M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => Engine + Driveline => Topic started by: e30nut on May 23, 2007, 08:30:58 AM
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Gruppe:
Well into the engine swap/teardown/buildup (Thanks again to AK96SS!). Perfect time to address flywheel upgrades. I've floated the idea of this swap in various BMW forums and could not get a definitive answer.
I have a newly machined S14 flywheel (19lbs/228mm) that SEEMS to be a drop-in replacement (with the 228 clutch kit and M3 flywheel bolts...shorter) for the massive twinmass...what a beast that is! Just due to stupid US A/C cars. The gear rings of the two FWs mesh perfectly, so I'm assuming the starter will just drop right in with no mods! Thank goodness for 4cyl BMW lineage and smart engineers (re-use, don't re-design).
I'll let y'all know how it turns out!
Cheers!
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huh....this could save a lot of money and time versus the M20 swap...Can't wait for results!
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Interesting.
Keep us posted please!
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yes please keep us posted as soon as you finish post some pics specs and how shes running. i would really liek to see how the s14 flywheel would compare to the m20 and if it truly is a droop in mod. if so Im so doing it asap.!
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can't find my damn digi camera...
Finished assembly yesterday. Physically, fit was fine. Only mod I had to do was cut the 50mm M12x1.5 (12.9) bolts (8) down to 40mm. My initial thought was that I'd just use the M3 bolts (M12x1.5 22mm), but they were WAY short. The 28mm (M20 stock) might have fit, but I didn't have any.
Why do we toss those expensive 12.9 bolts anyway? They can't possibly stretch, right? New loctite 270 on clean threads should be just fine methinks.
Hand-turning the motor is fine. ope to fire it up once the rear tranny seal comes in Tues...fingers crossed.
One more thing...you lose the nifty flywheel lock. The e30m3 FW requires one of those tooth locks...or...just hang a 1/2 breaker bar off the front crank (22mm) when the engine is sitting on a pallet, to lock the drivetrain while securing the flywheel and rear tranny flange (89 ft-lbs final torque...w/ loctitie 270 on the nut collar).
The final assembly is about 1.25" shorter that the twinmass beast...still kinda odd about the bolts...
cheers!
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Wow, sweet.
Keep us updated!! I think I would be interested in purchasing an E30 M3 Flywheel if this works out.
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I don't know if it would make the balance haywire, but could a hole be drilled in the flywheel to match the bell housing(?) hole?
Otherwise, sounds great. Looking foreward to the results and PICS!! ;)
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not worried about recreating the nifty FW lock...
Got the motor back in and every plumbed up. Starter gear does not engage the flywheel. Seems to not be reaching it. This would be consistent with the 40mm FW bolt length, which of course was odd...
Coming apart again next week for further review...guess I need an M20 FW, or spend $$ at metric mechanic.
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oh yeah, one more thing. I used the 228mm clutch and PP from an S14. The whole assembly is shorter as compared to the twin mass setup....so much so that my shifter has move forward noticeably, which is not good.
On the M20 conversion, is the assembly shorter like this as well?
cheers!
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oh yeah, one more thing. I used the 228mm clutch and PP from an S14. The whole assembly is shorter as compared to the twin mass setup....so much so that my shifter has move forward noticeably, which is not good.
On the M20 conversion, is the assembly shorter like this as well?
cheers!
The shifter has moved forward?? Why..?
Your gearbox has not movet just because the stack height of the flywheel assembly is shorter?
Or am i reading this the wrong way?
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duh....my stupidity...shifter was connected 180 degrees backwards. Of course the length is the same, as it is determined by the housing.
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When I tried to fire up the car after initial assembly with the S14 FW the starter just spun, and did not engage the FW. So I thought the FW might have been too far back for it to reach the FW ring.
Got it all disassembled again. Getting good at this procedure ;)
The S14 FW ring is exactly 1" behind the block (ie: the mounting position of the starter)....same as the M42 twin mass FW...so that's not why the starter gear was not engaging.
I have 2 M42 starters, both were working prior to engine swap/re-assembly. Both seem to be physically release the gear w/o any problem (I pulled on the gear with some pliers and it moved up into position just fine...on both starters)
....what would cause the starter gear to not pop out during cranking? Is that even possible? Sounds like I got a 'lectrical problem now....
Also, I'm wondering if I need a different TO bearing, but we haven't gotten that far yet!
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Also, I'm wondering if I need a different TO bearing, but we haven't gotten that far yet![/quote]
OK, responding to my own posts...how pathetic!
I'm using the S14 TO bearing which is 25mm tall, same as the M42.
The e21 323 TO bearing is 30mm tall. I'm thinking that basically, the S14 FW is the same as the M20 single mass FW...with a ring gear that matches the M42 starter. The ring gears of both these FWs meshed perfectly when I had them side by side.
So, if the clutch was engaged because of a TO bearing issue, then I would expect the car to lurch when cranking...perhaps I had it in neutral when I cranked it? Don't remember...
The M42 twin mass + clutch/pp stack is ~3.25" deep.
The S14 + clutch/pp stack (228mm) is ~2.75" deep.
5mm = 0.2"
Any thoughts?
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the S14 FW is just like this one...
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OK, I think I've cracked the code....
It's the FW ring...
My initial thought on the need to change rings or starter gear was that they were different sized teeth. Not that holding them together is a scientific way of measuring a difference in diameter of about 2-5%...doh.
Rings off, little one in the oven (the little M42 ring that is), hopefully re-assemble (again) before dark!
But wait...I'd better wait for that e21/M20 throwout bearing to come in from BavAuto. Should be ready to fire it up again on Tuesday. I will report back...again.
All these findings lead me to believe that the stock S14/M3 FW and clutch is exactly the same as the M20 e30's. And I thought my e30/M3 was so exclusive...:p...heck, yet another sign of good engineering=>re-use!
cheers!
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Alas, it's not meant to be.
Turns out the ring gear on the M42 FW has just a hair smaller ID than the e30m3 ring, so it's NOT going on there. The OD is significantly smaller on the M42 FW. So, the starter gear was trying to engage, but it butted up against the larger ring of the e30m3 FW and sat there, spinning.
It's conceivable that it might work if you had an e30m3 starter (or a starter gear swap), but that's not happening.
I've spent entirely too much time on this project in the middle of an engine swap. Oh well, stock will have to be good enough for the DD.
cheers!
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how about hall sensors located on the flywheel? Does this swap effect to them? I suppose Motronic will go nuts if there is adifference compared to original setup.
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hall sensors isn't on flywheel is on the pulley im running m20 euro 320i flywheel and it works perfect exept my starter gear :p too noisy (im an auto electrician :D someday im gone fix my car too :p)
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Alas, it's not meant to be.
Turns out the ring gear on the M42 FW has just a hair smaller ID than the e30m3 ring, so it's NOT going on there. The OD is significantly smaller on the M42 FW. So, the starter gear was trying to engage, but it butted up against the larger ring of the e30m3 FW and sat there, spinning.
It's conceivable that it might work if you had an e30m3 starter (or a starter gear swap), but that's not happening.
I've spent entirely too much time on this project in the middle of an engine swap. Oh well, stock will have to be good enough for the DD.
cheers!
jpg
DUDE - DONT GIVE UP!!!!
I've just read this thread very carefully and theese are my aids:
I'd try to measure the distance from the middle of the crank hole to the middle of the starter hole - if they are identical /what I think is true/ in both engines /S14 compared to M42/ just change Your starter from the M42 one to S14 one... It should fix the problem of missing teeth... Of corse there is another question - how deep the starter teeth dive to reach the FW teeth on both engines...
And BTW S14 is based on the same block as M10 is /we've already checked this/ so M10 starter fits S14 /we've tested this when S14 starter broke down/ So the cure is to put there M10 starter, not the S14 /which is rare or more expencive/.
I had the same idea of swapping the M42 with S14 FW, but I didn't start to do it yet. But anyway I wouldn't start anything untill measuring the two engines well... Pulling out the FW is not very easy job, to do it over and over again...
I'd rather pull the tranny away and than try to fit the FW on the crank, and make it work well, checking if it works w/o tranny at all... It is safe, but You have to keep the engine stable when the launching is happening. And of corse fire it up w/o the cluth mounted on!!!
There is also the risk of braking the teeth easily, when they don't dive deep enough to reach the FW teeth completely, but You can wire the starter just partially w/o starting the starter at all... It should show You if the depth is correctly applied.
To correct the depth, I'd use spacers or make the starter mountings machined to decrease the depth /if needed/. Just have to check the depth.
Feel free PM me if You need any more info...
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Alas, it's not meant to be.
Turns out the ring gear on the M42 FW has just a hair smaller ID than the e30m3 ring, so it's NOT going on there. The OD is significantly smaller on the M42 FW. So, the starter gear was trying to engage, but it butted up against the larger ring of the e30m3 FW and sat there, spinning.
It's conceivable that it might work if you had an e30m3 starter (or a starter gear swap), but that's not happening.
I've spent entirely too much time on this project in the middle of an engine swap. Oh well, stock will have to be good enough for the DD.
cheers!
jpg
DUDE - DONT GIVE UP!!!!
I've just read this thread very carefully and theese are my aids:
You have to measure few distances:
1. The one between the middle of the crank hole to the middle of the starter hole - You have to check the S14 compared to M42 engine...
2. If they are the same, measure the FW diameter, if this is the same,
3. Check how deep the starter teeth dive to reach the FW teeth on both engines...
If any of those measures differs from another engine, It is a must to change the mounting points to set them just in the same corelation /i mean starter with the FW/...
And BTW S14 is based on the same block as M10 is /we've already checked this/ so M10 starter fits S14 /it wont work with the S14 because of the manifold, but it has the same mounting measures... So maybe the cure is to put there M10 starter /it has to have the same teeth as S14 starter/, not the S14 /which is rare or more expencive/.
I had the same idea of swapping the M42 FW with S14 FW, but I didn't start to do it yet. But anyway I wouldn't start anything untill measuring the two engines well... Pulling out the FW is not very easy job, to do it over and over again...
I'd rather pull the tranny away and than try to fit the FW on the crank, checking if it works w/o tranny at all... It is safe, but You have to keep the engine stable when the launching is happening. And of corse fire it up w/o the cluth mounted on!!!
There is also the risk of braking the teeth easily, when they don't dive deep enough to reach the FW teeth completely, but You can wire the starter just partially w/o starting the starter at all... It should show You if the depth is correctly applied.
To correct the depth, I'd use spacers or make the starter mountings machined to decrease the depth /if needed/. Just have to check the depth.
I'll check my setup tomorrow because I have the parts out of my car. I will check the simillarity of the two FW /the M42 one and S14 one/ and post a sollution if I'll find one...
Feel free PM me if You need any more info...
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Yesterday in the evening I've realised that starter mountings are in the tranny rather than in the engine block.... So it is not that easy to check everything w/o tranny... - Sorry for the mistake...