M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => Swaps, Turbos, Buildups => Topic started by: 1991 E30 M42 on August 19, 2007, 09:59:02 PM
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After months of work, research, parts gathering, machine work, and powder coating, my engine is almost finished, and will be going in the car within the next week.
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Beautiful!
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you cant make a post like this and not include details
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M44 50 over MaxSil pistons, Sealed Power rings, M44 Rods, M44 crank, Fidanza flywheel, S52 Clutch, completely rebuilt head ( new valve guides, springs, valves, valve stem seals) shaved 10 thousandths, all internals are balanced, new oil pump, pickup tube, timing chain, timing rails, new injectors, fpr, Mark D 93 octane chip, everything outside is powder coated, UUC Motorwerks Oil Center, throttle body coolant hose bypass, removed hose nest under manifold and replacing with Samco Sport silicone hoses, header wrap, Ireland engineering Urethane engine mounts, soon to have silicone radiator hoses, electric fan, mustang injectors
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One thing I forgot, I'm going to be using Volkswagen lifters.
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we share the same oil cap;) what kind of oil filter cover is that? looks like a nice motor. what displacement will it be at?
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umm i dont think the s52 clutch fits in the bellhousing?
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we share the same oil cap;) what kind of oil filter cover is that? looks like a nice motor. what displacement will it be at?
UUC Motorwerks, close to 2.0
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umm i dont think the s52 clutch fits in the bellhousing?
It does with the Fidanza flywheel
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what do you think your peak hp will be?
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what do you think your peak hp will be?
I'm hoping for at least 180, but I won't know till i put the car on the dyno. Things are looking in my favor, the crank is a pound lighter than the M42, the rods are lighter, the flywheel weighs 11 pounds, and the lifters are lighter.
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Sweet.
How much did it cost to get all those parts powder coated?
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$300
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So good looking it doesn't matter that it also makes 180 HP. The front covers especially are copacetic
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I am so jealous, it is not even funny. Someday my engine will be that clean, as soon as I drop my other cash-eating hobbies. Nice work!
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i like the color you chose, nice, simple and clean. hey let me know how those motor mounts work out, i have been thinking about getting some for a long time time now but like a quite, and smooth cabin.....just wondering howw quite they are.
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Nicely done! Congrads! :D
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removed hose nest under manifold and replacing with Samco Sport silicone hoses
I for one would like to see some pictures of how you sort out this.
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I had the pleasure to actually see this thing, simply beautiful. This guy truly knows what he is doing, great stuff Eric. When and if I get enough money together for a turbo build I want this man in on it. Thanks for the parts by the way, car runs like a champ.
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Any in-car picts?
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Not yet
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Not yet
Before you had the parts powder coated, what did you do to prep the parts? Did you remove all the grease/oil and cosmoline? Or did they shop take care of that?
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How much did the Fidanza Flywheel cost? How mm is the S52 Clutch? Do you use only the disk or the whole set S52 Clutch?
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Its a masterpiece...it looks a lot like mine...even picked the same valve cover colour.....
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OK I know this is redundant, but I wanted to be SURE M50/M42 oil filter caps were interchangeable. I looked it up on realoem.com and it checks out.
My biggest question (like many other people) is how that Samco kit is going to eliminate the cooling system hose NIGHTMARE on our cars. Please provide details and pics!!
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M44 50 over MaxSil pistons, Sealed Power rings, M44 Rods, M44 crank, Fidanza flywheel, S52 Clutch, completely rebuilt head ( new valve guides, springs, valves, valve stem seals) shaved 10 thousandths, all internals are balanced, new oil pump, pickup tube, timing chain, timing rails, new injectors, fpr, Mark D 93 octane chip, everything outside is powder coated, UUC Motorwerks Oil Center, throttle body coolant hose bypass, removed hose nest under manifold and replacing with Samco Sport silicone hoses, header wrap, Ireland engineering Urethane engine mounts, soon to have silicone radiator hoses, electric fan, mustang injectors
What color silver is on the parts? I'm getting some parts done and can't seem to find a bright enough silver like yours. What brand/color code is it?
Thanks!!!
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It turns out that the Flywheel that Fidanza manufactures for a 91 318is doesn't fit a 91 318is, the flywheel makes contact with the inside of the bellhousing. The powdercoat color is called Super Chrome, the heater hose bypass, i am going to use 2 elbows to go from the plastic pipe to the nipple on the cylinder head ant i'm going to use a combination of straight hose and elbows and reducers to go straight from the valve cover and the IAC to the intake boot.
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The oil filter cap fits, I had it on the engine for about a year before it blew.
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It's nice! Keep it NA and it will be a great backroad burner :D
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Too much compression to boost it anyway
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It turns out that the Flywheel that Fidanza manufactures for a 91 318is doesn't fit a 91 318is, the flywheel makes contact with the inside of the bellhousing.
Can you elaborate a little more on this? Is it the flywheel itself or the clutch? My impression was the flywheel would work, but the clutch had to be a standard 318is or possibly the M20 clutch setup.
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This flywheel is made to use the S52 clutch, and it turns out that that the Fidanza flywheel that i have is for an E36
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I finally got all of the issues straightened out and put the engine in the car, and it is amazing. I haven't gone over 3500 rpm but everything feels great. The Volkswagen lifters work and make no noise, the Metric Mechanic Flywheel and clutch work unlike the Fidanza, the coolant bypass doesn't leak, but more importantly it runs good and looks good.
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ballin ;). How much of a difference did the FW make, and how heavy is it? This is going to be one of my next mods, and I'm trying to decide what the best deal is.
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I'm not sure yet how much difference the flywheel has made, I haven't really gotten of the car, as the new engine only has 74 miles on it right now. The MM flywheel weighs 9 pounds 10 ounces, and the whole assembly; flywheel, clutch and pressure plate; weighs 24 pounds 4 ounces, but my dad has a lightened single mass flywheel that weighs 17 pounds and it made a huge difference.
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Post up some Vids once you get it running good. Looks SO clean!
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put some miles on it and let us know how it feels!
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It has 160 miles on it now, and I will be posting pictures of the throttle coolant bypass and the Samco Sport hoses for the ICV and crank case breather.
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heres a small preview
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I have about 400 miles on it now, and I finally got on it and it was amazing. The car barely gets traction in first gear and once you get into second it just throws you back. I have driven quicker cars, but this one Is very impressive for a car that is meant to handle not accelerate.
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Wow very cool project. What injectors are you using?
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19lb mustang
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Can you post up your Samco source for the hoses? Thanks. I'm liking the way things look so far, I pondering doing the same hoses for my rebuild. I've already gotten my parts powder coated...:0
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Samco Sport Hoses are currently available through the following companies in the USA:
Brits Inc
California
USA
tel. +1 707 935 3637
fax. +1707 935 0942
samco@sporthoses.com
http://www.sporthoses.com
Motovicity Distribution
Michigan
USA
tel +001 888 Speed 16 (Toll free)
tel. +001 248 307 1570
fax. +001 248 307 2573
sales@silhoses.com
http://www.silhoses.com
Options Auto Salon
California
USA
tel. +001 800 678 2886 (USA/Canada)
tel. +001 626 812 7220 (International)
fax. +001 626 812 7221
orders@optauto.com
http://www.optionsauto.com/samco
TW Import
Concord
New Hampshire
USA
tel: +603 229 0494
fax: +603 229 0494
http://www.twimport.com
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Very nice work.
Just wondering about the vw valve lifters. They require any other work to be done to install, and would you have a part number for them at all??
Thanks
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Need to get something straight here -
you're using a V-belt over a serpentine pulley?
(http://www.m42club.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1446&d=1187585702)
How is this working? wont the serpentine lines cut the V-belt?
im swapping in a 1996 M42 into my car and have an issue with the A/C since its a V-belt compressor and my engine pulley is all serpentine.
is this mix usable?
How does it feel over time?
Ron.
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hey. on one of the pictures i saw the intake and the outtake. why you didnt cut the valve guides? i have a similar project here in switzerland.
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I have seen this engine run, and from what I can tell, the VW lifters work just fine. Oil pressure is good. No other work needed. Just soak them in oil and try to prime them, then drop them in. Big savings in valve train weight. I don't have a part #, but a search should pull it up. There were a few good discussions about them previously.
As far as the pulley goes, look closer, it is a v-belt pulley. You're right, a v-belt wont work on a serpentine pully.
As for cutting the valve guides, good idea. We didn't think of it. Every little bit helps when you're trying to get this engine to breath better, but as others have mentioned, the weak link in the intake system is the cams. Too much $$ to upgrade the head with new cams. This engine has about $1600 in it, including the M44 crank, rods, and pistons. Cams would have cost another $750-$1000. Didn't make sense.
Eric installed the Mark D 93 chip this past week. And he now has about 1600 miles on the engine. He says it is pretty awsome. He has really been babying it to break it in good. He's about ready to switch over to synthetic oil and let er rip. We'll post some times when we get em.
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The engine looks great, I would love to get a closer look at it sometime as I live in chesapeake and work at a shop in va beach. Did the Mark D chip give it a decent boost for power when you put it in?
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Someday (probably after a rebuild :() my M42 will be that clean.
Look forward to seeing a dyno sheet for this motor.
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The P/N of the lifters I used is 050109309H.
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The P/N of the lifters I used is 050109309H.
Solid lifters? Got any pic of them?
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hydraulic. I have on pictures of the but if you want to see them, look at your BMW lifters, they are identical
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Ah, thought you've fitted solid ones :( No need to look at them then, thnx anyway :)
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heres a small preview
What size samco hoses did you use for the TB hose delete mod?
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What size samco hoses did you use for the TB hose delete mod?
To do it properly you need a regular elbow and a reducer elbow, because the plastic nipple is larger than the metal nipple on the cylinder head. As far as the sizes, I'm not sure of the sizes as it was a while ago that I purchased them, I used a digital caliper to determine the size of the hoses. I will look and see if I can find the receipts and tell you the size of the hoses.
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hello,
well done on a great rebuild an d the best of luck with it....
why did you use the m44 parts instead of the m42.... i tought the m44 parts were cast... and the m42 fordged...?
i just got a second m42 with 110K out and just about to start a rebuild it my first rebuild....
well done again and cheers.
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We bought a M44 crank, rods, 2nd oversize pistons,and rings, for $300 on e-bay. All brand new in the boxes. We had been toying with the idea of building up a motor, and this deal came along. Yeah I know about the M42 parts being forged and all. But the M44 crank has a longer stroke, and the pistons had a much larger bore than the M42. It was a no-brainer to go this way. With all the other tips we picked up here and on other web sites, we came up with a game plan that so far has worked out perfect. We are ready to go a bit farther on the next project, a built M42 in a 2002. Looking for the right body to start with.
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Regarding the 2 Samco 90 degree Samco hoses used in the throttle body heat bypass setup, did you find that the hoses were in the way of anything? Seems like the temp sender right behind it might be in the way. Anything else in the way?
Thanks...in the process of getting mine back together, too.
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We bought a M44 crank, rods, 2nd oversize pistons,and rings, for $300 on e-bay. All brand new in the boxes. We had been toying with the idea of building up a motor, and this deal came along. Yeah I know about the M42 parts being forged and all. But the M44 crank has a longer stroke, and the pistons had a much larger bore than the M42. It was a no-brainer to go this way. With all the other tips we picked up here and on other web sites, we came up with a game plan that so far has worked out perfect. We are ready to go a bit farther on the next project, a built M42 in a 2002. Looking for the right body to start with.
Unless you are using a big turbo or homemade blower setup pushing some serious numbers, the m44 crank will more than handle anything you can push. People put too much emphasis on forged parts when in reality, it is actually not needed in most cases.
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Regarding the 2 Samco 90 degree Samco hoses used in the throttle body heat bypass setup, did you find that the hoses were in the way of anything? Seems like the temp sender right behind it might be in the way. Anything else in the way?
Thanks...in the process of getting mine back together, too.
There was a little issue with the coolant temp sensor but it works fine, the only issue was that you have to pull on the hose a little so you can get the connector on but once it was on there is plenty of room.
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To do it properly you need a regular elbow and a reducer elbow, because the plastic nipple is larger than the metal nipple on the cylinder head. As far as the sizes, I'm not sure of the sizes as it was a while ago that I purchased them, I used a digital caliper to determine the size of the hoses. I will look and see if I can find the receipts and tell you the size of the hoses.
Were you ever able to locate the receipt that had the sizes of the hoses? THx
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very very clean build. like alot of other people here, im in the middle of my build as we speak and its threads like this that give really good ideas. well done bro
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Were you ever able to locate the receipt that had the sizes of the hoses? THx
I couldn't find them. Just get a cheap digital caliper from auto-zone and measure the low spots on the nipples and get the hose size that is closest or a little smaller than the size of the nipple.
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The P/N of the lifters I used is 050109309H.
It's not easy to sift thru all the past discussions even if I have read it somewhere in the forum.. Any idea which VW model did they come from?
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http://www.fourseasontuning.com/ is where I bought them and according to FST they fit 1.8, 2.0 and VR6 engines
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Sorry to bump this but I want to see more pictures, and maybe a vid. What all did you do to the engine. Thanks
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If you read through the thread everything that i have done to the engine is listed. As for os videos, it may take a little while as I am putting on new fenders, Euro smileys and grills
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how much did the entire process cost you?
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As of now there is about $2000 into it and there is still more to come.
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I finally spent some more money and purchased an air fuel ratio meter and found out that under heavy load, my stock fuel pressure regulator doesn't enrich at a fast enough rate and takes a second to catch up with fuel consumption so I decided to do something about it. I took one of my spare fuel rails and welded a plate over where the fpr sits and taped it so I could put a gauge in it and now I use an Aeromotive external fpr and the difference is amazing. The car has so much power off idle and under load always runs almost a perfect 14.7 afr.
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what kind of air fuel meter you got?,It's a NB or a WB ?
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I have an Autometer narowband connected to a heated o2 sensor. A friend of mine has an Innovative Lm1 and thats what I used to get my fuel pressure right and make sure it wasn't going lean.
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I have an Autometer narowband connected to a heated o2 sensor. A friend of mine has an Innovative Lm1 and thats what I used to get my fuel pressure right and make sure it wasn't going lean.
Any info on how to setup something like you have? Would be cool to have an AFR gauge.
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A narrowband afr gauge is very easy to install. They usually have an ignition hot a ground and a sensor wire that you can hook up to the sensor wire on your existing o2 sensor or its own 4 wire o2 sensor. If you choose to use a separate o2 sensor for the gauge the o2 sensor has a power and ground for the heater element, a 12 volt ignition hot supply for the sensor input and another wire for the sensor output that connects to the gauge. another thing to think about is gauge location. I made a custom panel to replace the obc and mounted my gauge in it.
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Is the gauge adjustable?
That value of 14.7...is that a standard?
Thanks!
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no the gauge isnt adjustable and a narrowband wont tell you your exact afr, it jist gives you an idea if your lean or rich. A wideband will tell you your exact afr. 14.7 is the afr that after combustion there is no oxygen and no fuel left so your neither lean or rich, its a stoichiometric afr.
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What kind of machining was required on the M44 crank? Are you using the balancer from the M44 as well? When i look on RealOEM.com, it appears the nose of the crank is quite a bit different.. Also, what about CrankPosition Sensor, are you using the front like M42, or the rear like M44? Thanks so much!
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What kind of machining was required on the M44 crank? Are you using the balancer from the M44 as well? When i look on RealOEM.com, it appears the nose of the crank is quite a bit different.. Also, what about CrankPosition Sensor, are you using the front like M42, or the rear like M44? Thanks so much!
I didn't notice this post till now, no machining was required for the m44 crank, but the crank mounted trigger wheel was removed and the crank required quite a bit of weight to balance it
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the crank mounted trigger wheel was removed and the crank required quite a bit of weight to balance it
you mean weight was added back to the crank? or removed?
have you had it on a dyno? what's the ass dyno say?
i'm basically gathering and building the same engine you have, picking up my 5/95 build m42 in a week ;) $350 w/118k miles on it, 318ti owner swapping to 6 cylinders.
You still running the stock cams?
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Weight was added to the crank, last time i dyno'd it made a bit over 180 but alot had been done since the build, wild cams, different head, steel multi-layered head gasket, different exhaust, was running ms2 for a but now its on a custom eprom, hopefully soon it will have a WAR chip
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Are you running the stock spark plugs? if not, do you have p/n for colder plugs? how wild of cams? what's the idle like? webcamshafts.com? how much porting of the head?
i'm thinking i will not try to squeeze too much out of this engine, and revamp the engine that's currently in the car for turbo on MS.
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I am not sure what plugs are in it, i bought 16 plugs total in 4 different ranges, cams are catcams the wildest ones they have for hydraulic lifters, at idle it cams its ass off if i set it low. for porting, I mainly smoothed out the ports and port matched the intake to the head and the upper to the lower, and ported the throttle body then polished everything. I would not reccomend my cams for a turbo build, they have too much overlap, you may need to have someone make some to your own spec.
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Which Aeromotive FPR did you end up going with? I am starting to suspect that my FPR is causing trouble, so I may as well put something adjustable in.
Also, are you still running the stock fuel pump?
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AEI-13301/
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sounds like you car has come along way from the original upgrade. Would be good to see an updated dyno run :)
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I dont know where my printout went but if i find it ill post it. My next step is a turbo build, and when I say turbo build i mean not a budget build, It will be done right I just have to track down the turbo I want and find a decent price on an AEM
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Sounds Good...I know about doing it right, probably the only issue I have is my tiny turbo :D
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So I am avoiding at all cost the epic..."Uze teh serch button Noob" response by everyone while still getting more info, hence the 2 year old bump.
anyways...
Is this motor still running strong? Ive just bought another m42 motor and was planning on starting something like this. I know everyone really likes the m47 crank idea but i really dont think thats what im going for. I like the m44 crank idea with s50/52 pistons.
My goal isnt a certain number as far as horsepower...really i could care less i just know i want it to be a little faster. I plan on spending more time with the head to get better response.
My dad always taught me there is a difference in a fast car and a quick car. After several hpde and other track events im learning to appreciate this. Ive decided...i dont want a fast car...I want a quick car and thats why i picked the 318 over the I6 motors. Let me know your guys' thoughts and chime in if you have any advice.
thanks
Also in all my countless hours of forums searching i found this link to be of some use and added it to my favorites. Its a stupid personal thing i guess but i like the thought of having a 2.0 Liter. I have owned an ungodly amount of prelude all of which were 2 liter. Just seems like the right thing to do lol.
http://84.45.115.78/e30zonewiki/index.php?title=M42_Stroker_Info&redirect=no
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The M44 crank is a great option for those of us in the US who do not have access to the M47 stuff at decent prices. Alsothe M47 crank gives a less desirable rod ratio.
If I had my engine torn down, I would source a M44 crank to put in it.
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I'm in with previous posts. Very interested in an update on how the reliability of the engine has held up. Thanks op
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I'm in with previous posts. Very interested in an update on how the reliability of the engine has held up. Thanks op
Sorry I just saw this post, the engine is still running great and making plenty of power but unfortunately the car was wrecked about 6 months ago and is not salvageable so I am on the lookout for a new shell