M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => General Topics => Topic started by: Poooobaa on March 17, 2008, 04:30:24 PM
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Hi - does anyone have some input as to the cause of this oil leak. It drips from the crank sensor onto the pan and then my garage floor. Cleaned everything and tried to follow to the source but it does not leak at idle, only after driving with higher revs. It does not appear to be coming from higher on the engine. Thanks in advance.:confused:
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crank seal?
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Thanks. The crank seal is new and there is no oil inside the pully wheel that covers it. It is something else.
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post a pic...!i could be almost every seal in front of the engine..
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There has to be (and always is) a "starting point" from where you could trace back the leak.
What I would do is this - get a can of Brakeleen (or generic brake parts cleaner) or spray on carb cleaner and spray down the entire front area of the engine, including timing cover, etc... Start from the valve cover and go down. Once you have thoroughly cleaned the entire area and either let the engine air dry or by drying it with a towel, then start the vehicle, let it idle for a bit (20 mins or so) and monitor that area of the engine.
If you do not see a leak with it idling, then take it for a spin around the block and recheck the front of the engine.
There are multiple areas of which the leak could be coming from, but in order to determine the origination, the entire front area of the engine should be 100% clean. With a clean area, you *should* be able to find the starting point of the leak and then will be able to determine where the leak has originated from on the front of the engine.
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I have a same kind of leak coming from the front of the engine.
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Thanks for the input everyone. Right now I am really stumped so I will go over what I have done to correct this problem with no success.
Tore the engine down and replaced the valve cover gaskets, head gasket, profile gasket, timing cover upper gaskets, timing sensor o-ring, middle rubber gasket between the covers, thermostat o-ring and gasket, lower cover gaskets, water pump gasket, crank seal, oil filer housing o-ring and gasket, dip stick o-ring, lower pan gasket. Have not replaced the main pan gasket or the housing gasket for the oil galley panel between it and the engine block. Everything is 100% clean. I can only follow the leak about 2 inches up the crank sensor wire. Thats it. :mad:
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Possibly leaking at the cam gear sensor or between the upper and lower front covers and running down the lead to the crankshaft sensor.
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As stated above I replaced the o-ring on the cam sensor, plus I can see and feel that area of the engine. Not it. But thanks for the input.
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just because you have replaced all these seal doesn't mean thats not the problem
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Hi!
Ive just changed all my gasket on my engine. After 100 KM of use, guess what : ANOTHER OIL LEAK!
So, my mechanical and me (ive no garage...) we just dissamble everything on the front and clean it (fan, fan clutch, radiator, plastic cover)..
My oil leak was on the side of the gasket cover....WITH NEW GASKET!!
So, we remove the new gasket, removing the A/C support, shorten bolt for more pression and fixe the cover with Permatex Gasket Builder and now, I have 800 KM running with that and its still ok!
Another question for you :
1- Ive changed my thermostat and my fan clutch and my engine is still overwarming......IT IS my water pump?
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Hi!
Another question for you :
1- Ive changed my thermostat and my fan clutch and my engine is still overwarming......IT IS my water pump?
You might need to bleed the cooling system first.
get your car to operating temp and open the hood and go near the radiator expansion cap. you will find a brass looking screw that goes into the top of the radiator.
get your screw driver and undo it a couple of turns and get back in the car and put the heat to full blast. go back to the engine bay and give the throttle a couple tugs and wait for all the bubbles to bleed out of the screw.
screw the bleeder screw back in.
then enjoy.
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Hi!
Ive just changed all my gasket on my engine. After 100 KM of use, guess what : ANOTHER OIL LEAK!
So, my mechanical and me (ive no garage...) we just dissamble everything on the front and clean it (fan, fan clutch, radiator, plastic cover)..
My oil leak was on the side of the gasket cover....WITH NEW GASKET!!
So, we remove the new gasket, removing the A/C support, shorten bolt for more pression and fixe the cover with Permatex Gasket Builder and now, I have 800 KM running with that and its still ok!
Another question for you :
1- Ive changed my thermostat and my fan clutch and my engine is still overwarming......IT IS my water pump?
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So, even with replacing the original leaking gasket with a BRAND NEW gasket, you still had oil leak issues? Just curious, what brand gasket was the new one that leaked? What did you torque your timing cover bolts to?
Did you use the gasket sealer w/ the gasket, or did you remove the new gasket and just use the sealer by itself?
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So, even with replacing the original leaking gasket with a BRAND NEW gasket, you still had oil leak issues? Just curious, what brand gasket was the new one that leaked? What did you torque your timing cover bolts to?
Did you use the gasket sealer w/ the gasket, or did you remove the new gasket and just use the sealer by itself?
Ive buy kit selled on BMAPART?
Torque timing cover?
for the moment, I have no gasket at all on my timing chain cover. Just using "the right stuff" by Permatex..
So, my thermostat is changed, all the air have been drained by the screw near the radiator cap, brand new fan clutch and my engine is still not good cooled...
My car have 210 000 milles. The water pump? How I can be sure?
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On this pic below - you are referring to the gasket(s) that would be behind parts # 1 (upper timing case cover) and 2 (lower timing case cover) - is this correct?
(http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/b/n/50.png)
It would be gaskets # 15 & 16.
The reason I am asking is because my M42 was entirely rebuilt and the front timing cover gasket (which is also brand new) is also seeping oil... The timing cover bolts are also torqued (tightened) to the correct spec per the available manuals. The manuals did not state to use any type of sealant w/ these gaskets either...
I'm wondering if there is a manufacturing defect w/ these gaskets, because I don't see why brand new gaskets would be leaking after being installed 100% properly...
?
I think I will start a separate thread inquiring about this issue...
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I can't see your picture, so, I know what you are talking about. This is the lower timing chain cover gasket who failed in my case. I have replaced it by a brand new "Victor Reinz" gasket for my car and after 100 KM he have failed too...so, ive removed it, removed the conditionned air support, shorten the bolt and fixed eveything in place with this stuff.http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_Permatex_the_Right_Stuff_Gasket_Maker.htm (http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_Permatex_the_Right_Stuff_Gasket_Maker.htm)
So, it look to be fixed for the moment..i want to know if its my water pump or if ive a 91degree instead of 88 degree thermostat it can make the difference?
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I can't see your picture, so, I know what you are talking about. This is the lower timing chain cover gasket who failed in my case. I have replaced it by a brand new "Victor Reinz" gasket for my car and after 100 KM he have failed too...so, ive removed it, removed the conditionned air support, shorten the bolt and fixed eveything in place with this stuff.http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_Permatex_the_Right_Stuff_Gasket_Maker.htm (http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_Permatex_the_Right_Stuff_Gasket_Maker.htm)
So, it look to be fixed for the moment..i want to know if its my water pump or if ive a 91degree instead of 88 degree thermostat it can make the difference?
pifane - if you would, please join in this thread and post your comments (or copy & paste them there - there are others who are experiencing these same failures w/ new front timing cover gaskets):
http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5428
THX! :)
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Mine front engine leak was because of five bolts in the sump ;)
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after I did all new gaskets on my engine I had similar problems, one from the lower timing case gasket and one from the inner timing case gasket. The second one was at the point where this gasket meets the sump, nasty 3 way joint there, in the end I reverted to using a very small smear of sealent on the gaskets before assembly, and used another whole set of gaskets. now it's all dry
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I am in the midsts of taking care of a blown head gasket.
For those of you who have used an added sealer with your gaskets - did you add it to both sides of the gasket or just one, and if it was just one side which side?
Thank you for your time
Frank
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any help?
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After trying to replace the old gasket with brand new one, i completely removed the new gasket and making a new one with permatex gasket maker.
Now, on my timing chain cover, I only have permatex gasket builder..
All depend of your mileage...
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Well this has turned into quite the thread. Just so I can leave it in peace, let me state what I found on my m42. After three times of new gaskets on the front of the engine I resorted to gasket sealer on the corner of where the upper and lower timing cover come together. This is the lower side, far passenger side. No more leak, 10k miles on it. Thanks.