M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => Engine + Driveline => Topic started by: 91318isguy on July 02, 2007, 12:18:53 PM
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Hi guys,
I thought I just had a one-time issue with my first is... but upon removing my current vehicles oil pan I saw again... 2 bolts that had worked themselves free from what looks like the upper pan. Is this something I should worry about and take it to get it checked professionally? All the other bolts seem tight. I just have a bit of a fear that I'll be motoring along a nice curvy road and lose it because my crank comes apart. The two times this was found it looked like it was the same place on both cars.
Any suggestions would be great.
By they way, I have a ton of spare parts I'm looking to get rid of. I'll put a list on the FS thread.
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Well, your crank will not come apart. That's the good news.
Your oil pump might blow though. There are 2 risks here. One is having stuff get sucked up into the sump and either clogging the feed, or actually getting into th pump and blowing it apart (I experienced the latter). The other is if the bolts are the front ones. Having them fall out unclamps the upper oil pan gasket, which can cause it to suck in at high oil feed rates. Then you get air in the pump and a dea motor. Definitely Loc-Tite them back in, helicoiling if necessary.
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It is something to worry about, but only if not found.
Many owners never pull the pans and find out, or they find out too late.
Now that you found it and can treat it, you are fine.
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I'd seen the earlier thread and finally got around to pulling the pan today: one bolt out and a couple of others loose. The engine has 120K miles on it. All six removed and replaced with medium thread lock.
The good news was how clean the inside of the pan was!
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Yeah,
That is one really good thing is that I found it. It's just the images of "what could be" if you didn't find it and the freaking out about what else may be wrong in the engine. Has anyone else who has found this found other bolts to be loose?
I'll see how it feels after I start it up in a few days. I'm doing a complete front suspension swap on my new IS. I only had a year on my wrecked IS suspension (brand new control arms, control arm ball joints, new tie rod ends, strut tower housings... lots of money). I'm also trying to swap the steering rack. The guy I bought it from said it needed to be rebuilt or replaced and was going to do it and add 1000 onto the price of the car. I told him don't worry about it (I have one that is just fine (I hope). So... lets cross what ever we can cross to hope this all works.
Just a quick question then I have to leave for a bit... Has anyone else encountered a slight humming in the rear. It doesn't sound like differential or CV stuff. The guy I bought the car from has Kelly tires on it. Could it be the tire? While I have the rear suspension apart, should I swap the bearings. Any thoughts would be great.
Oh, and I'm getting some loctite today.
Talk to you all later,
91318isguy
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Good work on fending THIS off!
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/oilfailure/bmw011.jpg)
The rear humming might be the tires. Did it change intensity when you turned a certain direction? That would indicate wheel bearings. Check the guibo and center support bearing too.
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What is that a picture of? Is that damage to a diff?
The noise didn't seem to change with turning. My buddy who picked up the car for me said it didn't sound like it. I'm going to change the fluid back there and maybe that would help.
Anyone see problems with Valvoline 75W90 synthetic?
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What is that a picture of? Is that damage to a diff?
The pic is a busted oil pump gear from debris getting into it from the oil pump inlet I'm assuming.
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ooooo, that sucks (no pun intended).
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The humming may also be wear on the ring and pinion in the diff. Almost all e30's I've been in have it to some extent, and it is usually loudest around 50 mph. It is nothing to worry about, though.
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The pic is a busted oil pump gear from debris getting into it from the oil pump inlet I'm assuming.
Yep, timing housing and pump assembly.
Funny, look at the bottom ad in the middle, "Donate you car".
I almost did after this happened to me. It is quite a time consuming and expensive repair.
10 minutes of work saves so much money and so many hours of frustration.
I think BMWman91 got out of this sort of disaster the cheapest at a few hundred bucks. Mine ran me around $400 or $500. That was doing it ourselves and using used parts and help from the community. To pay a shop to do the repair would probably run around $2000 at the moment. Over half is parts alone.
Shot of my pump, desintegrated at 6k. My timing housing made Bmwman91's look good.
(http://www.m42club.com/images/pumpsuck/IMG_3944.jpg)
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So you don't think the humming is something I should address? Anyone replacing a rear wheel bearing have the size socket I need for that nut? The front nut is larger.
Anyone seen the new Transformers movie yet? I thought I saw at least 2 if not 3 Beemers get toasted (A 740IL and what looks like an 80's model 5 series). Why? That's all I ask... Why? :(
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So you don't think the humming is something I should address? Anyone replacing a rear wheel bearing have the size socket I need for that nut? The front nut is larger.
Anyone seen the new Transformers movie yet? I thought I saw at least 2 if not 3 Beemers get toasted (A 740IL and what looks like an 80's model 5 series). Why? That's all I ask... Why? :(
If there is a slight humming coming from your diff and you know you have fresh fluids then I wouldn't sweat it. If it's from your rear bearings, you're driving on borrowed time but they usually get really bad in noise before they fail.
Rear bearings are a pain and often requires genuine BMW specific tools or some diy fabricated substitutions. That is one thing I would rather pay someone to do.
As for Transformers, I missed the 7 series but did see an E28 and my beloved Aprilia bike get laid down. Funny thing is they dubbed in an inline 4 instead of a v-twin sound on the bike. The Aprilias have a 60 degree v-twin but I would've settled for at least a regular v-twin sound instead of the inline. :rolleyes:
Major GM strategic move though but I doubt this will get them back on top of Toyota. :rolleyes:
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You mean the last part when the military guy laid it down and slid under the robot? I thought that looked like a GSXR.
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I had four come loose from my lower pan, its this is hte case you will be loosing a lot of oil.
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You mean the last part when the military guy laid it down and slid under the robot? I thought that looked like a GSXR.
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Nope. It's an Aprilia. You can clearly see the decal on the lower side of the bike.
(http://www.maxmoto.co.uk/images/Aprilia%20RSV%20Mille%202005.jpg)
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Ah, my bad. Got to get to work now.
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Random thing I just learned. Output bearings on the diff commonly go bad and make a bit of noise. The only real way to tell is to look at the diff. If one side is covered with more crap than the other, with a significant difference, this may be the case.
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My diff, CV's and shafts are all clean. It seems like either there is no fluid (just kidding, I'm going to swap in fresh fluid in a few days before I start driving it) or the previous owner took really good care of it.
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Just dropped the lower pan-no bolts in the pan, and none of them were remotely close to loose. I think my engine may have had work on it-it has helicoils in the head, among other things-and these may have been tightened then.
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Just dropped the lower pan-no bolts in the pan, and none of them were remotely close to loose. I think my engine may have had work on it-it has helicoils in the head, among other things-and these may have been tightened then.
Most likely a Profile gasket victim.
You also may have had a mechanic do the work who knew what he was doing.
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Most likely a Profile gasket victim.
You also may have had a mechanic do the work who knew what he was doing.
Same thing happened to my car with the heilcoils except I had to put them in for my valve cover because the dumb ass that took it off last stripped out every thread of every bolt in the head for the valve cover. And the previous owner had all work done at there local BMW Dealer (Hacks). PITA
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Most likely a Profile gasket victim.
This is pretty much what I was thinking, as it had new gaskets, tensioner, chain, and other small things replaced, and it looks like it was done right.
The profile gasket must have been done at some point, as my car has a march, 1990 build date.
Something else I have recently discovered-my car doesn't have central locking. I guess some early american cars didn't have it, after all.
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Same thing happened to my car with the heilcoils except I had to put them in for my valve cover because the dumb ass that took it off last stripped out every thread of every bolt in the head for the valve cover. And the previous owner had all work done at there local BMW Dealer (Hacks). PITA
Those strip VERY easy.
In fact anything into aluminum on these engines strip easy.
Torque wrench everything or kiss it goodbye.
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Speaking of torque wrenches Sheepdog... do you know on the nuts to the subframe from the control arm, if I'm using the 3/8 18" extension, how much torque loss there is. It calls for 62 ft lbs. Would there be much loss, where I would have to adjust it higher due to being a distance away?
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Speaking of torque wrenches Sheepdog... do you know on the nuts to the subframe from the control arm, if I'm using the 3/8 18" extension, how much torque loss there is. It calls for 62 ft lbs. Would there be much loss, where I would have to adjust it higher due to being a distance away?
Problem is, it changes based on the amount of torque you are applying as well as the length.
I once saw a formula for it, but I have no idea where it is. Personally I would torque to spec +5 or 10% and if I did not think it was enough add a bit more based on calibrated elbow. 5-10 is within tolerance for the connection so it should be safe as far as stripping it, and should with any luck be tight enough to stay tight.
I would re-check it after a few days as well.
I looked around on the net but everyone either wants to sell you software to tell you, or they have some complicated bundle of hoops to jump through to figure it out.