M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS

FAQ / REFERENCE => Member Profiles => Topic started by: tjts1 on April 30, 2007, 03:50:33 AM

Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on April 30, 2007, 03:50:33 AM: Hi, my name is Justin and this is my brand spanking new (to me) 318i. I picked it up in San Francisco for $2k with 138k miles. Its a little rough around the edged but deep down, its got a heart of gold. The good stuff: it came with a folder stuff with maintenance records going back to 91. Highlights include $700 for stereo and speakers installed in 99, fresh shocks in 04, clutch in 05 and 3k mile oil changes at jiffy lube :mad:
I tried to listen for any chain or lifter noise but didn't hear anything. I'll assume its healthy until I drop the lower oil pan later this week. Place your bets on how many loose bolts I find NOW!
The engine and transmission are clean of any oil leaks. The diff is a bit greasy.

The exterior is rough: rusty sun roof, bashed rear bumper (no body damage) water leak through antenna, missing air dam, damaged grill and peeling clear coat on the roof. Oh and one missing hub cap :D

The interior is even worse: the fabric on all the seats is torn up beyond repair. I'll be hitting up the JY for some leather seats real soon. The AC doesn't work, passenger side mirror and exterior mirrors are inoperative and the exhaust hangers are noisy. The only engine related issue seems to be the temp never gets past 1/4. I guess i need a thermostat. I should have a big package coming in from Pelican Parts by the end of the week.

With any luck this car will be saved from the cold death grip of some 16 year old high school kid driving it in the ground. When i saw the car on CL I figured the hub caps were a dead give away that it hasn't been racer or abused. Previous owner for 7 years was a female law clerk.

(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/197/475923887_acea484e1e_o.jpg)
Bitchin! New grill is $15 at PP. Got a set of Cibies on the way as well.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/176/475911462_84e5afecdc_o.jpg)
You can see the damage at the top of the bumper where the plastic split.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/225/475923973_bf532952ea_o.jpg)
Booyah! Its not as quick as the my beater neon which will be replaced shortly, but the 318i is worlds away in every other respect. I hope someone steals my neon. I couldn't give it way.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/194/475926207_430849a9d8_o.jpg)
Poverty spec seats are shot to hell.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/196/475925211_108746042a_o.jpg)
Front seats are even worse. No cracks on the dash thankfully.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/231/475925191_a40251403d_o.jpg)
She took good care of the mechanical stuff, but life on the streets of San Francisco is not kind to cars. Water leak. The antenna is seized so I'll be removing it completely and plugging up the hole.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/220/475912740_e897db8a74_o.jpg)
Whenever I press a button on this thing, the screen goes bizerk. How do you get it to work? I don't have an owner's manual.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/187/475925273_96208f16b2.jpg)
Myth busted: A rusty California car.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/228/475923927_c8efd2e6b7_o.jpg)
In the background is my other passion. RWD volvos. Turbobricks anyone? Just finished swapping out an automatic for a 5 speed in GF's 240. The 960 wagon is mine. 3.0, DOHC, 24 valve, 10.7:1 CR, alloy block, 204hp inline 6. Sound familiar?
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/192/475926163_bb1f998165_o.jpg)

PLEASE HELP ME!
I have a PDF of the E30 Bentley manual, but I could really use a 91 owners manual. Does anyone have one online? I'm not even sure where full is on the dip stick.
Also, I make a habit of changing plugs regularly so I use standard copper plugs. Is anybody using NGK BKR6EK in the M42? The reason I ask is because 960 also calls for 3 prong plugs but I've been using single prong copper NGKs in it for years.
Thanks
Justin
Title: tjts1
Post by: Abrax on April 30, 2007, 05:19:01 AM: Hello!!!

Much to do with it... But I feel that You will take the task easily ;) Check the oil level in You diff ASAP ! And take out the rust immediately to avoid it from growing up...

Read DIY threads to find rapairing aids there. They are really well written.

Good luck!
Title: tjts1
Post by: gearheadE30 on April 30, 2007, 06:41:25 AM: nice find :) It's good to see that there are people out there bringing these wonderful cars back to their former glory.

The OBC should just switch screens when you press buttons. Mine had a loose connector and was going crazy, but I'm nnot sure why a button press would cause that.

Now all you need are new seats, basketweaves, and a supercharger and you'll be good to go ;)
Title: tjts1
Post by: FL318is on April 30, 2007, 09:24:24 AM: Welcome and congrats! This is def the board for all your 318 needs. Post frequently and that car will be back to specs in no time! Enjoy! List the parts you need. Some of us have spare pieces and parts!
Title: tjts1
Post by: Febi Guibo on April 30, 2007, 12:44:55 PM: welcome!

as a fellow diamiantschwarz owner... yer going to need a few coats of clearcoat... but welcome, I look forward to seeing your progress.

Make sure pelican includes the timing chain tensioner.
Title: tjts1
Post by: jpod999 on April 30, 2007, 05:05:31 PM: Hello! Another Norcal member! Another Norcal 4 door member! Have a good time working on this thing, they are fun. I have the same seats and my rear seat is tearing on the top too...not so fun.
Title: tjts1
Post by: D. Clay on April 30, 2007, 06:51:22 PM: D-Schwarz! Yeah!
The clock/date/temp unit is easy to repair. Clean the flat connector ribbon inside. Be careful to remember the exact order it comes apart in.
Keep an eye on the for sale sections of the E30 forums. Seats come up fairly regularly,
Title: tjts1
Post by: Tonyb on April 30, 2007, 08:16:24 PM: Good luck with the fix, we all need help here, and this is the place to get it!
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on April 30, 2007, 09:00:19 PM: Thanks a lot for all the positive responses. I'll definitely be looking here for help in the future. If anyone knows of has an online version of the owner's manual, It would help a lot.

I just swapped in some fresh copper NGK plugs. looks like the old ones were BMW Bosch parts. Pretty worn out. The rear bumper is taped up and snug as a bug. I should have a big package coming in tomorrow from PP.
Title: tjts1
Post by: Tonyb on May 01, 2007, 12:25:23 AM: The manual isn't much use but you can get on on ebay if you want one. If you have a ? regarding anything from the owners manual just post it here and you will have plenty of replies.
Title: tjts1
Post by: Febi Guibo on May 01, 2007, 12:28:27 AM: welcome again... fyi patrick at BMA will price match and they are tremendous
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on May 01, 2007, 04:11:50 AM: Another question. Where do you go to get keys made? Is there an alternative to the dealer? I only have 1 key at this point. Orchard wasn't able to duplicate it. They've done Volvo and Dodge keys in the past.

Thanks
Title: tjts1
Post by: gearheadE30 on May 01, 2007, 06:46:21 AM: Most hardware stores will copy keys. It costs about 5-7 bucks iirc
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on May 01, 2007, 01:52:13 PM: Early this morning I lubricated all the locks and hinges with some WD40. WOW what a difference a little spray lubricant makes. The key is actually a little bent because the door lock was so hard to turn.
Quote from: gearheadE30;24925
Most hardware stores will copy keys. It costs about 5-7 bucks iirc

Thats what I thought too but both Orchard and Home Depot turned me down. These guys usually don't have any trouble with car keys. I guess I'll try a local locksmith.

Pelican Parts package arrive today with:
thermostat
oil, air and fuel filters
exhaust bushings
lower pan gasket (dropping the pan to hunt for loose bolts)
new grill

The steering feels a little loose at dead center so I suspect I need some bushings. This seemed like a good deal.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-BMW-E30-M3-SOLID-OFFSET-CONTROL-ARM-RACING-BUSHINGS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33583QQihZ015QQitemZ250109102090QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
So I ordered a set.

question
How many quarts of engine oil, trans oil and gear oil does it take? What oil do you recommend for each? I want to use synthetic for everything.
Also looking to change the power steering fluid (ATF?), clutch (ATF or brake fluid?) and brake fluid (DOT 4?)
At this rate I should have the car ship shape in no time flat.

Thanks again
Justin
Title: tjts1
Post by: Abrax on May 01, 2007, 04:19:41 PM: For power steering I use ATF III castrol. For the engine I use MOTUL 10W40 semisynthetic. Normally it doesn't take any oil... But if I rev much it can take 0,2 l of oil per 1000km.

Clutch is definately powered by brake fluid!!! Not by the ATF!!! The lines comes from the brake fluid tank... So don't replace this with ATF... And for the brakes I use DOT4 castrol.

I have to check the labels for the more precise info...
Title: tjts1
Post by: ecpreston on May 01, 2007, 04:34:16 PM: Quote from: tjts1;24921
Another question. Where do you go to get keys made? Is there an alternative to the dealer? I only have 1 key at this point. Orchard wasn't able to duplicate it. They've done Volvo and Dodge keys in the past.

Thanks

I had trouble finding places that had the right blanks, lucked out with an ACE hardware
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on May 01, 2007, 09:01:31 PM: Quote from: ecpreston;24961
I had trouble finding places that had the right blanks, lucked out with an ACE hardware

Thanks for the tip. ACE made 3 copies for me this afternoon.
Title: tjts1
Post by: haledj on May 02, 2007, 05:27:08 PM: I want to see some more pictures of the volvo. I got my start in volvo's and will always want a turbo volvo project car.
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on May 02, 2007, 06:18:53 PM: Quote from: haledj;25039
I want to see some more pictures of the volvo. I got my start in volvo's and will always want a turbo volvo project car.

Neither of my volvos have a turbo, but they are massive fun. With a few suspension upgrades like IPD sway bars, shocks and springs, they can handle pretty well. In general, RWD volvos are have much more simple construction than E30 for example. Solid axle rear end, 8 valve engines, tractor like transmission etc. It also means theres less to go wrong but trust me: they are no BMWs.
I'll pick out some volvo pics for you later tonight

Back to the 318i
I fixed the rear bumper with a single screw. The left rear corner of the plastic bumper is damaged so the part that wraps around the car was completely loose. I didn't want to risk further damaging the bumper so I ran a screw through the bumper and the plastic bracket underneath. Don't worry I didn't drill through metal. This is temporary until I find a new bumper. Ghetto but effective. Better than the tape I had on there before.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/193/481723099_a4bcd303f5.jpg)

I put the front end up on jack stands and checked the front end for looseness... yeah. All my front end bushings are shot. Ordered a new set of control arms on order from FCPgroton on top of the offset bushings I have coming from them. I've never seen so much front end play on any car. You can actually see the control arm dance around the bushing as you jerk the tire. I'm surprised how quiet and un-clunky the suspension is with so much wear.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/216/481779413_1fec2ce0e5.jpg)

Next I dropped the oil pan and what do you know, no loose bolts. The pic was taken after cleaning the pan. The old gasket was a real pain to scrape off.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/208/481827829_bb4fb66f61.jpg)

But looking up, most of the bolts holding the pick and oil pump up, were completely loose. I mean I could tighten them with my finger. I dropped the bolts one by one, added locktite and re torqued. I guess it was only a matter of time until they undid themselves and dropped into the pan.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/200/481955315_38b87b2e66.jpg)

Its pretty nasty in there from previous owner who ran regular 10w30. At least she changed it often. Hopefully the 5w40 diesel rated oil I bought will help clean out the engine. Maybe I should drop the pan again in a few months for before and after shots. hehehe
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/231/481817506_63119f6e6e.jpg)

Bottom side of piston #1
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/201/481817520_9ac8f99b61.jpg)

After putting the pan back with a fresh gasket, I was waiting for the coolant to drain...
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/232/481935089_b382dacdef.jpg)

... I started looking around the engine bay and guess what I found?
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/172/481935077_5b6ea1eaa1.jpg?v=0)

Is this the idle control valve hose or the crankcase ventilation hose? I can't tell. Its underneath the throttle body and connects to the plastic elbow between the TB and the air meter. This could explain my idle oscillations when i start the engine or try to switch on the AC.

Anyway, back to changing the thermostat.
Title: tjts1
Post by: Abrax on May 03, 2007, 02:06:53 PM: The Bentley Manual You wanted is here -> http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2282 ...

Nice progress... Theese pipes of the idle controll often are broken...
Title: tjts1
Post by: gearheadE30 on May 03, 2007, 02:54:06 PM: I'm not completely sure, but I know the brake booster gets its boost from the intake manifold. This may connect to that, but I'm not entirely sure. In any case, I'm sure it is threr for a reason and the car will run better with it hooked up ;)
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on May 03, 2007, 03:44:45 PM: Thanks for the link. I already have the Bentley manual. What is need is the owner's manual. I don't even know how to work the OBC. Not that its functioning properly but anyway.

I pulled the radiator out for a good cleaning. It was full of leaves and feathers. Turns out the radiator is 17 x 17", perfect my a volvo 2 speed electric fan. I've had good luck with these in the past so I think I'll replace both the clutch fan and the auxiliary fan.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/208/482221322_9e8375caa7.jpg)

Also gave me more access to the thermostat. I hate that clutch fan with a passion. It'll be gone soon enough
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/216/482230265_6b354d2de3.jpg)

While trying to reinstall the thermostat housing, I cracked. I tried JBweld and it cracked again in a different spot. At this point I took a hint and went to the dealer. $45 later and I should have a fresh housing by tomorrow morning. The old one has a lot of corrosion around the mating surface and on the hose ends. The radiator hoses aren't looking too hot either but I'll save that for another day. I bought a new set of hose clamps just to stay on the safe side.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/174/483038129_294199d635.jpg)
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on May 04, 2007, 08:30:45 PM: Yet another update. The new thermostat housing fits like a glove. Got every thing back together, checked for leaks and the temp gauge finally made it to the half way mark. Perfect. While I had the radiator out, i washed the fins out of rocks, leaves and other road debris that had accumulated over the years. I took this pic just before reinstalling the clutch fan. This thing is begging for an electric fan conversion. Also found that the clutch fan weighs exactly 2.7 lb. Good to know.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/179/484416063_4ebbd4339e.jpg)

Just when I thought all is well, I found a small drip where the expansion tank meets the radiator. DOH! Seems like the added pressure of a functional thermostat found the weakest link in the system. Pulled the expansion tank.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/174/484473169_dede6f06d5.jpg)

Radiator still in the car.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/230/484441710_fbfb6bcf9c.jpg)

Added lots of RTV sealant over and under the old rubber seals.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/201/484440418_86762922dc.jpg)

Top drain.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/202/484473231_7403b61365.jpg)

And reinstalled the expansion tank.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/180/484473247_77b76f4e5b.jpg)

Now i have to wait another 24 hours for the RTV to fully cure before I can add coolant to the system.
Title: tjts1
Post by: Tonyb on May 04, 2007, 11:56:08 PM: I love the way those tanks can be removed for repair! ($$$$)
Title: tjts1
Post by: jpod999 on May 06, 2007, 04:21:32 PM: So how's she running now?
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on May 06, 2007, 06:37:42 PM: After reinstalling the overflow tank, the bleed screw was X threaded and started leaking when the system heated up. I added some sealant on the threads and let it set overnight. No more leaks. Now that the weather has turned Hot (91F this afternoon) I really need to recharge the AC. I'm going to try Duracool. Also noticed when I switch on the AC, RPM just to 1500, and when i turn it off, the engine dies. I guess theres some Idle control issues. The hoses under the intake look pretty bad. Otherwise its running fine. I think it needs some fresh engine mounts because I'm getting some vibration into the cabin, new control arms should be here next week and I'm also debating a 3.64 differential. In my opinion the RPMs are running way too high which makes the car annoying for highway cruising. Sure I'll give up some acceleration but it will get me to 60 in second. I'll put together some gear ratio charts when I get the chance.

Just waiting for the control arms...
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/182/483333370_cd4c1bbde4_o.jpg)

My next big project is to get rid of this stuff.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/211/484742271_1c52a0fdd4_o.jpg)

Should have Cibies and relays by next week.
(http://dsl.torque.net/images/146HCR.jpg)
Title: tjts1
Post by: gearheadE30 on May 06, 2007, 07:29:07 PM: Out of curiosity, is that all stuff related to the throttle body heater?

Nice wourk on bringing the car back. I personally don't think that a 3.64 would go too well with the M42. Maybe a 3.73 LSD off of a 325is, but I'm not sure how easy it is to replace a small pumpkin with a bigger one ;)
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on May 06, 2007, 08:40:02 PM: That whole mess of hoses and fittings is related to the throttle heater. It'll be gone soon enough.
The differential is just an idea I'm considering in the distant future. 3.73 or 3.91 might be better options.
I have enough projects on my hands for the time being.
Title: tjts1
Post by: jpod999 on May 06, 2007, 10:44:31 PM: Why are you going to remove the hoses?
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on May 07, 2007, 04:07:08 AM: I spent the better part of the last 2 days trying to resolve various leaks between the thermostat and the radiator and I probably haven't seen the end of it. All 3 hoses going to the radiator are cracked and brittle. The 8 coolant and 4 vacuum hoses under the intake are in even worse shape. Every hose that I can visually inspect have some kind of age and heat related damage. The whole mess is overly complex, poorly conceived and prone to failure. I live in a hot, dry region of the county where theres no danger of icing on the TB and I want to eliminate potential failures.
We may each have our own opinion about whether or not this modification increases power (I personally think it does) but we can't deny that a constant hot intake will increase the octane requirement and reduce volumetric efficiency. My volvo for example has a 10.7 to 1 compression ratio and requires a minimum 91 octane. It also has a much simpler hot intake system using a thermostatic valve to route hot air from near the exhaust, into the airbox. By eliminating this system I was able make the car run on 87 octane (while still running full advance) even in hot weather as well as increase power (by the butt dyno anyway). Granted the Volvo engine has a knock sensor and the M42 doesn't.
I think the whole system can be eliminated using 3 hoses: 1 for the coolant, 1 for the crankcase ventilation and one for the idle valve. I'll post pics when I go through with it.

E30 M42
(http://realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/c/m/6.png)

E36 M42 has 3 different versions all of which are simplified from the E30.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/c/c/10.png
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/c/x/7.png
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/d/g/6.png
Title: tjts1
Post by: ecpreston on May 07, 2007, 08:00:54 AM: Quote from: jpod999;25242
Why are you going to remove the hoses?

Quote from: tjts1;25249
The whole mess is overly complex, poorly conceived and prone to failure.

Agreed, I'm going to pull it all as well when I ditch the PS and AC. Good call! :D
Title: tjts1
Post by: jpod999 on May 07, 2007, 04:48:11 PM: Sweet, just make sure you post up on the results of your explorations!
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on May 09, 2007, 12:35:16 PM: Nothing special. Just a day at the beach.

(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/207/490948572_a4b811d3c7_o.jpg)

(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/231/490963977_6f92be36e2_o.jpg)

(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/191/490948640_3a23a8b7a5_o.jpg)
Title: tjts1
Post by: Abrax on May 09, 2007, 03:48:41 PM: Quote from: tjts1;25249
I spent the better part of the last 2 days trying to resolve various leaks between the thermostat and the radiator and I probably haven't seen the end of it. All 3 hoses going to the radiator are cracked and brittle. The 8 coolant and 4 vacuum hoses under the intake are in even worse shape. Every hose that I can visually inspect have some kind of age and heat related damage. The whole mess is overly complex, poorly conceived and prone to failure. I live in a hot, dry region of the county where theres no danger of icing on the TB and I want to eliminate potential failures.
We may each have our own opinion about whether or not this modification increases power (I personally think it does) but we can't deny that a constant hot intake will increase the octane requirement and reduce volumetric efficiency. My volvo for example has a 10.7 to 1 compression ratio and requires a minimum 91 octane. It also has a much simpler hot intake system using a thermostatic valve to route hot air from near the exhaust, into the airbox. By eliminating this system I was able make the car run on 87 octane (while still running full advance) even in hot weather as well as increase power (by the butt dyno anyway). Granted the Volvo engine has a knock sensor and the M42 doesn't.
I think the whole system can be eliminated using 3 hoses: 1 for the coolant, 1 for the crankcase ventilation and one for the idle valve. I'll post pics when I go through with it.

E30 M42
(http://realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/c/m/6.png)

E36 M42 has 3 different versions all of which are simplified from the E30.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/c/c/10.png
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/c/x/7.png
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/d/g/6.png

I think, that warming up the air this way extremely influences milleage at low temperatures. I had a comparison in my car at winter before the last winter. We had about -20 celsius degrees. I was driving with, my friend w/o warming pipes. My car was 3ltr/100km more economic than my friend's during 3 week cold period... I had 11 ltr's and my friend 14ltr's per 100km. We were driving till the summer and in the summer the two cars were eating the same amount of gasoline per 100km on the same distance made day by day going to work.

So I'm against cutting it off unless You live in the area which is warm enough all the year. At least I would make a cutting valve to stop heating when in the summer.
Title: tjts1
Post by: ecpreston on May 09, 2007, 04:50:58 PM: -20C !?!?! :eek:

yeah, I would probably not remove it then either.
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on May 09, 2007, 06:45:49 PM: Quote from: Abrax;25360
I think, that warming up the air this way extremely influences milleage at low temperatures. I had a comparison in my car at winter before the last winter. We had about -20 celsius degrees. I was driving with, my friend w/o warming pipes. My car was 3ltr/100km more economic than my friend's during 3 week cold period... I had 11 ltr's and my friend 14ltr's per 100km. We were driving till the summer and in the summer the two cars were eating the same amount of gasoline per 100km on the same distance made day by day going to work.

So I'm against cutting it off unless You live in the area which is warm enough all the year. At least I would make a cutting valve to stop heating when in the summer.
I can definitely see what you are saying in a cold climate. Here in northern California the temperature varies from 5C on a cold winter night to 40C on the most extreme hot summer day so its not really an issue for me. I drive to Lake Tahoe 2 or 3 times every winter where it definitely gets way below freezing but that represents a very small proportion of my driving.

This afternoon I removed the the TB and both the upper and lower intake. The mess of hoses underneath the intake is out of the car and so far I found (are you ready for this) 8 vacuum leaks. There may be more I'm not sure yet. The lower intake and runners inside the head had about 1/8-1/4" of black oily deposits from the crankcase ventilation. It's absolutely filthy. This is a testament to the adaptive engine management that the car passed the California smog check with with extremely low numbers.
Right now I'm in the process of cleaning the whole intake system with a can of brake cleaner. I don't have my camera today but I'll try to get some pics up tomorrow.
Title: tjts1
Post by: Abrax on May 10, 2007, 12:08:57 AM: In Cracow we have 4 months cold enough period to keep the pipes. BTW the most hated job is to remount the intake or make sth with injectors... It was always very challenging... But lastly I've remounted/mounted all of the pipes in less than hour... Had to change one injector...

If I was living in California I'd probably cut it out like You ;)
Title: tjts1
Post by: Abrax on May 10, 2007, 12:13:04 AM: Quote from: ecpreston;25361
-20C !?!?! :eek:

yeah, I would probably not remove it then either.

It happened two winters ago and keeped for 3 weeks...

Normally it is -5 to -8. But I can remember -27 for one day three years ago..
And once I've crossed some distance up there in the northern Sweden at -38 ... After 15 meters I wanted to get back... The air was freezing my nose from the inside - strange feeling...
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on May 10, 2007, 10:27:16 PM: My engine engine work will be continued here
http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2742

In the on the interior front, I did a quick trip to the JY this afternoon and pick up a few goodies.

$35 worth of back seat. Its filthy but but theres no tears or splits. I'll try cleaning it as it otherwise I'll pull the cloth off the foam and throw it in the wash.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/232/493199130_f511e42666_o.jpg)

$3 leather shift knob. It has wires sticking out the bottom. Don't know why but it came out of a 325e
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/202/493199162_7e926b91af_o.jpg)

5 finger discount. I'm not one for shop lifting but $10 per switch is silly. And really the unspoken rule at the JY is if it fits in your pocket, don't ask don't tell.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/218/493199180_fd2aa8f44d_o.jpg)
Title: tjts1
Post by: jpod999 on May 10, 2007, 11:31:42 PM: That shift knob is a sweet buy!
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on May 12, 2007, 11:20:06 PM: Is so purdy.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/204/495685503_028c34e835_o.jpg)

Now I have to do the valve cover.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/198/495685473_6f69b7c0c0_o.jpg)
Title: tjts1
Post by: FL318is on May 13, 2007, 09:07:45 AM: Looking great! Did you paint and then dremel the cover? I used the same color on mine.
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on May 13, 2007, 09:18:19 AM: No I just did a lot of prep work before paint by degreasing, sanding and washing twice then sprayed on high temp BBQ paint. Got it looking nice and shiny before hand.
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/222/495322742_dfc2bed04e_o.jpg
I used a sanding block to gently remove the paint on the raised highlights.
Title: tjts1
Post by: FL318is on May 13, 2007, 09:22:31 AM: I have some brand new seat covers that came with the car. I have no idea if they are even remotely a good fit. But if all else fails, let me know and I can take some pics.

They are a strong twill fabric, grey and they have the roundel on the front seats. Its a complete set inclucing head rests covers.
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on May 13, 2007, 10:05:53 AM: Thanks for the offer. The back seat I picked up from the JY cleaned up nicely with soap and water so now I'm just letting the foam dry outside before I install it.
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on May 13, 2007, 03:22:07 PM: No heater plate. Its like it was meant to be.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/194/496711498_2a1ceb6815_o.jpg)

1 down, 3 to go.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/223/496711580_20ed0ff230_o.jpg)
Title: tjts1
Post by: FL318is on May 13, 2007, 08:36:46 PM: Man, your car is coming along nicely. I just got home so I will take the pic of the fine mesh CAI tomorrow.
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on May 14, 2007, 02:42:01 AM: I would be interested to see that.
Title: tjts1
Post by: sports.racer on May 14, 2007, 08:53:55 AM: Quote from: tjts1;24811

Whenever I press a button on this thing, the screen goes bizerk. How do you get it to work? I don't have an owner's manual.

Had the same problem with mine. At first I thought it was the connector in the back but after much playing with that decided it couldn't be. So I took the clock apart and found that there is a rubber connector between the display and circuit board. Carefully took it all apart and cleaned everything. Put it back together and haven't had a problem since.
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on May 14, 2007, 11:33:25 PM: I was able to fix the OBC problem by gluing the face plate and mounting bracket in place. The bracket was flexing when ever I pressed a button which would prevent the contacts from doing their job.

YAY summer wheels and tires!
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/225/498992294_b1703747b9_o.jpg)

195/60R14 Falken Azenis 615. Used obviously but they should get the job done. Damn good price too from another enthusiast that was upgrading his 325 to 15x7s.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/191/498992322_8da9277cdc_o.jpg)

For anyone interested:
Steel wheel with 195/60R14 tire = 36#
Bottle cap with 195/60R14 Azenis = 33#

I was expecting a bigger weight difference. The steel wheel is 5.5" wide while the bottlecap is 6".
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on May 15, 2007, 05:02:36 PM: Hmmm you think this old passenger side engine mount (left) needs to be changed? ;)
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/207/500004538_8785b5cc13_o.jpg)
I'm only replacing the passenger side mount because it looks to be in much worse shape than the driver's side. Think about how engine torque is transfered to the engine mounts, the passengers side gets squished down while the driver's side is lifted up. The engine block wants to twist itself the opposite direction of the crank. The passenger side takes most of the stress while the driver's side just keep the engine from hitting the Xmember. Also the passenger side mount is exposed to exhaust heat while the driver's side isn't. When mounts cost $90 a piece you start think about these things. Eventually I'll get around to doing the driver's side too but its not a priority right now.
While were on the subject I found that the easiest way to access the passenger side control arm bolt is to jack up the engine and remove the passenger side mount. Much easier than through the back. You don't even have to drop the sway bar.
Title: tjts1
Post by: Alpine003 on May 16, 2007, 11:38:05 AM: I've never actually seen a new mount side by side with an older one. Thanks for the pics.

Another note about passenger mounts; if you have a really worn one, this can affect shifting. If you've tried replacing shift bushings, lever, etc and still have a hard time getting into gear, check your passenger engine mount.
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on May 16, 2007, 10:14:23 PM: This is what I call progress.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/214/501574885_5fefb9102e.jpg)

(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/221/501574891_0221aad5d2.jpg)
I still have to install the other side.
Title: tjts1
Post by: FL318is on May 16, 2007, 10:31:09 PM: You are a machine. Wish I had your skills.
Title: tjts1
Post by: Tonyb on May 16, 2007, 11:57:27 PM: Nice work on the car! Fun to follow along the post and see the work!
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on May 17, 2007, 10:45:23 PM: This evening I finished the other control arm, changed PS fluid, changed fuel filter and bled the front brakes. Hope fully I'll have it back on 4 wheels tomorrow. Now for some steel wheel pimpin... lol
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/227/502853028_f8ff0c21be_o.jpg)
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on May 20, 2007, 06:19:41 PM: Finally got the car back on the road yesterday and WOW! what a difference. The idle is dead stable at 800 in every driving situation. The steering feels a bit heavier and a lot more connected to the wheels than before. No more clunking noises from the front end and theres no play in the wheel. I think i'll keep the PS for a while just to see whats what. I repaired too many things on the car to list them all. But I can say that it feels like a completely different animal. Oh and theres a lot less vibration in the cabin after changing the engine mount.

Its too damn windy to wash the car right now.This will have to do.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/224/506406462_fa30c6bea0_o.jpg)

Begging for that H4/H1 swap
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/198/506406234_0dd1e1b913_o.jpg)

I didn't realize just how much smaller the E30 is compared to my GF's 89 240. Despite the size difference, only about 300lb separates the two.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/216/506406484_5616a94423_o.jpg)

Meet interesting people... and cars.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/209/506406554_2bc00e8ab0_o.jpg)
Title: tjts1
Post by: jpod999 on May 20, 2007, 07:42:08 PM: Euro smiley swap ftw!

Great work on that car, you're a good M42er. ;)
Title: tjts1
Post by: dude8383 on May 20, 2007, 07:57:30 PM: Wow lotta progress there!

Keep up the good work!
Title: tjts1
Post by: gearheadE30 on May 21, 2007, 04:36:09 PM: Great progress.

How hard is it to replace a control arm bushing? I need new ones but didn't know if I needed a press or something to do it right.
Title: tjts1
Post by: Alpine003 on May 21, 2007, 10:36:34 PM: Quote from: gearheadE30;26245
Great progress.

How hard is it to replace a control arm bushing? I need new ones but didn't know if I needed a press or something to do it right.

Depends on your mechanical skill level, tools, amount of rust on your car, etc. As for a press, you don't need one if you're going aftermarket bushings. The stock OEM ones will need a press.
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on May 22, 2007, 02:58:25 AM: This afternoon we took the car out for its first real flogging after the suspension work on the Azenis tires. OMG that was fun. Seriously if you haven't tried them before, drive these tires and mount them on a second set of wheels for special occasions. They are amazing. No understeer, no oversteer, instant turn in and the grip level is way beyond anything you could do on a public road. Sure they probably wear fast (200 wear rating) but you don't life forever either. These wheels and tires are some of the best $200 I've ever spend. Well, next to the $12 impact wrench I picked up at Sears a few months back so I can swap wheels in 10 minutes.
The steering feels very tight with the new control arms, no more clunks or weird noises. My only concern thus far is the way the rear suspension likes to tuck when accelerating. I'm pretty sure I need a new diff mount. I'll probably go poly. Any good recommendation?
This engine with the 4.1 differential is a match made in heaven. Sure it sucks on the highway but thats what I have the Volvo for. On roads like this it keeps the engine in its power band. The torque multiplication is fantastic.
I was all gung ho about getting rid of the PS but now I'm not so sure. I'm coming from a NEON with manual steering and at first the BMW just felt sort of artificial and numb. But on really twisty road it comes into its own and I feel like I can drive faster with less effort. One of the roads that I was on has more than 100 corners in 5 miles and I can feel the difference in my arms after a while.

I love these tires.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/227/509023774_fa838d2627_o.jpg)

Look familiar? Bet you've seen this road on TV once or twice.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/198/509023720_37d8606744_o.jpg)

(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/203/509050743_aff348226c_o.jpg)

Yum.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/230/509050691_fe160251f2_o.jpg)

(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/231/509025154_996d85094e_o.jpg)

Looks knackered to me. Should I replace it with poly?
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/191/509090469_23e5c0d7d9_o.jpg)

I wasn't kidding when I said 100 corners in 5 miles. The road is so far out of the way that there is no traffic, no cops, no cell phone service and no center line :D
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/211/509074384_b777a78201_o.jpg)

I also had an opportunity to check the speedometer vs a GPS device. With the 195/60 tires, the speedometer is exacly 10% too fast. When the speedo shows 70mph, the GPS says 63mph. This also means that I need to reduce my fuel economy calculations by 10%. 3000rpm at 60mph is kind of silly. But its all for the acceleration right? I might start looking for a 3.91 in the near future. Since I have 2 sets of wheels (one for the highway commute and one for fun) I think I might install 195/70R14 tires on the steel wheels. This should bring the speedometer within 2% of the actual speed and reduce highway fuel consumption.
Title: tjts1
Post by: Alpine003 on May 22, 2007, 12:31:04 PM: Awesome roads. There's something similiar in the midwest but I'm sure you have the better scenery out there. ;)

(http://www.tailofthedragon.com/maps/poster2005.jpg)
Title: tjts1
Post by: ecpreston on May 22, 2007, 01:48:05 PM: sounds like fun! Hey, the sore arms are a reminder of all the fun you had! Power steering sucks. :p

Azenis DO rock. :D

The diff bushing looks ok to me, that gap is supposed to be there (similar to the front control arm bushing design), as long as there aren't big cracks, it's probably fine. How are the subframe and trailing arm bushings?
Title: tjts1
Post by: gearheadE30 on May 22, 2007, 03:06:48 PM: I think I need a new diff bushing as well, although I haven't talken a close look yet. The rear end makes a loud thunk whenever I shift remotely hard, but the car tracks great, so I don't think it is the subframe or anything.

http://www.akgmotorsport.com/e30products.html

AKG sells a delrin diff bushing, that is what I will probably end up with.
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on May 22, 2007, 03:25:01 PM: I don't get any strange noises or clunks from the back end. In fact the suspension feels smooth but I feel like the rear suspension squats too much when accelerating from a stop or when i engage the hand brake on a hill for example. I haven't inspected the sub frame mounts but I have looked at the trailing arm bushings. They all pretty much look like this.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/222/509850883_e9f0067f7d_o.jpg)
I was hoping I could get away with just doing the diff mount because I don't want to take on another big project right now.
Quote from: gearheadE30;26343
AKG sells a delrin diff bushing, that is what I will probably end up with.
I read that derlin bushings are even harder than polyurethane and not really appropriate for a daily driver. I have some experience with poly bushings on my volvos and I liked the results. The poly bushing in this article looks good to me but the author doesn't specify a manufacturer or vendor.
http://bmw.e30tuner.com/articles_polydiff.php
Title: tjts1
Post by: gearheadE30 on May 22, 2007, 04:27:44 PM: Thanks for the info, and possibly saving me from another large project ;)

Those bushings don't look like they are going to have an imminent failure, but the cracking isn't good. Needless to say, I bet the handling and peace-of-mind would improve with replacements.
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on May 26, 2007, 04:51:01 PM: I went on a little shopping trip at the JY for the 1/2 off sale. I found this cover on an 85 318 with a 3.91 diff.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/228/515099754_82c3d0ac35.jpg)

M3 Z3M bushing? This is going to save me a lot of time and money. Even though the standard bushing in my car is not cracked, I can move the diff up and down with one hand and it also clunks when i shift gears. Cost $10.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/199/515099772_09b8329b16_o.jpg)

Also found a Volvo 940 turbo 17" two speed cooling fan with relay. This is going to replace both the clutch fan and the aux fan in the BMW. The fan will be activated through the existing temp switch in the radiator. I'll have to cut down the shroud a bit but otherwise its a direct fit. Cost $12.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/215/515200931_ab2b16316f.jpg)

And finally the fiberglass under hood insulation matt from an ETA. Mine didn't have one so I figure this should cut down on the noise a bit.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/213/515099848_09ed5e7da2.jpg)
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on May 27, 2007, 05:40:39 PM: Holy cwap my poverty spec 318i was equipped with an LSD from the factory.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/201/516801588_4472653c12_o.jpg)

(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/197/518390734_7982a75bfc_o.jpg)
Title: tjts1
Post by: jpod999 on May 27, 2007, 11:17:53 PM: How'd you find a 4.10? I found a 3.91 today but didn't want to pull it because I want a 4.10. Got some euro grills though. :D
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on May 27, 2007, 11:51:54 PM: Quote from: jpod999;26676
How'd you find a 4.10? I found a 3.91 today but didn't want to pull it because I want a 4.10. Got some euro grills though. :D

The 4.1 LSD came in my car from the factory. I just figured out it was an LSD while swapping out the diff cover for the one with the solid bushing I pulled yesterday and discovered the LSD.
Title: tjts1
Post by: jpod999 on May 28, 2007, 10:01:52 AM: Quote from: tjts1;26677
The 4.1 LSD came in my car from the factory. I just figured out it was an LSD while swapping out the diff cover for the one with the solid bushing I pulled yesterday and discovered the LSD.

Whoa that's cool. That means someone ordered it from the dealer.
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on May 28, 2007, 12:41:34 PM: Quote from: jpod999;26688
Whoa that's cool. That means someone ordered it from the dealer.

Yeah I don't know. It was either standard equipment or an option. Did your car come with an open diff from the factory? Either way I'm happy.

The solid diff mount made a world of difference. No more clunky shifts and maybe its just my imagination but I think the rear suspensioun sits about 1/2" higher. I think at this point I have the suspensio where I want it. Now I just have to change the brake fluid and transmission oil. Then I can focus on some cosmetic stuff. Speaking of which.

(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/205/516791487_86734138c9_o.jpg)

(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/251/518390796_b4cb649d2c_o.jpg)

(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/251/518390860_178d39fb6d_o.jpg)
Title: tjts1
Post by: jpod999 on May 28, 2007, 07:20:03 PM: No, the LSD didn't come stock on any 4 doors. The original buyer definately opted for it. Lucky you!
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on May 31, 2007, 02:10:09 AM: I was going to install my newly purchased H4/H1 headlights but then I saw that the headlight brackets were a bit rusty so they had to come out for a quick spray, one thing leads to another and I find myself trying to cut the AUX fan in half with a dremel because it won't come out in one piece. There must be something wrong with me.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/191/522291753_985887c77c.jpg)

Old non functional clifford alarm was hidden behind the passenger side headlight. 2# of weight had to go.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/208/522283046_8bfcb2f79c.jpg)

Familiar sight.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/193/522283018_1e9cd43abb.jpg)

They so purdy
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/204/522282952_a4629f0f0a_o.jpg)
Title: tjts1
Post by: gearheadE30 on May 31, 2007, 04:18:01 PM: Well, I just picked up a new poly diff bushing,hopefully my thunking will go away, too. I'll be amazed if it does little, because the original bushing is more or less eroded into nothing...
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on June 03, 2007, 08:57:15 PM: Finally all 4 headlights are in and working. The H4/H1 combo is a set of Indian made Autopal. The outer lights use 80/100W low/high H4 combo bulbs while the inner lights have 100W H1 high beams. The only reason I didn't go for a nice set of smilies is because I'm greedy and I want 400W of high beam. I decided against building a whole new wiring harness with relays and thick wires like I did on my other cars because the existing wiring is adequate. The whole setup cost $80 shipped including bulbs from Ebay.

(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/197/528860508_d9c6456cee_o.jpg)

The low quality Indian lens looks pitted but its in fact air bubbles in the glass. What do you expact for 1/3 the cost of Cibies.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/254/528949529_d21cbaa0fe_o.jpg)

The beam pattern on the other hand is excellent. I still have to take some descent night pics once I get them aimed.
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1060/528949671_4999406a21_o.jpg)

Side by side with the my old Neon which has 5.75" Hella reflectors with 80/100 H4. The autopal beam pattern is actually wider and more evenly distributed than the hella.
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1224/528862022_71fc273b4f_o.jpg)
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on June 06, 2007, 08:19:08 PM: Its a amazing what you can do with a rattle can.
Before
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1352/533935441_f753ed5afb_o.jpg)

After
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1137/533848574_d34b66dab5_o.jpg)
Title: tjts1
Post by: ducatipaso on June 06, 2007, 09:28:22 PM: that looks nice i gotta do that to my engine too. i think im gonna use wrinkle finish.
Title: tjts1
Post by: gearheadE30 on June 07, 2007, 08:46:37 AM: I see a new project looming in the future :)

Did you just sand it, degrease it, and paint it? It looks amazing, whatever you did
Title: tjts1
Post by: ecpreston on June 07, 2007, 09:11:33 AM: agreed! :cool:
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on June 07, 2007, 10:36:00 AM: First I masked off the bottom side of the cam cover so I don't get any aluminum particles into the engine. Then sanded down the whole thing, clean and degrease, clean off excess dust with a paper towel and alcohol then paint 2 coats, then use a sanding block on the raised areas, mask off the raised areas and spray again to get any scratches that were left after sanding block. Let it bake out in the sun for about a day and ur done. I used Rustoliun high temp BBQ paint in a rattle can. It sounds like a lot of work but I had the car parked for a few days this week so it wasn't a big deal. Total actual work time invested is about 1 hour spread out over 3 days. I didn't spend a lot of time cleaning and painting the sides of the valve cover. It would take a hell of a lot of time to clean behind every bolt. You can't see the sides anyway when its installed. Just focused on the top.
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1157/534633284_88842cf9bd_o.jpg)
Title: tjts1
Post by: Alpine003 on June 07, 2007, 11:00:57 AM: Quote from: tjts1;27305
It would take a hell of a lot of time to clean behind every bolt.

You know you could've just taken off the bolts/grommets. ;) But good job, man you work fast and I think you have done the most amount of work vs. time than most on here. Congrats and keep going. :) I lost my steam after modding my 5th car quite some time ago. :rolleyes: Now, I'm just a lazy old bastard.
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on June 09, 2007, 04:20:28 PM: Today I installed an electric puller fan from a volvo to replace both the clutch fan and the aux fan. The aux fan in front of the radiator weighs 10# because its made out of cast iron. The clutch fan is 3#. new electric fan weighs 5#. I had to cut off part of the shroud to make it fit on the smaller bmw radiator.
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1294/536904753_4a63889520_o.jpg)

Its so pro style... except for the giant gap on the driver's side that I need to fill in.
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1156/537627778_f87e4ea643_o.jpg)

Plenty of room to spare. Just have to route and splice some wires. The fan runs directly off the AUX fan circuit. I had to replace the low speed 15a fuse with a 20a fuse because the volvo fan draws more power. The high speed 30a fuse was fine.
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1219/537747499_58e8c87a62_o.jpg)

I was going to replace all the belts anyway so before putting the car up on jack stands, I cut the PS belt and took it for a spin. Loved it! PS is history.
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1354/537747549_0f9c3ab673_o.jpg)
Title: tjts1
Post by: Alpine003 on June 10, 2007, 12:25:40 AM: Since you've eliminated the PS, why not go all out and relocate the alternator to the trunk to work with the rear diff ala Touring DTM style? ;)

(http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/travel_events/M99/200ta/MH200E_6.jpg)
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on June 23, 2007, 03:44:52 PM: Now I have 4 different types of fabric in my interior. Its a true beater.
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1355/603900932_6eb4adb9a4_o.jpg)
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on July 11, 2007, 12:23:14 AM: The car completed its first real test. A 1200 mile road trip to southern California. I was afraid the sport seats would turn into a real back ache but they are actually quite comfortable for a long stint. With 3.64 diff it returned 32mpg with 3 people on board and the AC on most of the time. Now I feel more comfortable knowing the car can go the distance.
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1323/774868096_ade8276e61_o.jpg)

The route.
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&hl=en&geocode=&saddr=San+Rafael,+CA&daddr=lax+to:Thousand+Oaks,+CA+to:S+Kanan+Dume+Rd+%4034.090000,+-118.815520+to:Kanan+Dume+Rd+%4034.023760,+-118.801870+to:Oxnard,+CA+to:Thousand+Oaks,+CA+to:I-210+E+%4034.276080,+-118.385580+to:Pasadena,+CA+to:I-210+W+%4034.271800,+-118.348990+to:Santa+Maria,+CA+to:Unknown+road+%4034.965530,+-120.650190+to:Oceano,+CA+to:Pismo+Beach,+CA+to:port+san+luis,+ca+to:US-101+N+%4035.225360,+-120.691280+to:Madonna+Rd+%4035.263790,+-120.676740+to:Unknown+road+%4035.300450,+-120.872340+to:S+Bay+Blvd+%4035.363900,+-120.823430+to:37.333041,-122.019653+to:San+Rafael,+CA&mrcr=18,19&mrsp=19&sz=10&mra=dpe&sll=37.370157,-121.81366&sspn=0.519504,0.933838&ie=UTF8&om=1&ll=36.102376,-119.597168&spn=8.446903,14.941406&z=6
Title: tjts1
Post by: dude8383 on July 11, 2007, 01:03:04 AM: Hey, how did you hook up the fan to work on the AUX fan circuit?

I'm assuming it turns on whenever the car needs it right?

Man you're quick!
Title: tjts1
Post by: ose30 on July 11, 2007, 01:55:01 AM: Quote
$3 leather shift knob. It has wires sticking out the bottom. Don't know why but it came out of a 325e

perhaps you have a illuminated version ?
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on July 11, 2007, 02:02:25 AM: Quote from: dude8383;29410
Hey, how did you hook up the fan to work on the AUX fan circuit?

I'm assuming it turns on whenever the car needs it right?

Man you're quick!
The volvo fan had the exact same wires as the aux fan. Low speed, high speed, and ground. I simply pulled the 3 wires going to the aux fan and connected them to the volvo fan. It was a piece of cake. The volvo fan doesn't use an inline resistor to create low speed. Its all built into the motor. It turns on with the AC and whenever the temp switch in the radiator triggers it just like the AUX fan. I replaced the radiator temp switch with a colder 80/88C switch from E36. Low speed comes on exactly at half way on the temp gauge, high speed is a little after that. The volvo fan blew the 15a fuse for low speed so I replaced it with a 25a fuse. Works great thus far but other members have expressed concern about melting the wiring going to the fan relays. I'll keep an eye on it.
Title: tjts1
Post by: Alpine003 on July 11, 2007, 04:06:06 PM: I find it ironic that you painted your valve cover which no one really sees but your car isn't shadowlined yet which can be seen by everyone. :p

Hop to it son!!! ::D
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on July 11, 2007, 04:13:29 PM: I like the chrome. Maybe later when I paint the whole car white I'll black out the trim for contrast.
Title: tjts1
Post by: Master on July 11, 2007, 04:50:46 PM: Leave the chrome, it looks great especially if you manage to get some BBS basketweaves ;)
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on July 11, 2007, 06:04:09 PM: I like the idea but honestly between the steelies and the bottle caps I have enough wheels for now. The steelies are for road trips, bottlecaps/Azenis for the local twisties. I'm sure people around here will hate this idea but I'm leaning toward a new set of hubcaps for the steelies.
http://www.hubcapmike.com/racing_disc_wheelcovers.html
Title: tjts1
Post by: gearheadE30 on July 12, 2007, 08:53:29 AM: IMHO hubcaps just make steelies look worse, and, overall, give the car a "cheaper" look. Once the tires you have wear out, I'd just pick up another set of bottlecaps on the cheap.
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on July 12, 2007, 12:42:23 PM: I must be the only person in the world that likes steelies. I was thinking of turning my car into a 316i just to mess with people. Black bumpers, steelies, center caps, badge... on the outside anyway.
(http://www.r3vlimited.com/gallery/files/7/4/7/5/10_249542.jpg)

(http://www.mwerks.com/gallery/albums//BMW/3-Series/3%20Series%20(E30)/3er%20Coupe%20and%20Sedan/012.jpg)
Title: tjts1
Post by: gearheadE30 on July 13, 2007, 11:42:58 AM: I don't have anything against steelies except that they bend very easily. I just don't like hubcaps...
Title: tjts1
Post by: ose30 on July 16, 2007, 05:32:08 AM: Quote
must be the only person in the world that likes steelies

This is my 316I. Picture was taken in November 1991. That young man is now 19 years old... Time flies ;)

Car have steelies, because winter tires were installed on them. I used to have 318IS plastic centercaps installed, but for some reason they were not on when the picture was taken. Car was sold back in 1993, but i still have those 318IS hubcaps :)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y170/olli951/Zinnoberrot.jpg)
Title: tjts1
Post by: Vladi on July 16, 2007, 02:57:30 PM: Is that a Zender kit on the car? :D
Title: tjts1
Post by: ose30 on July 16, 2007, 04:25:59 PM: No. It's an original BMW body kit.
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on July 16, 2007, 04:45:51 PM: HAHA nice pic. Are you in Sweden? I ask because of the 240 in the background and it looks cold.
Title: tjts1
Post by: ose30 on July 17, 2007, 01:42:43 AM: Almost, i am located in Finland. Still plenty of 240's around.
Title: tjts1
Post by: Zilla on July 19, 2007, 12:15:16 PM: steelies are good cause you don't have to worry about damaging them, cause you can also just buy another one dirt cheap!
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on July 22, 2007, 09:38:48 AM: I bought a 'new' JY sunroof panel to replace my rusty one, so while it was out of the car I tried a little roller painting. The panel was originally metallic blue. After seeing how this one turned out, I'm going to tempt fate and do the whole car.

These pics were taken after 2 of 3 coats, before any sanding or polishing.
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1155/868383692_6feca0d59e_b.jpg)

(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1147/868383856_af495ac296_b.jpg)

(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1044/868384398_a54e424593_b.jpg)

Indoors under fluorescent light. You can see the flaws in the paint.
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1389/867536255_e48bf656b2_b.jpg)

Extreme closeup! These imperfections should get knocked down after a third coat, sanding, polish and wax.
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1421/868384964_d7960984ea_b.jpg)
Title: tjts1
Post by: Alpine003 on July 23, 2007, 11:54:20 AM: Good luck on the roller painting. Personally, it's too much work and there are ways you can achieve the same results with a lot less labor.

I think some people will be amazed at what a $60 Harbor Freight spray gun can do. As for the paint, Dupli-Color has come out with "Paint Shop" quarts of auto paint that is reasonable in price. Dupont also has a lower line of paint called Nason but I wouldn't recommend it based on my experience. As people say, it's mostly in the prep and post finishing.

I've painted 3 cars before and learned a lot from each one. I just can't imagine putting in 5+ x the amount of labor for a roller paint job for a < $5k car imho.

I know everyone's budget and living conditons are different but I would rather spray it or take it to a suitable Maaco than to do a roller paint job. Also, considering this is a BMW, you'll always encounter those elitest snobs although I tend to agree when it comes to roller painting a BMW.

Also unless you have clear coat, the paint will fade over time. I did a 1 stage enamel job before and it looked really good for 3 months after wetsanding and buffing. It was too much maintenance to keep it looking good thereafter.

I'm just trying to save you some headaches but you can obviously do as you wish.
My $.02
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on July 24, 2007, 10:07:33 AM: As far as the work is concerned, sanding down the panel with 320 grit took about 10 minutes (you would have to do this anyway for a proper spray job), each coat takes about 1 minute to lay down, wait 24 hours to cure, sand with 1000 grit for another 5 minutes between coats, three coats total. I have about 30 minutes of actual labor into this panel. Multiply that by the whole car and ur looking at maybe 20 hours of labor in worse case scenario including the removal of trim, bumpers etc.

Thus far I have $68 into the whole paint job including supplies to paint the most of the car. I'll probably hit $100 before I'm done. Honestly I don't see any cheaper way of painting the car short of magic markers.

The reason I decided against spraying the car:
I've never sprayed a car before. I doubt my results would be all that great. I have roller painted a sail boat before though.
Lots of labor intensive masking.
Need to set up a tend to keep the dust out. My garage is too dusty with not enough ventilation. I would have to wear a jumpsuit and respirator in an already hot garage. Not my cup of tea.
A good part of the paint ends up suspended in the air. The whole process is very wasteful when you take into account the tent, masking material and wasted paint. With the roller 1.5 quarts of paint should be enough to do 3 coats of paint.
And finally I wouldn't be able to drive the car while in the middle of the process.

As for the the elitist snobs, bring it on! I wouldn't call you a snob because you make good reasonable argument and you speak from experience (and you've helped me in the past ;) )

Brightside is a polyurethane normally rolled onto boats that spend their whole lives outdoors. My car is garaged. If it fades I can always polish it or repaint another coat. It doesn't take a lot of effort to repair.

The rest of the process will be documented here.
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=92000

Another roller painted E30.
http://wp1016621.wp027.webpack.hosteurope.de/fotost/f01655/f01655.htm
Title: tjts1
Post by: Alpine003 on July 24, 2007, 05:07:10 PM: Quote from: tjts1;30270
I wouldn't call you a snob because you make good reasonable argument and you speak from experience (and you've helped me in the past ;) )

Wow, thanks. ;) If you have the inclination and determination then more power to you as all your points seem valid for your situation. As for post-maintenance and upkeep, it should be a lot better for you considering you are just painting it white.

Just wondering why no one has bothered to do an "BMW Art" car theme as long as they were brushing paint on their cars. This would seem like a good time to do one if you were the creative type.

(http://www.bmwworld.com/artcars/80_done.jpg)
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on July 24, 2007, 07:21:34 PM: LOL I'm not sure my art skills are up to the level of a BMW art car. Maybe if I smoked a lot of weed or something. I'm just too boring. Of all the colors in the world I picked white. Thats got to tell you something right there.
Title: tjts1
Post by: Alpine003 on July 25, 2007, 12:28:34 AM: Quote from: tjts1;30315
Of all the colors in the world I picked white. Thats got to tell you something right there.

"Weightless" white = Race cars = more stickers. lol. :cool:

I personally like white as that is one of my favorite colors. My preference would've been to get a white E30 if you couldn't tell by my name. ;)
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on July 30, 2007, 06:12:26 PM: (http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1346/953697743_aad409abd8_o.jpg)
Title: tjts1
Post by: jpod999 on July 31, 2007, 12:19:13 AM: Damn son, that's pretty good. Keep us updated. You going to paint the black bumper trim white too?
Title: tjts1
Post by: gearheadE30 on July 31, 2007, 09:44:47 AM: wow, I'm impressed :)
Title: tjts1
Post by: Alpine003 on July 31, 2007, 12:33:04 PM: Looks good now but show us some pics a few months down the line. :D
Title: tjts1
Post by: Beans on September 25, 2007, 01:04:09 PM: Any progress?!!? UPDATE!!! :D
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on September 25, 2007, 01:53:05 PM: I forgot to update this thread but through the magic of cut and paste...

I haven't made any progress on the pain job since the last time. Its been so long I had to wash the car yesterday. So I took some close up pics in the sun.

Been driving around with masking tape on the car for a month now :rofl1:
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1419/1362143827_7e8223fd67_b.jpg)

Still no sanding or polish. Just the way it came off the roller.
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1198/1362185285_2a18ee385b_b.jpg)

The sunroof has been sanded and polished by hand, the rest of the roof is rough
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1183/1363074006_ac48500a6f_b.jpg)

The trunk lid needs another coat. You can see the lines where the paint is still too thin
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1419/1363074504_8a689ace61_b.jpg)

Straight off the roller.
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1052/1362154839_f05334967d_b.jpg)

Hopefully I get the metal below the bumper painted before the end of the month... hopefully. I'm leaving the original diamond swarz as is between the tail lights.
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1415/1362143863_67af3fa33e_b.jpg)

(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1167/1362158545_2a30dda489_b.jpg)

Still sporting the masking tape.
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1435/1362143841_bb3eb3532d_b.jpg)

(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1014/1362143831_c22f3d3123_b.jpg)

No more antenna.
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1235/1363041518_f2f16eabf6_b.jpg)
Its still a work in progress. To be continued.

And for comparison, a 20 year old factory finish on my GF's Volvo.
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1126/1388461747_513ec7ffb3_b.jpg)
Title: tjts1
Post by: nomad on July 21, 2008, 12:52:28 AM: I have the same fan as you. It looks like you took the box that the fan plugged into on the Volvo, is that a big relay? Think I need that?
I tested my fan at the JY on a +/- battery jump and it worked great.
How did you find what was the high and low fan speed and where to splice each one in? I'd like to get it to jump up to the higher level when the temp is high or A/C is on.

If that's not possible should I just jump it straight to the aux fan? I want to be sure it comes on when idling and in hot temps.

I'm bad with electrical, good with the wrench.

Thanks!

Quote from: tjts1;27468

(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1294/536904753_4a63889520_o.jpg)

Its so pro style... except for the giant gap on the driver's side that I need to fill in.
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1156/537627778_f87e4ea643_o.jpg)

(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1219/537747499_58e8c87a62_o.jpg)

(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1354/537747549_0f9c3ab673_o.jpg)
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on July 28, 2008, 07:32:16 PM: A year later and the roller paint job is finished... with a rattle can, some zip ties and a volvo airdam. :p

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3091/2711503997_7583f7db67_o.jpg)

Now if I could just find that last foglight panel.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3159/2711503955_dd089f31b5_o.jpg)
Title: tjts1
Post by: KyleTaylor on August 24, 2008, 10:52:04 PM: How has your paint held up? I had a single stage mercedes once and it was a pita to keep shiney...
Title: tjts1
Post by: rufiox426 on January 15, 2009, 04:59:36 PM: How do i remove the expansion tank is there a way to do it right or just yank it out?
Quote from: tjts1;25156

Just when I thought all is well, I found a small drip where the expansion tank meets the radiator. DOH! Seems like the added pressure of a functional thermostat found the weakest link in the system. Pulled the expansion tank.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/174/484473169_dede6f06d5.jpg)

Radiator still in the car.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/230/484441710_fbfb6bcf9c.jpg)

Added lots of RTV sealant over and under the old rubber seals.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/201/484440418_86762922dc.jpg)

Top drain.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/202/484473231_7403b61365.jpg)

And reinstalled the expansion tank.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/180/484473247_77b76f4e5b.jpg)

Now i have to wait another 24 hours for the RTV to fully cure before I can add coolant to the system.
Title: tjts1
Post by: Jimmy Lewis on January 16, 2009, 12:14:32 PM: Its amazing how well the roller job came out. I have seen it done in the past and I can't say that it has ever looked so good. The white probably helps hide the flaws but I guarentee your paint looks better from 10ft than most 17 year old factory jobs. Good shit.
Title: tjts1
Post by: tjts1 on January 21, 2009, 03:44:25 PM: Quote from: rufiox426;64752
How do i remove the expansion tank is there a way to do it right or just yank it out?
Remove the 2 screws holding down the black plastic cover over the top of the expansion tank.
Quote from: Jimmy Lewis;64803
Its amazing how well the roller job came out. I have seen it done in the past and I can't say that it has ever looked so good. The white probably helps hide the flaws but I guarentee your paint looks better from 10ft than most 17 year old factory jobs. Good shit.
Thank you. The white paint helps hide a lot of flaws but in person you can spot them easy. Pretty from afar but far from pretty. But a 18 months later and the paint is holding up very well.
Title: tjts1
Post by: thedguy on February 28, 2010, 11:07:44 PM: I'm a bit late to the party but...

Nice to see your roll on job came out better than mine. I tried my hood and trunk and couldn't get the results I wanted, though I was trying to do BLACK! as I wanted to avoid the obvious signs of a color change. I too have a 4 door Diamondshwartz

I made the hood/trunk look decent and left it alone until last month when I finally could afford to send it in for paint. I've got a single stage paint job done over the rustoluem so it'll be interesting to see if it causes any problems.

BTW, Azenis = The Shit! I have them on my Miata/racer. I put my e30's daily wheel/tires on it for a week and thought I had worn out every single bushing in the car and broke my steering rack by doing that. Stiff sidewalls + 0 tread squirm makes for some seriously awesome steering response.