M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => Engine + Driveline => Topic started by: ZeroG on March 13, 2007, 01:37:30 AM
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Man it was a chore, the damn ARP studs make it a bitch to manuver it off..
Anyways, I was kind if dissapointed, I thought it was going to be all shiny, and instead it was all black.. :( The car is FI so I run it kinda rich to be on the safe side.
The car is a '95 318 with an Eaton S/C. Car had a ,ajor top end drebuild about 2 years ago. Last Dynoed at 209 RWHP...
What do you guys think? Does it look OK? The reason the head was removed was sue to a minor water jacket leak from the "profile" gasket, I believe. I did not seen signs of a leak on that seal, but it was going through about a half a gallon of coolant every two track days..
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d163/ZeroG21/IMG_0005-1.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d163/ZeroG21/IMG_0006-1.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d163/ZeroG21/IMG_0007-1.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d163/ZeroG21/IMG_0008-2.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d163/ZeroG21/IMG_0009-2.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d163/ZeroG21/IMG_0010-1.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d163/ZeroG21/IMG_0011.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d163/ZeroG21/IMG_0012.jpg)
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Colour looks OK, it is a combustion chamber after all. May be the coolant, but it may be worthwhile checking the valve seats. Check for cracks near the cam bearing journal bases and get a pressure check.
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was only the head rebuilt? i would say it looks alright as well especially if she's running rich.
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was only the head rebuilt? i would say it looks alright as well especially if she's running rich.
Yeah, only the head was rebuilt. I did not have the $$$$ to get into the bottom end. Not then atleast.
How should I got about cleaning this off? According to the Pelican Article Kimwipes, Rubbing Alcohol, and Brake Parts cleaner along with a plastic brush thing attached to a dremel or drill.
Anyone know where to get the plastic brush wheel from?
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Anyone know where to get the plastic brush wheel from?
Try Home Depot or Lowes. It's a plastic cup style brush that attaches to a power drill. Here are some before and after pics with an M20 rebuild from last year.
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Try Home Depot or Lowes. It's a plastic cup style brush that attaches to a power drill. Here are some before and after pics with an M20 rebuild from last year.
Wow!!! Nice.. That gives me hope.. I'll be taking a trip to the hardware store.. Do you know what the brush is called?
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It's a paint stripper or something.
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the scotch brite wheel? I did it by hand and got it fairly clean.
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It's a paint stripper or something.
I got these two items, is this what you are talking about?
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d163/ZeroG21/IMG_0020.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d163/ZeroG21/IMG_0019-1.jpg)
I just want to make sure I don't damage anything in the process. So far I have just been using lacour thinner and lint free wipes, but it seems kind of labor intensive.
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I have the head off, and the lower and upper timing covers and timing chain guides removed. In order to get the lower cover off I had to remove the crank pulley. So now the crank pulley is off as well.
I am now in the process of cleaning the block as well as the cyl., but I need to rotate the crank to get each piston to the top of each cyl. so that I can clean them. My question is that how do I know where top dead center is when I rotate the crank to clean each piston. Also when I am reinstalling the crank pulley how do I know that I am put it back on in the proper position?
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TDC is just that, TCD. When the piston is at the top and for that tiny hair of a moment is isnt going up or down. When you turn cyl 1 up and its reaches top thats TDC. Same with Cyl 2, Cyl 3 and Cyl 4. When you go retime the motor just make sure Cyl 1 is up at TDC and your all set.
If you want to find exact TDC buy a dial indiactor and a bridge.
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If you want to find exact TDC buy a dial indiactor and a bridge.
:confused:
Please explain?
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I have the head off, and the lower and upper timing covers and timing chain guides removed. In order to get the lower cover off I had to remove the crank pulley. So now the crank pulley is off as well.
I am now in the process of cleaning the block as well as the cyl., but I need to rotate the crank to get each piston to the top of each cyl. so that I can clean them. My question is that how do I know where top dead center is when I rotate the crank to clean each piston. Also when I am reinstalling the crank pulley how do I know that I am put it back on in the proper position?
Never mind... I found out that everything is keyed, so there is no way I could mess this up...
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If you are referring to the key in the flywheel....be VERY careful. There is a key on EACH side so you could actually get the crank 180deg off! Have the spark plug out of cylinder 1 and use a small rod to make sure #1 is up when you use the key! I accidentally got it backwards once long ago.
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I know the 3M pads you have are great for cleaning/finishing aluminum. I've used them before when I had large photos mounted to aluminum sheets. Be carefull though, it does act like finishing sand paper. So it does take off some metal, just don't go crazy. I'd also recommend some sort of respirator, you'll be getting some black boogers otherwise!!! Kinda nasty, and aluminum is linked to Alzheimer's somehow.
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dont use thta wheel you have pictured
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Cylinder 2 exhaust and Cylinder 3 intake valves are done! Bent probably, otherwise you are pushing them in from the other side. They should be closed and flush.
As for the wheels, don't use the one you have pictured. Get a cup wire wheel, fine not course.
Correct me if I'm not seeing it correctly in your pictures.
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^^^ +1
Agreed. Only use those pads, gently. I wouldn't use the wheel. Aluminum is really soft, as you know probably. I'd go slowly using my hands only personally, shouldn't take too much muscle to clean it up.
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Cylinder 2 exhaust and Cylinder 3 intake valves are done! Bent probably, otherwise you are pushing them in from the other side. They should be closed and flush.
Correct me if I'm not seeing it correctly in your pictures.
I am really not sure about this.. I have had other people look at the head and no one even mentioned that. I can tell you that in the photos the head is locked at TDC with the lobes for Cyl pointing in.
I might want to add that my car has a 272 x 10.5 cam on both the intake side so there is a lot of overlap.
What is the reason that you think they should be closed and flush?
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So you pulled the head off then re-installed the cams?
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So you pulled the head off then re-installed the cams?
No, Just pulled the head off cleaned it and I am now in the process of reinstallation. I needed to replace the HG!