M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => Engine + Driveline => Topic started by: badboypolar on March 27, 2007, 06:51:48 PM
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I just finished my rebuild and started it up today and well it runs like crap. I double checked everything and I can not figure out why it is running like it is.
I've replace everything except the lifters, injectors and timing chain. The timing chain looked brand new so I opted not to. Everything else was replaced including bearings and pistons. I also replaced the CPS. Also my oil pressure light is out so I will need to replace it quite soon.
It is having trouble idiling and I have a check engine light on that I will need to check. If I give it some throttle and hold it around 1000 to 1500 rpm it seems to run okay but is still a little rough. I can also hear a loud ticking sound that comes from the valve cover however it gets louder as the RPM's climb.
:confused:
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shoulda done the chain as well. lifters, did you mark each one as to its original position? also did you soak them upside down in oil for a few hours before installing them?
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I did not soak each lifter in oil upside down. This would probably be the loud lifter tick huh? I also did not mark each position they where in. A big over site on my part during tear down.
Would would be causing my killer idle and generally running rough?
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Would would be causing my killer idle and generally running rough?
probably a vacuum leak. double check all the hoses and connections
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Cam's not in time?
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i didnt mark where my lifters came from either. although, i wouldnt mind getting some newer lighter ones when my engine goes bac together
its very unforetunate that you're experiencing this. as said, it sounds like a vacuum leak. is all the pre-engine side ok? eg, intake manifold (i think in the US they're called headers?)
dodgy AFM or ICV?
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I was thinking it could be the ICV but I will check for vacumm leaks first. I'm pretty sure the cams are in time.
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I'm debating whether or not to redo the lifter and cam install. It's a lot of work but that tick is so loud it's almost like the valve is hitting. I'll check the cam timing again but I set those are dead 0 so I don't think it's those unless one of them sliped.
I think my vacumm leak is coming from the bulk head so I'll have to fix that also.
And I'm leaking oil from the front timing cover, and of course I can't see where because the A\C is in the way.
This car is the biggest rebuild ever. I had no idea when I bought it that there was so much wrong with this thing inside the engine bay. I've had to replace damn near everything. On the outside it's cherry looking and the inside is quite nice also except two dash cracks. I don't think I've ever been more frustrated with a car.
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I think it is normal to have a few issues with a project like this. You'll be very happy once you get it sorted.
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I think it is normal to have a few issues with a project like this. You'll be very happy once you get it sorted.
..and don't cut corners. Also be VERY PATIENT with such missions.
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Well I found a couple of issues so far. The idle valve was installed backwards so air was going the wrong way and the coolant temp (ECM) and oil pressure were plugged in wrong. That cleared the check engine light, however it is still running quite rough and doesn't idle correctly. It also doesn't start correctly and requires roughly 15 tries before it will rough idle. I checked the timing and it looks okay. I am going to zero the timing out again and check the lifters and torque on the cam caps.
I will not cut any corners as this is going to be my race motor so I can not afford to do anything less than perfect. I am just being impatient since it's been two months since I got it and it hasn't run correctly since before I bought it, so I'm a little anxious to get it running.
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i feel your pain
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Well I found a couple of issues so far. The idle valve was installed backwards so air was going the wrong way and the coolant temp (ECM) and oil pressure were plugged in wrong. That cleared the check engine light, however it is still running quite rough and doesn't idle correctly. It also doesn't start correctly and requires roughly 15 tries before it will rough idle. I checked the timing and it looks okay. I am going to zero the timing out again and check the lifters and torque on the cam caps.
I will not cut any corners as this is going to be my race motor so I can not afford to do anything less than perfect. I am just being impatient since it's been two months since I got it and it hasn't run correctly since before I bought it, so I'm a little anxious to get it running.
Kind of a dumb question but are all your spark plug wires hooked correctly?
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I just finished my rebuild and started it up today and well it runs like crap. I double checked everything and I can not figure out why it is running like it is. :confused:
You can try to reset ECU. My engine was working like yours when lambda sensor was dead..
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The timing chain looked brand new so I opted not to.
This is a nice quote, that's all I'll say. ;)
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How do you reset the ECM?
Spark wires are hooked up correctly.
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disconect battery for 1-2 minutes..
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Also, make sure your ICV is able to work well and the door moves freely. Adjust your throttle cable if you haven't already. Last night I was working on my TB delete and the car went haywire b/c the ICV still had WD-40 from cleaning it AND my throttle cable was adjusted too tightly.
DOUBLE CHECK all connections like everyone mentioned. After I got everything squared away, somehow the ICV hose that is underneath the intake manifold disconnected! It ran like crap and scared the shit out of me at 4am lol.
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Found some issues. Inlet fuel hose (to the fuel rail) was leaking. Surprised me seeing as how it was brand new and is steel braided. Fixed that. Upon having to fix that, I found oil all over the inside of my intake runnners which was clean before I put it on. So I'm going to install my catch can before I start it again as I think it was sucking oil in from the valve cover.
Compression check came out
1) 220
2) 215
3) 215
4) 235
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Found some issues. Inlet fuel hose (to the fuel rail) was leaking. Surprised me seeing as how it was brand new and is steel braided. Fixed that. Upon having to fix that, I found oil all over the inside of my intake runnners which was clean before I put it on. So I'm going to install my catch can before I start it again as I think it was sucking oil in from the valve cover.
Compression check came out
1) 220
2) 215
3) 215
4) 235
Bentley states that compression should be between 142-156 ...
When I checked mine it was around 150 .
How did yours get so high ?
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Bentley states that compression should be between 142-156 ...
When I checked mine it was around 150 .
How did yours get so high ?
Probably checked it cold. They tend to be in the 200-210 range on the avg for used motors.
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Well for one the head was warped and subsiquently has .010 removed from it to make it true and flat. But I bought a one sized bigger head gasket hoping that would make up for how much was removed. I will need to check my AFR by wideband now to see if I need to go up one size on my injectors to compensate for the higher compression.
And the whole engine has been rebuilt, so it's not used. It's got barely 2 gallons of gas run through it and hasn't run smoothly yet.
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Sounds like the intake cam may be retarded. I read that if they are a toothe retarded then these symptoms will show, including rough idle and a lack of willingness to rev. I'll try to find a link..
Good luck with the rebuild
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Dang I forgot to check if the cam was good with the timing chain. I only checked the cam timing itself. Guess I have to pull that stupid valve cover again.
It's one thing after another...