M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => General Topics => Topic started by: magnum2066 on January 09, 2007, 07:50:59 PM
-
So I thought I would replace the factory radio with something a tad more modern. (Click Me) (http://www.sony.co.uk/view/ShowProduct.action?product=CDX-GT300&site=odw_en_GB&pageType=Overview&category=ICA+CD+Tuners) But I wound up finding out that I would need to lay down another $115 for labor and speaker wire because my 318is (91') was grounded differently. The only thing to the audio so far was replace all the 5 1/4 speakers with some Alpines. My question here is does it sound right that I would need to rewire the car first before I can install the new deck?
Secondly, my SRS light has always blinked. But it just stayed on the entire day, is there something wrong?
Third, I need to replace all my brake pads. The "Brake Lining" light is on and I read somewhere that when replacing the pads I also need to replace the sensor. Am I able to just use a service reset tool instead?
There are a bunch more but I can't remember them off the top of my head. Thanks in advance!
-
So I thought I would replace the factory radio with something a tad more modern. (Click Me) (http://www.sony.co.uk/view/ShowProduct.action?product=CDX-GT300&site=odw_en_GB&pageType=Overview&category=ICA+CD+Tuners) But I wound up finding out that I would need to lay down another $115 for labor and speaker wire because my 318is (91') was grounded differently.
No this doesn't sound right. Your BMW is a 12v Negative ground like every other car on the road today.
-
There are two brake pad sensors; one in the left front and one in the right rear. They are super easy to install and fairly inexpensive. You will definitely need to replace those if you want the light to turn off.
The SRS light sounds like a good reason to get an mtech steering wheel and ditch the air bag =]
-
If your car has the premium sound package, yes you will have to run new wires. In this system, the head unit has a separate amp in the trunk. The wires that exit the head unit run to the amp, not the speakers. I just went through this myself. If you have the standard sound package, this is not required, as the wires run directly to the speakers.
-
That headunit is the same thing as mine I think. Mine came with a remote control, does that one too?
-
So I thought I would replace the factory radio with something a tad more modern. (Click Me) (http://www.sony.co.uk/view/ShowProduct.action?product=CDX-GT300&site=odw_en_GB&pageType=Overview&category=ICA+CD+Tuners) But I wound up finding out that I would need to lay down another $115 for labor and speaker wire because my 318is (91') was grounded differently. The only thing to the audio so far was replace all the 5 1/4 speakers with some Alpines. My question here is does it sound right that I would need to rewire the car first before I can install the new deck?
Secondly, my SRS light has always blinked. But it just stayed on the entire day, is there something wrong?
Third, I need to replace all my brake pads. The "Brake Lining" light is on and I read somewhere that when replacing the pads I also need to replace the sensor. Am I able to just use a service reset tool instead?
There are a bunch more but I can't remember them off the top of my head. Thanks in advance!
easy search ........speaker wiring
http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1719
As far as "brake warning light" I just disconnected the bulb from behind the cluster so as to save a few bucks .You have to replace the sensors every time you change pads .
No knowledge of the SRS light .That sony is a good head unit , do the lights change colors to match ?
good luck
-
That sony is a good head unit , do the lights change colors to match ?
good luck
On mine they do. They have red and green backlights, I am on red as to match the rest of the car.
-
You don't need to rewire the entire car to run aftermarket radio.
If all your sensors and airbag is working right, you might just have to clear the SRS code from the ABS computer.
You can reuse brake sensors if they are not broken or you can just short out the two wires and not have any brake sensor light issues. Just check your brake pads periodically, which I'm sure most of us enthusiasts do anyways.
-
You don't need to rewire the entire car to run aftermarket radio.
If all your sensors and airbag is working right, you might just have to clear the SRS code from the ABS computer.
You can reuse brake sensors if they are not broken or you can just short out the two wires and not have any brake sensor light issues. Just check your brake pads periodically, which I'm sure most of us enthusiasts do anyways.
you do if it has the factor amp like someone previously said. if it doesn't then your ok.
-
I went to Circuit City and the guy there was familiar with the E30 premium type sound system. He cut the wires in the trunk and soldered them together bypassing the amp. No need to run new wires all over the place.
-
I had a problem with my constant 12 volt they had to install one in my car when i got the new headunit(s) other wise id lose all the presets and the memory.
Not sure if that is wout your talking about but that is what happened to me.
-
I went to Circuit City and the guy there was familiar with the E30 premium type sound system. He cut the wires in the trunk and soldered them together bypassing the amp. No need to run new wires all over the place.
if you want decent sound quality you would run new wires, unless the only advantage you bought a deck for was a cd player...
-
Wow I missed a ton of replies...
When the guys at Best Buy did a "speaker pop" test, the speakers didn't make the popping sound it was supposed to... Which tells me the one I have has a premium sound system. Since I'm quite unfamiliar with BMWs in general I'm assuming the amp is just forward of the battery in the trunk? As far as I know the red light around the knob matches the red backlight (duh) of my gauges.
I suppose I will replace the sensors when I get out of my financial hurtbag I am in this month, I was just curious if I was able to just reset the sensor instead of a replacement.
As for the SRS light it started blinking again so I'll pass it off as a stupid issue. (The airbag better not blow up in my face like that damn Cadillac, its a world of pain in a bag.)
Thanks for the replies so far! It has been a ton of help to me!
-
Glad to see this thread.
1) Is there an existing OEM later model headunit w/ CD player that is a direct fit into the E30? My current headunit is a cassette player with the "touch" slider. I would rather have an OEM headunit.
2) Additionally, I installed the door frame tweeters and connected the wires that were already there but no sound. Any thoughts?
I also installed the premium rear (single tweeter type) in the rear parcel shelf. Those work. I will post some pics of the rear parcel install.
-
if you want decent sound quality you would run new wires, unless the only advantage you bought a deck for was a cd player...
I disagree with this as new wires are only really needed if the current one's are corroded or if you'll be running a high powered system. That is my $.02. I don't want to open a can of worms as discussed many times on the debate in the past on whether one can notice a sound difference from $5 rca cables vs. $200 rca cables.
As for FL318is,
1. You can use the later E36 decks with a little bit of modding. If you want an OEM look, a good alternative is the older Clarion decks. If you're a hardcore audiophile then I recommend the older Nakamichi decks as the newer one's have had some issues so far.
2. The door frame tweeter wires exists but might not be connected in the door itself. Take off the door panel to check. You can also check the kickpanel behind the speaker as well. Some po's tend to hack up the whole harness so you might have a broken connection in either places.
-
I disagree with this as new wires are only really needed if the current one's are corroded or if you'll be running a high powered system. That is my $.02. I don't want to open a can of worms as discussed many times on the debate in the past on whether one can notice a sound difference from $5 rca cables vs. $200 rca cables.
As for FL318is,
1. You can use the later E36 decks with a little bit of modding. If you want an OEM look, a good alternative is the older Clarion decks. If you're a hardcore audiophile then I recommend the older Nakamichi decks as the newer one's have had some issues so far.
2. The door frame tweeter wires exists but might not be connected in the door itself. Take off the door panel to check. You can also check the kickpanel behind the speaker as well. Some po's tend to hack up the whole harness so you might have a broken connection in either places.
like i said, if the only reason your installing a deck is for a CD player, rather then a high quality system by all means keep the old wires. but if your installing a new amp then new wires are going to make a difference. I'm not saying go out and buy 200$ RCA's and 100$ for speaker wire, but any speaker requiring an amp is going to need a thicker gauge wire then provided stock.
-
like i said, if the only reason your installing a deck is for a CD player, rather then a high quality system by all means keep the old wires. but if your installing a new amp then new wires are going to make a difference. I'm not saying go out and buy 200$ RCA's and 100$ for speaker wire, but any speaker requiring an amp is going to need a thicker gauge wire then provided stock.
Please explain. I bet if you did a a/b blind test with moderate power, you wouldn't be able to tell the difference. I won't debate though. Everyone should do the test based on their system and do what works for them. I don't try to talk people out of doing things that they feel comfortable with and 'works' for them.
-
Please explain. I bet if you did a a/b blind test with moderate power, you wouldn't be able to tell the difference. I won't debate though. Everyone should do the test based on their system and do what works for them. I don't try to talk people out of doing things that they feel comfortable with and 'works' for them.
my old wiring was toast, so yes it would make a difference:cool: its personal prefrence like you said, but if you like loud music thats clear it makes a difference. i'm not going to argue this any further tho cause i don't much care, and i'm kind of over the whole sound system phase of my life..
-
I know I already said that I'm planning on getting new sensors but I am still curious if I could save a few bucks and use the service reset tool? Or doesn't it reset THAT part of the puter?
By the way, 40-60f below freezing is awfully hard on a car... Now I remember why North Dakota sucks. 110 degree summers and close to -40 to -60 degree winters.
-
i'm kind of over the whole sound system phase of my life..
I was over this whole thing back in 1986 when I got the very first Alpine CD player. Fixed deck and since the circuits were so crowded back then, they had to run a wire to a separate tuner box since they couldn't fit it in. LOL :D
-
You can bypass the rear amp and use the old wires. Not very difficult to do. Just remove the amp and splice the wires together.
No new wires needed, no re-wiring.
As for brakes, just because the light is on, does not mean your pads are worn, someone may have not put in new wires when doing the pad replacement last time. Mien were worn and I just spliced the wires together, as my pads did not have the proper attachment for them anyhow. This will turn off the light.
Check your pads though and if you bypass the wires, you will need to manual check them after you replace them.
-
If I splice my pad sensors will they still work after I replace them at a later time? (The next time I replace the pads.)
From what I can see the stock wiring seems to be in okay condition, they should be fine with having a max of 175 watts going through them?
-
On the pad sensors, you are just taking the two wires and connecting them together to complete the circuit, how you connect them is up to you. You can use a wire nut, barrel clamp, solder or whatever. To connect the sensor back in at a later time is to simply brake the connection and wire the sensor back in.
As for the stock wiring for audio, 175W is fine. I'm pushing 600W RMS on the stock wiring with 12AWG wiring to the sub and another 1000W feeding that. I read somewhere that the stock wiring needed to be replaced but I hooked it all up anyway and found no problems. I am going to upgrade the wiring in the future but it's not a must, more of a personal preference.
-
Just wire it together, a few inches up the wire is a connector which is where the new one connects, eliminating any evidence of what you did.
-
Awesome, I'll be doing that next weekend.
Since I'm rather dimwitted when it comes to electrical work I have no idea what wires I splice together to bypass the amp. Is it something like Red to red, blue/white to blue/white?
(I used this write-up for referance: http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=403)
-
Awesome, I'll be doing that next weekend.
Since I'm rather dimwitted when it comes to electrical work I have no idea what wires I splice together to bypass the amp. Is it something like Red to red, blue/white to blue/white?
(I used this write-up for referance: http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=403)
Should.
-
One thing I failed to mention is that I keep on hearing three beeps whenever I'm driving. Since the brake lining light is on I've assumed that is what its referring to but I'm not entirely sure. After looking in the manual I still couldn't find what the beeps meant. Anyone have an idea?
-
That is most likely your temperature/digital clock unit. It will beep when the outdoor temperature reaches 38F or lower as an alert for potentially icy driving surfaces. Mine rarely beeps anymore but it will automatically flash the outside temp when these conditions are met. Others can correct me if I don't have all of this quite right.
-
No this doesn't sound right. Your BMW is a 12v Negative ground like every other car on the road today.
I had a 1962 Triumph TR3A that was positive ground. But then it's a garage queen and not on the road so you may be right.
-
That is most likely your temperature/digital clock unit. It will beep when the outdoor temperature reaches 38F or lower as an alert for potentially icy driving surfaces. Mine rarely beeps anymore but it will automatically flash the outside temp when these conditions are met. Others can correct me if I don't have all of this quite right.
Well then it does a great job of calculating in windchill. :rolleyes: Hasn't been colder than -22 but with wind chill it has been colder than -60 up here in ND a few days back. Thanks for putting a stop to me going beep crazy. :D
As for maintenance, its going to have to wait for the brakes and the sort because my cousin is expecting another young'un any day now... Suppose I have to bring it to a car shop now. (My wallet is actually starting to cry.)
-
The clock/temp only dings one time for cold weather.
-
It's been awhile since I've heard it, so you are probably right on that Sheepdog.
-
The clock/temp only dings one time for cold weather.
If you've pressed memo then it will ding once an hour . Look at the display and if it says "me" then your memo button has been pressed and I believe it will ding around the top of every hour. Simply press memo again to disable this feature .
-
This gets asked about quite often .Can we sticky this somehow ?
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r73/bogeyman700/obcfunctions.jpg)