M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => Swaps, Turbos, Buildups => Topic started by: lahondal@hotmail.es on February 18, 2014, 05:05:08 PM
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Hi!
I´m building a E36 Compact rally car and i´m planning to keep the "lighter" M42 engine but adding a turbo to reach 230-250hp at the fly, with the minimum possible turbo lag. This will be a "point-and-shot" car.
The plan is run stock compression and 10psi boost. Custom header, custom manifold, T28/TD05 turbo, megasquirt management and other minor bits.
This is the progress so far:
(http://i44.tinypic.com/2zgadxj.jpg)
(http://i42.tinypic.com/14nnsk.jpg)
(http://i39.tinypic.com/2yv9h12.jpg)
(http://i58.tinypic.com/2wekuhi.jpg)
(http://i60.tinypic.com/20gzevt.jpg)
(http://i62.tinypic.com/2zq5shf.jpg)
(http://i59.tinypic.com/j7sz1l.jpg)
(http://i62.tinypic.com/14tc3fd.jpg)
(http://i61.tinypic.com/s4mex1.jpg)
(http://i62.tinypic.com/24qqupx.jpg)
At the moment I´m in this point:
(http://i59.tinypic.com/wchhud.jpg)
Now some turbo pics:
(http://www.fluidmotorunion.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/exhalation1-625x415.jpg)
(http://www.fluidmotorunion.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/exhalation3-625x415.jpg)
I have a question, do you think is enough clearance between the engine and the turret to do something like this, modding a M50 turbo manifold, which I already have?
Thanks!
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Cool build! I do not envy you stitch welding all the seams like that :)
What made you decide to go with a top mount manifold for the turbo? The E36 chassis works much better as a bottom mount setup.
Either way, on an E36 the clearance between shock tower/turret and manifold will be small. You can gain more clearance by not having your merge collector at the shock tower like that, move it infront of the tower.
Also, for fastest spool, a small tubular log manifold has the best results and its more compact! Perfect for your situation.
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Cool build. Love the StitCh welding and cage work. What are your engine plans to go forced induction?
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I have 2 plans with the headers:
-1, chop the last 2 cylinders of the m50 manifold, and cut the stock t3 flange of the headers to add a tube to sort the clearance issue with the front tower.
-2, chop the FIRST 2 cilinders and the merge of the manifold too, keeping the 3 last cylinders, and merge the fourth like the other 3 with the same principle. And run the "log tube" wherever I need.
The problem with the second plan is the diameter of the log tube. I´m afraid of the flow of this setup. I want a fast spool, but I dont want a 4500limit engine indeed.
Here the M42 is a cheap engine, aaaaalll people ditch it for M50 swaps. So the plan is keeping stock compression and crank up boost. If the engine blows....replace it with a fresh one with an original headgasket and m3 bolts. And crank up the boost again.
Thanks!
Thanks!
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I think this pics and measurements can be useful for some people.
(http://i62.tinypic.com/73ld2o.jpg)
(http://i58.tinypic.com/29avafd.jpg)
Thanks!
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This exactly what im currently running in to with my m42 turbo build. what im using is an ebay m50 manifold. I chopped the back 2 cylinders off and I plan in chopping the t3 flange off weld an extension pipe with the appropriate angle to clear the cylinder head/vc and the strut tower then weld my t3 back on mount turbo, run down pipe exc.. similar to the pic of the turbo you posted. I have an e30 chassis tho. I wonder if the clearance between the strut tower and head are close to the same. hum...
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Other car parts have all my time and money, so the turbo engine needs to wait at the moment. Will be built next season.
(http://i60.tinypic.com/1175k5g.jpg)
(http://i60.tinypic.com/t5mvth.jpg)
(http://i59.tinypic.com/jg4j14.jpg)
(http://i57.tinypic.com/jv0l5t.jpg)
(http://i58.tinypic.com/246qc75.jpg)
(http://i61.tinypic.com/2v80tg5.jpg)
(http://i57.tinypic.com/2dkmsue.jpg)
(http://i62.tinypic.com/21bit1h.jpg)
(http://i59.tinypic.com/dcd6zc.jpg)
(http://i58.tinypic.com/iljcqv.jpg)
(http://i58.tinypic.com/20pugps.jpg)
(http://i60.tinypic.com/246p11d.jpg)
(http://i60.tinypic.com/11r7odc.jpg)
(http://i57.tinypic.com/2ltrnzo.jpg)
(http://i61.tinypic.com/35ak4ye.jpg)
(http://i57.tinypic.com/20ii9gh.jpg)
(http://i61.tinypic.com/2hmle8w.jpg)
(http://i62.tinypic.com/149qkqb.jpg)
(http://i59.tinypic.com/ehyeyv.jpg)
(http://i57.tinypic.com/v5js04.jpg)
(http://i62.tinypic.com/175ufk.jpg)
And thats all, the wiring and the bloody ews chip are killing me, but will beat it in the end!
Hope you like it!!!
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More progress!
Lights control panel, and fuses.
(http://i61.tinypic.com/302w685.jpg)
Finished dashboard and seats fitted.
(http://i61.tinypic.com/260397a.jpg)
The rear needs some work...
(http://i62.tinypic.com/30aulpz.jpg)
And new wheels!!
(http://i62.tinypic.com/1zb8lrc.jpg)
Thanks!
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Nice update! Are the wheels Compos?
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Nope, are AZEV type A without caps ;)
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I see that now. Since they are white they look like MO5s!
Very good look!
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I like the Ectoplasm paint job.
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Great build! Cant say I ever recommend going "cheap" but build looks great
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I mean cheap is not the correct word, cheaper is better. I think spending 800euro in a turbo header which cost 50euro in stainless steel is not the best deal for the buyer.
In the past i made and sold many adjustable control arms for peugeot which in a shop can cost up to 900euro, and i was selling the pair for 220euro, and i still had a good profit.
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New windows!
(http://i60.tinypic.com/k2k1fl.jpg)
I´m having problems with the steering.
Yesterday trying the car, I took a 90º left corner and the booty came out, but much more than other times. I manage to control the car turning to the right but when I wanted to turn the steering wheel quickly back i felt like i'm fighting with the wheels and with the power steering at the same time.
If I turn slow, the steering is reasonably soft, but when I steer quickly it only let me turn at a certain speed, further than that I have to turn REALLY hard.
So i think the problem is not the power steering force, is the SPEED at the powersteering system can turn.
Start thinking on get away the quickener (and perhaps save it for another forest spec car) and fit a Z3 rack.
So yesterday I tweaked the steering pump.
Taken apart of the car:
(http://i62.tinypic.com/fnguc1.jpg)
Dismantled:
(http://i57.tinypic.com/xft2f6.jpg)
And this is the flow/pressure control valve. I wanted to raise the pressure to a maximum and try the steering for seeing if it makes any change on the feel. So I removed all the shims of the relief valve, which sits in the interior of the FCV, and I streched the big spring too. (not in the pic)
(http://i62.tinypic.com/igg75l.jpg)
Then, refitted the pump, when I´m trying to flush the system, lock to lock, on the 6º movement the pressure line went bang and gave all the engine bay a beautiful layer of steering fluid....s***...
The bad news are that I felt no change on the steering even with that superhigh pressure until the hose exploded.
So now i´m learning how to increase flow instead of pressure, and try again.
Anyone tried this? Or have SPEED problems on the steering to give me a clue for solving?
Thanks!
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I have never had issues with my steering, although I am on high speed tracks when I am pushing it. I believe you are on much lower speed tracks.
What are your alignment settings? Toe settings make a huge difference for turn in, castor makes a difference resisting your turn force.
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I have fitted a steering quickener 2:1 that doubles the turns I enter on the steering wheel, before this, the steering never have a problem.
However the car was sitted on the garage for 11 months and when the engine was started again the steering system was empty of fluid. 8 or 9 times fired up without liquid.
But I think the problem is the torque i apply now on the wheel. With the quickener should be the half now, and the steering rack maybe didn´t see enough torque to make steering boost.
I´m thinking to weakening the torsion bar of the rack, but i dont know how much much should quit with a lathe...
Sorry for my english, i dont know if I'm writing in the correct form, i hope you can understand it. Thanks!
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After the PAS disaster....
(i modified the steering pump for pressure and a steering hose gone bang...no way the steering system can take the steering turns with the quickener and its becames VERY hard to turn)....
...i decided to change the plan on fitting the steering multiplier, as i think that the problem is not the steering effort, is the steering SPEED.
So i bought a corsa C EPAS and I fitted it before the steering multiplier, so the PAS will work at the steering wheel speed, and not the x2 speed that gives the multiplier.
And thats the frankenstein column:
(http://i61.tinypic.com/2elay6w.jpg)
(http://i60.tinypic.com/mmar86.jpg)
(http://i61.tinypic.com/2nu4t5k.jpg)
(http://i62.tinypic.com/1zwz0bq.jpg)
I hope will try it in a few days, i will post the results....fingers crossed....