516_zpsdg36ub9m.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0516_zpsdg36ub9m.jpg.html)
I just ordered a stud kit from Condor Speed Shop as they are somewhat local to me.
I then replaced the rear diff speed sensor plug. The clips were brittle and one side broke while removing it. The other side was already broken, not sure when that happened.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0505_zpse6sju54w.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0505_zpse6sju54w.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0513_zpsj2lsbwvy.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0513_zpsj2lsbwvy.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0515_zps9f8bklwd.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0515_zps9f8bklwd.jpg.html)
Finished the passenger rear side. Got the ebrake installed and all the calipers. New brake lining sensor and making sure clips to hold all the wiring and cables are in place. I also installed the anti-rattle clip as I had forgot on the driver side. Both sides have been bled with Motul 600 brake fluid.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Brakes/IMG_0507_zpspjuqhjkq.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Brakes/IMG_0507_zpspjuqhjkq.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Brakes/IMG_0506_zpsn9pnyyoo.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Brakes/IMG_0506_zpsn9pnyyoo.jpg.html)
I installed new Lemforder sway bar links with new hardware from BMW. Even got new white clips for the ebrake cable. Little soapy water got the links on the swaybar.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_0510_zpsbthh14hu.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_0510_zpsbthh14hu.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_0508_zpsrrp3vddq.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_0508_zpsrrp3vddq.jpg.html)
Just need the differ installed plus exhaust and then its time for test drive. Still need to get tires and need to figure out if I will go with 215s or 225s.
-
I finished cleaning the rear diff. I prefer doing a better job but since I will be rebuilding it in the near future, I will give it a better cleaning then. I remove all the heavy grease with a degreaser and wire wheel. At least you can touch it without getting you hands dirty. At least the BMW test is clearly visible today.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0524_zpsbwjwkek7.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0524_zpsbwjwkek7.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0525_zpsogikxezd.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0525_zpsogikxezd.jpg.html)
Here are the internals, nothing loose or shavings on the bottom. The paper gasket was all wasted.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0521_zpseo2qdqa9.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0521_zpseo2qdqa9.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0520_zpsu2tdjwrx.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0520_zpsu2tdjwrx.jpg.html)
A few new parts, new speed sensor, oring and plug washers and all toque to specs:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0522_zpsgbrivuma.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0522_zpsgbrivuma.jpg.html)
Final product:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0523_zpsfpzihrgi.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0523_zpsfpzihrgi.jpg.html)
-
Got the diff stud kit from Condor. I wish the socket for the allen key was metric, I don't have standard and had to use an allen key. Already installed on diff and will try to install diff when I get home from work.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0532_zpsf0ezlemt.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0532_zpsf0ezlemt.jpg.html)
-
I got back today from a business trip and some parts came in so I can finish the car and get it back on the road officially. I already took it out for a short drive around the block but the exhaust is not installed. I plan on bleeding all 4 corners in the morning and will install these, abs wiring holder that goes on the subframe. The current subframe doesn't have them and the original ones are very brittle.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_0533_zpspkxomupe.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_0533_zpspkxomupe.jpg.html)
I also received one of the caps for the e28 m5 wheel. They are pricey so I got 1 for now. I am still looking for 2 used wheels and 3 caps. Will work the 16x7.5 e28 wheels in the front and the 16x8 e32 style 5s in the rear for now.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_0534_zpsm4nngiyy.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_0534_zpsm4nngiyy.jpg.html)
Here is the wheel installed, showing the BMW wheel lock.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_0535_zpss8itdktb.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_0535_zpss8itdktb.jpg.html)
Here is the cap installed. Will be keeping the stock tool from the 14" wheels as they both use this tool.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_0536_zpslg9kljkp.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_0536_zpslg9kljkp.jpg.html)
I then got BMW air valve caps. They are only $1 and has a nice grip material plus a o-ring on the inside to seal the connection.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_0537_zps8caau6o9.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_0537_zps8caau6o9.jpg.html)
[The issue now is that the stems have a long thread and the caps are not that long. This is how they come new from BMW. Here is picture from ECS tuning to show the gold threads exposed:
(https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/107345_x800.jpg) (https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/107345_x800.jpg.html)
I don't like this, so I got black heat shrink tube to fill in the gap. Here is one example:
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Suspension/IMG_0538_zpsuniuxzed.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Suspension/IMG_0538_zpsuniuxzed.jpg.html)
The goal is to refinish the wheel with nogaro silver like this. The e30 came with 27mm offset and the ones I am using are 20mm.
(https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/617214_x800.jpg) (https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/617214_x800.jpg.html)
-
A few quick updates. After getting it all back on the road, the diff whine did not go away and requires a rebuild. I was going to venture on this myself as a kit is ~$500, but with the limited time to make it to the Vintage, I decided to have someone else do it, for a few hundred dollars more for the labor with years of experience. It will be total rebuild and I am slated to receive it for the install about 8 days before I take off for NC. I should get a few hundred break-in miles before the long trip.
In the meantime, doing some buffing of the single stage red for a little shine for the show. Will post a picture when done. Literally like putting lipstick on a pig but its better than the faded pink color. I also decided to clean one more thing in the trunk. The clasp that holds the car jack is all metal in the zinc plating is no more. The same with the the large washer that holds the spare tire. Here is a picture of it after some fast etch, SEM Prep, and SEM trim paint. I am waiting for gray scuff pads to do the same on the plastic knob with SEM Soap.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0551_zpsxlvndqjf.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0551_zpsxlvndqjf.jpg.html)
One thing that came up is that I need a spare tire, now that I only have the 5-lug setup. The e30 doesn't have a big opening in the trunk, so I need to find something that is narrow. I took measurements and will need to go with a 195 tire, like stock. The 205 tire will cut it too close. I don't want the rug to bulge. Luckily my dad has a spare 15x7 from an e32, style 7 with the cap. Its width is 7" and I can go with a 195/60 or 195/55 tire. I will be going with the /60 so that the height of the tire is the same as my current setup, just won't be as wide. Who cares, its a spare. The style also comes in the same vicinity as with the current euro weave pattern. Center cap is hideous.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/162662532_bmw-e34-e32-15x7-style-7-alloy-wheels-89-95-525i-530i-_zpsikh4hx9h.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/162662532_bmw-e34-e32-15x7-style-7-alloy-wheels-89-95-525i-530i-_zpsikh4hx9h.jpg.html)
-
Got the diff back from Agent and his father in law Mark. Things a beauty. It got a rebuild including the REM polishing. Here is the diff returned with a nice fresh paint coat. You can also see the Condor stud kit as well. Hope to have the car on the road Wed night. Just need to install it and add a quart of Redline oil.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0553_zps4pqk7gvr.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0553_zps4pqk7gvr.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0552_zpsajnr8swm.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0552_zpsajnr8swm.jpg.html)
Here is picture of the internals as is and then after the REM polish.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/14884_zpsnhcdfhdx.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/14884_zpsnhcdfhdx.jpg.html)
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/14886_zpskkw6lejg.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/14886_zpskkw6lejg.jpg.html)
-
Looking real nice! Quick turn on the diff, they have one in stock or is that your same unit?
-
Same unit. Luckily I am just a few states away in the same time zone, FL - VA. I got it mounted last night. Will do the exhaust tonight to take her for a spin.
-
Whine is GONE!!!!! So good to drive a quiet car inside the cabin. Dealt with it for about 2 years. Even the exhaust is on the quiet side. Here is a quick (and bad) shot of it installed.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0560_zpsgjbl491g.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0560_zpsgjbl491g.jpg.html)
I also finished the plastic treatment for the jack holder knob. Here are the 3 items installed.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/interior/IMG_0561_zpsg1pocw3d.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/interior/IMG_0561_zpsg1pocw3d.jpg.html)
-
Took the DA and some extra rubbing compound to shine her up before leaving to the Vintage. Better that the current hazy red look.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/20180516_233233_zpsn0fc8own.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/20180516_233233_zpsn0fc8own.jpg.html)
-
After my 2k mile trip for the vintage, I notice with the extra weight in the trunk and bumps on the road, I was getting a little rubbing at the rear fenders with the 215 tires. Not sure why BMW did this, but the rear fenders are rolled only half the way and the front half is at 90 degrees. On the trip, I ordered the Eastwood fender roller as for its price, had the best review. I received it and just today after 2 hours with a heat gun, the full arch is rolled and no more rubbing over bumps. Here is a picture of the machine. I will be renting it out through my rental website to fellow enthusiasts.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/exterior/IMG_0562_zpsoppfcfh2.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/exterior/IMG_0562_zpsoppfcfh2.jpg.html)
-
So after driving a bunch of miles with the new rear end, it am still getting a small clunk when I put it in gear from the rear. The only thing I didn't replace was the diff mount. I have a BMW made mz3 solid rubber one but it has 12 years and ~120k miles on it. Since I went the AKG path, I got one for for the diff. I just to the old one pressed out and new one in. I also got the rear aligned at a shop to get it back in spec as much as possible with the adjustable TABs.
(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w276/monty23psk/318is/Driveline/IMG_0563_zps79olo7uo.jpg) (http://s178.photobucket.com/user/monty23psk/media/318is/Driveline/IMG_0563_zps79olo7uo.jpg.html)
-
Realized I had updated my r3vlimited thread but not this one from April 2019.
Hey everyone, been awhile. Since my last update, our 3rd child was born so car has just been sitting there with minor use or work. In preparation for the 2019 Vintage, I am starting up again. I sent in cluster to Bavarian Restoration to restore the instrument cluster as my SI board is bad, and I have a battery drain. I also have a sporadic speedo/mpg gauge and it all points to the instrument cluster. I got it back and here is a picture of it. I also has order some years ago a new trim piece that goes below and new screws from BMW. I painted the bezel when I painted the cluster face. Bavarian also added a speedo calibration tool, which is the cable you see at the bottom. I will use my phone's GPS to calibrate the speed.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/7908/33722775398_7262112915_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/TnY3f3) (https://flic.kr/p/TnY3f3) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/165203321@N07/)
The car is on jack stands, as I am also upgrading my diff to a 3.73 LSD. Agent, on this board, is helping me with it. They rebuilt my 4.10 open diff.
-
I decided to change my spare tire as I needed a 6.5 wide rim so that the tire did not bump up the trunk carpet. I found out that the e34 spare tire, is a steelie with the right width. I found one pretty much never used and swapped the tire.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/7858/46692337325_8a55db2028_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2e93r9H) (https://flic.kr/p/2e93r9H)
-
Nothing really to update as just driving it on occasion and gathering more parts. But I noticed my Photobucket pics are not working. If you click on them, they will load and maybe if I have time, I will update them all to another site.
Happy new year all!
-
This thread continues to amaze!
If you find a decent alternative to PB, LMK. Imgur has good reviews but didn't 'feel' right for me.
-
Flickr seems to work just fine for me and any of the new photos.
-
A small quarantine update. I have notice that my battery is not holding a charger after 48 hours. I only have a 43mA draw with everything connected, so I know I am within specs. But batter is now 2 years old and lower Bosch model. I would love a yellow top from Optima, H6 model but $ and while I know I can get a replacement at no cost at Pepboys, I decided to try using a battery tender. I will be out of town for a few weeks so just have the battery topped off is not a bad idea. After many night doing reading reviews, I settled on the CTECK MXS 5.0. All the top brand vehicles owner use them and even Jay Leno raved about them. I got it from Amazon installed it. With trunk in the rear, and the trunk organizer, I want to leave the lead connected all the time. This model has the plug which is fused and it has a cover to prevent anything touching the contacts. Nice quality. They also sell a 25ft extension which I might use if I want to mount the tender to the wall. I ran the connecter through the small hole int he carpet trim that is used to access the fuel door lock release.
Here is the device:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50003692806_cc8b7fea5e_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jbDZLA)20200613_224614 (https://flic.kr/p/2jbDZLA) by Alexander Montoya (https://www.flickr.com/photos/165203321@N07/), on Flickr
Here is trunk organizer moved out of the way to show the connector lead connect to the tender:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50003954397_f68cd9583e_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jbFkwM)20200613_225006 (https://flic.kr/p/2jbFkwM) by Alexander Montoya (https://www.flickr.com/photos/165203321@N07/), on Flickr
-
These ctek tenders are great, I use one on mine every winter.
-
I'll check out the CTEK, my current unit isn't cutting the mustard. I usually use the cheap HF solar unit, but I only get a few years out of them.
-
I found out something yesterday. Today, BMW sells a charger, it looks to be a rebranded CTEK version. So besides reading Porsche and Corvette owners use it, BMW just outright sells it. Just the back and device says BMW. Save yourself $ and get it from Amazon, ~$40 savings.
(https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/830262_x800.jpg)
-
Decided to refresh all the fuses after getting my battery tender. I ordered fuses from BMW. I had some from ECS and can confirm that BMW are the same. BMW originally used Pudenz branded fuses and this company has been bought by Littelfuse. They are branded Littefuse. I went with BMW as they were cheaper with my contact and are exactly the same.
Fuses:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50127478493_fdae7333b0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jnAqWz)20200718_225005 (https://flic.kr/p/2jnAqWz) by Alexander Montoya (https://www.flickr.com/photos/165203321@N07/), on Flickr
Before:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50128046281_658eb6de42_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jnDkJ2)20200718_225603 (https://flic.kr/p/2jnDkJ2) by Alexander Montoya (https://www.flickr.com/photos/165203321@N07/), on Flickr
After:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50127478863_4aa26c6744_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jnAr3X)20200718_230322 (https://flic.kr/p/2jnAr3X) by Alexander Montoya (https://www.flickr.com/photos/165203321@N07/), on Flickr
-
Over on R3V, I saw a very sleek USB charger which included fast charging for the Android devices. My radio has a USB port but it is very slow and my cigarette lighter is not installed. I ordered it, arrived Monday and today installed it. Works great and went wit the 2 port option in case I have a passenger. I will relocate it to the hazard location so its more available to passenger when it redo my AC panel. Still trying to source one as mine is missing a chunk under the AC switch. Got it from Falk MFG based in Oregon.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50160762518_9fec5670c1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jqx285)20200727_220100 (https://flic.kr/p/2jqx285) by monty23psk (https://www.flickr.com/photos/165203321@N07/), on Flickr
-
For those following along, I have noticed when I drive the car, a slight hesitation, once in a while. As well, the car would turn off while taking off maybe 1 in 15 drives. Not my daily anymore, so this is over a span of 3 months. Also, while driving and if I caught it, the check engine light will flicker lightly. I decide to check my Bremi coil packs and cylinder 2 was odd. It would never give me .8 ohms as the other 3, but hover between .9 and .11, sometimes 0. When I look at the pins on the coil, terminal 1 has slight corrosion and mostly at the base. Then looked at the connector, and same white residue. Other pins were just fine. I received a new Bremi coil, connector with 3 open barrel double leaf terminals from BMW, crimped them on and so far so good. Will need to take it out for a few more spirited drives to make sure.
Thought I would share in case someone is noticing this on their vehicle. Also, with now doing this, I will be shorting all the wiring, as I had planned many years ago, so I don't have to use cable ties to keep it somewhat organized. I know recently, someone used the e90 coil packs so maybe I will go that route. I do want to modify the plate so I can get the old BMW cover back on for a more stock look. Will be my next quarantine project.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50227052433_818c6cbd21_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jwoLND)20200814_231913 (https://flic.kr/p/2jwoLND) by (https://www.flickr.com/photos/165203321@N07/), on Flickr
-
Another project I was able to wrap up. After I upgraded my sub in the trunk, the JL Audio amp was not as powerful for the JL Audio sub enclosure. I upgraded to the MX series amp from JL Audio as they are used for extreme type vehicles as they are IP rated casings. I really liked the smaller foot print as they are used on boats and smaller vehicles like golf carts. I swapped the 250w for the 500w model and very happy with it. Sold the older one to pay almost half of this new one. I also upgrade my fuse distribution box and went with 4 AWG wiring. Here is a picture of the new board, wrapped in a nice thick carpet (while it stated black/charcoal, it is lighter compared to the BMW trunk carpets. The rear speakers are not connected (you can see the loose cables) as I got some BMW rear speaker pods that I will install to reduce the size of speakers in the rear. While driving, the rear speakers don't really do much for the listening experience. I also was thinking of mounting the sub box, but like the ability to move it or remove it, if needed. It is very heavy, so won't move around.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50307038041_cd4e63556d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jDsHJR)
-
Little sneak peek of the before pics. e28 M5 wheels 5x120 et20 for the e30 heading to a certain place for new look....
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50373038943_68d902e8b2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jKhZvr)20200922_183847 (https://flic.kr/p/2jKhZvr) by (https://www.flickr.com/photos/165203321@N07/)
-
A little progress during my visit at powder coaters. 1st color done. It is the closes to nogaro silver from the powder brand.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50481543822_5ff43fdaed_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jUT7ed) (https://flic.kr/p/2jUT7ed)
-
Got the wheels back and so nice and shiny and smooth. The two tone came out very nice and subtle. Here is the one wheel with tire mounted before going on the car. If you you compart the lip to the center you can see the slight difference between the nogaro gray and silver lip (look at 7 o'clock position on the wheel face)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50522784517_67e8d9d8a9_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jYwtDF)20201020_155409 (https://flic.kr/p/2jYwtDF)
I then took advantage to wash the gloss back powdercoated calipers and paint the brake rotor surface with silver caliper paint to prevent some corrosion between the hub and wheel in the inside.
Before (front wheel example):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50521884153_cb5a41e1d3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jYrS1a)20201021_143308 (https://flic.kr/p/2jYrS1a)
After (rear wheel example):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50521883978_4b90d128d8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jYrRX9)20201023_155118 (https://flic.kr/p/2jYrRX9)
-
Got them installed. Had to get gas so took impromptu pics of front wheels. Car needs a wash, very dusty from being in garage and still need to lower front a little to give it a better appearance with the H&R OE Sports. At least you can see the colors better outside and how it looks again the Brilliant Red (very faded) color.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50525068766_7aeb094fff_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jYJbFh)
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2jYK1Hq](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50525230362_f4006fb0ff_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jYJbFh) (https://flic.kr/p/2jYK1Hq)
-
The wheels look great!
-
Thanks
-
I started a project at the start of Covid to redo my sound deadening in the interior, starting with driver door. Very slow project to say the least. I have removed all the peel and seal, this took the longest but a heat gun, plastic scrapers, and mineral spirits did the job, if anyone is wondering and wants to tackle this effort. This product, which worked fine but of a lesser quality, uses asphalt (not healthy), and wanted to upgrade to something better. I have now installed the Damplifier Pro sheets from Secondskin based on different articles and recommendations online. 100% coverage is overkill but I added where it made sense and does not get in the way of the operational aspect of the inner skin. This will help with vibration, some road noise, and help keep car cooler which is nice here in Miami. I will add some to the outer skin behind door panel, to help some of the center metal that does flex. I did clean the inner area and started to order replacement parts for a few items so when I paint the car, I have them on-hand.
Here is quick phone picture showing some of the product installed. I used a roller to make sure no air is trapped. The material is much better and really cuts back on the vibration, which is noticeable just opening and closing the door. The sticky paper does work and pulls off lots of debris.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50626714723_b158a32c41_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2k8H9tM) (https://flic.kr/p/2k8H9tM)
In regards to the replacement parts, I am going to re-grease some of the window mechanism and will provide product usage. Currently waiting on delivery of them. Hopefully this help someone and wanted all to know. The window guide/track/channel that is a flocked rubber material is currently on backorder from BMW. I know of someone waiting 1.5 years so far. I added myself on the list as well but for now, I wanted to clean 30 year parts without damaging the rubber. I have some cracks and can't let it get worst. I researched how to clean flocked (suede/velvet) rubber material and looking up jewelry organizers helped me. Not much out there as many liquids or cleaners will remove the flock portion. A good vacuum while brushing a small detailers brush helps but still more is required. I then pull a few sheets off a lint roller per my research, and using the blunt part of the brush, stuff it in, and run it along the flock material to adhere and then I can pull it at 90 degrees, to maker sure not to smear any of the dirt/lint. Here is a picture:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50627465116_2cd05b2811_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2k8LZxA) (https://flic.kr/p/2k8LZxA)
-
PSA to all e30 owners....
Over on r3v, there is a build thread by Albie325, who was filled in by mjweimer. Thank you guys. Since he painted the car, there are some hood bump stops that are probably gone on all e30s due to rubber falling apart due to age. I got them for now and added a pair for when I paint the car. BMW PN is 51231916567. Besides protecting the paint and metal, you dont hear the metal to metal tapping when opening the hood.
Here is a pick of the two parts:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50858411507_db53943c8f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kubDRV)20210118_230847 (https://flic.kr/p/2kubDRV)
Before:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50857595188_1ae52c5094_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ku7tcs)20210120_215624 (https://flic.kr/p/2ku7tcs)
After:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50858310501_028f187a1c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kub8Qr)20210120_221437 (https://flic.kr/p/2kub8Qr)
-
Holy crap, I definitely want some of those rubber stops! Good posting there.
Also, I think I need some of those E28 M5 wheels...even the 15" Euroweaves are too small to really get any "good" tires for anymore, other than max-perf semi-slicks lol. As much fun as those are...I'd rather have tires that don't come with a warning to not use them when the temperature is <40°F lol. What is the PN for the wheels you used? It looks like there are different Style 5 versions (offset and width). I assume ET20 & 7.5" wide is what you used?
-
Holy crap, I definitely want some of those rubber stops! Good posting there.
Also, I think I need some of those E28 M5 wheels...even the 15" Euroweaves are too small to really get any "good" tires for anymore, other than max-perf semi-slicks lol. As much fun as those are...I'd rather have tires that don't come with a warning to not use them when the temperature is <40°F lol. What is the PN for the wheels you used? It looks like there are different Style 5 versions (offset and width). I assume ET20 & 7.5" wide is what you used?
Many options for 16" wheels. E28 m5 will still require 5-lug or a re-drill. The wheels are still available, PN 36112225518. Not cheap as about $450 each new. Still can get them used but can take a while. Took me 3 years to get a full set a reasonable price, ~$150 per wheel, requiring a refinish.
Correct, these are ET20 and 7.5" wide. The e30 m3 evo wheels are ET27. Going 16" also gives you more options for BBKs.
-
Ha, so I spent an hour last night refreshing myself on 5 lug swap info...it's more money and work than I want to undertake at the moment lol. Still, I assume that ET27 is a lot easier to fit than ET20, or is ET20 fine if you do the 5 lug swap with E36 parts?
-
if you do go e36, I believe ET20 will work but you will need to roll fenders and wheel/tire width do matter. I believe the e36 wheels have a larger offset from factory compared to e30s. So it is doable but might be more work and calculations. I hear you about the work effort and price which is why I went with e30 m3. I got lucky and paid $1k for everything included slotted sub-frame about 7-8 years ago. I did have to source calipers but that was much easier.
Other option and not cheap, going coilovers from GC and then just using e30 m3 hubs in the rear. More $ but more plug and play and better suspension in the end.
Not cheaper but might be inline with the amount to time and cost to retro and just make your own or buy custom 4x100 wheels or find re-drilled ones. BBS RS can fit the bill for this but $3k for nice ones re-drilled.
-
Continuing with the driver door rebuild. I remove the window glass to polish it and remove some scratches. I took this opportunity to refresh the regulator and motor. I disassembled the motor to clean out all the dried out grease. I used mineral spirits upon research to not damage the plastic gear. I then applied a good amount of grease made for applications like this. Grease seen in one of the photos.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50871595077_205b4ee517_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50871594827_4b62822343_c.jpg)
I also cleaned up the regulator metal and then gave it a nice coat of a rust protector satin black paint and it now resembles some newer regulators. The exposed galvanized metal always looks dirty. I will apply grease on the regulator rollers as well as the tracks on the glass upon install. I have some silicone lube in a spray can from WD40 with the straw nozzle to apply to channels to smooth out the up/down operation even further.
Before:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50870788163_339e4997a3_c.jpg)
After:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50870787708_255fb7c134_c.jpg)
-
Got a little something a week ago for a small issue I have had for the last 3 years.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50886703141_50ae48c5be_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kwFDYH)
This is the OBC LCD repair kit from Germany. Very simple to remove and replace LCD.
Here is a before and after. Glad I can see that outdoor temp now....
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50886810127_c9789b50a0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kwGcMi)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50885978488_38680decce_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kwBWyG)
-
Finally after waiting long enough, I got the steering wheel I wanted to match the interior which is m3 Evo sport inspired. I got a great deal on a recovered 370mm mtech 2 steering wheel, covered in alcantara, with M tri-color stitching. I used a highly reputable shop in Germany that does BMW and Porsche steering wheels. . I received it in under 2 weeks as well. I did buy a pack of disposable plastic steering wheels, that dealers and shops use. This, if my hands are dirty, I can pop one off to extend the life of the alcantara. Now to figure what to do with the 385mm Mtech1 wheel.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50889013753_1d08617f7e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kwTuQR)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50889843462_fb572e6151_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kwXKub)
-
Nice looking steering wheel!
-
Thanks. Took it out for a long drive to a cars and coffee. Very nice to hold on to the Alcantara and still getting used it it. I never want to touch it, so not damage it. Also, the smaller diameter, to be honest, is not the noticeable on a highway cruise or around town. Might be more in spirited driving. I wished the column did have a tilt function like newer cars.
-
Here is the 2nd phase of the sound proofing of the driver door. I am using another Second Skin product, called Overkill closed cell foam. I opted for the thinner version as I didnt want it too thick and the door panel push on it. I am using this to not only help with sound absorption, but to replace the plastic vapor barrier. I still have some in a roll from BMW of OEM vapor adhesive plastic, but going to try this out. I need to test it some more and if all looks ok, do a water test to make sure no leaks are noticed. Here is a quick picture of it installed. The bottom right looks odd because of the indentions on the door inner metal to the material needs to curve in/out.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50947402658_dbed1c5b08_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kC3KQ7)20210212_203643 (https://flic.kr/p/2kC3KQ7)
-
That looks like a nice clean install. I did the same thing with some 3mm closed cell foam sheeting, but I guess I had a hole in the lower-rear part of it (passenger door) which was letting a lot of water in and under the carpet. I pulled it out and covered that opening in the door frame with some aluminum HVAC tape (multiple overlapped strips pulled tight). You should have no problem getting the trim panel back on with just the foam. Like a dummy (a decade ago) I also put Damplifier on (before the foam) and the panel did not fit well. It turns out that the rubber compound is a real pain to remove...
-
In my trials I found a little seepage of water because of a gap. But I figured how to fix it and just waiting for. a little move material to test my theory. My old plastic vapor barrier, even after 10 years grew a crack and door will would get wet, luckily it never came into car but car normally is in my garage during down pours. I did see your install and used this product because of it. Just not going over kill with adding more than I need too. A little more is better that what came with our car from the factory.
-
Recently did a coolant flush and replaced the radiator drain plug, the inner o-ring had a small flat spot and liked a few drops after a decent drive. Swapped it out plus the two larger upper radiator hoses as it had been over 10 years. Need to prep for the long drive to the Vintage in May.
I also an early birthday gift. Swapped out my modern radio HU to something more period looking for our cars but still bringing the modern touches of Bluetooth and media inputs, the Blaupunkt Bremen SQR 46. Very cool radio with many features. Just getting use to the operation of it. I am still working on calibrating the colors to match. Need to drive it during the day and night to make sure the color is close to OEM. I am also swapping to the HVAC panel bulbs with LEDs as well as the buttons for rear defogger and AC. Very easy todo, just awaiting the right colors to arrive. Will post one after that little project is complete.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51027952151_3d92d3465d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kKaAot) (https://flic.kr/p/2kKaAot)
-
Finally, the driver door is complete. Fast window action up and down and very solid when I close the door. No rattles and also the outside noise is more diminished than before. I awaited brand new door panel clips from the dealer and more than half are the original white ones from the 1990 build date. They would not seal the holes up and small water would seep through. Here is a quick pick of a portion of the door panel with the newer green clips. I will do the passenger door in June after The Vintage car show. I will move on to fixing the steering rubber coupler and installed the brand new fog lights for my car. My car didn't receive the fog lights from the factory but I know the wiring in the engine bay. Really hope the switch plug receptacle is there. I also have a euro dual fog light switch I will install. The second button is for something I am cooking up.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51048128496_054b6ff987_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kLX17u)20210315_235202 (https://flic.kr/p/2kLX17u)
-
While rebuilding my HVAC panel to add all the LED bulbs, I noticed that the middle slider light was night shining through. Upon inspection, the fiber optic wire had snapped about halfway from bulb to slider button. I was able to source a very mint panel from a non-AC car, which only has a blank plate where the AC switch goes and the slider mechanism was included. Got lucky with price. This non AC panel also meant that the plastic piece under the AC switch and above the defrost diagram was good as new. My old one has this missing and one I got years ago had a crack.
I will post pictures as I complete it but while doing that, I swapped out the bulbs with in all the switches with LEDs. The only one I couldn't, the hazard. It uses an internal solder bulb. I have read it can be done but I want to keep it as original to the car. But I did find out the e28 hazard does have the bulb socket and works. Confirmed the pin outs with the ETM as well. The only thing you need to do, saw off a little plastic leg. Replaced the bulb, tested it and all good.
Here are the two switches side by side, front and back. E28 version on the left:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51081974823_3779f95d41_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kPWtrR) (https://flic.kr/p/2kPWtrR)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51082669651_54c8541ab4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kQ12ZD) (https://flic.kr/p/2kQ12ZD)
Here is red colored bulb:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50997747699_9c82060cd1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kGuME4) (https://flic.kr/p/2kGuME4)
-
I am running about 2-3 different projects at once so I want to do another update while I await some parts this week.
Here is a picture of the slider mechanism and you can see the middle black fiber optic cable broken. I got lucky on eBay as I found a non-AC panel from a car in Canada with low mileage. I got the slider mechanism replaced but also came a blank plug for the AC switch. This meant the structure integrity is brand new for the AC switch. I got the whole unit for the price on used HVAC panel in ok condition. Here is the picture of the broken piece.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51114599813_8209786d34_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kSPFHF) (https://flic.kr/p/2kSPFHF)
All the levers are nice and smooth now and even better, all nice and bright with the LEDs. I also cleaned all the clear translucent parts with a optic cleaner and that surely made a difference from 30 years of dust.
I then moved on to my other project, installed factory new fog lights on my car that didn't have that option installed from factory. I knew the fog light switch housing was in in there, I removed all the under steering wheel trim and finally found it behind all the computers tire wrapped. I then added the 2 fuses and using my temp fog switch, pushed the button in and like magic, my green fog light LED turned on. First time isn 30 years this cluster has seen this light, super stocked.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51115482425_fd85747682_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kSUd68) (https://flic.kr/p/2kSUd68)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51114123777_1136eb2e1b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kSMfda) (https://flic.kr/p/2kSMfda)
Next will be pics of fixing the fog light wiring in the engine bay plus the lens and the Laminx items I purchased.
-
As I continue to work through the fog light wiring in the engine bay, the watertight insulation has crumbled away, so it just slides through the connector. I bought new tips from BMW, spliced them but solder/butt/heat shrink connector and then added heat shrink tubing on top of it to cover it. I also cleaned the connecters. Here are a few shots of one side which I also did the same exact thing on the other side.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51116472269_1ac01267f1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kSZhkp) (https://flic.kr/p/2kSZhkp)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51116717941_618f7e176b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kT1xn8) (https://flic.kr/p/2kT1xn8)
Before and after of connector after a little simple green and toothbrush action:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51117516125_4267d92348_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kT5CCV) (https://flic.kr/p/2kT5CCV)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51116471089_e417b3e28a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kSZgZ4) (https://flic.kr/p/2kSZgZ4)
Final product:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51116470524_ac12d2c9ff_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kSZgPj) (https://flic.kr/p/2kSZgPj)
-
With the wiring repair, I started to work on the fog lights and mounting them.
I went with ZKW ones from FCP as I get lifetime warranty and the BMW ones are probably made by ZKW or one of its subsidiaries. Here is the picture of a new crisp lens.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51117446198_925a9e1683_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kT5gRh) (https://flic.kr/p/2kT5gRh)
With my car being red, I really like yellow fogs. I had the option to go with yellow bulbs or yellow Lamin-X. I opted for the bulb as I want to use LEDs. Here is the bulb that has about 1000 lumens which is close to a stock halogen bulb. I will still need to see how it looks because the yellow can look a different from the various power levels.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51117535336_aa7d9480b5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kT5Jm9) (https://flic.kr/p/2kT5Jm9)
I did purchase the tint color from Lamin-X because with my front headlights having the smoked look. I want it all uniformed. Not sure how that will affect the yellow as well. Good thing, options with bulbs and Lamin-X.
Here are the lens protection I received:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51117529286_17a01775c2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kT5GxQ) (https://flic.kr/p/2kT5GxQ)
One side applied to allow contrast:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51116966032_cde6c64ce4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kT2P7y) (https://flic.kr/p/2kT2P7y)
Both sides complete.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51117527516_6d4e0e660e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kT5G2j) (https://flic.kr/p/2kT5G2j)
-
Got the fogs installed. While I did buy a used fog light switch, I then opted for the dual fog light switch you can get in the Euro models. I decided to use the right side as a kill switch for my antenna. With the new radio, when it powers up, it sends the signal to extend the antenna. With the use of the iPod or BT streaming the majority of the time, I wanted to keep the antenna away from any danger. I got new timer connector to install them in the factory housing and ran the BMW black/red wiring. Worked like a charm. I added an LED amber bulb to the HL housing as well.
Here is the switch:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51127408875_fb1572ed79_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kTXkpz) (https://flic.kr/p/2kTXkpz)
Here is one of the connecters crimped with a TE connector as I couldn't find the right one from BMW, they were all too large.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51126509393_f58de64ab9_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kTSJ2g) (https://flic.kr/p/2kTSJ2g)
Here is the housing with the LED, which old one would power on whenever it wanted to.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51127409335_57df25d65b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kTXkxv) (https://flic.kr/p/2kTXkxv)
Here are a few pics of the fog light install. No issue as valance was great and untouched all these years. Removed the blank plates which I had my sister get them when she owned the car before I got. I will sell them with the clips. Got new BMW hardware to install.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51117843398_4deb68633b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kT7iVy) (https://flic.kr/p/2kT7iVy)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51127451525_1c661d4524_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kTXy5V) (https://flic.kr/p/2kTXy5V)
Here is one side installed and then one with the yellow light one. Next is for me to adjust and take some exterior pictures. Also need to see the yellow to make sure it is the color I am looking for and brightness.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51126231682_44f1da8264_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kTRit9) (https://flic.kr/p/2kTRit9)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51127450825_245b14622a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kTXxSR) (https://flic.kr/p/2kTXxSR)
-
Nice work, it's always the zillion little details that eat up so much time.
How do you think the middle fiber optic cable broke? That's an item that must be hard to track town or repair!
-
Nice work, it's always the zillion little details that eat up so much time.
How do you think the middle fiber optic cable broke? That's an item that must be hard to track town or repair!
I am thinking the back and forth of the middle slider just wore it out. Since I have had the car, I always open and close it. I know the majority of owners leave it open to the right. The heat can make the plastic jacket more right. I don't how working on radio install can cause this. That is the only time it has been exposed in my car. A cable falling in between and the being yanked broke it. While anything possible I believe age and heat made it prone to the break.
-
I just completed another small project after going to an e30 meet and someone using LED tap in the trunk under the rear shelf to illuminate that area. My e39 had a lens in the middle but I didn't want to cut the metal to make it fit. I want to do something similar and still provide a temporary way to remove if not needed. THe bar is around 12 inches in length. I used the came connector when I added the 2nd trunk lid light and spliced some 22awg wiring in a sleeve following the factory patch. The LED light bar is pushing out some natural white color. Didn't want warm white or the cool blue, as I don't see the blue as functional. The light is very strong but not over powering and best part, it has using magnets in the housing so easy to attach and remove. Light has great reviews being used in RVs and shops due to the magnets. Here are a few pictures of the install.
A few pics:
Added next to factory wiring:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51144524860_00fd0b39ca_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kVt4oL) (https://flic.kr/p/2kVt4oL)
Light bar installed and held up by magnets. Got it at superbrightleds.com
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51143417951_ed49f5c1d5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kVnom8) (https://flic.kr/p/2kVnom8)
Let there be light. I also like how this now make the color painted and audio system visible. I took this before I ran the wiring to make sure it all worked.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51142746197_c0f976021d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kViWEa) (https://flic.kr/p/2kViWEa)
-
Nice idea! I think I need to do this as well. We have similar audio setups, although I have the sub in the middle of the baffle firing into the ski pass hole. Nice and out of the way, mostly.
-
Really makes the trunk useful at night. If you need PNs I used, just let me know.
-
Happy m42club is back. Few updates since site went down:
Haven't updated in a while. My last project was a doozy. I removed my old ABS pump to have ti rebuilt by Jordan. His pictures of my pump really shows how bad things with age get. In the 15 years I have owned it, the brake fluid has been flushed every 2-3 years. After getting the pump installed and everything flush/bled, I can now feel the pump working. I highly recommend this upgrade if you still have the ABS because age, not miles is what the culprit will be.
Old pump removed:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51279146387_546e635d9b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m8n2Fz)
Jordan's pics of the teardown showing some of the low points:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51280914820_918d46aa51_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m8w6nN)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51280914820_918d46aa51_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m8w6nN)
What I call parts porn:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51280619719_0c082c9dee_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m8uzDR)
Final product (thanks Jordan!):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51279890791_b93d51a9f1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m8qQY8)
ABS plastic cover after some wet sanding, SEM Soap, and then SEM trim paint:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51280915310_e0c7f772ea_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m8w6wf)
Everything installed:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51280915470_48dd9b70c8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m8w6z1)
-
Next project, swap in rubber front floor mats in place of my stock e30 black mats. The mats are NLA so I decided to remove the fronts, clean them and store them. I will use the rubber months for now during the rainy season and only use the carpet ones for shows. I wanted something OE and hear the e82 versions are small enough to be a perfect fit. I order them as they are still under $40 for the front set from BMW. They do come with the anchors to screw into the main carpet and uses velcro to prevent them from sliding. The driver side is a very good fit, almost perfect. The passenger side is just a little too wide at the top so it covers more of the bottom carpet up and to the side of the lower speaker. It really doesn't cover the grill trip just buttons up to it. Here are a few pics and I do recommend them. Weathertech ones looks like it will fit but looks more modern than these IMO.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51296066777_4856437119_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m9RKwr)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51296066987_9e15e7dfc4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m9RKA4)
-
Awesome! I also have a Jordan-rebuilt ABS unit, and damn it is one of the best "upgrades" I have ever done. The stock ABS is really good (when it is actually working)!
-
Yes I
Awesome! I also have a Jordan-rebuilt ABS unit, and damn it is one of the best "upgrades" I have ever done. The stock ABS is really good (when it is actually working)!
Yes, after you did it and reported back I decided to do it. Car feels different, in a good way. Even with the upgraded brakes it is so much better.
-
Have done a few things while still collecting some parts for the paint job. I took care of a leaky top o-ring on the AC compressor. While doing it, I replaced the r134a service ports and valves from BMW. The blue and red caps are nice and bright. The internal valve was replaced with a kit I got from Amazon that also has the same tool.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51693160248_b51b0701f3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mKWXzA)
Here is the low pressure installed:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51693160668_86947f92c2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mKWXGQ)
I also took the change to replace the watertight insulated connectors for the AC compressor as they deteriorated and one of the connector plugs was broken. I has connected them and just used heat shrink tubing to protect from water. I added new tips and new connectors from BMW.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51692893726_8010aa7a7b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mKVAmo)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51693160923_3df65baba4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mKWXMe)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51692894001_93e3cd813d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mKVAr8)
-
Keeping busy over there! Looks like you are making good progress.
-
Another update a long time coming. Steering wheel would rattle over bumpy or uneven payment. First I thought it was balancing or something worn but the rattle is only felt with the steering wheel. The airbag steering knuckle guibo was starting to show the cords. The part is a one piece solution riveted for the airbag cars. It has recently gone NLA. I decided to do what many do, remove the rivets and add the stock or aftermarket guibo. I decided on rubber and all the other materials, while great for the track will, not make it as enjoyable on regular roads as the rubber item. I got all new hardware from BMW for the conversion. I can saw that the little rattle is gone but need to really drive it on the highway to test. Luckily just remove the bolts from the steering rack is enough to get the knuckle off in my case. I can now service this if needed with out remove these bolts.
Here are the cords showing through the rubber which was allowing it to flex and cause the rattle.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51830319087_f7645a0cb7_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mY4W8a)
Here are all the new parts from BMW.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51831613534_28d41a39f8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mYbyVd)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51830315557_455692ff1a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mY4V5i)
All back together. Also used a wire brush to remove grime and old cosmoline on the aluminum.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51830319262_5ca3c1cb0c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mY4Wbb)
-
Wow, awesome! I was afraid I would need to go with a solid coupler since the OEM one is NLA, but it looks like an inexpensive OEM part works fine after rivet removal. Could you post a parts list of the guibo and fasteners?
-
Sure. https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=1113-USA-10-1987-E30-BMW-325i&diagId=32_0480 (https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=1113-USA-10-1987-E30-BMW-325i&diagId=32_0480)
Parts 9-13.
You will need 4 bolts/nuts. I ordered the 8 washers but only 4 will work due to the wider part at the top of bolt. The diagram has is incorrectly on both sides of guibod. Part 11 is not listed here but I did find it and ordered it. I didn't need it as the plastic bushing on mine was there and still tight. I did install the new one (because I had it) but had to use a 10mm drill bit to open it up a little to fit the steering shaft.
If you want me to get you the PN, just let me know and I will pull up receipt.
-
Awesome, thanks! Yeah, if you have the #11 PN handy, I will try to get that one as well. At this point, with a 31 year old car, I just replace everything in an assembly if it is not made of metal lol.
-
Totally agree. Here you go: 32311114508
-
Another small update. Noticed a little oil on the floor of garage. Found out one of the bolts for the lower oil pan had fallen out. Feared something was stripped and over time it backed out. Order new bolt from BMW, and sure enough, it was striped. I order the timesert m6 kit and off I went. Replaced the gasket with a version from BMW, which is from Elring but seems to be a different model than when you get it aftermarket. Also replace the front bolts that had oxidation due to threads being exposed from the top. Also, did a cleaning of the inside/outside with Simple Green and a toothbrush. Didn't take a pic of the before.
Timesert installed:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51955712240_7660f85be8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2na9B95)
A cleaned lower oil pan (I then took a wire wheel to remove any old gasket residue):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51955712470_56da97cd57_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2na9Bd3)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51954130912_ec8fb31a1a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2na1v4N)
Gasket:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51954130697_9b4b98ee83_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2na1v16)
-
Leaky oil pans...such a pain. Did you install the gasket dry, or with some sealant?
-
Leaky oil pans...such a pain. Did you install the gasket dry, or with some sealant?
Dry, followed BMW instructions. The gasket was still dry except where the bolt had fallen off and even that it was minimal due to the other 15 bolts being used to keep it together. If it was like this for 10 years, why mess with it.
-
After using Bosch batteries, non-AGM for the last 10 years, I have decided to find an AGM replacement. Going through my records, I have changed it out every 2-3 years for it not able to hold a charge over night. With Pepboys being sold, and they no longer carrying Bosch, I decided to go with an Odyssey AGM 96R battery. Our cars and probably the 325i/is with battery in the trunk, uses the T6/GRP91 size. While a H6/GRP48 will work, it is an inch taller. The only GRP91 I find that is AGM is from Bosch and nothing easily found in my area. The 96R size is same width and height as the the 91 just a little shorter in length. As long as you can get creative with the tie down, it will work just fine. I installed it tonight and all is good. Even the SI board GGraves voltmeter reads higher with the key in position 1. This deeper cycle battery should hold out better and it comes with 3 year warranty from Autozone. I have a GRP 93 on the shelf, 3 yrs old, AGM and still has 12.6v.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51976558104_8a206aefbc_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nbZrTw) (https://flic.kr/p/2nbZrTw)
-
Nice, good to know about the sizing. I have found that it is getting harder and harder to find places that stock the proper battery. I can probably 3D print a spacer block to make a 96 fit well. Fingers crossed that I get at least a couple more years out of the battery in there!
-
I have something up my sleeve with another battery, also from Odyssey that some of the 911 owners use. Found out someone used it in a non track e30 m3 and no issues. I will post pictures here once I install.
-
So here is what I was up to. Doing some research, the 911 guys do this battery upgrade and confirmed an owner with e30 m3 street version car did it as well. There is an Odyssey battery, the PC925, that is much smaller, still AGM, and about ~12lbs lighter, and also cheaper than the 96 I bought. Because I was within my 30 days, Autozone happily exchanged it and credit me the difference.
I also found a company that makes a kit to mount it. Company is call Rennline, same as the one with the phone mount I installed. I purchased the universal kit and bolted it with 2 bolts to the existing e30 plastic battery tray. I did get measurements in having conversations with them. Great customer service.
Here are the old 96R batter compared to the new 925. I did have to by the SAE terminal posts which is nice as it has a bolt that screws in on top. Used it for the trickle battery charger connectors.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52040741850_473c7c0ac4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nhEptQ)
The posts (from Odyssey):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52040278568_896371c42f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nhC2Ld)
The battery installed with the Rennline mounting kit:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52040479649_1dbf775338_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nhD4x8)
-
Damn, that is nice! I am going to need to look into that.
-
So after almost 15 years and almost 100K miles, I decided to swap out my static Billy/H&R combo for something adjustable. Went with Koni Sports and GC kit.
The old and new shock. I have AKG rear shock mounts the insert is still very good as it is only a few years old and not much mileage. I set the shot to a quarter turn before stiffest rebound to try it out.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52175660028_75ecba35a3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nuzTXj)
New shock all together:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52176143030_937a8be18f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nuCnwW)
Old OE Sports vs GC adjuster and Eibach spring. This is lowest setting to demonstrate but I have set it to something between HR race and sports
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52174629472_0e497ba92f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nuuBB7)
Springs and adjuster installed:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52175661246_cc09baf1c5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nuzUjj)
-
Found the passenger side engine mount head shield cracked and a little rusty. Ordered a new plate and bolt.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52196442568_7d22503220_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nwqpSY)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52196690209_514b9ae0ed_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nwrFuD)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52196689874_cc650191b5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nwrFoS)
-
Purchased a new headlight button with a fresh stencil. I will keep the old one and remove all the old grime, remove stencil and apply a new one in the future.
Before:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205779631_c0d074542a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nxfgsP)
After:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205779696_71b967860a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nxfgtW)
-
Good progress! It is always nice to see the little details getting refreshed...some of that stuff is getting hard to find, and certainly not any cheaper as time goes on.
-
Good progress! It is always nice to see the little details getting refreshed...some of that stuff is getting hard to find, and certainly not any cheaper as time goes on.
Very true, if you bought sought after parts 2 years ago, you will make $ and if they are now NLA, you double. Not saying to invest in car parts but part of me wants to, lol
-
Haha, E30 parts to the moon!
-
I found out I was missing a small trim piece in the trunk. BMW still has it and very cheap. The car jack hinge has a cover on the right side.
The part:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52235794382_633fd01d9f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nzU6Nw)
Before:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52235794007_c6d3ccde9d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nzU6G4)
After:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52237052549_22b4a2e21f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nA1xP4)
-
Awesome find! Was this the product of a late-night adventure through the corners of RealOEM?
-
Awesome find! Was this the product of a late-night adventure through the corners of RealOEM?
LOL. It was a few years ago but was NLA. I checked a few weeks back and was available and very cheap.
-
Minor update, decided to swap out 30yr plus lug bolts with new ones.
New lug bolts:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52635937534_9a9fefafbc_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ocfWqo) (https://flic.kr/p/2ocfWqo)
Before:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52635165332_ac98d13a47_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ocbYSy) (https://flic.kr/p/2ocbYSy)
After:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52636159583_88176f70d0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2och5qP) (https://flic.kr/p/2och5qP)
-
Mmmmm 5-lug...jealous!
-
Small update. The water tight connectors for the brake fluid level sensor were brittle and the plastic jackets were all gone. Every time I washed my engine bay, the light in the cluster would go on until it dried. I got a new housing and spliced in new BMW watertight terminals. My original housing was cracked so I bought a new one. Even thought the PN is new, it is now longer, and my assumption is that you do not need the grommet at the end. I reused the grommet because mine was intact.
Old vs New
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52675457657_2764448447_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ofKunP) (https://flic.kr/p/2ofKunP)
New WT connectors in new housing
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52675457597_184d5ee013_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ofKumM) (https://flic.kr/p/2ofKumM)
Installed:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52676396535_e6cac57a89_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ofQitn) (https://flic.kr/p/2ofQitn)
Here I replace the housing on the windshield washer pump. The clips had broken off over time being the original connector. New on top of old.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52675457442_8eb0ef88a3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ofKuj7) (https://flic.kr/p/2ofKuj7)
-
Wow nice...got a PN for that brake fluid level sensor connector? Mine is rotted out as well.
-
Wow nice...got a PN for that brake fluid level sensor connector? Mine is rotted out as well.
housing: 61131378408
wiring (WT connector): 61130007441 or 61130007442 (thicker gauge) Both seem to be NLA or back ordered.
-
I am working on installing my Stromung m42 exhaust after 7 years of my custom one. I decide to refresh all the mounting hardware from BMW as well. New heat shield and mounting brackets.
Before:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52746701703_1f4727ff11_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2on3CKr) (https://flic.kr/p/2on3CKr)
After:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52746629915_c1726a9a0d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2on3gpH) (https://flic.kr/p/2on3gpH)
-
I need to post pics of the exhaust installed. It sounds great!
I was looking around engine bay and noticed the 30+ year plus original rubber hose from TB to charcoal canister was in bad shape. I got a new replacement from BMW.
New Hose:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52765620769_99e13f34da_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ooHAJe) (https://flic.kr/p/2ooHAJe)
Before:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52765778640_a115b27902_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ooJpE9) (https://flic.kr/p/2ooJpE9)
Hose cut to length. New and old side by side:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52765778580_48274d3986_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ooJpD7) (https://flic.kr/p/2ooJpD7)
New installed:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52764829287_b95a5e2086_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ooDxrZ) (https://flic.kr/p/2ooDxrZ)
-
Here is the Stromung exhaust installed pics.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52767740420_46373ee1aa_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ooUsPW) (https://flic.kr/p/2ooUsPW)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52767327116_7943931c11_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ooSkY1) (https://flic.kr/p/2ooSkY1)
-
So after I replaced the charcoal canister/fuel purge valve hose, I noticed the Bosch 2-pol connector has one lead that was oxidized. I rebuilt the connector/pins with another Bosch rebuild kit and after I did that, the purge valve lasted a week before the CEL came on. I guess it was making contact in the right place but after new metal came in, the oxidation inside the valve connector was not making good contact. I order a new on from BMW, swapped it in and no more CEL. After the atthevintage event, I am going t rebuild the actual charcoal canister as the outside looks like it is truly over 30yrs old.
Here is a pic of old vs new:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52857674135_c2eaa41ea4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2owRoZe) (https://flic.kr/p/2owRoZe)
-
I noticed the brake booster check valve hose were all cracked. Decided to replace it all and went with an e36 check valve as the e30 version is NLA.
Before:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52880414672_2d99ddc440_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oyRWXs)20230430_095238 (https://flic.kr/p/2oyRWXs)
Parts:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52881151619_d2c430fefb_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oyVJ2r)20230430_153000 (https://flic.kr/p/2oyVJ2r)
After:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52880990486_1a29a14d3a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oyUU8h)20230430_213339 (https://flic.kr/p/2oyUU8h)
-
Nice workaround, it is good to know that the E36 valve is a workable option here. I did my BB/vacuum hoses a while back, and thankfully the check valve was still fine.
How is the Stromung cat-back?
-
Nice workaround, it is good to know that the E36 valve is a workable option here. I did my BB/vacuum hoses a while back, and thankfully the check valve was still fine.
How is the Stromung cat-back?
My original CV was still working, they are bullet proof unless oii/fluid gets into them. But it was very faded and removing the old hoses as I want to keep showed me how brittle the plastic was so I threw it away.
Exhaust is awesome. I just did a 2k mile trip to the Vintage and it was nothing crazy compared to my old one and good volume on the high way with no really droning unless you step on it. I got two compliments while doing the tail of the dragon again on how it sounding ripping through the curves. Now to find a good SS polish to keep and protect it.
-
Been busy with life but still enjoying the e30. After searching 3 years, I finally found the elusive air intake box snorkel.
Here a picture of the gap where the tube should go:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53314089132_0847a9c13d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pebDgj)
I sourced one that had a little bit of grime build up and the bellows had two tears. I did the bellow repair with crazy glue and RTV as I found online, and then gave it the SEM treatment. SEM Soap, gray scuff pad and then SEM trim paint. It came out pretty nice.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53314088807_011d60756f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pebDaH)
And here it is installed:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53315197253_53e7d7d609_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pehjER)
-
So after 32 year and one week from my car coming off the factory line, the hood shock was replaced. It went bad a few weeks ago and the hood wouldn't stay open if it was just touched or while on a slight incline. I opted to get the OE part as it was just few dollars more and it has the work E30 labeled on it, which I fine cool. here is before and after:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53362766261_684ec492a1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2piu8ha) (https://flic.kr/p/2piu8ha)