M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => General Topics => Topic started by: flypenfly on February 12, 2007, 04:19:16 PM
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Just got a new to me 318is at 213k miles. It's in good shape for it's miles with valve adjustments, radiator, timing chain, guides, etc, all done.
I was just curious, do all 318is come with a LSD?
What fluids should I be using for the 5 speed and differential?
I checked Bavauto and Turner but am just confused what I should be using, I live in Socal.
I was planning to seafoam the car sometime soon too.
Is going to a synthetic oil not a good idea on this car?
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no they did not all come with LSD, it was one of the few options.
People swear by redline fluids, but I just used standard 75w 90 gear oil in my diff.
congrats on the car and good luck
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for your tranny i would use Redline MTL and 75w90 like above poster said.
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Thanks guys, I also have a E46 M3 Convertible and while totally different cars, they both put giant smiles on my face.
Looks like I need to do the exhaust because it's a weird dinky mom and pop's job. Any recommendations? I can't really seem to find anything for the 318is, only 325's.
How can I tell if I have a LSD? The diff looks like it has fins on it.
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http://m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2044
exhaust.
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Hmmm... anything a bit more economical? This is going to be mostly just a commuter car for me with maybe a few auto-x thrown in.
Also, where can I get clips for the airbox?
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Welcome!
Many of the topics that have been brought up have been discussed previously. You'll find the search option to be a great resource.
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Cheap exhaust upgrade, maybe read this...
http://bmwquebec.ca/bmw/technical/e30_318is_exhaust_mod (http://bmwquebec.ca/bmw/technical/e30_318is_exhaust_mod)
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Thanks for the article. Good read, where can I order that part?
I'm a little worried the pipe from the cat to the muffler seems extremely narrow. I think whatever was put on is pretty pathetically small.
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i would suggest removing the resonator and getting a magnaflow muffler. if you want it louder, get a high flow cat..
for your tranny use redline ATF. our trannys actually call for ATF oil. and use redline 75w90 gear oil WITH that additive for your LSD.
for seafoam...
http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=388
and how many miles are on your car? only use synthetics if theyve been used in your car before.
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219k! But it looks like somewhere in it's life within the last 30k miles it's seen major major work done. New radiators, pumps, hoses, refurbished head, timing chain, tensioner, guides, valve job, oil pan, gaskets, spark plugs, etc.
So I shouldn't use the synthetic huh? I was just going to use the BMW 5w30 synthetic from Turner but I guess I could just dyno oil instead if it's a bad idea to go ahead with the synth.
I was planning on doing these items (well someone else is doing the labor, a mechanic at BMW)
From Turner:
Ate Type 200 Racing Brake Fluid (liter)
$9.95 $19.90
E30 318i/325 1983-91 FRONT PBR Metal Master Brake Pads (set)
$38.95 $38.95
Red Line Water Wetter Heat Transfer Agent
$6.95 $6.95
E30 Stock Rear Subframe Mounts (pair)
$48.00 $48.00
E30 Shifter Boot
$14.90 $14.90
BMW 3/5/6/7-series 1984-94 Fuel Filter
$14.95 $14.95
E28 528e, E30 318i/325e/i, 850i, 750i, 525i 1989-90, E36 318i Replacement Air Filter
$8.95 $8.95
BMW 5W-30 Longlife Synthetic Motor Oil
$6.19 $30.95
E28, E30 325e/i REAR PBR/Metal Master Street Pads (set)
$29.95 $29.95
E30 Front Brake Pad Wear Sensor (not M3)
$5.25 $5.25
E30 M3 Front, E30 Rear Pad Wear Sensor
OEM Control arm bushings
Eccentric Trailing Arm Bushings
But I guess I'll take out the Motor Oil and add the ATF fluid for the transmission. But from my research, it seems ATF is great for cold starts but for overall life of the transmission, using MTL90 is better if you're easy on it when it's cold. Advice?
I don't know if I have an LSD or not but I'll ask my friend to do the spin the wheel trick to see what happens. THen I'll order the fluids for that.
I plan to get offset M3 bushings later on with new control arms if I need it. Am I forgetting anything else?
As for the exhaust, I'm not looking for louder or performance. I just want to replace the jury rigged item on there.
How's this from Bav Auto? Only $200 or so + shipping.
(http://www.bavauto.com/assets/imglib500/18101723240.jpg)
Description: Includes all pipes from the catalytic converter to the tail pipe. Single piece, welded construction. Use Bosal chrome exhaust tip.
Part Number: 18 10 1 723 240
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Oh, I also need to pick up some tires pretty soon too. The ones on there are a bit flaky even though it has good tread. Something called Federal or whatever. The car will see auto-x duty and maybe some light track duty as well. I'm thinking some form of Falkens.
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That bavauto exhaust, is it the stock one? Do you remember what brand it was?
For the control arm bushings, I'd go with the E30 M3 eccentric ones. The OEM E30 ones arn't solid and won't last you as long as the M3 ones.
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On my car the "Use ATF Only" sticker is still near the transmission, so thats what I use in mine. From what I was told I should stay with ATF otherwise certain parts within the transmission won't get lubricated properly if I used a different oil. I'm unsure if this also applies to your vehicle or not. Check under your car for a round orange sticker saying something like that. Also reference any manual you may have.
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i've been using Redline MTL for the past 11k miles and the tranny still shifts the just as nicely as the first day that i changed the oil.
I should be getting my 2 qts and a qt of 75w90 in the mail either today or tomorrow.
Everyone has recommended Redline MTL to me for as long as I can remember.
I guess to each his own.
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Everyone's going to give you different opinions on fluids and mods.
But I will caution you from using Seafoam. I've used it on 3 high mileage cars in the past with less than optimal results. Sometimes the carbon deposits in certain areas of the engine is what keeps the engine "tight". You can experience loss in compression, gas mileage, defective sensors, etc from doing Seafoam. On the other hand, I've known people that had decent results. It depends on the state of the motor and whether you really "need" to do it or not. I would just try running some Chevron Techron through it for a couple gas tanks first. That should at least take off the carbon deposits from the valves if you have any.
As for synthetic, visually check for any existing leaks and loose bolts. If you find none, then feel free to try synthetic but be prepared to switch back if you start finding leaks or odd noises from bolts loosening up in the motor.
Do you personally know or trust the work that's been done to the motor? The reason why I ask is I bought a car with a newer head on it and it was done all wrong with the bolts not torqued correctly. Overtime, guess what happened? :rolleyes:
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I think I'm not going to risk it and just use regular dino oil and not use Seafoam...
The thing is, I just found the car I actually wanted to buy so I may be forced to sell this car just as I freaking bought it right now! (if the deal works out)
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I use Mobil 1 in my car, (not knowing there ws a debate over synthetic use in older cars) and no leaks to date in my 150k car.
get Azenis! http://www.vulcantire.com
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"I don't know if I have an LSD or not but I'll ask my friend to do the spin the wheel trick to see what happens. THen I'll order the fluids for that."
When I jacked my car up I did the wheel spin and my tires turned in opposite directions . When I was on the street and dropped the clutch both tires layed about 10 feet of rubber side by side. LSD???:confused:
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Hmmm... anything a bit more economical? This is going to be mostly just a commuter car for me with maybe a few auto-x thrown in.
Also, where can I get clips for the airbox?
You can have that old one that's next to the shiny new one if you come to MD and get it! :)
And that old one is the one from Bavauto, installed ~40k miles ago.
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haha aww :(
I'm wondering if the $200 bav auto one is any decent? I wonder how much a muffler shop would want to put that on there.
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dont use synthetic. i dont know why people like to use it over crude oil. our motors where not made for it, even if it doesnt leak. the M42 does not really have close tolerances so internally you will be wearing parts out (rod/crank bearings, etc).
use 10-30 for cold climates and 15-40 for warmer climates.
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dont use synthetic. i dont know why people like to use it over crude oil.
Only because it's better at doing the job? :confused: Sure, for street use, a regularly changed dino oil with decent additives package will do just fine. But under high stress (track use) or if going for 10k+ oil drain intervals on the street, synthetics are superior. No question about it.
And when it comes to trans and diff, the arguement is even stronger. As long as you leave it in, and as little as you use, the extra cost is negligible. Synthetics stay stable over a larger range of temperatures and reduce friction for less driveline loss.