M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => Swaps, Turbos, Buildups => Topic started by: +mtxmatrixx on February 27, 2008, 01:17:09 PM
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Wow looks like you've got a good project going on. Why are the last 2 pictures from 2004? Just something wrong with the camera I guess. How much boost do you think you'll run, and what kind of tuning are you going to use. Looks great keep up the progress.
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Check out VACMotorsports.com, they carry MLS headgaskets and I doubt an M42 unit would be on backorder. I'm quite interested. I'm actually going to check out a lower mileage M42 powered E30 to mess around with, keep the turbo goodness coming.
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Looks like its comming along nicely. Post up some vid's once you get it running.
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Hi +mtxmatrixx, it's great to see you here! I've subscribed your thread to see how it will end!
Great project
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Does anyone know if this obx manifold will fit in an e30? I know it will bolt on to my m42 but im not sure if there will be adequate clearance. Nice project you have going there!
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is that the ebay clutch flywheel settup?
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Glad to see someone else with this manifold!! I just bought the same one last week, and had concerns about it fitting in the E36. The seller told me it was a top-mount, which I knew was impossible. Did you get the 3" downpipe with it? What do you plan for exhaust and wastegate plumbing?
I still have to get a new turbo, likely a T3, .48AR from Ebay.
What model turbo is the Garrett you're using? Looks as big as the brand new T04E .60AR I've got already (decided that was too big for the stock compression ratio of 10.5:1).
I installed MegaSquirt 'n Spark on my 318ti last year after the stock ECU ate it. I've got it tuned pretty well now, running normally aspirated. Looks like the stock injectors are 'banked out' at near 80% duty cycle on the stock motor/fuel pressure at WOT, so I plan to add a rising rate FPR to supply the extra pressure when the turbo gets installed. Of course, I'll be able to tweak the fuel map to fine tune the AFR and use the LC-1 WBo2 system for automatic feedback and tuning, so the problems inherent with using RRFPR's alone won't be a factor.
Best of luck, and I'll be watching your thread carefully.
Cheers,
Scott
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Very nice project. I look forward to reading and seeing more. I pick up my E30 318IS m42 next weekend and it has all the visual mods (Mtech 2 kit, rims) and I want to do the performance mods soon.
What sort of costs do you expect this initial setup to cost you? I know it often works out fairly expensive to do custom work, I will have a budget of about $2500 USD do you think that this would be enough to do a turbo job on a car performing most of the work myself? or should I save longer?
Thanks for your help,
Shaun
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great updates!
Have you checked if you're able to run the charge pipe that go from turbo compressor to the intercooler over the front "axle cross member"?
Usually the oil reducer is fitted in the turbo oil inlet, why you have it in the brass fitting? ;)
Remember to take some pics when fitting return line in the oil pan, for me! I need to do it soon, and possibily I'll do it with oilpan fitted, so I want to see where you'll drill.
thank you
keep taking pics and this thread will be a reference for a lot of people!
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Awesome thread!
My E36 is about to get turbocharged at the start of this summer so this thread is really a big help. Hope you get every thing working right and make sure to add more pretty pics :D
keep up the good work
Sand_man
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I bet it's already answered, but what manifold are you using? Where did you find it. Thanks
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Hey I've seen a guy take an M3 turbo manifold and he chopped the last 2 off and then welded a piece to cover the hole for a turbo manifold. I found a couple fairly cheap looking around that I'm planning on doing for my E36. Looks good man keep up the good work! Thanks for posting this as well!
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I was thinking about making a new downpipe alltogether. The 3" tubing is excessive and I think there may be problems with boost creep (in this low-pressure system) because the path through the turbo will have far less restriction than through the wastegate.
Also, there isn't adequate room under the car to run a full 3" exhaust all the way to the tail, especially around the rear sub-frame, so it will have to be reduced at some point along the way anyhow! I'd also like to integrate the wastegate dump into the downpipe because the wastegate will probably be dumping from about 2500 RPM up, and it'll just be too damn loud to have a straight wastegate exhaust all the way from 3000-7000 at full throttle...
Are you going to use the stock cat?
Are you sure you need the scavenge pump on the oil return? Looks like the bearings may be a couple inches above the oil line. What if you rotated the center section about 25-30 degrees clockwise (as viewed from the rear). I know the drain wouldn't be vertical, but it doesn't have to be exactly vertical. Corky Bell recommends +/- 30 degrees max.
Keep up the good work!
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Very cool project so far! You are a definite DIY mastermind!
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Does that oil pump just circulate oil between the turbo and an oil cooler in its own separate circuit or does it use crankcase oil? How how much electricity does it use?
I ran into the same problem with installing skinny injectors onto the E30 manifold. I guess the tip is a little different because it didn't have those pieces to reuse so I installed them with some 1/2 inch washers.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2159/2346412419_3b7eaa6550_b.jpg
Excellent project. Please keep updating. good luck
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Great project. What turbo did you decide to go with?
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the oil comes from the oil sending unit so it has to be return to the motor. the turbo im using is .48Ar and 42 Compresor so it shud spool right at 2000rpm but im tinking of changing the compresor to a 50trim because now i got the room for it ( the spacer that i installed on the manifold gave me room to upgrade the compresor but untill i finish and drive it .. will keep the small slug
will work on it tomorow so ill post some more pics then...
Great update! I hope that my t3 60 compressor will fit in there with my neukin manifold and internal wastegate:eek:
I like the return line in the valve cover, It's easy and don't have to drill the pan...
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I like the return line in the valve cover, It's easy and don't have to drill the pan...
+1
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If you can't see the pic, click on the link down:
(http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/p/s/20.png)
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BE53&mospid=47480&btnr=13_0372&hg=13&fg=15
As you see in that link, the valve is #1 and the broken vacuum hose go to the throttle body ;)
Mine is a bit different because I have a euro M44.
I love your work, just ask if you'll have other problems :)
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For OBDI:
Turn on ignition
Floor and release the throttle pedal 5 times within 5 seconds
Check engine light will blink any stored codes first
--- ignore the first 5s and 2.5s blink and 2.5s pause
Your 4 digit codes will now blink one after the other with a pause between each
Example:
____
____
____ ____ ____ ____
____
Would be 1141
To RESET the codes:
-Start by accessing codes (see above)
-After all of the codes have been shown, you should get a '1000' code, which will look like a 1/2 second light followed by nothing
-Floor the throttle pedal for at least 10 seconds
-Turn off ignition
-Check codes again
-1444 means the ECM has been cleared of codes
I've got the codes in my Bentley manual if you need to know what yours are telling you.
If its OBDII, I think you need a tool to reset/check the codes.
Cheers
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I know you're almost done and CONGRATULATIONS on the progress! I can't wait to hear what you have to say after you drive it!
Please don't take this as a flame by any means!! I'm no pro at welding by any means, but I've done it some and mine started off looking like yours.
I'm assuming (from the looks of it) that you're using an inexpensive wire-feed welder.
Just some tips I think will make things go more easily:
Make sure you've got flux-core wire.. if not, buy some, it's cheap! Solid core wire won't cut it without gas!
By the looks of it, your wire speed is TOO SLOW! The pop-corning is because you're breaking the arc over and over again. You may need to crank up the power a little bit too to support the faster wire. But I think this will make a huge improvement and allow you to lay down a continuous weld more easily. If you've already tried that, your wire may be slipping in the pinch-rollers and causing it to feed slowly or intermittently.
If you can add MIG gas (may require an optional valve), get some!! It's cheap too, I rent a cylinder from National Welders (local supply company) and it's like $65 a year, and only about $40 to have the tank filled. Well worth the money. When you get the MIG gas going, you'll wonder why you waited so long, it is sooooo much easier, and makes real pretty welds!
I've been down the same road with learning to weld (and not too long ago) I was blown away when I finally got a MIG tank and solid-core wire. NIght and day difference!
Best of luck!
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Well, I've got two, a BIG old 400 Amp Miller arc welder that I bought from a welding shop that was retooling ($1600 welder for $150!), but I usually use the MIG. It's from Harbor Freight.. got it on special for less than $188. I think the CO2 regulator was another $40 or so and then the tank rental... The MIG welder and gas I use at work occassionally and so I had the company pay for it.
If you search online, you can find coupons for discounts at Harbor Freight... usually 10-15% off. Definitely worth checking out before you buy anything there! Here's a page with coupons for example:
http://printable-coupons.blogspot.com/2006/07/harbor-freight-coupons.html
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Are you sure that oil pump will last enough in car, running all the time?
Have you seen lower locations for oil return beside the valve cover?
waiting to see it running!
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It could be main engine relay.
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Looks like interesting project. Some notification i would like to add after building several Turbo charged engines.
That exhaust manifold with wastegate attached it and now with some extension pipeing is not the best possible design in performace point of view.
Oil circulation is not the way i would build it; at least i would route returnline to oilpan. You might run into difficulties if your pump is efficent.
Air/fuel ratio; how are you going to handle it? It's not wise to run "rich enough", you should get decent A/C ratio.
Original flapper AFM might be too small for your configuration.
Just few thoughs, any how good work ;)
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i upgrade the wires to 8mm performance wires... EASY COSTUM job if you guys are intrested in how to do it let me know and ill post what parts to use .
I would really appreciate some details on this. My ignition wires are covered in cosmoline so they must be originals from 1991. LOL
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Wow thanks a lot! I'll give a try and let you know how it goes.
cheers
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the return line is working fine i just test drove the car for 2 days allready . the turbo set to low to tap the oil pan as return point. NOW you mention the floper ....yes i know exacly what you mean and im thinking the same on that i dont know what route to go...(if i remove the floper what wud happend? ) is there a MAF convertion for my car?? if you know please gime me some imput.. ill post some video tonight running at 8 psi... it feels great but the A/F is jumping lean for a split second in 3rd gear and goin back to rich... i havnt conect the lambada o2 yet but i figure that injectors #715 are 23% biger than stock and the fmu shud compensate for the rest.... now i dont know if the stupid flopers in the intake or in the maf are the cause of this...what is your take on this...?
If you remove the flapper from the AFM, the car won't run. The ECU is calculating air mass from the calibrated flapper and the temp sensor (hanging down in the airflow). The TPS is likely only being used for accel enrichment, full-throttle enrichment, and overrun fuel cut (hard deceleration/coasting).
MAF Conversion: http://bmw.e30tuner.com/articles_mafcon.php
The flapper in the intake system (the DISA valve) should be disconnected so that it no longer operates. It has an electric vacuum solenoid connected to the ECU which switches over at 4800 RPM (going up) and 4200 RPM (going down). Disconnect the vacuum line to the solenoid and that should stop it from operating. Alternatively, you could cut the wire that goes to PIN #18 in the engine harness. That wire activates the DISA valve solenoid.
You really should have that WBo2 in there if you're driving at anything close to full throttle... I found my M42's stock NB sensor to be pretty far off. The NB would also give false data when the engine sputters or misfires... and continued to give bad data for a second or two after the misfire. If you're relying on the lambda sensor to make substantial mixture corrections (which it must be doing with the new injectors when NOT under boost) you should install the WB, program the output to simulate a NB and connect it to the ECU in place of the NB. You'll get MUCH better mixture control when that is set up.
I don't know, but I doubt that the ECU is using the O2 data to make any larger than a 25% change in supplied fuel, no matter how far away from stoichiometric you get. Seems like your FMU and larger injectors may be overpowering the maximum lambda correction MOST of the time.
Where is the spot where the engine goes lean? (RPM, estimated throttle position).
Can't wait to see a vid! Congrats!
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Those videos turned out great
the car feels really good under boost, def quicker than it used to be
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congratulations , you work quick and have results! I wish you luck further.:)
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post my ripper vid on youtube.......
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+mtxmatrixx... Its looking really good so far... You moving really quickly... Wish i could do the same...
Congratulations!! Keep us updated!!
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why all post are deleted?:eek:
I was out for work this week and now I see all deleted!
where are the videos?
thank you
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why all post are deleted?:eek:
I was out for work this week and now I see all deleted!
where are the videos?
thank you
+1 :mad:
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WTF happen here any mods any info ??? :confused:
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WTF happen here any mods any info ??? :confused:
I still don't understand:confused:
if someone can explain this even if via private message is welcome:(
waiting for updates
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He is selling it on Ebay...
Heres the link...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-E36-M42-COSTUM-TURBO-KIT-COMPLETE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ019QQitemZ290220693484QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-E36-M42-COSTUM-TURBO-KIT-COMPLETE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ019QQitemZ290220693484QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW)
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He is selling it on Ebay...
Heres the link...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-E36-M42-COSTUM-TURBO-KIT-COMPLETE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ019QQitemZ290220693484QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-E36-M42-COSTUM-TURBO-KIT-COMPLETE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ019QQitemZ290220693484QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW)
nice bid ,maybe something happen with the engine, and he decide to sell the turbo kit
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He is selling it on Ebay...
Heres the link...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-E36-M42-COSTUM-TURBO-KIT-COMPLETE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ019QQitemZ290220693484QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-E36-M42-COSTUM-TURBO-KIT-COMPLETE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ019QQitemZ290220693484QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW)
Wow! Great price!
Too bad it won't fit inside my car cause its a right hand drive. The turbo will hit the steering column.... :(
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why he disappears?? thats the question!
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Apart from the one post that 95compact quoted they are all gone....
...Very strange /; l
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thats not the way to share :(
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motor explosion?
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why we care? i think we have better things to do than thinking about sth like that...!!
THREAD IS CLOSED ..:D
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...? Why did he stop posting? Thats disappointing I wanted to see some vids.
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Honestly I think I know why he stopped posting but I could be totally wrong lol. ( This is what I think happened or what he was thinking) The setup or "kit" he made did really well in his mind(even though he didn't get to drive it long.) Then he noticed that he did it so quickly and "cheap" that he probably seen a way to make a profit. Then he noticed an easy way to make more money and lol decided to stop sharing his info and will start selling the kit on ebay. Ok I know I could be WAY off but it doesn't seem farfetched right? Or lol he got the idea that it still wasn't fast enough, he would still need to put ALOT more money in it to get a BIG power gain and decided to sell. Anyways lol I think the first scenerio is what most likely happened but oh well. Also 318kid you can see some videos of it just go to the ebay site before the bid ends and look at thte videos on there.
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Also 318kid you can see some videos of it just go to the ebay site before the bid ends and look at thte videos on there.
What is the ebay # or URL?
-Thanks
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NM, found it
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Remember, he WAS talking about using this turbo system only as a stopgap measure until he had his stroker motor completed. Maybe he just decided to cut his losses on the turbo system and move back to the stroker build...
And hey, it's his money, his time and his choice to stop posting. So everyone who paid him for this information, go ahead and file a complaint. ;)
Either way, I hope he gives us some more of his results.
-95C
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im sorry guys if my actions lead anybody to belive that i wanted to profit from this or tha the motor got damage... The motor is still runing and the reason why i stop posting here in the site is because i was called a lier and bullshiter by someone dear to all of us here in the site . I will not go into details because thats not what we are here to do. Im sorry to all you guys...
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btw I wasn't trying to make +mtxmatrix look bad ( hope it didn't come off like that) I was just messing around and throwing ideas around. I was just joking about the whole profit thing but hopefully you'll forgive me if I came off the wrong way. SORRY!! :(
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i cannot see the pics nor the installion. please help
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Ok i have 42/36 1992 318is bmw. Can i get a turbo put on my car? If so where can i get it from?