M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => General Topics => Topic started by: 1991318is on March 29, 2006, 11:27:12 PM
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Just wonderin what pads you all are running on your m42's. I havent decided what to do for mine, suggestions?
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Well, if keeping the stockers, I have LOVED the Axxis Ultimates. I also use Zimmerman crossdrilled rotors and ATE Super Blue fluid. Yeah yeah, x-drilled is bad...if the holes are drilled in after and not stress-relieved. Zimmerman takes care of that. I have not had any fade with the Axxis pads, the cold bite is rad, the hot pad performance is out of this world, and dust is not too bad (less than stock). I have run stockers & Pagid Street pads before, and the Axxis ones KILL them in all respects. I do not even have squealing issues.
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Nice, so axxis is on the list of possibilities. I've been looking at Mintex red box, anyone know how those do on track. I want cold bite, which it sounds like axxis would provide, but I know ireland engineering suggests the mintex red box so curious how those work out.
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yep Zimmerman crossdrilled rotors on the front and I have stockers on the back. I have padgid pads. The pads are pretty good but they will be replaced w/ hawk hps's. the padgids squeek sometimes, although not very often.
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Always used ATE powerslots on most of my cars to date.
Currently on Hawks. They WORK as they are supposed to, however, just like most perf. pads they squeal. I have HP plus and HPS on the cars. I'd get them again when they are due to be replaced. Squealing isn't consistent and it adds character to the car :rolleyes:
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I used to use the ATE Powerslots, but they warped on me after 1 autox. That was the end of that. They worked well though.
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make sure you guys break them in right, the rotors as well as pads... im sure you do though. has anybody here put calipers from another bigger bmw on their m42? i thought it would be a cost effective way for lots more stopping help, keeping same size wheels, too.
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make sure you guys break them in right, the rotors as well as pads... im sure you do though. has anybody here put calipers from another bigger bmw on their m42? i thought it would be a cost effective way for lots more stopping help, keeping same size wheels, too.
E30M3 :cool:
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but i assume that would ruin the cost-effective goal? ill check bmp..
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Seriously now...as to a direct plug and play caliper swap, no dice on anything low budget as far as I have seen/heard with regards to "conversion" to accomodate "bigger" calipers off other bimmers or similar set up cars. Since our cars share the same as the e30 6cyl cars, they aren't an option. Going to e36 rotors is only an option when you have the e30m3 setup and even then you need to get a rotor spacer.
For stock configurations; a fresh set of SS lines, good high temp fluid, good rotors and pads you're pretty much as cost effective as you can get. I have used that for a while with stock motors and been satisfied with it for the most part.
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gotcha, thanks. i was kinda talking out of my arse..thinking aloud i guess. i also meant like 535is calipers or something but now i see..
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..sadly the e28s offer little to us save differentials and other odds and ends...hmm wait i take that back..you can shoehorn an m30 into an e30 if u want.
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Mintex Red Boxes get a big thumbs up from me.
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Mintex Red Boxes get a big thumbs up from me.
Sweet, ordered those yesterday, hopefully they'l come soon so I can put them on w/ my new springs and shocks.
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I have used Hawk HPS last year and loved them, I also have used Axxis pads they stop good but pad dusting is excissive.
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http://www.massivebrakes.com If you want real brakes, this is the place to get them. If not, then stick with your OEM rotors and buy good pads.
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Well I have had massive success with Carbotech compounds. They are not for your street driver tho. I have run the Pathner+ pads on both my Vettes and the E30 Turbo car. They dust like crazy, make a hell of a lot of noise, and don't tend to work any better then stock until warmed up (need about 250F before they are really biting). But once they are warmed up you can give yourself whiplash very well. Good for the serious driver that is heavy into AutoX and track days but doesn't want to swap rotors/pads between events.
That said I just got Mintex reds for the 318is as I'm just using it as a daily driver and not doing anything crazy on the street with it.
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Hawk HPS are the best street pads I've ever used.
-Less squealing and dust than stock
-no need to heat them up like the axxis ultimates
-much better bite than Mintex
hawk HT-10 on the track=:eek:
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Hawk HPS are the best street pads I've ever used.
-Less squealing and dust than stock
-no need to heat them up like the axxis ultimates
-much better bite than Mintex
hawk HT-10 on the track=:eek:
I tend to agree but the Mintex Red box offers better initial cold bite and dusts slightly less than the HPS as well as squeal less. However, HPS offers the better bite after warmed up. I say if you're just a cruiser or don't drive agressive, the Mintex are decent set of pads.
BTW, I'm running the HPS currently and love them for my driving style. ;)
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ATE Superblue liquid, stock rotors and calipers. Padgid pads. So far I like them but they squeal sometimes and make a lot of dust. They're not expensive though. Used on the track, they perform good up until a certain point. I need bigger brakes lol
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I just took the Mintexs out for AutoX today. They aren't bad for a stock pad better then I expected.
I've run Hawk HPS and HP+ and thought they were not that great for the price. Carbotechs were only slightly more and silimiar noise/dust and much better bite. The Bobcat compound is closer to the HPS or HP+ bit more street friendly. simliar bite to panthers but lower temps, not recommended for road courses.
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What is the english word a third party's substitute part for a "original teile" part? Weel, I bought such brake disks and Ferodo pads. Works just fine during track day.
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I've got Zimmerman rotors that the pravious owner installed, but the pads he put on have no bite at all. I keep hearing great things about EBC greenstuff pads, anyone tried them? I test drove an E30 325is with these, and they were more or less amazing, but I don't know how they would do on the track.
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I've got Zimmerman rotors that the pravious owner installed, but the pads he put on have no bite at all. I keep hearing great things about EBC greenstuff pads, anyone tried them? I test drove an E30 325is with these, and they were more or less amazing, but I don't know how they would do on the track.
The EBC greenstuff are autox pads at best. Not the best for track days. The earlier compound has been known to eat rotors but I believe they have changed their compound since. Dusting is pretty moderate as well. There are better choices for the money out there imo.
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The EBC greenstuff are autox pads at best. Not the best for track days. The earlier compound has been known to eat rotors but I believe they have changed their compound since. Dusting is pretty moderate as well. There are better choices for the money out there imo.
Yeah they are overpriced for the performance (autox is even iffy, if your a left foot brake guy you could easily overheat them), they also don't last very long.
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Good to know, thanks for the info.
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What is the english word a third party's substitute part for a "original teile" part? Weel, I bought such brake disks and Ferodo pads. Works just fine during track day.
OE
Original equipment
Question everyone...
What is the difference between the ATE power disks and ATE Premium one?
Also u think the Hawk HT-10 is overkill for autoX? seeing that they (From reading other posts) need a higher temperature to be used to the full potential. and when your autoxing that is hard braking, but the pads wont heat up fully till the first few stops.
Otherwise i am probably in the next week gonna order Hawk HP+ w/ either ate premieum one or powerslots with HPS in the read with probably brembo blanks.
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Also u think the Hawk HT-10 is overkill for autoX? seeing that they (From reading other posts) need a higher temperature to be used to the full potential. and when your autoxing that is hard braking, but the pads wont heat up fully till the first few stops.
Yes, overkill. I've personally never tried them for autocrossing, but my guess is that they would likely NEVER get up to temp.
There might be a better choice out there, I haven't tried Carbotech and a lot of people swear by them, but I've been using Hawk HP+ for years now because they grip well enough cold, fine for the street, are perfect for autocrossing, and hold up just fine for track days. Dust isn't too bad or corrosive, good lifetime, never had one break down or otherwise get damaged by a driver school weekend. Yes, they squeal a little. I'm honestly so used to it that I miss it on other cars. :)
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I don't mind the squeal, i have heard good about carbotech also, but i know a lot of people that swear by HP+....
I dunno i think im going to go
Front:
-SS Lines (Any preferences)
-Hawk HP+
-Powerslots
Rear:
-SS Lines
-Hawk HPS
-Brembo OEM
Filled with Motul 600
Any Critiques?
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I don't mind the squeal, i have heard good about carbotech also, but i know a lot of people that swear by HP+....
I dunno i think im going to go
Front:
-SS Lines (Any preferences)
-Hawk HP+
-Powerslots
Rear:
-SS Lines
-Hawk HPS
-Brembo OEM
Filled with Motul 600
Any Critiques?
Well honestly I think SS lines unless you need to replace the rubber is worthless. I never have noticed a major increase in feel at all. Think most people only notice this because they haven't ever flushed the fluid out of the system. But if you want to refresh stuff then the cost isn't really any more then rubber.
As far as rotors the $10 cheapies are just as good as anything else, unless you like the looks of the slots/drilled stuff they offer nearly zero performance benifit and are weaker.
If your really into AutoX I think the carbotech pathner+ is a better pad then the Hawk having run both. Tho the Panther is a bit more agressive and without riding the brakes for a while up to start you'll have only stock stopping power until about 1/2 way thru course or so. But once above 250F they rock. I will admit the noises they make on the freeway can be enough to drive you crazy. I tend to sometimes ride the brakes every once and a while to get them to shutup. They also have to be installed on fresh rotors, can't bed in with other material on there. They also require proper bedding.
Motul 600 is good. ATE Super Blue is almost the same and cheaper.
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The Hawk HT-10 is about like what a Panther+ is. But the panther works from 250-1300 so it kicks in a bit earlier. You can easily get them up to temp if your aggressive enough. I find that many people that autocross don't brake nearly enough, or when they do its soft and for too long. After ever run I take my rotors are blue, it means I'm braking effectively :)
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Oh i brake Hard!!! lol
anyway i may have to try out that panther+ and i am going to replace with SS lines just casue everything is pretty much stock on the brakes and i now have none lol! after 1 hard autox, my brakes are gone and i want to upgrade with good brakes w/o going with Massive Brakes for now.
I need everything to be able to keep up with my suspension.... my tires sure dont...
Thanks guys!
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Just remember with the Motul 600 is they tend to collect more moisture than others so you will probably need to perform more frequent brake fluid flushes.
Brembo blanks are fine but in my experience, there can be a difference between the cheaper $20 Autozone rotors for example and something like Brembo or other name brand rotor. The ones made in Taiwan/China from cheaper brands tend to use inferior metalury which might be fine for the avg sane driving but will have a hard time lasting at a track event. Autocross would probably be fine but don't try a track event with these.
SS lines are like strut bars and can open the usual can of worms so I'll leave it at that.
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I don't think Motel 600 collects any more then normal DOT3/4/5.1. All brake fluid regardless should be flushed ever 2 years no matter what, more if you get a lot of heat in it.
As for cheap rotors not being good for track duty, I don't think its a problem. I get the cheap ones from RockAuto and have taken to MidOhio and lots of AutoX abuse. If they are true they should be fine. Obviously one should be checking them over after hard track events. And they are much cheaper if you do wear them out a bit earlier. you can also send them out for cyrotreatment for pretty cheap, extends life about 3 times. Honestly I put more abuse on my rotors at my autocross events then I did at the track event I went to. On the track they actually get a chance to cool off a bit between corners.
The Massive Brakes package is very nice, but serious overkill for AutoX. If you were doing heavy track days I'd say its worth looking into not for the increase in braking power, pads can do that, but the extra heat elimination factor of larger and thicker rotors.
I highly recommend the Panther+ if you want max autox stopping power, but they also make a Bobcat compound, works at lower temp range, don't know if its approved for anything more then a light driver's school event, but its suppose to dust a lot less and be pretty much noise free (at least while not braking). I haven't used them, but know a Subie WRX guy that likes them.
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The EBC greenstuff are autox pads at best. Not the best for track days. The earlier compound has been known to eat rotors but I believe they have changed their compound since. Dusting is pretty moderate as well. There are better choices for the money out there imo.
That's not my experience. I've done about 500 track miles on Greenstuff and stock rotors. I've never had fade but they can get very noisy. One trick is to brake 100%, never feather them.
Also, Ove Kvam who is probably the world's premier Autocrosser of E30 318is cars would recommend them, even for the Ring!
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That's not my experience. I've done about 500 track miles on Greenstuff and stock rotors. I've never had fade but they can get very noisy. One trick is to brake 100%, never feather them.
Also, Ove Kvam who is probably the world's premier Autocrosser of E30 318is cars would recommend them, even for the Ring!
Maybe newer compound as I've mentioned?
As for rotors, I'm not saying the cheaper rotors won't perform any different at the tracks. I'm just saying the metalurgy in them doesn't always allow them to last as long when doing track events(also dependent on the pad compound). My friend got 8 track events from Brembos vs. 4 track events with Autozone rotors before wearing down to minimum thickness.
IMO, Motul is good if you can get it but a bit overkill on these kinds of cars. I agree on the ATE as they represent a really good value in performance brake fluids.
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I plan on tracking my car soon Heartland Park and mid ohio are the closest that i can think of.
thanks guys i have been looking for a brake thread for a while and i ahve found it!
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As for rotors, I'm not saying the cheaper rotors won't perform any different at the tracks. I'm just saying the metalurgy in them doesn't always allow them to last as long when doing track events(also dependent on the pad compound). My friend got 8 track events from Brembos vs. 4 track events with Autozone rotors before wearing down to minimum thickness.
My stock discs are made by Brembo.
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I plan on tracking my car soon Heartland Park and mid ohio are the closest that i can think of.
thanks guys i have been looking for a brake thread for a while and i ahve found it!
Mid Ohio is pimp. Of course I've only had about 30 minutes of time on it before I blew up my car at the enterance to the Esse last year, but it was worth it :)