M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => Engine + Driveline => Topic started by: m44power on March 23, 2007, 11:35:53 AM
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anyone have done the famous fan mod delete ? it worth in ours m42's ? gains ?
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whats a fan mod delete? do you mean removing the fan clutch? if you do so without installing an aftermarket electric fan, your odds of overheating and messin up your engine are greater.. i currently have an electric fan and it works great.. way better than a fan clutch anyday
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yes i mean to remove the fan and his clutch and install an electric fan so your engine revs without heavy fan and clutch
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Is it worth it power-wise? Probably, on lower HP cars, a few HP can make a difference
It also leaves the engine bay much more open and clean (easier to work in). That alone is worth it in my opinion.
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I'd like to see this one through.:)
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m50 guys say the fan mod delete give aprox. 7-10hp
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I highly doubt the power increase is that much, I'd say 5 tops. The only thing the mod does is remove reciprocating mass... The engine will *probably* rev much faster though
Out of curiosity, are there any specific E30 kits?
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i agrree i think does not exist for e30's but its easy to use a e36 fan with lilttle work and some wire...
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http://www.understeer.com/fanclutchmod.shtml
Check this out...
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I've been driving with this mod since last July.
I noticed a little more free reving but nothing major. I also installed the 80C/88C temp sensor for the electric fan, and deleted the A/C including the condensor.
I havnt had any problems overheating even in 90 degree weather. The only time it even starts getting above stright up on the temp gauge is when I'm sitting in a drive through for a few min in very hot weather. Then when im just below 3/4 on the temp guage the high setting on the electric fan kicks on and cools it right back normal.
I like it and would do it again, but I wouldnt suggest it for anyone that wants to keep their A/C unless they want to install an extra aux fan.
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Ask Febi, he has one on his car that fits very well. Looks and works great.
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I did a fan delete on my car and used an 80/88 switch, but the fan doesn't come on. I ran a continuity check across the switch when the car was warm and the switch is closing and there is alot of resistance across the switch. Anyone have any suggestions?
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i was going to ask this question awhile back but i'm glad someone else did.
what do these fans cost normally?
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I paid $69.00 for mine and I love it. My a/c worked better also, just get a high cfm fan, and it will work fine.
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Just a fan, or did you get a shrouded fan?
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I checked the switch again, I took the switch out of the radiator and heated it with a heat gun to see if it worked, and it did, but I had to get it really hot. So I checked continuity again and watched it. as the switch got cooler, the resistance increased. So the switch isn't either on or off, it's more like the coolant temp sensor, where the hotter it gets, the core current it allows to flow. My issue is that not enough current is flowing to the relay to close the fan circuit at the temperature that it is supposed to. Maybe it has something to do with there being an old relay and it takes more current than normal to trigger it. Has anyone had this problem?
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Just a fan, or did you get a shrouded fan?
I got a 16" s blade puller fan. (kinda looks like the aux fan, but mounts behind the radiator) No shrould by the way.
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sweet $69 only?! that's awesome :)
do you have it hooked up to your temp switch so it turns on automatically
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Any thoughts on CFM? The 16" fans I am looking at range from 1.3k to 3k CFM, and from $66.00 to over $300!
I can't imagine we would need the big dog...
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mine is like 2750 cfms's iirc, 16" obv.
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I removed the fan clutch and rewired the A/C fan so that it works on the lower of the two heat ranges of the thermoswitch. Realy easy and cost nothing but time. I also removed the A/C condensor and made a simple bracket to support the A/C aux fan. Works like a charm even in the summer.
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sweet $69 only?! that's awesome :)
do you have it hooked up to your temp switch so it turns on automatically
I wired mine right to the fuse block so it turns on with the motor. In the winter I can just pull out the fuse to keep it off. The fan can be heard from the font of the car, but not the inside.
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What the best idea when going about this then? Install a temp switch in to the coolant flow somewhere, and whammy? or use one of the stock temp switches? or should I just redneck out and throw a toggle switch on er? LOL
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just install the OEM fan sensor in the right side of your radiator and use the OEM fan of the >95 E36's
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Any pic's of a sensor installed in the radiator? By the way my fan clutch just free spins, you can hold it and rev the motor typical of these fan clutches my m52 fan clutch did the same thing. I ready to go electric fan.
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Any pic's of a sensor installed in the radiator? By the way my fan clutch just free spins, you can hold it and rev the motor typical of these fan clutches my m52 fan clutch did the same thing. I ready to go electric fan.
Last edited by ecorrea21 : Today at 09:57 PM.
this is fine the fan clutch is a viscous unit that uses a fluid that locks the fan clutch to the shaft when the temp reaches a certain point.
if i use the lower temp side of the fan switch at what temp does it come on with the pre 95 E36 temp switch?
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Any pic's of a sensor installed in the radiator? By the way my fan clutch just free spins, you can hold it and rev the motor typical of these fan clutches my m52 fan clutch did the same thing. I ready to go electric fan.
ya anyone have a pic of a setup i would really like to see how diffrent ppl set their's up..
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(http://www.understeer.com/images/tech/fanclutchmod08.jpg)
this is an m3 radiator but its the same sensor in the same place for all e30's and e36's radiator
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I checked the switch again, I took the switch out of the radiator and heated it with a heat gun to see if it worked, and it did, but I had to get it really hot. So I checked continuity again and watched it. as the switch got cooler, the resistance increased. So the switch isn't either on or off, it's more like the coolant temp sensor, where the hotter it gets, the core current it allows to flow. My issue is that not enough current is flowing to the relay to close the fan circuit at the temperature that it is supposed to. Maybe it has something to do with there being an old relay and it takes more current than normal to trigger it. Has anyone had this problem?
You know, I might be having the same issue.
Did you ever resolve this?
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7-10 HP???
Shananigans!
I've done it. Won't do it again.
Wast of time and money.
Save your cash to put toward a chip and a flywheel.
J.
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7-10 HP???
Shananigans!
I've done it. Won't do it again.
Wast of time and money.
Save your cash to put toward a chip and a flywheel.
J.
Deep Thoughts, with Stuart Smalley.
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You know, I might be having the same issue.
Did you ever resolve this?
No thats incorrect, its just a switch. Do you have the PN of the switch you are using?
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7-10 HP???
Shananigans!
I've done it. Won't do it again.
Wast of time and money.
Save your cash to put toward a chip and a flywheel.
How much did you spend? So far mine has cost $40 and I have everything I need, just havn't gotten it in the car yet. If the fan clutch is indeed shot, this seems like a good deal to me.
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So whats the verdict are the numbers real or not? If so i would really like to do this on my car. :)
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Without the fan and clutch there is a definite increase in power. With the electric fan(s) on there is an increased electrical load but no more than the alternator has normally. The only question is how much is the power gain. Less than 5 HP is hard to feel when driving. If you could tell the difference it would immediately become "normal". I remember a big debate in circle track racing about the "Ram Clutch". It went into a mechanical lock up once underway - no clurch slippage. One of the doubters said, "yeah, how much is that good for - a hundreth of a second? The answer was, "Hey, ten of those is a tenth!"
Any body got nine more?
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In the winter I disconnect the power to my AC clutch so I can activate low speed on the volvo fan using the AC button whenever I want to. At constant 65mph, the MPG gauge drops by 3mpg (my estimate) with the fan switched on. Mpg just right back up when I switch it off.
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mine cost me £30 in total to do and it is a worthwhile mod imo as you get more space up front and theoretically more power, although i didn't feel any difference. i also have a switch on the dash to knock it on and off as well as the thermoswitch.
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I got mine in a few weeks ago, and it made a huge difference in making the car quieter. The old clutch was completely shot. When the fan comes on, the alternator load eliminates some of the difference, but it is still more responsive than before. The fan really doesn't come on that often, and it has never had to go to high speed.
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schematic of wiring to thermoswitch?
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schematic of wiring to thermoswitch?
I ran two new fused power leads from the junction block on the firewall (above where the battery would be on other models) to two relays. I used the low speed wire to the A/C fan resistor to activate the relays. One relay powers the high speed side of the A/C fan and the other one activates a new puller fan mounted to the engine side of the radiator. The connection to activate the relays was made after the A/C and low temp radiator wires come together as a black wire just above #17 which is the resistor on the A/C fan motor. This way both fans come on with the A/C and/or the low temp radiator switch. It's overkill but you need to move a lot of air for A/C efficiency in Texas. It blows colder than a witch's tit!
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This is the best picture i have of mine....
(http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l309/Dzickel/DSC00031.jpg)
I have it hard wired to a switch in the car so i can leave it on at the track w/o my car on
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Yours is a lot lower-profile than mine. Eventually I might just use a piece of sheet metal with a cutout the size of the fan.
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u169/gearheadE30/IM000176.jpg)