M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => General Topics => Topic started by: sheepdog on February 26, 2008, 06:40:55 PM
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I need to do my bearings, and cannot locate the tool to borrow, so time to buy I guess.
Pelican wants $220 for the tool, no problem, but I will BE DAMNED if I will pay $50 to ship the thing ground and $155 to ship 3 day!
Anyone know of a cheaper route.
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If your trying to do the front hubs I made a tool for about $20 with things that can be purchased from your local Home Depot
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I need to do front and rear actually.
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pictures of tool? are you talking about a puller?
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There are 2 types, one is arbors, the other does install and removal.
One is supposed to be good, the other junk (not sure which is which).
Left side and right side...
http://www.technictool.com/bmwtools.htm
Pelican wants $50 to ship the one on the left ground.
I found it for about $20 less total on Ebay.
Overpaying on shipping just burns me.
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have you checked local stores? perhaps even the dealership?
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You'll have to excuse the lack of pictures from me right now as my internet connections sucks and I can't download at the moment.
With the first four tool sets, misc sockets, washers, etc, I was able to remove and replace my rear and front wheel bearings. It wasn't necessarily pretty and the first rear bearing took me eight hours of trial and error. The second bearing took me about three hours.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=8856
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=46389
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38335
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93980
I've ordered this set as well, although I'm not sure if the sleeve ID is in there that I need for future jobs.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=45210
Hopefully my internet connection will be repaired soon and I'll post pictures of my debacle.
Keith
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The Sir Tools B90 is heavy as heck!
Anyway, it makes bearing replacement take around an hour a side. A breeze, if you will.
EDIT: I borrowed mine from a local guy. I wish I had one to lend to a fellow 318is'er, but I don't! :(
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Looks like the one set that keflaman posted might work for our cars.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=45210
Check out the manual for the tool set:
http://www.harborfreight.com/manuals/45000-45999/45210.pdf
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It wasn't necessarily pretty and the first rear bearing took me eight hours of trial and error. The second bearing took me about three hours.
That alone worries me. Not so much the fiddling, but I have all 4 to do.
The thought of spending all weekend messing with this just seems like it is not worth it. I am not sure if that much of my time is worth saving $100
The Sir Tools B90 is heavy as heck!
Anyway, it makes bearing replacement take around an hour a side. A breeze, if you will.
Heavy is one thing, but when I can get it shipped from Ebay for half the price, a place known for outrageous shipping charges, I have to wonder. I have have heard and seen pelican be high on shipping but that is rediculous.
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have you checked local stores? perhaps even the dealership?
We have Harbor Frieght and other generic tool stores. The dealer is almost an hour away and I only use them when absolutely necessary, terrible place. I would almost rather pay Pelicans outrageous shipping just to avoid them.
So tempted to do just pay someone to do it, but I don't trust anyone to do it.
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http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd172/keflaman/BearingPusher.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd172/keflaman/BearingPusher1.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd172/keflaman/BearingPusher2.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd172/keflaman/BearingPusher3.jpg
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http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd172/keflaman/BearingPressPrep.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd172/keflaman/BearingPressPrep1.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd172/keflaman/BearingPressPrep2.jpg
My bearings were shot so badly the hubs were frozen in them and the bearings were frozen in the trailing arms. After using the puller to remove the hub, I used the bearing press to break the bearings out of position and get them moving.
After the bearings broke free I switched back to the three legged puller to finish removing the bearings.
HTH. Keflaman
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Zoso has a good writeup on his site for the fronts. I don't think he had any special tools to do it.
The rears...they are a bitch. The bearing sleeves like to come off and be stuck onto the hub. I paid a local shop $40 to swap out the old ones and put on the new ones. Just go that route for the rears.
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Zoso has a good writeup on his site for the fronts. I don't think he had any special tools to do it.
The rears...they are a bitch. The bearing sleeves like to come off and be stuck onto the hub. I paid a local shop $40 to swap out the old ones and put on the new ones. Just go that route for the rears.
That is actually the part I am least concerned about doing.
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I've done both front and rear. It's obvious which part of the bearing should be used for each part. I used a wheel puller from harbor freight to pull the front off. The inner race that stays on the spindle can be nudged with a chisel. The spindle nut will pull in the fronts by applying pressure to the inner race only. I used all thread for the rears. You can tap the rear into the trailing arm hitting the outer race only. When it's as far as it will go you can use the old outer race as a drift to go the rest of the way. I used the rear nut in the socket to pull the hub into the inner race and the old inner race on the inside. The only way to go wrong is to stress the inner and outer races at the same time. This damages the bearing.
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