M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
FAQ / REFERENCE => How-To's => Topic started by: tjts1 on June 06, 2007, 02:22:28 PM
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Reading through the various methods and debates out there about changing the timing chain tensioner, most call for installing the tensioner compressed as it comes out of the box, then once installed rev the engine to 3500 rpm and cross your fingers the loose chain will slap the chain rail against the tensioner to release it before the chain jumps a tooth or 3. The whole reasoning behind this method is that you won't be able to install the chain tensioner once its extended. I don't know how this idea got started but I think its WRONG. Here's my simplified method.
1. Remove the old tensioner via the 19mm bolt on the passenger side of the engine. Once out it will look like this. Old extended tensioner is on the right, M44 style compressed tensioner on the left.
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1325/533484828_cd4127e2f1_o.jpg)
2. De compress the new tensioner by pressing the ends down against the table with your hand and twist about 1/4 turn. It will pop out and look like this.
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1108/533584601_5ec4defc88_o.jpg)
As you can see fully extended the new tensioner is slightly longer than the old tensioner. This is due to wear on the old tensioner spring and part of the reason why it needs to be replaced.
3. Install the new tensioner the same way the old one came out. When you reach the point where you need to thread the cap back in, apply pressure to the tensioner. My guess is that it takes about 20 lb of pressure to compress the spring with one hand on the head of the cap. Its not that hard to compress. The cap can then be tightened by hand when the threads catch.
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1098/533484882_2444eac0a6_o.jpg)
4. Tighten the cap with a 19mm wrench to torque spec. Since I don't have a torque wrench just used my own estimate. Remember that the threads are in aluminum so don't over do it. Think of of it as an oil drain plug. I removed the valve cover to paint it as well as inspect the timing chain gears but its not necessary. In the red circle you can see the head of the new tensioner fully extended.
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1379/533500012_0292dc5e5e_o.jpg)
5. Once everything is buttoned up, start the engine and let it idle. You will get a very loud chain noise for a split second until oil pressure reaches the tensioner, then it will get quiet all of a sudden. You don't have to rev the engine. Just let it idle for a minute or so. It should give you time to check for oil leaks from the tensioner bolt.
Remember that this isn't the only way to replace the tensioner. The 2 articles below outline a different method that has been proven to work effectively many times over. I'm just offering another alternative that worked for me.
http://www.bmwe30.net/cgi-bin/datacgi/database.cgi?file=articles&report=view&ID=00072&Section=08
http://www.esatclear.ie/~bpurcell/318isfaults.html#timingchaintensioner
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great info and a great how-to .
Unfortunately for me I just replaced my tensioner .I did the cross my fingers and rev to 3500 method.
Everthing worked out but still a tense moment.
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i did it by installing it decompressed with no problems as well. Seemed like the sensible thing to do to me.
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Does anyone know when should we change parts 17, 8 and 10?
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BE51&mospid=47425&btnr=11_1370&hg=11&fg=25 (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BE51&mospid=47425&btnr=11_1370&hg=11&fg=25)
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Does anyone know when should we change parts 17, 8 and 10?
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BE51&mospid=47425&btnr=11_1370&hg=11&fg=25 (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BE51&mospid=47425&btnr=11_1370&hg=11&fg=25)
A lot of info on the subject here.
http://www.esatclear.ie/~bpurcell/318ismaintenance.html#timingchain
Good luck.
By the way, I was born in Bucuresti. I speak some Romanian but writing is a bit tougher. Moved to the US in 1990.
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Does anyone know when should we change parts 17, 8 and 10?
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BE51&mospid=47425&btnr=11_1370&hg=11&fg=25 (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BE51&mospid=47425&btnr=11_1370&hg=11&fg=25)
If the tensioner is kept in check, the guides will go for a VERY long time. Much longer than 100k, but only if the tensioner is not allowed to wear out.
Cheap insurance is replacing the tensioner every 40k.
To my knowledge, none of this has an official service interval.
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A lot of info on the subject here.
http://www.esatclear.ie/~bpurcell/318ismaintenance.html#timingchain
Good luck.
By the way, I was born in Bucuresti. I speak some Romanian but writing is a bit tougher. Moved to the US in 1990.
Holy crap.... another Romo in the house. What are the odds of this. LOL
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A lot of info on the subject here.
http://www.esatclear.ie/~bpurcell/318ismaintenance.html#timingchain (http://www.esatclear.ie/%7Ebpurcell/318ismaintenance.html#timingchain)
Good luck.
By the way, I was born in Bucuresti. I speak some Romanian but writing is a bit tougher. Moved to the US in 1990.
Glad to know it! :D
Holy crap.... another Romo in the house. What are the odds of this. LOL
Dude, there's something fishy going' on here. :D
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So this is the best/safest/ most recommended way to replace the chain tensioner?
I'm going to do mine in a few weeks.
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So this is the best/safest/ most recommended way to replace the chain tensioner?
I'm going to do mine in a few weeks.
Ignore pulling the cover.
Instead, pop the new tensioner prior to install.
It makes it only a little more difficult (easy job still) and ensures no problems.
Takes 5 minutes to change it this way.
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Thank you very much!
I still think this is one of the best boards I've ever registred. I'm sorry that I'm not more active here, have some other boards that take allready a lot of my time.
Keep up the good work though!
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I did it this easy way and it worked like a charm. (decompressing the tensioner first and applying pressure to 19mm cap to thread to install ) There still was some brief slapping while the tensioner was filling up with oil and coming up to pressure, but worked well.
Thanks for the post!
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Thanks for the writeup, I will need to do this eventually.
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+1
Did this when I fired up my engine for the first time the other day. Does make a lot of noise for maybe 5-6 seconds and then you're good to go.
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Worked like a charm. My chain noise disappeared almost instantly and I can't believe how much smoother and quieter the motor is.
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Would it make sense to soak the tensioner in fresh motor oil before installing it?
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Would it make sense to soak the tensioner in fresh motor oil before installing it?
Possibly. My guess is it will just squeeze out until the oil coming from the engine gets to it. Not sure how much is compresses upon startup though.
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Would it make sense to soak the tensioner in fresh motor oil before installing it?
It will be more difficult to install it, because the oil wil prevent the tensioner to be pressed in. Because you need to press it in when installing, I wouldn't do it.
You can try to reinstall your old tensioner first, that will still be full of oil and you will note that it'll be hard to press in.
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y
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y
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I just changed my tensioner and my car sounded like a deisel for on or about 1 and a half, then it quietened down and I still kind of hear chain rolling. Am I supposed to here the chain?
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correction a minute and a half
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I just changed my tensioner and my car sounded like a deisel for on or about 1 and a half, then it quietened down and I still kind of hear chain rolling. Am I supposed to here the chain?
yeah, mine did the same thing. I am guessing that my guide rails must be worn. So, I am going to have to look at those. Also drop my oil pan to see if I have pieces in there from it.
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I just changed my tensioner and my car sounded like a deisel for on or about 1 and a half, then it quietened down and I still kind of hear chain rolling. Am I supposed to here the chain?
have you pushed the trotthle to 3000 rpm till it quietened down?
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yep had the same problem, used the same method, and am very happy i did so. after about 15 seconds, i held it at 3500 RPM for...maybe 3 seconds? not quite sure if it helped, but i only really hear the chain at about 2000 and even then its hardly recognizable, other than that, it's rly not noticeable at all. THANKS FOR THE TECHNIQUE :D
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Used this method today except I didn't pry the tensioner. Just used both hands, threaded it in and torqued it down. (the motor and engine bay are partially stripped though) Thanks to the OP for posting this.
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Regarding changing the tensioner - both ways work. Pushing it in decompressed is not that difficult. I oiled mine both installing.
Regarding the rails - I didn't like the noise I was hearing so I changed the tensioner. Wasn't crazy about the way the timing sprockets looked and had an oil leak so I changed the chain. Figured if I was going to take it apart I might as well have the rails just in case. The two side rails had virtually no wear, the bottom rail fell apart in my hand, and the upper rail had some wear.
The directions on the link provided above to Bredan Purcel``s page are very good. I followed them and was surprised at how well and relatively quickly it went. The engine is still noisy, but quieter and the sewing machine sound has gone. Plus no oil leaks!! :D The car is a 91 318 and has just under 120K miles.
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Ok, new rails and tensioner about 6 mos ago. Everything fine until recently. When I start tje car there is a ticking/tapping sound which after about a minute goes away.
Could the tensioner be "bad"? Or is it more likely the hydralifters? Is that what they are called?
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Statement retracted. That is all.
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I'm about to change my tensioner, but the new one I pulled out of the box popped into two pieces. Not a big deal, but it doesn't seem like it will compress all the way together, the ring about a third of the way down the part that compresses the spring won't allow it to slide all the way in. Is this the way it's supposed to be?
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nevermind, problem solved. Exchanged the tensioner and installed per the directions in this post, and Olie (that's my car ...) hasn't sounded this happy since I bought him a few weeks ago.
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Yup I think its because i use a thick oil. It took longer than usual to quiet down. I use 20w50. I have 237k miles on the car and I would like to go to a thinner oil like 10w30, why I don't know. Any suggestions? I have been running 20w50 for years. I have owned the car since 97.
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guess I have to do lifters as mine is still just as noisey.
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What are you guys paying for the tentioner and where are you getting them? I found the Febi Brand for $50 Is that a good deal?
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What are you guys paying for the tentioner and where are you getting them? I found the Febi Brand for $50 Is that a good deal?
You might save a few bucks at Pelican parts...
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awesome write-up. I am about to do my tensioner, just got mine from BavAuto. Any reason why two tensioner came in the box? there aren't like two parts or anything is there? just one cylinder looking thing?
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yeh, it should be in one piece.
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weird i guess i accidentally got two. anyone wanna buy one?
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replaced my tensioner last night, and sold my extra one on R3V, and my M42 now starts cold perfectly and quietly, no chain noise, i am very happy!! and i did it the easy way, thanks to the OP!!
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Here's how it went for me:
Got the 19mm screw plug off easily with a breaker bar. :)
Couldn't push the extended chain tensioner in with my hands. :confused:
Drop the tensioner and watch it fall into two pieces and a displaced lower split ring. :eek:
The metal gasket ring (07119963355) around the screw plug falls and disappears into an alternate universe. :(
I offer passionate entreaties to God about this series of events. :mad:
I look up on realoem.com that an M10 uses the same gasket ring.:cool:
Pick up the gasket ring at the salvage yard and a six-inch C clamp from a hardware store.;)
Successfully compress the tensioner using the C clamp with a little nudge on the lower split ring with a small screwdriver and am able to lock it in so it doesn't fly apart. :)
Move the windshield washer tank out of the way and can get the chain tensioner, gasket ring, and screw cap to thread by hand. :):)
After cinching up the screw cap with a 3/8 inch ratchet, only takes 3 seconds of noisy idling before the tensioner fills with oil. :D
The engine is a bit quieter, and I am grateful.
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anyone have a part number for the m44 tensioner?
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anyone have a part number for the m44 tensioner?
11 31 1 743 187
It's part 21 in the graphic accompanying this link
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CD73&mospid=47493&btnr=11_1564&hg=11&fg=25&hl=22
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Used this same method on my M62TU and it worked just fine. Just have to press in and turn at the same time.
I have a new tensioner ready for the 318ic fixer I am picking up this weekend. I have a 400 or so mile ride home, so I will change the oil on the spot, drop the new tensioner in and have a pair of rad hoses on hand JIC something comes up. :cool:
BTW, this is a really nice site for info. You all have done a great job...
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do i have to keep my chain on time when i do this or can i just do this without having to touch anything but the writing mentioned in the guide?
**Nevermind got it to work perfect lol just finished it now runs great for now hopefully it will do the same when i actually drive it and do my normal pushing :)**
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Did this today with great success.. while showing my wife how the tensioner works, it came apart and sprung all over my driveway. Fortunately, it was the OLD tensioner!
Installed and works great. Thanks for the write-up!
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when I read the title of the thread I was thinking " is there a hard way to do this" lol
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My car has about 168,000 on the clock. No timing components have been changed. My question is that if i put in the new tensioner will it cause the older timing compnents to fail faster?
Thanks
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Tittes
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TO make getting the plug in easier, before you put the tentioner in, put the plug in and turn it slowly backwards, when the threads pass each other the plug will sort of drop in, put a mark on the plug to index that point then when you put the tentioner in you put the plug in clocked just counter clockwise and it will catch the thread on the first try.
Old trick my wife showed me (She used to assemble rifle scopes) it works great for getting the spring retainer in the back of my muzzle loader rifle... :)
Dave
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Has anyone replaced this tensioner in an E36 body? First quick look tonight and there is some foil wrapped hose that is in the way. Also, the tensioner is about even with the strut tower and angled slightly down. Looks like coming out will be ok but reinstalling, especially uncompressed, will be a real pain. Any insight?
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took the tensioner out and there were two crush washers stacked on the bolt. Guess this was changed once and someone forgot to remove the original?